An early start this morning for the 230km drive to Cape Rēinga. Our plan was to head up Highway 1, the inland route and then return down the east coast with breakfast at Kaitaia on our way north. We did end up having breakfast in Kaitaia but it took a little longer than we planned. Just out of Mangamunka the Highway was closed for roadworks, something they seem to do in New Zealand. Rather than closing off a lane at a time, which is usual in Australia, they close the whole road and set up detours. Consequently, it was back to Mangamuka with a detour via the west coast to Kaitala. Was a pleasant drive even if it did add a few kilometres to the trip.
After breakfast we headed north along the Aupōuri Peninsula (only 10km wide), arriving at the Cape mid-morning.
Cape Rēinga is a rocky headland at the tip of the Peninsula. It is known to Māori as Te Rerenga Wairua – the departing place for the souls of the dead as they leave for the spiritual homeland of Hawaiki. While the cape is often thought to be the country’s northernmost tip, that distinction belongs to the Surville Cliffs, just north of North Cape.
At the Cape, the Tasman Sea meets the Pacific Ocean in a spectacular swirl of currents. At the northernmost tip of the Cape is a gnarled pohutukawa tree, believed to be over 800 years old. According to Maori oral history, the spirits of deceased Maori leap from this tree into the ocean to return to their ancestral homeland of Hawaiki.
From the carpark there is a very pleasant 800m walk to the lighthouse where you can see the separation of the Tasman Sea and the Pacific Ocean as well as the "famous" Pohutukawa tree. Today is a beautiful sunny day which adds to the beauty of this spot.
Heading back down the peninsula we called in at the Te Paki Sand Dunes (also called the Giant Sand Dunes but that's a bit boring). The dunes cover an area of approximately 10 kilometres by 1 kilometre, with some individual dunes rising up to 150 metres. We walked onto the dunes but didn't join the energetic people climbing to the top.
Once off the peninsular, we turned east for the coastal run back to Paihia calling in at Mangonui to visit the World Famous Mangonui Fish Shop for late lunch/early dinner. Quite a reputation to live up to. I'm not sure that it was "world famous" but the fish and calamari were good all the same. It's a beautiful spot with the fish shop built out over the waters of Mongonui Harbour.
