Norfolk Island August/September 2025

 Norfolk Island is one of those destinations we put on the "back burner" as an easy place to visit for when we get older.  The reality - that time has come, so we've booked a week at Endeavour Lodge through the Norfolk Island travel service from 28th August to 4th September.

The island is at a similar latitude to Mullumbimby (so we're not expecting too much change in the weather) and is 1,400 kilometres off the coast.  In size, it's approximately 8km long and 5km wide, totalling an area of 3,455ha (35 km2). 

East Polynesians were the first to settle Norfolk Island, but they had already departed when Great Britain settled it as part of its 1788 colonisation of Australia. The island served as a convict penal settlement from 6 March 1788 until 5 May 1855, except for an 11-year hiatus between 15 February 1814 and 6 June 1825, when it lay abandoned. On 8 June 1856, permanent civilian residence on the island began when descendants of the Bounty mutineers were relocated from Pitcairn Island. In 1914, the UK handed Norfolk Island over to Australia to administer as an external territory.  

As of the 2012 census, there were 2,188 permanent residents on the island.

Thursday 28th August 2025 - Brisbane to Norfolk Island

Up early this morning to meet our 11:35am flight from Brisbane to Norfolk Island.  We thought we might have an easy run re the traffic as it was light going north, while those coming south were reduced to a crawl.  That was until we got closer to Brisbane and onto the Gateway Motorway.  Just as well we gave ourselves plenty of time.  Parked in Airpark2 and caught the bus to the International Airport.  Even though it is actually a domestic flight, Norfolk Island being part of Australia, the flights go from the International airport - unfortunately.  Such a palava to get through airports....  It was much less hassle last year flying internationally to New Zealand from the Gold Coast than flying out of Brisbane.

The flight itself was straightforward and only about 2 hours. Interesting that as we were coming in to land, I took some pictures out of the window. Little did I know I was taking a picture of Endeavour Lodge, where we were to stay for the week.

We were picked up at the airport and delivered to our accommodation on the southern side of the island.  

The lodge is made up of several self-contained units overlooking the ocean and looking out towards Phillip Island.  'tis a lovely spot and nice and quiet. The one-bedroom unit we're in is nicely appointed, quite large and has a tremendous view from our balcony. It's a bit away from "town", but as a car is provided (a Kia Rio) as part of the package, that is not a problem.  A local mobile phone is also included in the package ($5 Credit) as Australian SIMs do not work on the island.

The owner of the lodge, Duncan Evans, is a 7th-generation descendant of Fletcher Christian (the leader of the Mutiny on the Bounty) and his wife Gaewyn, is a descendant of the Reverand Henry Fulton, an Irish political prisoner who was the Presbyterian Chaplain during the first Convict settlement from 1801 to 1806.

After settling in, we went for a bit of a drive to town (Burnt Pine) to do some grocery shopping.  As you would expect, prices are a bit up on Mullumbimby, and there was no gluten-free bread to be found - not surprising really.  We came back via historic Kingston, where the convict settlements had been built.  Lots of history, but as we would hear more on the Orientation Tour tomorrow and a walking Tour on Monday, we just did a drive through.

Dinner tonight was at the Salty Beer Garden.  Grilled local fish (Trumpeter, what we would call Sweetlip), and it was very good.

Friday 29th August 2025 - Norfolk Island (Orientation Tour)

 As today's orientation tour is booked for 8:30, it was plunger coffee and marmalade of a gluten-free wrap (in place of bread) for breakfast before heading off to the Pioneer Tour Office for the tour.  Damian was our guide, another of the Mutiny descendants.

We spent quite a bit of time around Kingston and now have a much better understanding of the two penal colonies and then the settlement of the Bounty Mutiny descendants in 1856.

First stop was Queen Elizabeth lookout, which looked over Kingstone and out towards Napean and Phillip Island.  It is somewhat surprising to see so many of the buildings from convict days still standing and in good condition. I might add that these buildings date from the second penal colony, as when the first was abandoned, all buildings were destroyed so that they didn't fall into the hands of the French (England was at war with France at the time). 

