Tuesday, 9 January 2007 - Hoi An

Today we got up after a night snuggled in our new double silk sleeping sheet ($7US) and under a mosquito net, which we tucked in around us, as Jill did actually see a mosquito earlier in the evening.  Breakfast downstairs - yoghurt and fruit, lemon drink and green tea.  We organised a tour to My Son for later in the week - in a minibus and back by boat for the 4 of us ($30 for the 4 of us) with the girl at reception.  Her boyfriend does the tours.  She is also getting us some dripolators for making coffee over a cup. She can get them cheaper at the market than we can.  

And to top it off, she booked the train to Nha Trang.  "You are old.  You will need the day train" as our next destination after Hoi An.

The remainder of the day was spent organising a cooking class for tomorrow, a bit of exploring and then some serious shopping. 

The Exploring: The Hoi An Old Quarter is the preserved core of Hoi An Ancient Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site recognised for being an exceptionally intact Southeast Asian trading port from the 15th–19th centuries. Its architecture and street plan reflect a blend of Vietnamese, Chinese, Japanese, and European influences. It contains over 1,360 heritage structures, including 1,068 preserved houses, assembly halls, temples (including the Tam Quan Gate, originally the gateway to the Ba Mu Temple Complex), merchant residences, and the iconic Japanese Covered Bridge.  The bridge is a covered wooden footbridge with a small temple attached, officially named Lai Viễn Kiều (“Bridge to Welcome Guests from Afar”). It was built around 1593–1595 by Japanese merchants to connect their quarter with the Chinese community across the canal.  It remains one of Vietnam’s most photographed heritage sites and appears on the 20,000 VND banknote.

Much activity in Hoi An occurs along the river Thu Bồn.  The port is still busy but apparently nothing like it was when it was a major trading port in the 19th Century.  This decline had a "bright side" in that it meant the town avoided modernisation, leaving its historic buildings remarkably preserved.  The market along the river was very busy this morning (and probably is every day), including much trading of the seafood which had just landed.

Back away from the river, we explored many craft stalls.  We were particularly taken by the wooden sculpturing happening and the lantern stalls, so much so with the latter that we had to order some lanterns to take home.

The Shopping:  There were clothes to be made - Jill ordered a skirt, top, nightdress  ($80 US) and two pairs of shoes ($35 US).

Dinner tonight at the Can Cafe.  Taking the advice of the Rough Guide, we ordered the set menu of white rose, wonton, grilled fish in banana leaves, vegetables and rice plus a caramel cream. ($4 a head).  White Rose (bánh bao – bánh vạc) is a specialty of Hoi An -  delicate, flower-shaped dumplings made from translucent rice flour wrappers filled with shrimp and pork.