May 2024 and we're off to the North Island of New Zealand for a little over two weeks. We fly into Auckland and pick up a car to drive to the Bay of Island for a week at Paihia. After exploring that part of the world it's south to Rotorua, for another week, with a night along the way at Whangarei. The trip's completed with a night at Waitoma Caves on our way back to Auckland.
An uneventful flight from the Gold Coast to Auckland after friend Catherine dropped us off at the airport nice and early for our midday flight. Well, the flight was uneventful the boarding part not so much. Going through security my wallet disappeared from the tote tray. Caused a bit of concern until it turned up on the side of the conveyor belt. Must remember to put the wallet inside the carry-on bag in future. And that's not all!! Jill forgot she had a small pair of scissors in her pencil case. They of course were confiscated. Since we were there last, they've built a new international section for the terminal. A bit of a "rabbit warren" to negotiate but a fairly straightforward exercise through immigration etc that one has to suffer these days.
A nice cup of coffee while we waited for our flight but no gluten-free pastries etc.
On arrival at Auckland, we headed for the One desk to get a New Zealand sim card for Alex's phone. A pretty simple task these days as you just add an E-sim, which means you don't even have to take the Australian sim out of the phone.
Accommodation tonight is at the Pullman Hotel which is only a short walk from the terminal. Lots of building happening at the airport and the Pullman is quite new. Our room is near the top of the building and looks out over the airport. Amazingly we couldn't hear a sound - obviously well insulated as well as the double glazing. Dinner at the hotel tonight was fine and then a good night's sleep ready for the drive to Paihia in the Bay of Island tomorrow.
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Up nice and early this morning for a buffet breakfast at the Pullman before heading back to the airport and our hire car - the usual buffet that one can get anywhere but at least they had real coffee to go with it.
We booked the car through Europcar and were going to settle for a Kia Seltos but were "convinced" by the man at the desk to take a plug-in hybrid Kia Sorento as we would save considerably on fuel costs - an excellent idea in theory except there turned out to be nowhere that we could plug in "easily" in either Paihia or Rotarua so the plug-in bit didn't work out. Despite that it was a lovely car to drive and as a hybrid was pretty efficient - so no complaints.
Mind you, with all the building work happening at the airport we did have something to complain about. At the moment, the hire cars are about a 1km walk from the airport which was a bit of a pain with our luggage. Fortunately, we only have a single suitcase each.
It was a bit of a challenge getting out of the airport but once on the expressway, it was a straightforward drive north even if we did have to go through the centre of Auckland.
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At Maungaturoto we left the main road north and headed west as our intent was to run up the west coast as far as Omarere before turning east to Paihia.
We had thought about going through the Kauri Museum at Matakohe but as it was a long drive decided to push on for a walk to the top of Tokatoka Peak. Was probably a bad decision as the track was a bit wet and slippery and the climb quite steep - more of an issue coming down than going up. The outlook for the peak was pretty impressive all the same but we were a bit exhausted by the time we got down again. They take their biosecurity pretty seriously in New Zealand and at the base of the peak we came across the first of many "cleaning stations" where you are asked to cleanse your boots before proceeding.
From Omapera we headed east initially along the shores of Hokianga Harbour then through the forest to arrive at Piahia around 5.00pm. Our accommodation for the next week is Busby Manor Resort. A fairly basic spot just across the road from the beach. Room is quite adequate - a bit squishy but comfy with everything we need.
Off to Kerikeri (24km northwest of Paihai), this morning to their market, quite an extensive affair with a lot of it undercover. A bit of shopping and breakfast at a vegan Mexican Stall.
Kerikeri has a long and colourful history. The area was home ground for the fearsome Maori chief Hongi Hika, who terrorised many tribes throughout the North Island in the early 1800s. Yet he was kind to missionaries, allowing Samuel Marsden to establish New Zealand's second mission station here.