The buildings' longevity is attributed to the fact that they were built from coral rock (calcarenite) mined locally and with lime mortar mined offshore on Napean Island.  

from Queen Elizabeth Lookout

from Emily Bay

From Kingston we drove to Cascade Bay, once home to a whaling station.  Cascade Pier is one of only two piers on the island (the other being where we had just been in Kingston) and today, fishing boats and the monthly supply vessel keep the pier "sort of" busy. When a ship arrives, it’s all action – cranes unloading cargo, boats zipping between ship and shore, and locals watching it all unfold. Until recently, it was also where cruise ships called, but our guide tells us this is no longer happening.  I need to fact-check that, as Google says it's still happening.

From Cascade, we drove to the north of the island to Orn Dar Cliff (on the Cliff) where the Fish Fryups are held.  In our case, it was for morning tea - tea/coffee and scones.  It was then back along the western coast road to Burnt Pine.

Lunch today was at 'the Boat Shed', part of the Governor's Lodge establishment.  It was then back to Endeavour Lodge for a restful afternoon.

Come 4pm, we went for a drive to Captain Cook Lookout on the north of the island. On the may we passed through an avenue of Morton Bay fig trees.  They may not be native to the island but they certainly like this spot.

Captain Cook Lookout.  It was here, in 1774, that Cook first landed and famously described Norfolk Island as ‘paradise’. With its soaring pines, craggy headlands, and views that stretch far into the South Pacific, it’s easy to understand why it captured his heart.  He was also keen about the Norfolk Pines being used for ship masts and the flax plant being used for sails.  Unfortunately, when the first convict settlement was established, they discovered that the Norfolk Pine was not as suitable mast material as he had hoped.

A stone obelisk marks the place of Cook’s landing, but the real spectacle begins at the lookout where you can gaze across sheer cliffs fringed with Norfolk pines, and out to sea where dramatic rock formations, including Bird Rock, Elephant Rock, Cathedral Rock, Green Pool Stone and Moo Moo Stone, rise from the ocean. Thanks to another visitor with a telephoto lens, we could spot Masked Boobies on Moo Moo rock, but they were a bit too far away for our camera.

Old Man's Beard on the Norfolk Island Pines at Captain Cook Lookout

Sunset over Anson Bay

Dinner tonight was King Fish at the Bowling Club.  The venue was a bit loud, but the local fish was excellent.

Saturday 30th August 2025 - Norfolk Island (National Park and the Botanical Gardens)

 Saturday is Farmers' Market on Norfolk Island.  We didn't need to stock up on produce, but thought we should check it out.  It was tiny, just 4 stalls selling eggs, a small selection of fruit and vegetables and a lady selling relish, etc.  We were tempted to buy some avocados, but as we haven't been able to find any gluten-free bread, we decided against it. We did buy some relish and a custard apple.

Breakfast at Olive cafe.  It was ok, but Jill's fried eggs were a bit underdone.  We will try somewhere else tomorrow.

Today's plan is to visit the National Park and complete the Summit Track from the car park at Mount Pitt to Mount Bates, the highest point on the island, at 319 metres.  The view from Mount Pitt is just amazing, looking south over the island and out to Phillip Island.

Mount Pitt

The walk was less than a kilometre and is quite well established with a walkway for some of the distance.  A bit of World War II memorabilia at Mount Pitt, where there was a radar station during the war and more amazing views both to the North and to the South.  Not a lot of birdlife, but we did have several friendly Grey Fantails keeping us company along the track.  And we also spotted what I originally thought was a Silvereye but according to the comprehensive National Parks brochures that you can buy for $5, it turned out to be a Slender-billed White-eye, a native bird that is on the Rare and Endangered list, so that was a bonus.

Mout Bates

We had intended to also walk the Palm Glen Circuit, but discovered to do that, we would need to drive back to town and up a different road to get to the starting point.  We decided to leave that to another day and instead visit the Botanical Gardens, which were on our route back to town.

