Norfolk Island August/September 2025

 Norfolk Island is one of those destinations we put on the "back burner" as an easy place to visit for when we get older.  The reality - that time has come, so we've booked a week at Endeavour Lodge through the Norfolk Island travel service from 28th August to 4th September.

The island is at a similar latitude to Mullumbimby (so we're not expecting too much change in the weather) and is 1,400 kilometres off the coast.  In size, it's approximately 8km long and 5km wide, totalling an area of 3,455ha (35 km2). 

East Polynesians were the first to settle Norfolk Island, but they had already departed when Great Britain settled it as part of its 1788 colonisation of Australia. The island served as a convict penal settlement from 6 March 1788 until 5 May 1855, except for an 11-year hiatus between 15 February 1814 and 6 June 1825, when it lay abandoned. On 8 June 1856, permanent civilian residence on the island began when descendants of the Bounty mutineers were relocated from Pitcairn Island. In 1914, the UK handed Norfolk Island over to Australia to administer as an external territory.  

As of the 2012 census, there were 2,188 permanent residents on the island.

Thursday 28th August 2025 - Brisbane to Norfolk Island

Up early this morning to meet our 11:35am flight from Brisbane to Norfolk Island.  We thought we might have an easy run re the traffic as it was light going north, while those coming south were reduced to a crawl.  That was until we got closer to Brisbane and onto the Gateway Motorway.  Just as well we gave ourselves plenty of time.  Parked in Airpark2 and caught the bus to the International Airport.  Even though it is actually a domestic flight, Norfolk Island being part of Australia, the flights go from the International airport - unfortunately.  Such a palava to get through airports....  It was much less hassle last year flying internationally to New Zealand from the Gold Coast than flying out of Brisbane.

The flight itself was straightforward and only about 2 hours. Interesting that as we were coming in to land, I took some pictures out of the window. Little did I know I was taking a picture of Endeavour Lodge, where we were to stay for the week.

We were picked up at the airport and delivered to our accommodation, Endeavour Lodge, found on the southern side of the island.  

The lodge is made up of several self-contained units overlooking the ocean and looking out towards Phillip Island.  'tis a lovely spot and nice and quiet. The one-bedroom unit we're in is nicely appointed, quite large and has a tremendous view from our balcony. It's a bit away from "town", but as a car is provided (a Kia Rio) as part of the package, that is not a problem.  A local mobile phone is also included in the package ($5 Credit) as Australian SIMs do not work on the island.

The owner of the lodge, Duncan Evans, is a 7th-generation descendant of Fletcher Christian (the leader of the Mutiny on the Bounty) and his wife Gaewyn, is a descendant of the Reverand Henry Fulton, an Irish political prisoner who was the Presbyterian Chaplain during the first Convict settlement from 1801 to 1806.

After settling in, we went for a bit of a drive to town (Burnt Pine) to do some grocery shopping.  As you would expect, prices are a bit up on Mullumbimby, and there was no gluten-free bread to be found - not surprising really.  We came back via historic Kingston, where the convict settlements had been built.  Lots of history, but as we would hear more on the Orientation Tour tomorrow and a walking Tour on Monday, we just did a drive through.

Dinner tonight was at the Salty Beer Garden.  Grilled local fish (Trumpeter, what we would call Sweetlip), and it was very good.

Friday 29th August 2025 - Norfolk Island (Orientation Tour)

 As today's orientation tour is booked for 8:30, it was plunger coffee and marmalade of a gluten-free wrap (in place of bread) for breakfast before heading off to the Pioneer Tour Office for the tour.  Damian was our guide, another of the Mutiny descendants.

We spent quite a bit of time around Kingston and now have a much better understanding of the two penal colonies and then the settlement of the Bounty Mutiny descendants in 1856.

First stop was Queen Elizabeth lookout, which looked over Kingstone and out towards Napean and Phillip Island.  It is somewhat surprising to see so many of the buildings from convict days still standing and in good condition. I might add that these buildings date from the second penal colony, as when the first was abandoned, all buildings were destroyed so that they didn't fall into the hands of the French (England was at war with France at the time). 

The buildings' longevity is attributed to the fact that they were built from coral rock (calcarenite) mined locally and with lime mortar mined offshore on Napean Island.  

from Queen Elizabeth Lookout

from Emily Bay

From Kingston we drove to Cascade Bay, once home to a whaling station.  Cascade Pier is one of only two piers on the island (the other being where we had just been in Kingston) and today, fishing boats and the monthly supply vessel keep the pier "sort of" busy. When a ship arrives, it’s all action – cranes unloading cargo, boats zipping between ship and shore, and locals watching it all unfold. Until recently, it was also where cruise ships called, but our guide tells us this is no longer happening.  I need to fact-check that, as Google says it's still happening.

From Cascade, we drove to the north of the island to Orn Dar Cliff (on the Cliff) where the Fish Fryups are held.  In our case, it was for morning tea - tea/coffee and scones.  It was then back along the western coast road to Burnt Pine.

Lunch today was at 'the Boat Shed', part of the Governor's Lodge establishment.  It was then back to Endeavour Lodge for a restful afternoon.

Come 4pm, we went for a drive to Captain Cook Lookout on the north of the island. On the may we passed through an avenue of Morton Bay fig trees.  They may not be native to the island but they certainly like this spot.

Captain Cook Lookout.  It was here, in 1774, that Cook first landed and famously described Norfolk Island as ‘paradise’. With its soaring pines, craggy headlands, and views that stretch far into the South Pacific, it’s easy to understand why it captured his heart.  He was also keen about the Norfolk Pines being used for ship masts and the flax plant being used for sails.  Unfortunately, when the first convict settlement was established, they discovered that the Norfolk Pine was not as suitable mast material as he had hoped.

A stone obelisk marks the place of Cook’s landing, but the real spectacle begins at the lookout where you can gaze across sheer cliffs fringed with Norfolk pines, and out to sea where dramatic rock formations, including Bird Rock, Elephant Rock, Cathedral Rock, Green Pool Stone and Moo Moo Stone, rise from the ocean. Thanks to another visitor with a telephoto lens, we could spot Masked Boobies on Moo Moo rock, but they were a bit too far away for our camera.