After the market, we visited the Stone Store, which dates back to 1832 and is New Zealand's oldest stone building. Designed by Wesleyan missionary John Hobbs and built by an ex-convict stonemason from New South Wales, the store was meant to house large quantities of wheat from the mission farm at Te Waimate. When the wheat failed, the building was used as a kauri gum trading store. It's built on a picturesque spot in the Kerikeri inlet which would have provided a safe anchorage for the shipping of the day.
“My mother on hearing that servants were virtually un-procurable said quite emphatically that without servants electricity was essential and she would not consider coming unless she was promised it”.
So what did George Alderton have to do? - set up a new company to meet the expectations of settlers' wives so that he could sell land.
Back to Kerikeri for some grocery shopping. A much bigger shopping centre here than in Paihia. Then, after a sushi lunch, we headed back to Busby Manor for a restful afternoon followed by a wander down to Paihia wharf for the sunset.
The plan today is to visit Ngawha Springs 40km west of Paihai to have a soak in the "healing properties of the thermal waters". But first, it was back to Kerikeri for their Sunday Farmers Market - a much smaller affair than yesterday and nothing for breakfast (apart from a single coffee stall). A Google search of 'best breakfast in Kerikeri ' saw us at The Village Café which was more than adequate - a nice spot in an alleyway off the main drag.
After breakfast, we drove some backroads to Kaikohe and then on to the Springs.
Ngawha Springs (Māori: Ngāwhā, Ngāwhā meaning "boiling spring"), managed by the Parahirahi Ngāwhā Waiariki Trust, reputedly have therapeutic, balneological properties for those who bathe in their waters as well as being the source of the steam used at the Ngawha geothermal field's power station. The complex has 16 public pools and 8 private pools and varies in temperature from the rather cool 32 °C to the extremely hot "Favourite" and "Doctor" of 41 °C. The complex was refurbished in 2020–21, including a new building with changing rooms, a café, ticket office, shop and rooms for health practitioners. We made use of the café with a cup of tea and a muffin before our allotted time came up.
It was drizzling while we were there and being Sunday, was quite crowded, which meant we were sharing the pools with quite a few others. the pool we spent most of our time in was at a very pleasant 37 °. Apart from being crowded it was an enjoyable experience and would, no doubt be even more so (and quieter) during the week.
We drove back to Paihai via Kawakawa where we hoped for something to eat as we had skipped lunch and discovered that not much is open in small New Zealand towns on a Sunday afternoon - sounds like Mullumbimby used to be 30 years ago - bliss.
Tonight we walked two doors down to JFC, a fish restaurant, for dinner. We both had snapper which was excellent.
Today we are booked for the 10am Hole in the Rock Cruise with Island Getaway Tours. The Bay of Islands is renowned as one of the most beautiful destinations on New Zealand’s North Island, with 144 islands dotted around the shore. This tour takes in some of the most impressive viewpoints in the area setting off from the pier at Paihia, so just a short walk from our accommodation at Busby Manor. It's been raining again overnight so let's hope it keeps away today.
The Hole in the Rock Island found just off Cape Brett (named "Piercy Island " by Captain Cook and Motu Kōkako by its Māori-language name) has great cultural significance to the Ngāpuhi iwi, and was historically associated with a range of sacred customary activities. Motu Kōkako was said to be the landing place of the canoe Tūnui-a-rangi before it went to Ngunguru and Whangarei.
The 18 m hole at sea level was created over centuries by wind and waves making it one of the most naturally beautiful sites in New Zealand. As the sea was fairly calm today we even got the opportunity to travel through the "hole" - quite impressive.
On leaving the island we came across what looked like a weird sea creature. It turned out to be a New Zealand Fur Seal lying in the water with his flipper in the air. They are quite common in these waters and on our way towards Urupukapuka Island, we passed a sea rock which was one of their resting spots. Looked like a good spot, without too much interruption from sightseeers.