The Botanical Garden is a bit different to most and rather than a manicured garden, is a walk through the native bush where the island’s unique biodiversity is showcased, with many of the plants found nowhere else on Earth.  We were also hoping that we might see the Norfolk Island Green Parrot, but no such luck today. There's a short boardwalk trail which winds through subtropical rainforest, past towering Norfolk pines and giant tree ferns (reputed to be the tallest in the world). Interpretive signs help you learn about local species along the way.

Norfolk Island Botanical Gardens

The Botanical Garden began in the 1950s as a 0.6-hectare private garden created by Mrs. Annie Moore, After her departure in 1975, the Norfolk Island Administration maintained the site until 1986, when it became part of the Norfolk Island National Park and Botanic Garden.

Back to Burnt Pine, where we picked up some corn cakes to have with cheese and relish for lunch (and a coffee) and then a bit of a rest.  

Dinner tonight at Hilli Restaurant, a bit upmarket on the usual pub/club food.  Curry for Jill and Pork Belly for me.  All very nice and we even had sweets, GF Brownie with Sorbet and a Crème Brûlée.

Sunday 31st August 2025 - Norfolk Island (100 Acre Reserve, St Barnabas & The Bounty Story)

 Saturday is the Farmers' Market and Sunday is Craft Market, so it was off to town at 8:30 to check it out.  Lots of touristy stuff and jewellery.  Purchased a few bits and pieces and then headed off to Prinke Eco Store for breakfast.  Their coffee is supposed to be the best in Norfolk Island.  Unfortunately, despite advertising that they are open on Sundays, they were closed, so it was a search for another breakfast venue.  We ended up at High Tide Kitchen, which turned out to be a disappointment.  Food was ok (we shared a full breakfast) despite missing the mushrooms on the menu, but the coffee didn't score many points.  You live and learn.

Bumboras Beach

A bit of sightseeing today.  First to Bumboras Beach, which is apparently a popular surfing spot.  No surfers today as the sea is very rough following a wild and windy night last night.  A pretty spot with a nice wooden walkway down to the beach.  Someone had even gone to the trouble of building a giant chair out of pallets.

Rocky Point - Crystal Pool

Next stop was Crystal Pool.  They could do a little better with their signage over here, as we are not sure which of the spots we were looking at was Crystal Pool, but with the wild waves, they all looked pretty crystal - such an amazing shade of blue.

Longridge

On the road down to the pools, we pass some ruins that get very little mention in the brochures.  They're called the Arches, and apparently continue to intrigue Norfolk Island’s historians and archaeologists. The Arches are a series of impressive brick structures, built during Norfolk Island’s second convict era and are part of an old estate known as Longridge settlement. 

The Arches’ fine craftsmanship and enduring architecture have left few clues about the structure’s former purpose. Longridge was a convict settlement comprising of some 35 buildings, including prisoners’ barracks, stables, barns, a bakehouse and houses for the overseers and superintendents. The prison was known as Branka House. Convicts confined here worked the farm and provided food for the rest of the settlement. Some say the Arches are the ruins of the prisoners’ barracks while others believe the site was simply a stable for the settlement’s horses. It's all a bit of a mystery.

Hundred Acres Reserve

A little further along the coast, we spent some time in Hundred Acres Reserve.  Located on Norfolk Island’s southern coastline, Hundred Acres Reserve protects a patch of coastal forest and offers one of the island’s most tranquil walks. The trail winds through white oaks, Norfolk pines and Moreton Bay fig trees before emerging at Rocky Point.

St Barnabas Church

And to complete today's sightseeing we called at St Barnabas Church.  This chapel was dedicated in 1880, and together with Bishop’s Court is all that remains of a large Melanesian Mission established there from 1866-1924.  The magnificent sandstone chapel is considered one of the finest historic buildings in the South Pacific. The internal fittings include glorious stained glass windows designed by Sir Edward Burne-Jones, a splendid carved walnut reredos with mosaic inlay, hand carved pearl-shell pew decorations and an English black marble floor and font. Taking pride of place is the 1876 Henry Willis organ located in a spacious chamber to the south-east of the building.  An amazing building.

Back to Endeavour Lodge for lunch and a rest.......