Old Man's Beard on the Norfolk Island Pines at Captain Cook Lookout

Sunset over Anson Bay

Dinner tonight was King Fish at the Bowling Club.  The venue was a bit loud, but the local fish was excellent.

Saturday 30th August 2025 - Norfolk Island (National Park and the Botanical Gardens)

 Saturday is Farmers' Market on Norfolk Island.  We didn't need to stock up on produce, but thought we should check it out.  It was tiny, just 4 stalls selling eggs, a small selection of fruit and vegetables and a lady selling relish, etc.  We were tempted to buy some avocados, but as we haven't been able to find any gluten-free bread, we decided against it. We did buy some relish and a custard apple.

Breakfast at Olive cafe.  It was ok but Jill's fried eggs were a bit underdone.  We will try somewhere else tomorrow.

Today's plan is to visit the National Park and complete the Summit Track from the car park at Mount Pitt to Mount Bates, the highest point on the island, at 319 metres.  The view from Mount Pitt is just amazing, looking south over the island and out to Phillip Island.

The walk was less than a kilometre and is quite well established with a walkway for some of the distance.  A bit of World War II memorabilia at Mount Pitt, where there was a radar station during the war and more amazing views both to the North and to the South.  Not a lot of birdlife, but we did have several friendly Grey Fantails keeping us company along the track.  And we also spotted what I originally thought was a Silvereye but according to the comprehensive National Parks brochures that you can buy for $5, it turned out to be a Slender-billed White-eye, a native bird that is on the Rare and Endangered list, so that was a bonus.

We had intended to also walk the Palm Glen Circuit, but discovered to do that, we would need to drive back to town and up a different road to get to the starting point.  We decided to leave that to another day and instead visit the Botanical Gardens, which were on our route back to town.

The Botanical Garden is a bit different to most and rather than a manicured garden, is a walk through the native bush where the island’s unique biodiversity is showcased, with many of the plants found nowhere else on Earth.  We were also hoping that we might see the Norfolk Island Green Parrot, but no such luck today. There's a short boardwalk trail which winds through subtropical rainforest, past towering Norfolk pines and giant tree ferns (reputed to be the tallest in the world). Interpretive signs help you learn about local species along the way.

The Botanical Garden began in the 1950s as a 0.6-hectare private garden created by Mrs. Annie Moore, After her departure in 1975, the Norfolk Island Administration maintained the site until 1986, when it became part of the Norfolk Island National Park and Botanic Garden.

Back to Burnt Pine, where we picked up some corn cakes to have with cheese and relish for lunch (and a coffee) and then a bit of a rest.  

Dinner tonight at Hilli Restaurant, a bit upmarket on the usual pub/club food.  Curry for Jill and Pork Belly for me.  All very nice and we even had sweets, GF Brownie with Sorbet and a Crème Brûlée.

Sunday 31st August 2025 - Norfolk Island (100 Acre Reserve, St Barnabas & The Bounty Story)

 Saturday is the Farmers' Market and Sunday is Craft Market, so it was off to town at 8:30 to check it out.  Lots of touristy stuff and jewellery.  Purchased a few bits and pieces and then headed off to Prinke Eco Store for breakfast.  Their coffee is supposed to be the best in Norfolk Island.  Unfortunately, despite advertising that they are open on Sundays, they were closed, so it was a search for another breakfast venue.  We ended up at High Tide Kitchen, which turned out to be a disappointment.  Food was ok (we shared a full breakfast) despite missing the mushrooms on the menu, but the coffee didn't score many points.  You live and learn.

A bit of sightseeing today.  First to Bumboras Beach, which is apparently a popular surfing spot.  No surfers today as the sea is very rough following a wild and windy night last night.  A pretty spot with a nice wooden walkway down to the beach.  Someone had even gone to the trouble of building a giant chair out of pallets.

Next stop was Crystal Pool.  They could do a little better with their signage over here, as we are not sure which of the spots we were looking at was Crystal Pool, but with the wild waves, they all looked pretty crystal - such an amazing shade of blue.

On the road down to the pools, we pass some ruins that get very little mention in the brochures.  They're called the Arches, and apparently continue to intrigue Norfolk Island’s historians and archaeologists. The Arches are a series of impressive brick structures incorporating many arches, built during Norfolk Island’s second convict era and are part of an old estate known a Longridge settlement. 

The Arches’ fine craftsmanship and enduring architecture have left few clues about the structure’s former purpose. Longridge was a convict settlement comprising of some 35 buildings, including prisoners’ barracks, stables, barns, a bakehouse and houses for the overseers and superintendents. The prison was known as Branka House and was comprised of three wings.  Convicts confined here worked the farm and provided food for the rest of the settlement. Some say the Arches are the ruins of the prisoners’ barracks, which were used to test new techniques in rehabilitation in the mid-1800s. Longridge was renowned for its formidable solitary confinement cells. Others believe the site was simply a stable for the settlement’s horses. It's all a bit of a mystery.

A little further along the coast, we spent some time in Hundred Acres Reserve.  Located on Norfolk Island’s southern coastline, Hundred Acres Reserve protects a patch of coastal forest and offers one of the island’s most tranquil walks. The trail winds through white oaks, Norfolk pines and Moreton Bay fig trees before emerging at Rocky Point.

And to complete today's sightseeing we called at St Barnabas Church.  This chapel was dedicated in 1880, and together with Bishop’s Court is all that remains of a large Melanesian Mission established there from 1866-1924.  The magnificent sandstone chapel is considered one of the finest historic buildings in the South Pacific. The internal fittings include glorious stained glass windows designed by Sir Edward Burne-Jones, a splendid carved walnut reredos with mosaic inlay, hand carved pearl-shell pew decorations and an English black marble floor and font. Taking pride of place is the 1876 Henry Willis organ located in a spacious chamber to the south-east of the building.  An amazing building.