From Otehei Bay it was back to the wharf at Paihai. Still raining
An early start this morning for the 230km drive to Cape Rēinga. Our plan was to head up Highway 1, the inland route and then return down the east coast with breakfast at Kaitaia on our way north. We did end up having breakfast in Kaitaia but it took a little longer than we planned. Just out of Mangamunka the Highway was closed for roadworks, something they seem to do in New Zealand. Rather than closing off a lane at a time, which is usual in Australia, they close the whole road and set up detours. Consequently, it was back to Mangamuka with a detour via the west coast to Kaitala. Was a pleasant drive even if it did add a few kilometres to the trip.
After breakfast we headed north along the Aupōuri Peninsula (only 10km wide), arriving at the Cape mid-morning.
Cape Rēinga is a rocky headland at the tip of the Peninsula. It is known to Māori as Te Rerenga Wairua – the departing place for the souls of the dead as they leave for the spiritual homeland of Hawaiki. While the cape is often thought to be the country’s northernmost tip, that distinction belongs to the Surville Cliffs, just north of North Cape.
Today we caught the ferry across to Russell (Māori name Kororāreka). Russell has always been a popular spot and has quite a history dating from the early 19th century. In the 1830s it was a lawless trading centre where whalers, seafarers and merchants mixed with adventurers, deserters and escaped convicts from Australia. In 1840 - 41 an area just south of Russell called Okiato became the first capital of New Zealand before being relocated to Auckland (and later to Wellington in 1862). Towering above the township is Maiki Hill, topped by a flagstaff. In 1844–45 its signal flagstaff was cut down by Māori four times in a protest against the government. The action led to war. In 1845, during this conflict, Kororāreka was attacked and many buildings were destroyed. Today it's a pretty peaceful spot and a popular tourist destination.
We caught the ferry from Paihia for the 30-minute trip across the bay. On arrival, we booked lunch at the Duke of Marlborough Hotel and had a bit of a wander around the village.
The Duke of Marlborough began its life in 1827 as “Johnny Johnston's Grog Shop”. The owner Johnny Johnston was an ex-convict come good. He soon changed the name of his hotel to the Duke of Marlborough, at the time the Duke of Marlborough was the world’s richest man, so the name sought to bring respect, elegance and opulence to the “Hell Hole of the Pacific”. The original hotel was burnt down during the battle of Kororāreka in 1845 and the second suffered the same fate 1931. The current impressive building was built in Cable Bay in 1875 and relocated here in 1932.
The hotel is in a lovely spot looking out over the bay and lunch was delicious.
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After lunch, we wandered up the road to the Pompallier Mission and Printery. More History! From 1842, Pompallier Mission and Printery was the hub of the Catholic mission in the country, its printery producing 40,000 prayer books in te reo Māori (Māori language), an impressive feat. The printery is now a museum and was well worth a visit. We were even able to print a page on the French Common Press. Also on site was a tannery for making leather to bind the books. Our guide explained the process from de-hairing the hides to softening the leather and the eventual bookbinding.
Back to the wharf for the trip back across the bay to Paihia.
9th May - our 54th wedding anniversary.
Breakfast this morning at the Whare Waka Café (at the Waitangi site) before spending the morning at the Treaty Grounds.
A visit to the grounds starts with an informative guided tour with a local guide including the artifacts museum, a visit to the world's largest ceremonial war canoe (the 35.7-metre Ngatokimatawhaorua built for the 1940 centennial commemoration of the signing of the treaty) and an outline of the actual treaty process, finishing up at the historical Treaty House and the Māori Meeting House. Here we were treated to a cultural performance beginning with a traditional Māori welcome followed by performances of Waiata (singing), Māori weapons, stick games, the Poi, and the haka.
The Treaty itself was signed at the treaty house on 6 February 1840 and is a document of central importance to the history of New Zealand and its constitution. The Treaty is an agreement, in Māori and English, that was made between the British Crown and about 540 Māori rangatira (chiefs). The main purpose of the Treaty was to ensure that both parties to it would live together peacefully and develop New Zealand together in partnership. The Treaty does this by assuring Māori that their interests will be protected and confirming citizen equality. There is quite a lot of discussion these days on just how successful that has been but for all its limitations it is a far cry from what has happened in other countries, Australia included.
