Thursday/Friday 3rd & 4th August 2017 - Mullumbimby to Dublin

Well, we've created a record! – our longest flight door to door, 38½ hours from the time we left home in Mullumbimby until we booked in at Cassidy's hotel in Dublin. It was a long way, not helped by stopovers at airports along the way.

Bradley picked us up at 8am on the 3^rd and dropped us off at Uncle Tom's where we were booked on the Byron Easy Bus at 8:30 for the transfer to Brisbane Airport. All straight forward with our only detour being to drop some people off at Roma Street in Brisbane along the way. We had been warned of long delays at the airport (owing to the recent terrorist threats in Sydney) but while there was a long queue at check in everything else ran smoothly and we had plenty of time for some lunch and a sit around before our 2:30 pm flight.

We are flying with Singapore Airlines this year which we both decided we favour over our last long haul flight with Emirates a couple of years ago. The 8 hour flight to Singapore was uneventful. A few movies (for Alex), the screen was too close for Jill, so lots of reading. We arrived in Singapore at 8:45pm (Singapore time) and after a long walk to our our next boarding gate, had quite a wait for our next flight. At that time of night (2 hours later in Australia) we were not in the mood for coffee and as we had been well fed on the plane were not hungry.

By the time we departed at 11pm for our 12½ hour flight to Frankfurt, we were ready to sleep which we did after another meal. We both slept well (as well as you can in an airline seat – oh to fly business class and be able to stretch out).

Arriving at Frankfurt (6:45 local time) it was another long walk to our next boarding gate and quite a wait to get through screening along the way. The German emigration people were not very friendly or helpful, quite officious actually and verging on the rude, which was unfortunate. Once through screening, we found an ATM to get some Euro and had a cup of coffee before another wait for our 10am flight.

The next leg was with Lufthansa and the plane an A321 was quite small and basic after the A330 and A380 we had been on. No gluten free option for a meal for Jill. It was only a 2 hour flight to Dublin and for this leg we had a window seat so were able to see that section of our flight that was below the clouds.

We arrived at Dublin at 11am and purchased some DoDublin travel passes which gave us free travel on the airport bus, hop on hop off bus, and local buses for the 3 days we're in Dublin. The bus dropped us off about 200m from our hotel, Cassidy's Hotel in Cavendish Row, Upper O'Connell Street. After booking in we headed downstairs to the bar for some lunch. Lasagne and Guinness for me and a curry and Cider for Jill.

After lunch we went for a walk. Picked up a SIM card for Jill's phone and did a little shopping in a market street. Then back to the hotel for a bit of a nap. We woke around 8pm and decided we didn't need tea. We kept ourselves awake a little longer before crashing for the night.

Saturday 5th August 2017 - Dublin

We were awake at 5am (body clock not being quite in sync yet). At 6 we went for a bit of a walk and then back to Cassidy's for an excellent (cold/hot) breakfast. 

In fact we're pretty impressed with Cassidy's – an older pub but the rooms, although a bit small, are well kept and clean – and we're not too far from everything. Having said that, most of the tourist sites are south of the River Liffey and we're on the Northern side. The Hop On Hop Off bus is just down the road.

We headed off to catch the HOHO at 9am - thought we might beat the crowds. Had a very entertaining driver on the bus. 

Hopped off at St Stephen's Green and visited the Little Museum – quite a detailed history of Ireland, before having a stroll through the park (St Stephens Green), a popular spot for locals and tourists to stretch their legs. What a beautiful spot. Hard to think that it was very different when it was the centre of the Easter Uprising back in 1916. 

St Stephens Green

From St Stephen's Green we walked along Grafton Street (upmarket Dublin Shopping) and ended up at Trinity College (via the statue of Mollie Malone). 

Our intention was to see the Book of Kells but as the queue to buy tickets was over 100 metres long we decided against it. Obviously need to book these sort of things on line. Magnificent buildings all the same.

Back on the HOHO we headed for the Guinness Storehouse which we thought would be an appropriate spot for lunch. Bad idea – it was so crowded that it was hard to appreciate. 

We did grab a fish and chip lunch but then headed back to the bus. It had just starting to rain so we appreciated a couple of seats downstairs as we wound our way back to Upper O'Connell Street.

Time for a nap before heading off to the Irish Night and Dinner at the Belvedere Hotel. A nice meal and an entertaining night of Irish Music and Dancing.  

Sunday 6th August 2017 – Dublin

Another early start and a walk before our 7:30 breakfast downstairs. It was then off to the HOHO to Trinity College. Last night I booked a visit to the Book of Kells to avoid having to queue up to get in. Hard to believe that one is looking at a book that is over 1,000 years old. And the Long room was just as impressive, housing around 200,000 of the Trinity Library's oldest books along with the oldest surviving harp in Ireland dating from the 15^th century.