Back to Endeavour Lodge for lunch and a rest.......

Monday 1st September 2025 - Norfolk Island (Palm Glen, World Heritage Walk, Progressive Dinner)

We did get to Prinke Eco Store for breakfast this morning, and if it is the best coffee in town (as promoted), then we're in trouble.  Perhaps we're just coffee snobs, but it's a shame very few venues can do a "real" flat white these days.  If one wants fluff on top, then one would order a latte.  Oh well!!  The sourdough fruit bread was very nice, all the same.

Another walk!  This time, the eastern section of the National Park at Palm Glen Circuit.  Quite a spectacular rainforest gully filled with Norfolk Island Palms and tree ferns, plus some pines.  It was only about a kilometre, but did feel a lot further.  At one point, there was (yet another) magnificent panoramic view over the island and out to Phillip Island.

Back to town to buy a few t-shirts and then down to the golf club in Kinstown for lunch, to find that it was closed on Mondays.  So lunch and a little rest back at Endeavour Lodge in preparation for the World Heritage Walk at 1:30pm.

Rick was our guide, and the walk concentrated on the wreck of the Sirius, the New Jail and the life of the convicts during the second Penal Colony.

The HMS Sirius was the flagship of the First Fleet that established the first European colony in Australia, and Norfolk Island's link to Sydney town and the outside world.  Its wreck on the reef just offshore at Kingston on March 19, 1790, was a significant disaster for the fledgling colony, resulting in the loss of vital supplies and communication with Britain. The shipwreck site is now considered Australia's most important shipwreck, representing a significant piece of cultural heritage.

The "New Gaol" refers to the pentagonal prison complex built between 1836 and 1847 during the island's second penal settlement for housing difficult convicts, featuring a central building with radiating cell blocks. Although the buildings are now long gone, enough remains to enable Rick to give us an idea of what life was like back in the 1830s, and a miserable life it would have been.  Over the years, the buildings were scavenged and the material used elsewhere.  Fortunately for history's sake, the perimeter wall and gate archway still stand. pretty well intact.

Following the talk, we spent some time in the port area - checked out the photographic display in the Surgeons' Quarters. This building is quite unique, constructed in 1827 from a framework shipped over from Sydney and clad with weatherboards and shingles crafted from local timbers. 

Today, this resilient little building is the home of the Norfolk Island Lions Club, and houses a fascinating collection of photographs of island to life over the years. Interestingly, behind the quarters, you can see the foundations of an adjoining house, destroyed when the First Settlement was abandoned.

Monday night was Progressive Dinner Night, so we fronted up to the Pinetree Tours office at 6:30 for our night out.  Over the course of the evening, we enjoyed a delicious 3-course meal, each served in a different family home.  Food was delicious, using mostly local produce, and each family had a story to tell.  Good food, good company, what more could one ask for?

Tuesday 2nd September 2025 - Norfolk Island (Colleen McCollough Home, Point Howe, A Night on the Bounty)

 This morning, we were off to Colleen McCollough's Home for a tour with Baunti Tours.  We were escorted through her very interesting home by a former (and current) housemaid.  The building is completely "stuffed" with priceless artefacts gathered by Colleen in her worldly travels.  She was obviously a very interesting, eccentric individual as well as a great author.  Decadent is a word that comes to mind when describing the the contents of the home.

Colleen made her home on Norfolk Island in 1979, married an Islander, Ric in 1984 and remained here until her death in 2015.

Her home is a two-storey building (we only got to see downstairs), but the ceilings are quite low and the rooms too small for all the 'grand' stuff.  On the tour, you get a glimpse of her extensive research library as well as where she worked.  A nice little message beside her desk "My mind just doesn't wander.  Sometimes it fucks off altogether".  Good to note she had that problem too.  She hated technology and belted out between 15,000 and 30,000 words a day on a heavy electric typewriter, usually at night.

The entry hall features huge paintings of Colleen and Ric and elsewhere there is artwork by well known artists including Norman Lindsay and James Gleeson.  And there's no wau you can miss the metallic wallpapers by Florence Broadhurst.

There was an imposing wall of glasses in a backlit cabinet, endless rows from Milan, Napoleon Bonaparte glasses and Roman glass from 4 A.D. We marched past carefully passing the display in single file.  No wonder we had to leave all bags at the door.

Underneath a chandelier (gold-plated no less) sat a heavy Waterford Crystal globe of the world. This was on a glass dining table and even that sheet of glass was mounted on glass dolphins.

There were strikingly modern stained-glass windows, created by Cherry Phillips, who also worked on the designs for Parliament House. She needed to spend a few months living at McCullough's to create this masterpiece.

The kitchen holds industrial stoves and was a hub for the 17 staff who ran the house and 10-hectare property.  Even here, you could see Colleen's stamp as everything was methodically labelled. 

Off this larger hub was McCullough's personal kitchen. As she stood at 5ft 9, she had granite benches installed to the height of those she had used in laboratories.

We entered the conservatory, another room used for entertaining guests. 'Col refused to let anyone cut back the fronds, and they trailed downwards almost to table height.  Here we even got to sit down for a while on the psychedelic-swirled upholstered chairs, and our housekeeper fielded questions about McCullough's life.

All in all a fascinating look into the life of one of our well-known authors.  Probably wouldn't include it on the "must do" list but interesting all the same.

Once back in town we set out for the wharf at Cascade, as last night we had been told that the islanders would be off fishing today, and when they return to shore, they clean the fish before landing, to the appreciation of lots of sharks.  No cleaning when we arrived, but we were fascinated that the boats are winched out of the water by a crane and placed on the boat trailers.  No such thing as a boat ramp in Norfolk Island. 

While on this part of the island, we had a look at Cockpit Waterfall.  Not very big but interesting all the same.

Back to town to The Helm cafe, and we finally found a cafe in Norfolk Island that could make a flat white coffee.  And the shared BLAT was pretty good too.