Dinner tonight was at the RSL Club followed by a visit to the local theatre for a movie on The Bounty Story.

While the infamous 1789 mutiny aboard HMAV Bounty is a pivotal moment of this story, it marks just the beginning of a much greater story.  The production explored how the isolated Pitcairn people, undetected for decades, overcame early turmoil to create the vibrant and unique culture that thrives on Norfolk Island today.  A fascinating story, even if it wasn't quite what we expected.  I guess for $58 each, we were expecting a bit more than just a story told through a movie.

Monday 1st September 2025 - Norfolk Island (Palm Glen, World Heritage Walk, Progressive Dinner)

We did get to Prinke Eco Store for breakfast this morning, and if it is the best coffee in town (as promoted), then we're in trouble.  Perhaps we're just coffee snobs, but it's a shame very few venues can do a "real" flat white these days.  If one wants fluff on top, then one would order a latte.  Oh well!!  The sourdough fruit bread was very nice, all the same.

Another walk!  This time, the eastern section of the National Park at Palm Glen Circuit.  Quite a spectacular rainforest gully filled with Norfolk Island Palms and tree ferns, plus some pines.  It was only about a kilometre, but did feel a lot further.  At one point, there was (yet another) magnificent panoramic view over the island and out to Phillip Island.

Palm Glen

Back to town to buy a few t-shirts and then down to the golf club in Kinstown for lunch.  Stopped off at the Bloody Bridge, a convict-built bridge getting its name from the story of a guard being murdered during its construction and being buried inside the bridge.  After all that, we then discovered that the golf club was closed on Mondays; consequently, the plan changed to lunch and a brief rest back at Endeavour Lodge in preparation for the World Heritage Walk at 1:30 pm.

Bloody Bridge

Rick was our guide, and the walk concentrated on the wreck of the Sirius, the New Jail and the life of the convicts during the second Penal Colony.

The HMS Sirius was the flagship of the First Fleet that established the first European colony in Australia, and Norfolk Island's link to Sydney town and the outside world.  Its wreck on the reef just offshore at Kingston on March 19, 1790, was a significant disaster for the fledgling colony, resulting in the loss of vital supplies and communication with Britain. The shipwreck site is now considered Australia's most important shipwreck, representing a significant piece of cultural heritage.

The "New Gaol" refers to the pentagonal prison complex built between 1836 and 1847 during the island's second penal settlement for housing difficult convicts, featuring a central building with radiating cell blocks. Although the buildings are now long gone, enough remains to enable Rick to give us an idea of what life was like back in the 1830s, and a miserable life it would have been.  Over the years, the buildings were scavenged and the material used elsewhere.  Fortunately for history's sake, the perimeter wall and gate archway still stand. pretty well intact.

The New Gaol

Following the talk, we spent some time in the port area - checked out the photographic display in the Surgeons' Quarters. This building is quite unique, constructed in 1827 from a framework shipped over from Sydney and clad with weatherboards and shingles crafted from local timbers. 

Today, this resilient little building is the home of the Norfolk Island Lions Club, and houses a fascinating collection of photographs of island life over the years. Interestingly, behind the quarters, you can see the foundations of an adjoining house, destroyed when the First Settlement was abandoned.

Kingston - Norfolk Island

Monday night was Progressive Dinner Night, so we fronted up to the Pinetree Tours office at 6:30 for our night out.  Over the course of the evening, we enjoyed a delicious 3-course meal, each served in a different family home.  Food was delicious, using mostly local produce, and each family had a story to tell.  Good food, good company, what more could one ask for?

Progressive Dinner
Table made from a single piece of Norfolk Pine

Tuesday 2nd September 2025 - Norfolk Island (Colleen McCollough Home, Point Howe, A Night on the Bounty)

 This morning, we were off to Colleen McCollough's Home for a tour with Baunti Tours.  We were escorted through her very interesting home by a former (and current) housemaid.  The building is completely "stuffed" with priceless artefacts gathered by Colleen in her worldly travels.  She was obviously a very interesting, eccentric individual as well as a great author.  Decadent is a word that comes to mind when looking at the contents of the home.