We then wandered back to the museum area (there were actually two of them) through the forest. The museum's main display spans the treaty history from the initial tentative contacts through to the signing in 1840 and included copies of the actual documents.
We were pretty much on information overload at this stage so despite the ticket being for "two days" we decided to head back to Bushby Manor for a rest via Haruru Falls. After all, we were heading out again for our anniversary dinner at the Terra Restaurant.
The Terra proved to be a cosy establishment. Quite small and a bit fancy without being over the top. Jill had duck, Alex had filet steak followed by Orange and Almond Cake (Jill) and Crème Brûlée (Alex). All very nice.
We packed up and left Busby Manor at 9am and headed to the Marina Café at Opua for breakfast. Quite a nice spot looking out over the marina. So many boats in this part of the world which is quite understandable when you consider how protested the waterways are. There is also a vehicular ferry from Opua to Russell for those who want to travel by car without taking a much longer route.
At Kiwi House, they also had a display of a couple of rare New Zealand geckos - very cute.
Overnight tonight at Motel Six in Whangārei, after dinner down the road at Whang Thai.
I just love the Māori words. The pronunciation of Whangārei is Fuhng-uh-ray. Our Sat Nav was doing a pretty good job of the pronunciation but we didn't have a clue of what "she" was saying until we realised "whang" is pronounced "fuhng". Our indigenous names are nowhere near as complicated.
Breakfast this morning in the Town Basin area at Mokaba Cafe. Food was quite nice but the real find was the Hundertwasser Art Centre, next door. What a building!! - the conception of artist and architect Friedensreich Hundertwasser. While first designed in 1993 the project proved controversial and was considered and rejected several times until it was finally approved in 2015. The centre opened two years after Hundertwasser's death in February 2022 and, no doubt, is still quite controversial - not a straight line in sight but lots of organic shapes, eye-catching facades, golden domes and coloured columns. As it happens, the Art Centre is one of many buildings that Hundertwasser has designed around the world, including buildings in Austria, Germany, Switzerland, the US, Japan, the Netherlands, and New Zealand. Born in Austria, Hundertwasser emigrated to New Zealand in the 1970s.
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From Whangārei it was a long drive south (almost 400km), through the centre of Auckland, down Highway One, skirting around Hamilton, to our home for the next week, Club Wyndham at Rotorua. We're on the north of Lake Rotarua about 14km from the town centre.
After settling in we went for a walk around the resort. Club Whyndham is right on the Ohau Channel which links Lake Rotarua with Lake Rotoiti. We even have Black Swans at our back door.
Dinner tonight at the on-sight Restaurant.
A nice lazy day in Rotorua today.
For breakfast, we decided on crêpes at Le Café de Paris. Something a bit different and they were very nice too.
We then headed to the Government Gardens. What strikes you as you drive into the parklands is the Old Bath House Building. The building was originally constructed in 1906-1908 and opened in 1908 as a thermal spa, offering medical and therapeutic treatments. It was the New Zealand Government’s first major investment in the tourist industry. In more recent times it was converted to a museum but has been closed since 2016 after being found to be earthquake-prone. Restoration is expected to cost $80+ million and will be complete in 2027. It's certainly a building that should be preserved.
The next stop was Sulphur Point in the Sulphur Bay Wildlife Refuge, just beyond the Bath House, to check out some thermal activity on Lake Rotorua's edge. The 145-hectare wildlife refuge and sanctuary really lives up to its name. Magnificent steam vents, boiling mud pools, naturally hot water and the Puarenga Stream - home to an array of bird species, including the nationally threatened New Zealand dabchick, banded dotterel, and black-billed gull. The water in the bay appears murky due to sulphur suspensions, is low in oxygen and is quite acidic (pH 3.5).