After lunch, we thought we should explore the north of the island, so we headed off to Point Howe and Anson Bay.  Lots of spectacular scenery and the Black Noddy's at Point Howe were very entertaining.

At 3 o'clock we were at the World of Norfolk Exhibit, a photographic exhitition of the island and its life.  Amazing photos!

When we were at the Baunti Tour office earlier in the day, we discovered that the Commandant's Dinner and Show that we were booked in for tomorrow had to be cancelled as some of the actors had influenza.  (Bought to the island by some of the recent Pro-Am golfers, we were told.) We were offered a Night on the Bounty show at the golf club instead.  The only problem was, it was for tonight.  We had thought that we would do the Fish Fry tonight.  Oh well, another time!

The Night on the Bounty was pretty low-key.  Pretty amateurish, really, or as Jill said, unfasticated.  It was a fun night all the same.

Wednesday 3rd September 2025 - Norfolk Island (Kingston Historic Area)

Off to the Golden Orb cafe for breakfast this morning.  And they could make a proper flat white coffee too.  An enjoyable breakfast.

In the last week we had been to the Kingston area a few times but hadn't spent a lot of time actually exploring.  Today was the day.

Started at the foreshore area at the New Jail, where we were the other day.  From there to the Prisoner's Barracks and on to the Lime Kiln and Salt House.  The Lime kiln, where they reduced the limestone from nearby Napean Island to lime for mortar, and the Salt House, where they evaporated seawater to collect salt, an important part of their rations.

Across the road is the site of the only remnants of the Polynesian Settlement which preceded the First Penal Colony.

Next stop was the cemetery.  So many young deaths and so many from drowning.  There are two parts to the cemetery.  The Penal Colony cemetery and one for the present day.  We even found Colleen McCollough's grave stone.

Quality Row, as it has been called since the arrival of the Pitcain Islanders (previously Military Row) has many buildings that date from the second penal colony and have been restored.  Some are even used as private residences.  There are a couple that are now museums, which we visited.  One was the home of the Engineer and the other the Forman of Works.  These guys had it pretty good, so different from the poor wretches contained in the New Prison and the Prisoner's Barracks.

We completed our exploring with a quick stop at the New Military Barracks and a longer visit to the Commissariat Store, the top floor of which was turned into a church (All Saints Church) for the Pitcain Islanders on their arrival.  It's still where the Anglican congregation of Norfolk Island meets.

By this stage, we were exhausted.  Back to Endeavour Lodge for a well-earned rest.

Drove back into Burnt Pine this evening for dinner at the Leagues Club.  Another dinner of local trupeter fish for me and a Chicken Teriyaki for Jill.  All quite nice.

Thursday 4th September 2025 - Norfok Island and the flight home

 Packed our bags this morning ready for the flight home.  Filled the car with fuel on the way into town.  A bit over $60 for our week's driving at over $3 per litre.

Breakfast at the Helm this morning and then dropped off the key, mobile phone, etc at the Endeavour Lodge office.  We still had access to the car for another hour, so we headed off to have a look at the Cyclorama, which depicts the voyage of the Bounty, the Mutiny and then the settlement of the Bounty descendants on Norfolk Island.  Very well done.

Dropped the car back at the Endeavour Lodge Office ("just leave the keys in the ignition" - guess there's nowhere to hide if you pinch a car on NI) and settled in at their lounge to wait for our bus to the airport at 1pm.

After dropping off our baggage, we popped across the road to a cute little French restaurant for a coffee and a shared almond croissant.  There are no such facilities at the airport.  Mind you, going through security checks etc was considerably less stressful than at Brisbane (but probably just as thorough). 

An uneventful flight back to Brisbane, where our car was waiting for us at Airpark2 ready for the two hour drive home.

Loved Norfolk Island.  Fantastic views, incredible history and no stress.  Everyone should have it on their Bucket List. 

New Zealand (North Island) - May 2024

May 2024 and we're off to the North Island of New Zealand for a little over two weeks.  We fly into Auckland and pick up a car to drive to the Bay of Island for a week at Paihia.  After exploring that part of the world it's south to Rotorua, for another week, with a night along the way at Whangarei.  The trip's completed with a night at Waitoma Caves on our way back to Auckland.

Thursday, 2nd May 2024 - To Auckland

 An uneventful flight from the Gold Coast to Auckland after friend Catherine dropped us off at the airport nice and early for our midday flight.  Well, the flight was uneventful the boarding part not so much. Going through security my wallet disappeared from the tote tray.  Caused a bit of concern until it turned up on the side of the conveyor belt.  Must remember to put the wallet inside the carry-on bag in future.  And that's not all!!  Jill forgot she had a small pair of scissors in her pencil case.  They of course were confiscated.  Since we were there last, they've built a new international section for the terminal.  A bit of a "rabbit warren" to negotiate but a fairly straightforward exercise through immigration etc that one has to suffer these days.

A nice cup of coffee while we waited for our flight but no gluten-free pastries etc.

On arrival at Auckland, we headed for the One desk to get a New Zealand sim card for Alex's phone.  A pretty simple task these days as you just add an E-sim, which means you don't even have to take the Australian sim out of the phone.

Accommodation tonight is at the Pullman Hotel which is only a short walk from the terminal.  Lots of building happening at the airport and the Pullman is quite new.  Our room is near the top of the building and looks out over the airport.  Amazingly we couldn't hear a sound - obviously well insulated as well as the double glazing.  Dinner at the hotel tonight was fine and then a good night's sleep ready for the drive to Paihia in the Bay of Island tomorrow.

Friday, 3rd May 2024 - Auckland to Paihia

Up nice and early this morning for a buffet breakfast at the Pullman before heading back to the airport and our hire car - the usual buffet that one can get anywhere but at least they had real coffee to go with it.

We booked the car through Europcar and were going to settle for a Kia Seltos but were "convinced" by the man at the desk to take a plug-in hybrid Kia Sorento as we would save considerably on fuel costs - an excellent idea in theory except there turned out to be nowhere that we could plug in "easily" in either Paihia or Rotarua so the plug-in bit didn't work out.  Despite that it was a lovely car to drive and as a hybrid was pretty efficient - so no complaints.