Trinity College

Next stop was Temple Bar, one of the oldest parts of Dublin. After a coffee at a cute little corner coffee shop, we wandered around the cobbled pedestrianised streets. Have I already mentioned how lovely the hanging baskets of flowers are? – just gorgeous. Our next commitment was at Kilmainham Gaol at 2pm so we had a bit of time for a further wander to Dublin Castle before heading on.

Temple Bar and the River Liffey

The Gaol was a sobering experience, showcasing the harsh life prisoners would have experienced in the gaol. The gaol is rich with history having detained leaders of 5 different Irish rebellions between 1798 and 1916 as well as many petty criminals who were housed at the gaol before being transported to Australia as convicts.

Kilmainham Gaol

For something lighter, our next stop was the National Leprechaun Museum, a light-hearted look at the Leprechaun history of Ireland. We had a great storyteller who made it all fascinating.

The National Leprechaun Museum

From there we walked back to our hotel (great to see the use on trams in Dublin), past the General Post Office, another building that has a special place in Irish history – it was here that the proclamation of independence was read during the Easter uprising in 1916.

We were thinking about going to a pub for some live music tonight but have had a big day. Dinner downstairs instead and an early night.

Monday 7th August 2017 – Dublin to Kilkenny

Another early start this morning. Still waking up early. Not sure when the body clock will kick in. After a walk down the street and breakfast it was back to our room to pack our bags. 

A last wander around Dublin

Cassidy's called a taxi for us and it was off to Hertz to pick up our hire car for the next couple of weeks – A Skoda Octavia. We headed south, initially through the outskirts of Dublin but then into the country. We headed to Enniskerry and on to Powerscourt Falls, the highest waterfall in Ireland. Nice to be in the country again. 

Powerscourt Falls

From there we drove on to Glendalough where we had lunch in the pub and explored the ruins of the medieval monastic settlement founded by St Kevin in the 6^th Century. The buildings were all built of stone, including stone roofs and included a “Rapunzel type” tower.

Glendalough

From Glendalough we drove through the Wicklow mountains (and Wicklow National Park), through Hollywood and Dunlavin, before getting back onto the motorway for the run on to Kilkenny. We arrived at our Accommodation, the Glendine Inn around 4pm and after booking in drove into the city of Kilkenny. Very cute – narrow winding streets with medieval houses along each side. Had a wander around Kilkenny Castle before heading back to the Glendine for dinner.

Kilkenny

It's an early night tonight.

Tuesday 8th August 2017– Kilkenny to Carrigaline

After a walk this morning we decided to head off to Waterford and have breakfast there. And what a good decision that was. We asked Trip Adviser for the best breakfast spot and were pointed to The Granary. Good choice. This was followed by a wander around the sites of Waterford the home of Waterford Crystal. They still have a presence in Waterford, including a showroom and tour of the current set up but it's a bit sad that much of their crystal now comes from Slovenia. We were pretty impressed with Waterford. A nice city on the River Suir. Lots of big rivers in Ireland.

We then headed for the coast at Dunmore East, a pretty little spot looking across the water to Hook Head Lighthouse. Lots of people on the beach, swimming, sunbaking and hurling. Also lots of small sailing boats where people were learning to sail. 

From Dunmore East, we drove along the coast to Tramore. Now that's a tourist town – a huge amusement park that would put Luna Park to shame. Here we had lunch at Moe's on the Promenade and very nice it was. 

A further drive along the coast say us drive through Annestown and Bunmahon before arriving at Dungarvan where we stopped at a supermarket to get some supplies for breakfast. Our accommodation tonight is at an Air B&B in Carrigaline (just south of Cork). Arrived about 5:15 and were let in and asked to make ourselves at home by the neighbour – the owner was running late. When Caroline arrived we had a chat about the local area (and life in general). She's very proud of her daughter (who we met) who won a Silver Medal in the Paralympic Games last year in the shot put.

We ordered in Chinese for dinner (everyone else has gone out) – satisfactory but not terrific. Then lots of reading and working out where to from here. Decided to stay in the local area tomorrow and finish up at Cork tomorrow night.

Wednesday 9th August 2017 – Carrigaline to Cork

No walk this morning – a chat with Caroline instead before heading off to Crosshaven and 'Grumpy and Wise' for a nice breakfast (Caroline's recommendation and a good one). After breakfast, we drove to Port Camden a headland (with fort remains) which overlooked the harbour and across to Cobh, the Titanic's last port of call before heading off to meet an iceberg.

From Port Camden, we drove around to Cobh, a drive of about 45 minutes which included crossing the River Lee on a car ferry.