We then headed to Kuirau Park where walking tracks lead to numerous areas of vigorous geothermal activity. Amazing to see all this in the middle of the city. New eruptions do occur from time to time and in 2001 mud and rocks the size of footballs were suddenly hurled 10 metres into the air as a new steam vent spontaneously announced its arrival. In early Maori times, the small lake in the park was much cooler and was known as Taokahu. Legend tells us that a beautiful young woman named Kuiarau was bathing in the waters when a taniwha (legendary creature) dragged her to his lair below the lake. The gods above were angered and made the lake boil so the Taniwha would be destroyed forever. From that time on, the bubbling lake and the steaming land around it have been known by the name of the lost woman, although the spelling has changed a little.
A bit of shopping to stock up on food supplies and then back to Club Wyndham via the Te Puia Te Whakarewarewa Thermal Valley. We had read that you can sometimes see the Papakura Geyser erupting from the roadside. We hung around for a while but no activity today. Our geyser-watching will have to wait for the Lady Knox on Tuesday.
A big day today. This morning we are off to Hell's Gate and then this evening we have a cultural experience at Te Pā Tū
We finished our time at Hell's Gate with a mud bath - their info says "once bathed in by Māori warriors, the mud and waters of Tikitere have soothed battle-scarred bodies for centuries. To this very day our nutrient-rich water relaxes the body, while our mud gently exfoliates the skin. Take the time out to experience this healing for yourself, with a soak in the sulphur pool and full body mud coverage. You’ll leave rejuvenated and fresh, ready for the rest of your adventure". I'm not sure that it was all that but it was quite enjoyable all the same.
After lunch at Hell's Gate, it was back to Whyndham for a rest before setting off once again for our evening experience at Te Pā Tū . Te Pā Tū itself is some way out of town on the road south to Lake Taupo so the experience starts at the Gathering Centre in Rotorau. From there it's a short coach trip to the site.
The event is held in a traditional forest Pā (village) and is a feast on song, drama, tradition, and seasonal kai (cuisine). The traditional hāngi joined seasonal Māori delicacies prepared with fusion cooking techniques. Cultural knowledge unique to each season is shared through rituals, songs, and stories across the evening as is the local, seasonal kai (food) - plentiful and delicious. It was a fun night.
Up early this morning for the 50km drive to Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland. An early start because we wanted to be there before 10:15 to see the Lady Knox Geyser erupt. We must admit that we were just a little bit disappointed when we actually got to see the geyser as we were expecting it to be a natural occurrence. Instead, we discovered that the geyser is encouraged to erupt by dropping a surfactant (small cakes of soap in this case) down its vent. Despite that disappointment, the eruption is quite amazing with the geyser shooting something like 20 metres into the air. The history behind all this goes back to 1901 and the country's first open prison. Inmates were using the hot water bubbling out of the ground here to do their laundry. The soap reduced the surface tension of the water and allowed the geyser to erupt, to the prisoners' astonishment and our continued astonishment today.
Near to the pools the hot water runs over artificial rapids in order to cool it for bathing. there were lots of choice - the main Settlers pool (35-38°C) and adjoining toddlers' beach area as well as the sit 'n' soak pool (38-40°C) and luxurious tranquil garden and pergola pools. So well done and we loved the natural surroundings. We had a lovely soak.
Even though we had seen Kiwis at Kiwi North, we decided to add the National Kiwi Hatchery to our itinerary. And we were not disappointed. It was quite different. While we enjoyed seeing the kiwi at Kiwi North this was much more. The largest and most successful Kiwi hatchery in the world, the National Kiwi Hatchery is the leader in kiwi husbandry, egg incubation systems, hatching techniques and kiwi chick rearing.
The hatchery has recently relocated is is now part of the Agrodome which is a "sheep" experience venue just out of Rotorua. We however, were there to see a Kiwi, so it was a matter of hopping on the minibus and being transported a short distance to the hatchery where we were met by a guide who took us through the facility.