Mind you, with all the building work happening at the airport we did have something to complain about.  At the moment, the hire cars are about a 1km walk from the airport which was a bit of a pain with our luggage.  Fortunately, we only have a single suitcase each.

It was a bit of a challenge getting out of the airport but once on the expressway, it was a straightforward drive north even if we did have to go through the centre of Auckland.  

At Maungaturoto we left the main road north and headed west as our intent was to run up the west coast as far as Omarere before turning east to Paihia.

We had thought about going through the Kauri Museum at Matakohe but as it was a long drive decided to push on for a walk to the top of Tokatoka Peak.  Was probably a bad decision as the track was a bit wet and slippery and the climb quite steep - more of an issue coming down than going up.  The outlook for the peak was pretty impressive all the same but we were a bit exhausted by the time we got down again.  They take their biosecurity pretty seriously in New Zealand and at the base of the peak we came across the first of many "cleaning stations" where you are asked to cleanse your boots before proceeding.

We called into Dargaville for a late lunch at the Blah Blah Blah Cafe (and very nice it was) before heading north again to Tāne Mahutu in the Waipoura Forest (the largest remaining tract of native forest in this part of the world).  Tāne Mahuta is New Zealand's largest kauri tree, which is approximately 2,000 years old and still growing. Nearly 18 metres to the first branch and 4.4 metres in diameter, Tāne Mahuta is rightly called 'The Lord of the Forest' and is quite a spectacle.  While there we talked to the ranger about the challenges to the Kauri forests.  Apparently, dieback is a real issue and the reason for the cleansing station - quite an elaborate one here.  While the cleansing station encourages humans to do the right thing it unfortunately doesn't prevent other intruders - rats and possums (neither native to New Zealand) from adding to the dieback issue.

From Omapera we headed east initially along the shores of Hokianga Harbour then through the forest to arrive at Piahia around 5.00pm.  Our accommodation for the next week is Busby Manor Resort.  A fairly basic spot just across the road from the beach.  Room is quite adequate - a bit squishy but comfy with everything we need.

Saturday, 4th May 2024 - Kerikeri

Off to Kerikeri (24km northwest of Paihai), this morning to their market, quite an extensive affair with a lot of it undercover.  A bit of shopping and breakfast at a vegan Mexican Stall.

Kerikeri has a long and colourful history. The area was home ground for the fearsome Maori chief Hongi Hika, who terrorised many tribes throughout the North Island in the early 1800s. Yet he was kind to missionaries, allowing Samuel Marsden to establish New Zealand's second mission station here.

After the market, we visited the Stone Store, which dates back to 1832 and is New Zealand's oldest stone building. Designed by Wesleyan missionary John Hobbs and built by an ex-convict stonemason from New South Wales, the store was meant to house large quantities of wheat from the mission farm at Te Waimate. When the wheat failed, the building was used as a kauri gum trading store.  It's built on a picturesque spot in the Kerikeri inlet which would have provided a safe anchorage for the shipping of the day.

We then visited Rainbow Falls just on the edge of town. A nice stroll along the riverbank to the 27m high falls which are quite spectacular.  There are three viewing platforms with the last near the weir at the top of the falls.  The weir supplied water to an early hydro-electric station further down the river and parts of the old water race can still be seen beside the track in places. Built in 1930 the hydro scheme initially produced electricity for just 17 customers.  George Alderton was a land developer of the area at the time and some of his customers were British civil servants who were keen to settle in Kerikeri.  However, they were used to living with at least three servants and the prospect of having no help in a strange land did not impress many of their wives.

“My mother on hearing that servants were virtually un-procurable said quite emphatically that without servants electricity was essential and she would not consider coming unless she was promised it”. 

So what did George Alderton have to do? - set up a new company to meet the expectations of settlers' wives so that he could sell land.

Back to Kerikeri for some grocery shopping.  A much bigger shopping centre here than in Paihia.  Then, after a sushi lunch, we headed back to Busby Manor for a restful afternoon followed by a wander down to Paihia wharf for the sunset.

Sunday, 5th May 2024 - Kerikeri and Ngawha Springs

The plan today is to visit Ngawha Springs 40km west of Paihai to have a soak in the "healing properties of the thermal waters".  But first, it was back to Kerikeri for their Sunday Farmers Market - a much smaller affair than yesterday and nothing for breakfast (apart from a single coffee stall).  A Google search of 'best breakfast in Kerikeri ' saw us at The Village Café which was more than adequate - a nice spot in an alleyway off the main drag.

After breakfast, we drove some backroads to Kaikohe and then on to the Springs.

Ngawha Springs (Māori: Ngāwhā, Ngāwhā meaning "boiling spring"), managed by the Parahirahi Ngāwhā Waiariki Trust, reputedly have therapeutic, balneological properties for those who bathe in their waters as well as being the source of the steam used at the Ngawha geothermal field's power station. The complex has 16 public pools and 8 private pools and varies in temperature from the rather cool 32 °C to the extremely hot "Favourite" and "Doctor" of 41 °C.  The complex was refurbished in 2020–21, including a new building with changing rooms, a café, ticket office, shop and rooms for health practitioners.  We made use of the café with a cup of tea and a muffin before our allotted time came up.

It was drizzling while we were there and being Sunday, was quite crowded, which meant we were sharing the pools with quite a few others.  the pool we spent most of our time in was at a very pleasant 37 °.  Apart from being crowded it was an enjoyable experience and would, no doubt be even more so (and quieter) during the week.

We drove back to Paihai via Kawakawa where we hoped for something to eat as we had skipped lunch and discovered that not much is open in small New Zealand towns on a Sunday afternoon - sounds like Mullumbimby used to be 30 years ago - bliss.

Tonight we walked two doors down to JFC, a fish restaurant, for dinner.  We both had snapper which was excellent.