In Cobh, we went to the 'Titanic Experience', which operates from the actual 'White Star' office where 123 Irish passengers boarded the Titanic at its last port of call on its doomed maiden voyage in April 1914. The tour was quite well done and very informative. You were given the ticket of one of the passengers and at the end of the tour found out whether you survived or not. Jill survived, I didn't :-(

From Cobh, we drove to Kinsale where we had lunch/afternoon tea at 'Lemon Leaf'. We were in a courtyard out the back which was quite pleasant. 

After a bit of a wander around, a visit to the Tourist Information Centre and a Sorbet we decided to take a drive to a headland that would overlook the town. We ended up winding down narrow farm tracks and finally to a dead end. Was a pleasant drive all the same and we did get to look down the bay back towards Kinsale.

From Kinsale, it was off to Cork where we were booked in at another Air B&B. Was a bit of a challenge finding the place. Sean has an apartment at Rivers Towers, which, we gather is mainly University Student accommodation. The towers include a fascinating old building which looks a bit like Hogwarts.

Was a bit of a palava actually getting in. Sean's not here and we had a problem unlocking the door and parking the car. All sorted out in the end.

Dinner tonight is banana on toast and a cup of Camomile tea. We don't feel up to driving out again to find somewhere to eat.

Thursday 10th August 2017 – Cork to Killarney

No sign of Sean which seems a bit funny. But the bed was fine and his unit comfortable. After a hot lemon drink, we headed down town to Cork for breakfast - and a nice spot it was. Cork has an interesting parking system. Instead of pay and display which operates in most places they have what's called disk parking. You go to newsagents or selected shops and buy a disk – a bit like a scratch lottery ticket. You scratch off date and time and leave it on your dash.

After breakfast, we drove to Blarney Castle which is not far from Cork. What a lovely spot (and to think that I almost left it off the places to visit). The castle is only part of the experience here. Lovely grounds ranging from manicured lawns and gardens to forests that are quite subtropical in appearance – tree ferns of all things.

 

Jill had a wander around while I climbed the steps to the top of the castle to kiss the blarney stone. Had to do it. There will be no excuse for not being able to learn lines now as kissing the blarney stone is supposed to make you an eloquent speaker. There was quite a line up for the climb up the spiral staircase to the top of the 15^th century castle but was worth the exercise.

We spent some time wandering around the grounds – the poison garden, herb garden, rock close, sculpture garden, the list goes on.

From Blarney, we headed west to Killarney, a drive of about 90 minutes which we broke up with a visit to Aldi to pick up some supplies. Were staying in the Railway Hostel in Killarney tonight so have decided to cook our dinner. Steak with one of those rice and veg mixes.

We arrived In Killarney mid-afternoon. Booked in and then headed down the street, after booking our laundry into the Hostel. They do a load for 5 Euro which is great.

Killarney is very much a tourist town and was buzzing today. Had a sorbet (our lunch along with an apple and some nuts while we were travelling).

Back to the hostel to cook tea. Hostels are nice the way you get to chat to others – a family from France and a couple from Denmark, while you are cooking dinner.

Our room is pretty basic mind you – double bunks (our only time for the whole of the trip). But we do have a ensuite and an excellent shower.

Tomorrow we do the Ring of Kerry.

Friday 11th August 2017 - Killarney to Killarney (The Ring of Kerry)

Up and packed ready for 7:30 breakfast. We provided our own, GF bread and a banana added to their butter and jam. We were on the road by 8am on what looked like it might be a miserable day – Raining. It remained overcast with drizzle on and off all day – not the best day for sightseeing. It was probably just as well because if it was a fine day it would have been silly to try and complete the ring in a day.

First stop was Rossbeigh Beach after driving through Glenbeigh. We even found a spot on Trip Advisor that had good coffee. 

Rossbeigh Beach

It was closed and as there were no other options it was on to Cahersiveen, where we found a nice little French Patisserie. They even had gluten free cakes and bickies.

From there we drove on to Valentia Island and on to Knights Town where we had a bit of a wander around. We felt sorry for the kids who were trying to learn to swim (obviously part of vacation activities) on such a cold miserable day. They did have wetsuits on. Quite a few other vacation activities happening to.

Valentia Island

We then drove on to the Lighthouse which would probably be the most westerly lighthouse in Ireland. The lighthouse site had also been a fort in a previous life and was a very interesting site to visit.  In season you can see puffins here but not today.

Valentia Island Lighthouse

Back to the mainland and to Portmagee where we stopped for a very nice fish lunch at a pub. 

At the Kerry Cliffs, on a fine day, the site would be amazing out to the Skellig Islands but not today. The fog was so thick that at one point we could only see about 20 metres in front of us.

This made the decision of where to stop much easier as there was little point in stopping anywhere so it was on to Kenmare where we went for a wander to stretch our legs before heading back to Killarney.

This section of road passes over Moll's Gap (quite a climb) and then through Killarney National Park. We stopped at Ladies View (looking down the valley to the lake) and Torc Water Fall.