Colleen made her home on Norfolk Island in 1979, married an Islander, Ric, in 1984 and remained here until her death in 2015.

Colleen McCollough House
some photos are not ours for obvious reasons

Her home is a two-storey building (we only got to see downstairs), but the ceilings are quite low and the rooms too small for all the 'grand' stuff.  On the tour, you get a glimpse of her extensive research library as well as where she worked.  A nice little message beside her desk, "My mind just doesn't wander.  Sometimes it fucks off altogether".  Good to note she had that problem too.  She hated technology and belted out between 15,000 and 30,000 words a day on a heavy electric typewriter, usually at night.

The entry hall features huge paintings of Colleen and Ric, and elsewhere, there are artworks by well-known artists, including Norman Lindsay and James Gleeson.  And there's no way you can miss the metallic wallpapers by Florence Broadhurst.

There was an imposing wall of glasses in a backlit cabinet, endless rows from Milan, Napoleon Bonaparte glasses and Roman glass from 4 A.D. We marched past, carefully passing the display in single file.  No wonder we had to leave our bags at the door.

Underneath a chandelier (gold-plated no less) sat a heavy Waterford Crystal globe of the world. This was on a glass dining table, and even that sheet of glass was mounted on glass dolphins.

There were strikingly modern stained-glass windows, created by Cherry Phillips, who also worked on the designs for Parliament House. She needed to spend a few months living at McCullough's to create this masterpiece.

The kitchen holds industrial stoves and was a hub for the 17 staff who ran the house and the 10-hectare property.  Even here, you could see Colleen's stamp as everything was methodically labelled. 

We entered the conservatory, another room used for entertaining guests. 'Col refused to let anyone cut back the fronds, and they trailed downwards almost to table height.  Here we even got to sit down for a while on the psychedelic-swirled upholstered chairs (photo above), and our housekeeper fielded questions about McCullough's life.

All in all, a fascinating look into the life of one of our well-known authors.  Probably wouldn't include it on the "must do" list but interesting all the same.

Once back in town, we set out for the wharf at Cascade, as last night's progressive dinner, we were told that the islanders would be off fishing today, and when they return to shore, they clean the fish before landing, much to the appreciation of lots of sharks.  No cleaning when we arrived, but we were fascinated that the boats are winched out of the water by a crane and placed onto boat trailers.  No such thing as a boat ramp in Norfolk Island. 

Cascade Wharf

While on this part of the island, we had a look at Cockpit Waterfall.  Not very big but interesting all the same.

Cockpit Waterfall

Back to town to The Helm cafe, and we finally found a cafe in Norfolk Island that could make a flat white coffee.  And the shared BLAT was pretty good too.

After lunch, we thought we should explore the north of the island, so we headed off to Point Howe and Anson Bay.  Lots of spectacular scenery and the Black Noddy's at Point Howe were very entertaining.

Black Noddy's at Point Howe

Anson Bay

At 3 o'clock we were at the World of Norfolk Exhibit, a photographic exhitition of the island and its life by Rob Nisbet.  Amazing photos!  No photos, though.

When we were at the Baunti Tour office earlier in the day, we discovered that the Commandant's Dinner and Show that we were booked in for tomorrow had to be cancelled as some of the actors had influenza.  (Bought to the island by some of the recent Pro-Am golfers, we were told.) We were offered a Night on the Bounty show at the golf club instead.  The only problem was that it was for tonight.  We had thought that we would do the Fish Fry tonight.  Oh well, another time!

The Night on the Bounty was pretty low-key.  Pretty amateurish, really, or as Jill said, unfasticated.  It was a fun night all the same.

The Night on the Bounty

Another lovely sunset - tonight from our verandah at Endeavour Lodge

Wednesday 3rd September 2025 - Norfolk Island (Kingston Historic Area)

Off to the Golden Orb cafe for breakfast this morning.  And they could make a proper flat white coffee too.  An enjoyable breakfast.

In the last week, we had been to the Kingston area a few times but hadn't spent a lot of time actually exploring.  Today was the day.