Monday, 6th May 2024 - Bay of Islands Cruise

Today we are booked for the 10am Hole in the Rock Cruise with Island Getaway Tours.  The Bay of Islands is renowned as one of the most beautiful destinations on New Zealand’s North Island, with 144 islands dotted around the shore. This tour takes in some of the most impressive viewpoints in the area setting off from the pier at Paihia,  so just a short walk from our accommodation at Busby Manor.  It's been raining again overnight so let's hope it keeps away today.

From the pier, we headed east across the bay towards Russell and then in a northerly direction past Tapeka Point in the direction of the outer islands.  Came across several Little Blue Penguins out for their morning fish (no doubt).  They were just floating along quite oblivious to us close by.  The first stop was Motuarohia Island (Roberton Island) a small island about 4 kilometres northeast of Russell.  The island stretches for 2 kilometres east-west, with the south coast offering two bays backed by sandy beaches.  While most of the island is in private ownership, there are 19 hectares of public conservation land in the central section of the island managed by the Department of Conservation. Captain Cook's lookout (our reason for visiting the island) can be found after a 15-minute uphill walk from the western end of Twin Lagoons Bay. The panoramic view is pretty impressive - worth the effort.  Cook anchored the Endeavour just offshore in 1769 in what is now known as Cook’s Bay. At the time, the island was inhabited by up to 300 Māori, who were initially hostile towards the intruders. Later on, Cook was offered the hospitality of the natives and peace was restored.  The island has a long history of human settlement, as evidenced by archaeological sites including a pa site, terraces and pits dating back to the prehistoric beginnings of Polynesian settlement in Aotearoa.

Back on the boat, we hugged the shore through Te Rawhiti Inlet heading towards Cape Brett.  Apparently, there is a walk out to here from Russell and you can stay in the now decommissioned Lighthouse cottage.  On the way we had a shark of some sort jumping out of the water.  Quite unusual behaviour we were told by the crew.

The Hole in the Rock Island found just off  Cape Brett (named "Piercy Island " by Captain Cook and Motu Kōkako by its Māori-language name) has great cultural significance to the Ngāpuhi iwi, and was historically associated with a range of sacred customary activities. Motu Kōkako was said to be the landing place of the canoe Tūnui-a-rangi before it went to Ngunguru and Whangarei.

The 18 m hole at sea level was created over centuries by wind and waves making it one of the most naturally beautiful sites in New Zealand. As the sea was fairly calm today we even got the opportunity to travel through the "hole" - quite impressive.

On leaving the island we came across what looked like a weird sea creature.  It turned out to be a New Zealand Fur Seal lying in the water with his flipper in the air.  They are quite common in these waters and on our way towards Urupukapuka Island, we passed a sea rock which was one of their resting spots.  Looked like a good spot, without too much interruption from sightseeers.

The plan was to have lunch at the Otehei Bay Cafe on Urupukapuka Island but when we got there the cafe was closed.  Fortunately, we had brought some nuts for such an occasion but a cup of coffee would have been nice.  There's a pretty extensive wharf on the island and the bay, facing south is well protected.  No doubt a popular spot for sailers.  While there it began to rain so it was back to the boat where the crew were feeding some fish off the stern.  Not sure what they were but they were quite large and quite colourful.

From Otehei Bay it was back to the wharf at Paihai.  Still raining 

Tuesday, 7th May 2024 - Cape Reinga

 An early start this morning for the 230km drive to Cape Rēinga. Our plan was to head up Highway 1, the inland route and then return down the east coast with breakfast at Kaitaia on our way north.  We did end up having breakfast in Kaitaia but it took a little longer than we planned.  Just out of Mangamunka the Highway was closed for roadworks, something they seem to do in New Zealand.  Rather than closing off a lane at a time, which is usual in Australia, they close the whole road and set up detours.  Consequently, it was back to Mangamuka with a detour via the west coast to Kaitala.  Was a pleasant drive even if it did add a few kilometres to the trip.

After breakfast we headed north along the Aupōuri Peninsula (only 10km wide), arriving at the Cape mid-morning.

Cape Rēinga is a rocky headland at the tip of the Peninsula. It is known to Māori as Te Rerenga Wairua – the departing place for the souls of the dead as they leave for the spiritual homeland of Hawaiki. While the cape is often thought to be the country’s northernmost tip, that distinction belongs to the Surville Cliffs, just north of North Cape.

At the Cape, the Tasman Sea meets the Pacific Ocean in a spectacular swirl of currents. At the northernmost tip of the Cape is a gnarled pohutukawa tree, believed to be over 800 years old. According to Maori oral history, the spirits of deceased Maori leap from this tree into the ocean to return to their ancestral homeland of Hawaiki.

From the carpark there is a very pleasant 800m walk to the lighthouse where you can see the separation of the Tasman Sea and the Pacific Ocean as well as the "famous" Pohutukawa tree.  Today is a beautiful sunny day which adds to the beauty of this spot.

Heading back down the peninsula we called in at the Te Paki Sand Dunes (also called the Giant Sand Dunes but that's a bit boring).  The dunes cover an area of approximately 10 kilometres by 1 kilometre, with some individual dunes rising up to 150 metres.  We walked onto the dunes but didn't join the energetic people climbing to the top.

Once off the peninsular, we turned east for the coastal run back to Paihia calling in at Mangonui to visit the World Famous Mangonui Fish Shop for late lunch/early dinner.  Quite a reputation to live up to.  I'm not sure that it was "world famous" but the fish and calamari were good all the same.  It's a beautiful spot with the fish shop built out over the waters of Mongonui Harbour.