Tonight we are staying in a B&B in Killarney, Mystical Rose. The owner, Rose, is very chatty and spent some time in Australia some years back. A walk towards town for a pub meal and a pint of Killarney beer for Alex and we were ready for bed. Well, some downtime for social media reading etc.

Saturday 12th August 2017 - Killarney to Tralee (and the Dingle Peninsula)

After a full breakfast (eggs, bacon, tomato, mushroom, black & white pudding and we're at a real B&B) we set off to the Dingle Peninsula. There was a bit of rain as we set off but it was clearing by the time we got to Inch Beach. Rose told us to call in at the beach so that we could compare it with our Australian Beaches. The first thing we noticed was that there was a parking area on the beach and quite a few motorhomes obviously camping. That was different.

Inch Beach

A little further along we drove through Dingle (very crowded and we later found out that there we horse races today) and headed along the Slea Head Drive which compared very favourably (in our opinion) with the Ring of Kerry – maybe because it was fine today. 

Lots of beautiful scenery and at one stage we stopped to have a look at a Lios also called an early pre-Celtic ring fort, and a fairy fort or a rath – very interesting and similar to those we saw some years ago on Dartmoor common.  Very few visitors here as the site is not heavily marketed as a tourist stop. In short, the early Pre Celtic inhabitants of Ireland told stories of fairies and fairy forts. These structures were believed to be imbued with 'Druid Magic'. There are many legends associated with such places, and it's a fascinating look into ancient beliefs. The circular structure is well preserved and definitely worth a visit if you appreciate ancient sites

Around lots of cliffs and through pleasant little villages and we were eventually back at Dingle. 

We found a park and went for an explore, looking for somewhere to have a light lunch. Eventually found a lovely little establishment with a garden out the back. Just what we were looking for.

We headed off from Dingle towards Tralee via the Conor Pass, at 456m high the highest mountain pass in Ireland. From the top we looked down a glaciated valley towards the coast. Very spectacular. The road down the other side was very narrow and hugged the cliff. Lots of stopping in passing bays to let those coming up the mountain pass.

Bed tonight is at the Castle Hostel where we have a much better room than the previous hostel. Even a double bed. Steve, at reception, suggested we go to The Brogue Inn for dinner. Good choice but unfortunately we are not attuned to the Irish way of life as yet. Live music doesn't start until after 9:30pm. Too late for us!!

Sunday 13th August 2017 - Tralee to Cratloe

After a short walk, it was breakfast downstairs. Toast and banana again before heading out of Tralee still following the Wild Atlantic Way. We have pretty well been on it since the Ring of Kerry. First Stop, Fenit, where there is quite a large wharf which we could see when we crossed Conor Pass yesterday. 

 We were looking for a coffee. No luck here, nor at Ballyheigue a little further along. After driving around Kerry Head (not as pretty as Slea Head and the Dingle Peninsula) we headed for the car ferry which crosses the Shannon River at Tarbet. Quite a large ferry with at least 40 vehicles on it. It took 20 minutes to cross and cost 19 Euro. Once on the northern side of the river, we headed for Cratloe near Bunratty Castle. We had an Airbnb booked for the night and were also booked for the Medieval Banquet at Bunratty Castle.

The route took us through Ennis which was just setting up for a week-long festival. And it was buzzing. People everywhere and a large stage set up for music and dance. The official opening was set for 2:30 but in the meantime, we were entertained by a school group of a least 20 Irish Harps. It sounded terrific. Hard to believe it was coming from just one type of instrument. There was also a little Irish dancing and singing before we left. While there we also had lunch and finally found a coffee at Costa (brought back memories of our last trip to the UK where we visited Costa regularly as we were always assured of a reliable coffee.

We had a bit of trouble finding our B&B. Both the GPS app we were using on my phone and the directions on the Airbnb app (using google maps) on Jill's phone took us on Wild Goose Chases. Eventually, we found our bed for the night, showered and set off to Bunratty Castle and Folk Park for a 5:30 start.

We had a little time to explore the folk park - a glimpse of an Ireland of the past, a stroll from house to house around a charming village street complete with school, post office, doctors house, hardware shop, printers and even a McNamara’s pub! 

The banquet was a fun evening with quite a theatrical performance from our guests in the vein of medieval Ireland. The meal was interesting with only a knife to eat it with. Good that they were happy to cater for Jill's dietary requirements.  The castle itself is the most complete and authentic medieval castle in Ireland today.   Built in 1425, it was restored in 1954 to its former medieval splendor and now contains mainly 15th and 16th century furnishings, tapestries, and works of art which capture the mood of those times. 

During the night we were entertained by a fiddle and harpist as well as songs from the staff. It was all over and we were driving back to our B&B by 8:30. It's been another biog day.  Hard to believe that it is still light.