We were up early and down to the waterhole to see if there was any action. No animals but the sociable weavers and their nest are pretty amazing.
After breakfast, we were expecting to head out of the park towards Twyfelfontein but that was not to be. The problem with having a guide who loves his job so much (and is so good at spotting things for us, even when none of the five of us can see anything) is that today, even though we have a long drive, Ian has heard that there was a giraffe killed not too far away (although not in the direction we are heading) So we’re off to check it out. We didn’t actually see the carcase but we did see a pride of about eight lionesses of various ages who walked across the road just behind our vehicle. It was all pretty special and probably worth losing an hours travelling time. We also saw Zebra, Jackal, Hyena, Northern Black Korhaan, Springbok and our first and only African Grey Hornbill. We also had an amazing sky this morning as we drove out of Okaukuejo.
On our way south we stopped to take photos of termite mounds – they are quite red now (most of the ones we’ve seen previously have been whitish). Also saw some Blesbok in a paddock being farmed. I’ve probably mentioned already that there is a fair bit of farming of antelope these days.
Next stop was a visit to the Otjikandero Himba village about 20 km from Kamanjab. This village was specially set up to support orphan children and single mothers. The women wore elaborate headgear and lap laps (made from animal hides) and various anklets, bracelets, necklets and chains.
After the previous village visit, this one was a bit of a letdown. The young man showing us around was dressed in western clothes and was smoking a cigarette. His dialogue was quite interesting but it was rattled off without too much enthusiasm.
The visit was interesting all the same. When boys and girls reach puberty their 4 bottom front teeth are knocked out and boys are also circumcised at 12 years old. The women don’t use water for cleaning themselves, instead doing a morning routine with smoke to cleanse themselves and stop vermin getting into their hair extensions.
Before leaving the village here was a bit of hard sell of the trinkets, bangles etc. they had for sale. It didn’t really endear us to the village which is a shame because it certainly was an eye opener of the way others live.
Lunch was at Kamanjab. Ian had a chat to the owners of a local cafe and they let us eat our packed lunch in their café garden – very generous of them. We bought some coffee which was pretty good too.
By this time we were heading west towards Grootberg Pass. Ian had to call into Hoada Campsite (of the Grootberg Lodge) a spot he regularly camps at to show us the amazing setup built among huge granite rocks. Also spotted a Namibian Rock Iguana.
It was then quite a climb up to Grootberg Pass at 1740m – quite a view from the top. On the way down the other side we spotted some Mountain Zebras which are different to the Burchell’s by having horizontal stripes on the rump. Also spotted some Giraffe.
It was then on to our accommodation for the night at Twyfelfontein (translates as ‘doubtful spring’ because when it was discovered someone asked “Do you think it’s permanent? And the response was “It’s doubtful”. The entrance to the lodge was just amazing through a group of huge rocks. The buildings were also built around and incorporated other rocks into their design. We had drinks at the bar overlooking the pool which had a waterfall falling from a huge rock – man-made obviously but very impressive.
Dinner upstairs in the lodge was another impressive affair. We were even entertained by the staff. Apparently, there is a choir competition between various lodges and Twyfelfontein were recent winners.