Wednesday, 8th May 2024 - Russell

 Today we caught the ferry across to Russell (Māori name Kororāreka).  Russell has always been a popular spot and has quite a history dating from the early 19th century. In the 1830s it was a lawless trading centre where whalers, seafarers and merchants mixed with adventurers, deserters and escaped convicts from Australia. In 1840 - 41 an area just south of Russell called Okiato became the first capital of New Zealand before being relocated to Auckland (and later to Wellington in 1862).  Towering above the township is Maiki Hill, topped by a flagstaff. In 1844–45 its signal flagstaff was cut down by Māori four times in a protest against the government. The action led to war. In 1845, during this conflict, Kororāreka was attacked and many buildings were destroyed. Today it's a pretty peaceful spot and a popular tourist destination.

We caught the ferry from Paihia for the 30-minute trip across the bay.  On arrival, we booked lunch at the Duke of Marlborough Hotel and had a bit of a wander around the village.

The Duke of Marlborough began its life in 1827 as “Johnny Johnston's Grog Shop”. The owner Johnny Johnston was an ex-convict come good.  He soon changed the name of his hotel to the Duke of Marlborough, at the time the Duke of Marlborough was the world’s richest man, so the name sought to bring respect, elegance and opulence to the “Hell Hole of the Pacific”.   The original hotel was burnt down during the battle of Kororāreka in 1845 and the second suffered the same fate 1931.  The current impressive building was built in Cable Bay in 1875 and relocated here in 1932.

The hotel is in a lovely spot looking out over the bay and lunch was delicious.

After lunch, we wandered up the road to the Pompallier Mission and Printery.  More History!  From 1842, Pompallier Mission and Printery was the hub of the Catholic mission in the country, its printery producing 40,000 prayer books in te reo Māori (Māori language), an impressive feat. The printery is now a museum and was well worth a visit.  We were even able to print a page on the French Common Press.  Also on site was a tannery for making leather to bind the books.  Our guide explained the process from de-hairing the hides to softening the leather and the eventual bookbinding. 

Back to the wharf for the trip back across the bay to Paihia.

Thursday, 9th May 2024 - Waitangi Treaty Grounds

 9th May - our 54th wedding anniversary.

Breakfast this morning at the Whare Waka Café (at the Waitangi site) before spending the morning at the Treaty Grounds.

A visit to the grounds starts with an informative guided tour with a local guide including the artifacts museum, a visit to the world's largest ceremonial war canoe (the 35.7-metre Ngatokimatawhaorua built for the 1940 centennial commemoration of the signing of the treaty) and an outline of the actual treaty process, finishing up at the historical Treaty House and the Māori Meeting House.  Here we were treated to a cultural performance beginning with a traditional Māori welcome followed by performances of Waiata (singing), Māori weapons, stick games, the Poi, and the haka.

The Treaty itself was signed at the treaty house on 6 February 1840 and is a document of central importance to the history of New Zealand and its constitution.  The Treaty is an agreement, in Māori and English, that was made between the British Crown and about 540 Māori rangatira (chiefs). The main purpose of the Treaty was to ensure that both parties to it would live together peacefully and develop New Zealand together in partnership. The Treaty does this by assuring Māori that their interests will be protected and confirming citizen equality.  There is quite a lot of discussion these days on just how successful that has been but for all its limitations it is a far cry from what has happened in other countries, Australia included.

After the performance, we spent some time at the treaty house - originally pre-cut in Sydney out of Australian hardwood and shipped to New Zealand for assembly on site in 1834. The building provided a home for the official representative of the British Government in New Zealand, James Bushby.  In 1840 the house consisted of a parlour, or living room, one large bedroom, a central hall, and a small dressing room. A separate building housed the kitchen, storeroom and servants’ room. In 1841 three bedrooms were added to accommodate Busby’s growing family.

We then wandered back to the museum area (there were actually two of them) through the forest.  The museum's main display spans the treaty history from the initial tentative contacts through to the signing in 1840 and included copies of the actual documents.

We were pretty much on information overload at this stage so despite the ticket being for "two days" we decided to head back to Bushby Manor for a rest via Haruru Falls.  After all, we were heading out again for our anniversary dinner at the Terra Restaurant.

The Terra proved to be a cosy establishment.  Quite small and a bit fancy without being over the top.  Jill had duck, Alex had filet steak followed by Orange and Almond Cake (Jill) and Crème Brûlée (Alex).  All very nice.

Friday, 10th May 2024 - Heading South (and Kiwi House)

 We packed up and left Busby Manor at 9am and headed to the Marina Café at Opua for breakfast.  Quite a nice spot looking out over the marina. So many boats in this part of the world which is quite understandable when you consider how protested the waterways are.  There is also a vehicular ferry from Opua to Russell for those who want to travel by car without taking a much longer route.

We took the long way to Whangārei, our destination for the night, heading for the coast through Sandy Bay, Woolleys Bay and Tutukaka before finishing up at Otuihau Whangārei Falls - a lovely walk along the cliff face and then down into the gorge at the base of the 26 metre-high waterfalls. Loved the humpy back bridge.

Next stop, Kiwi North to see some Kiwi.  The Kiwi House is part of a larger museum complex of heritage buildings.  We had a quick look at a natural history display but we were really there to see a kiwi - and we did (in his nocturnal house, well set up logs and plenty of undergrowth).  the single Kiwi (there was another enclosure but we couldn't see the kiwi) was very active and was actually fed by his keeper  (hiding the food in the enclosure) while we were there. The keeper also came out to have a chat.  Kiwi's lay very large eggs nearly as big as the Kiwi itself.  The chicks are kept at Kiwi House for two years before being released into the wild.  At that age, they are better able to defend themselves from cats, stoats and ferrets. 

At Kiwi House, they also had a display of a couple of rare New Zealand geckos - very cute.

Overnight tonight at Motel Six in Whangārei, after dinner down the road at Whang Thai.

I just love the Māori words.  The pronunciation of Whangārei is Fuhng-uh-ray.  Our Sat Nav was doing a pretty good job of the pronunciation but we didn't have a clue of what "she" was saying until we realised "whang" is pronounced "fuhng".  Our indigenous names are nowhere near as complicated.