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In the wild, kiwi eggs get eaten by predators; only five out of 100 kiwi eggs laid in forest burrows make it to adulthood. By hatching the kiwi eggs in safety, the birds’ survival rate in the wild increases from 5% to 65%.
Great to see things like this happening. (No photos allowed inside the actual hatchery so "chick pix" from the website)
After the hatchery, we headed home (the long way round) through Rotorua where we grabbed a bite to eat for lunch and a bit of a wander around the shops.
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Today we decided to explore the lakes around Rotorua and what better way to do it than to take a Duck Tour in an amphibious WWII landing craft.
We picked up the tour in downtown Rotorua with guide Ester and driver/piolet, Alex and headed out past the Redwoods to Lake Tikitapu (the Blue Lake). Amazing how you can drive from the road straight down the ramp and into the water. Today we are being accompanied by a second "duck" which had been in for mechanical repairs and was on a test run.
The area was vastly altered by the volcanic eruption of Mount Tarawera in 1886. Prior to the eruption, it was home to many small Māori villages and missionary settlements. The area became the birthplace of New Zealand tourism. Visitors would travel through Tarawera on their way to visit the Pink and White Terraces on the neighbouring Lake Rotomahana. These geothermal pools, made from silica deposit formations, were labelled as the 8th Natural Wonder of the World, and news of this ‘geothermal wonderland’ spread to the far away Victorian world.Tarawera villagers would host these visitors in the missionary accommodation houses, and entertain them with Māori cultural performances and traditionally cooked hangi meals, starting the tradition of hosting and guiding that Rotorua is still known for today.
The eruption of Mount Tarawera completely devastated the area, burying the villages and the Pink and White Terraces under mud and ash.
From Lake Tarawera it was back to Rotorua. Ester did a fantastic job as guide and it was a very pleasant way to see some of the Rotorua countryside.
Back in Rotorua we headed for another walk around Kuirau Gardens before heading for the the Thursday night market to grab some dinner before heading back to our accommodation.
Our last day in Rotorua. What did we still need to see? Apparently, you can't come to Rotorua without visiting the Redwoods so this morning we intend to do the Redwood walk and tonight we have booked in for the Night Treewalk. During the day we will squeeze in a drive to Okera Falls.
First stop, however, is breakfast at Eastwood Cafe in the Scion Innovative Centre. Breakfast was pretty good but the building it is in is quite spectacular. It's the headquarters of Scion, a research institute that specialises in technology development for the forestry industry and as you would expect "shows off" what can be done with timber. The building is all triangles made from laminated veneer timber.
Time to walk off breakfast in the Redwoods. We chose the 3.4km Waitawa Walk which starts through the Redwood Memorial Grove planted in 1901. These amazing redwood trees tower above you at approximately 67 metres tall and the path continues on to a boardwalk over an old thermal pond returning to the visitors centre through a stand of Douglas Fir.
Back to our accommodation for a rest and then off to Okera Falls (not too far away). The falls and the Okera River are favourite spots for adrenaline junkies who enjoy themselves in both Kayaks and rafts. We were fortunate to be there just as a group came over the falls. Not for us but they certainly appeared to be having fun.
There's a nice easy 1.2km walk from the carpark that takes the Okera Falls and a smaller falls all the way through to the Trout Pool. We went as far as the falls and then backtracked to the carpark and drove to the Trout Pools, to arrive just as the raft group were packing up.
At the entrance to the walking track, there is a huge turbine, evidence of the Okere Falls Power Station that began operating in 1901 and closed in 1939.
Also of interest are Hinemoa's Steps, some steep steps near the falls which take you down to the water's edge. Tutea's Cave is at the bottom of these steps but it's fenced off and you can only see a little way into the cave (apparently named after one of the local chiefs; Tutea).
All in all, a lovely spot and well worth adding to the itinerary.