The Prisoners Barracks

Started at the foreshore area at the New Jail, where we were the other day.  From there to the Prisoner's Barracks and on to the Lime Kiln and Salt House.  The Lime kiln, where they reduced the limestone from nearby Napean Island to lime for mortar, and the Salt House, where they evaporated seawater to collect salt, an important part of their rations.

The Lime Kiln

The Salt House

Across the road is the site of the only remnants of the Polynesian Settlement, which preceded the First Penal Colony in 1788.  Archaeological remains suggest a single phase of occupation in the period between c. 1150 and c. 1450 AD, with settlers probably arriving from East Polynesia by way of the Kermadec Islands.  Other evidence included the discovery of bananas growing in Arthur’s Vale in 1788, stone artefacts and the wreckage of a canoe at Ball’s Bay and various Polynesian artefacts recovered from this site.

Archaeological dig - Polynesian Settlement

Next stop was the cemetery.  So many young deaths and so many from drowning.  There are two parts to the cemetery.  The Penal Colony cemetery and one for the present day.  We even found Colleen McCollough's grave stone.

Quality Row, as it has been called since the arrival of the Pitcain Islanders (previously Military Row) has many buildings that date from the second penal colony and have been restored.  Some are even used as private residences.  There are a couple that are now museums, which we visited.  One was the home of the Engineer and the other the Forman of Works.  These guys had it pretty good, so different from the poor wretches contained in the New Prison and the Prisoner's Barracks.

We completed our exploring with a quick stop at the New Military Barracks and a longer visit to the Commissariat Store, the top floor of which was turned into a church (All Saints Church) for the Pitcain Islanders on their arrival.  It's still where the Anglican congregation of Norfolk Island meets.

The New Military Barracks

The Commissariat Store & All Saints Church

By this stage, we were exhausted.  Back to Endeavour Lodge via Queen Elizabeth Lookout for one last look over Kingston and then a well-earned rest.

Quality Row, Kingston, Norfolk Island

Drove back into Burnt Pine this evening for dinner at the Leagues Club.  Another dinner of local trumpeter fish for me and a Chicken Teriyaki for Jill.  All quite nice.

Thursday 4th September 2025 - Norfok Island and the flight home

Packed our bags this morning, ready for the flight home.  Filled the car with fuel on the way into town.  A bit over $60 for our week's driving at over $3 per litre.

Breakfast at the Helm this morning and then dropped off the key, mobile phone, etc at the Endeavour Lodge office.  We still had access to the car for another hour, so we headed off to have a look at the Fletcher's Mutiny Cyclorama.  No photos again here, so a few from the "web".  The Cyclorama is a 360-degree panoramic painting depicting the story of how the Bounty mutineer descendants came to settle on Norfolk Island. The original idea was the brainchild of islander Marie Bailey, whose travels had taken her to see a Cyclorama in Quebec, painted in the 1800s. She felt it would be the perfect way to convey the Bounty story, and developed the idea with local artists, Tracey Yager and Sue Draper.  All very well done.

While there, we had a wander through the Queen Victoria Gardens next door.  The gardens were created by the founder of the Cyclorama, Marie Bailey, to honour Queen Victoria. A qualified horticulturalist, Marie has amassed a wide collection of plant species from around the world and, along with local native species, has established a beautiful place to appreciate nature.  A bit more variety here than in the Norfolk Island Botanical Gardens.

Dropped the car back at the Endeavour Lodge Office ("just leave the keys in the ignition" - guess there's nowhere to hide if you pinch a car on NI) and settled in at their lounge to wait for our bus to the airport at 1pm.

After dropping off our baggage, we popped across the road to a cute little French restaurant for a coffee and a shared almond croissant.  There are no such facilities at the airport.  Mind you, going through security checks etc was considerably less stressful than at Brisbane (but probably just as thorough). 

An uneventful flight back to Brisbane, where our car was waiting for us at Airpark2, ready for the two-hour drive home.

One last sunset as we land in Brisbane

Loved Norfolk Island.  Fantastic views, incredible history and no stress.  Everyone should have it on their Bucket List.