Today we caught the ferry across to Russell (Māori name Kororāreka). Russell has always been a popular spot and has quite a history dating from the early 19th century. In the 1830s it was a lawless trading centre where whalers, seafarers and merchants mixed with adventurers, deserters and escaped convicts from Australia. In 1840 - 41 an area just south of Russell called Okiato became the first capital of New Zealand before being relocated to Auckland (and later to Wellington in 1862). Towering above the township is Maiki Hill, topped by a flagstaff. In 1844–45 its signal flagstaff was cut down by Māori four times in a protest against the government. The action led to war. In 1845, during this conflict, Kororāreka was attacked and many buildings were destroyed. Today it's a pretty peaceful spot and a popular tourist destination.
We caught the ferry from Paihia for the 30-minute trip across the bay. On arrival, we booked lunch at the Duke of Marlborough Hotel and had a bit of a wander around the village.
The Duke of Marlborough began its life in 1827 as “Johnny Johnston's Grog Shop”. The owner Johnny Johnston was an ex-convict come good. He soon changed the name of his hotel to the Duke of Marlborough, at the time the Duke of Marlborough was the world’s richest man, so the name sought to bring respect, elegance and opulence to the “Hell Hole of the Pacific”. The original hotel was burnt down during the battle of Kororāreka in 1845 and the second suffered the same fate 1931. The current impressive building was built in Cable Bay in 1875 and relocated here in 1932.
The hotel is in a lovely spot looking out over the bay and lunch was delicious.
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After lunch, we wandered up the road to the Pompallier Mission and Printery. More History! From 1842, Pompallier Mission and Printery was the hub of the Catholic mission in the country, its printery producing 40,000 prayer books in te reo Māori (Māori language), an impressive feat. The printery is now a museum and was well worth a visit. We were even able to print a page on the French Common Press. Also on site was a tannery for making leather to bind the books. Our guide explained the process from de-hairing the hides to softening the leather and the eventual bookbinding.
Back to the wharf for the trip back across the bay to Paihia.