Saturday, 11th May 2024 - Whangārei to Rotorua

Breakfast this morning in the Town Basin area at Mokaba Cafe.  Food was quite nice but the real find was the Hundertwasser Art Centre, next door.  What a building!! -  the conception of artist and architect Friedensreich Hundertwasser.  While first designed in 1993 the project proved controversial and was considered and rejected several times until it was finally approved in 2015. The centre opened two years after Hundertwasser's death in February 2022 and, no doubt, is still quite controversial - not a straight line in sight but lots of organic shapes, eye-catching facades, golden domes and coloured columns.  As it happens, the Art Centre is one of many buildings that Hundertwasser has designed around the world, including buildings in Austria, Germany, Switzerland, the US, Japan, the Netherlands, and New Zealand.  Born in Austria, Hundertwasser emigrated to New Zealand in the 1970s.

From Whangārei it was a long drive south (almost 400km), through the centre of Auckland, down Highway One, skirting around Hamilton, to our home for the next week, Club Wyndham at Rotorua.  We're on the north of Lake Rotarua about 14km from the town centre.  

After settling in we went for a walk around the resort.  Club Whyndham is right on the Ohau Channel which links Lake Rotarua with Lake Rotoiti.  We even have Black Swans at our back door.

Dinner tonight at the on-sight Restaurant.

Sunday, 12th May 2022 - Rotorua

 A nice lazy day in Rotorua today.

For breakfast, we decided on crêpes at Le Café de Paris.  Something a bit different and they were very nice too.  

We then headed to the Government Gardens.  What strikes you as you drive into the parklands is the Old Bath House Building.  The building was originally constructed in 1906-1908 and opened in 1908 as a thermal spa, offering medical and therapeutic treatments.  It was the New Zealand Government’s first major investment in the tourist industry.  In more recent times it was converted to a museum but has been closed since 2016 after being found to be earthquake-prone.  Restoration is expected to cost $80+ million and will be complete in 2027.  It's certainly a building that should be preserved.

The next stop was Sulphur Point in the Sulphur Bay Wildlife Refuge, just beyond the Bath House, to check out some thermal activity on Lake Rotorua's edge.  The 145-hectare wildlife refuge and sanctuary really lives up to its name. Magnificent steam vents, boiling mud pools, naturally hot water and the Puarenga Stream - home to an array of bird species, including the nationally threatened New Zealand dabchick, banded dotterel, and black-billed gull.  The water in the bay appears murky due to sulphur suspensions, is low in oxygen and is quite acidic (pH 3.5). 

We then headed to Kuirau Park where walking tracks lead to numerous areas of vigorous geothermal activity.  Amazing to see all this in the middle of the city. New eruptions do occur from time to time and in 2001 mud and rocks the size of footballs were suddenly hurled 10 metres into the air as a new steam vent spontaneously announced its arrival. In early Maori times, the small lake in the park was much cooler and was known as Taokahu. Legend tells us that a beautiful young woman named Kuiarau was bathing in the waters when a taniwha (legendary creature) dragged her to his lair below the lake. The gods above were angered and made the lake boil so the Taniwha would be destroyed forever. From that time on, the bubbling lake and the steaming land around it have been known by the name of the lost woman, although the spelling has changed a little.

A bit of shopping to stock up on food supplies and then back to Club Wyndham via the Te Puia Te Whakarewarewa Thermal Valley.  We had read that you can sometimes see the Papakura Geyser erupting from the roadside.  We hung around for a while but no activity today.  Our geyser-watching will have to wait for the Lady Knox on Tuesday.

Monday, 13th May 2024 - Hell's Gate and Te Pā Tū

 A big day today.  This morning we are off to Hell's Gate and then this evening we have a cultural experience at Te Pā Tū 

Hell's Gate - Wow!!  What a spot - Barren, hot, steamy (steam everywhere, from boiling mud, bubbling pools and even from tiny holes in the ground.  And it is so well done.  We had a map to follow with each feature numbered and explained.  The walk takes you through the native bush, often scared by the thermal activity.  Around every turn you experience something different - from cooking pools and steaming cliffs to the largest hot waterfall in the Southern Hemisphere.  All just amazing.

Like much of Rotorua, Hell’s Gate and the surrounding region are steeped in legend. Over 650 years ago a Māori princess named Hurutini lived in the area. She was married to a Māori chief whose lack of respect and mistreatment drove her to take her own life by throwing herself in a boiling pool. When she found her daughter, Hurutini’s mother let out an anguished cry “Auē tāku tiki nei”. This cry was shortened to Tikitere, the sacred name Hell’s Gate is known by today.  Thanks to its beauty and healing properties Tikitere has been a destination for spa and nature seekers since 1871. In 1934 noted Irish playwright, George Bernard Shaw, visited and cited it as inspiration to change his once atheist beliefs. In awe of the boiling mud and steam billowing into the sky, Shaw is said to have exclaimed “this could be the very gates of hell.” On hearing this, local Māori decided the English name for the area would become Hell’s Gate.  Quite a story.

We finished our time at Hell's Gate with a mud bath - their info says "once bathed in by Māori warriors, the mud and waters of Tikitere have soothed battle-scarred bodies for centuries. To this very day our nutrient-rich water relaxes the body, while our mud gently exfoliates the skin. Take the time out to experience this healing for yourself, with a soak in the sulphur pool and full body mud coverage. You’ll leave rejuvenated and fresh, ready for the rest of your adventure".  I'm not sure that it was all that but it was quite enjoyable all the same.

After lunch at Hell's Gate, it was back to Whyndham for a rest before setting off once again for our evening experience at Te Pā Tū .  Te Pā Tū itself is some way out of town on the road south to Lake Taupo so the experience starts at the Gathering Centre in Rotorau.  From there it's a short coach trip to the site.

The event is held in a traditional forest Pā (village) and is a feast on song, drama, tradition, and seasonal kai (cuisine).  The traditional hāngi joined seasonal Māori delicacies prepared with fusion cooking techniques. Cultural knowledge unique to each season is shared through rituals, songs, and stories across the evening as is the local, seasonal kai (food) - plentiful and delicious.   It was a fun night.