Sunday 19th May – Kennedy Range National Park to Carnarvon

Sunrise at Kennedy Range

Another glorious sunrise, first with the sun on the clouds and then on the escarpment behind our camp.  Got away at 8:30 and drove to Drapers Gorge where we walked, scrambled, climbed up the gorge for some distance.  The rock formations were amazing with a huge variety of textures and colours – and lots of plant fossils.  Quite a few pools too with large tadpoles swimming around.

Drapers Gorge

From there it was on to Gascoyne Junction (the last of the gravel for a while).  Took on a little fuel (1.88 per litre) and pumped up our tires ready for the bitumen.  Quite an easy 170km drive into Carnarvon.  As we got nearer it was amazing to see vegetables and bananas growing along the road (on the flat).

We set up camp at the Coral Coast Caravan Park and at 2pm headed to town for lunch – we were looking forward to fish and chips.  It’s Sunday isn’t it and all the eateries close at 2.  Eventually found a market happening with some food left – burgers followed by Mango ice cream.  We then drove out to the old jetty, built in 1897 which stretches one mile out to sea.  Being lazy today we took the tramway a cute little train which was originally used to transport cargo out to ships.  The $7 each ($4 to walk) goes into a fund to preserve the structure (all done by a voluntary organisation). 

The Old Jetty at Carnarvon

Back to the caravan park to do some washing and showers before we all met at the Gascoyne Hotel (the Gassie as the train driver called it) for a very enjoyable meal of fresh seafood basket and honey prawns).  Then back to Phil and Kaye’s unit to book sites at Cape Range National Park (on the internet) before retiring – well after getting this blog up to date, responding to emails etc etc etc.

Monday 20th May 2013 – Carnarvon to Quobba Station

It rained quite heavily during the night but fortunately clear when we woke up.  We left the camper to dry out and headed to town.  Jill went off to Woolworths to replenish supplies and I headed for Tyrepower.  As we were coming in to Mt Augustus the tyre dog on the right rear showed a slow leak.  Rather then fiddling around on the road with a half flat tyre we changed it.  The tyre man found what looked like an old nail through the tyre which we obviously picked up somewhere.  Back to the camper to pack up and then back into town for breakfast at a café – bacon and eggs.    Filled up with fuel, bought some prawns at the Crab Shack and headed out of town.

Bananas growing on the river flat

Drove out along the river past the plantations where we stocked up on tomatoes, corn, bananas, beans, eggplant and grapefruit.  We're on our own today as the others spending another night in Carnarvon while they get their vehicles attended too.  We will meet up with them at Coral Bay for lunch tomorrow.

On our way to Quobba Station (our destination for the night) we called into the blowholes at Quobba Point (nothing fancy today but on a good day shoot 20m into the air) and checked out the $5 a night camping area (very full and exposed to the elements – quite windy today).  At the end of the camping area there are quite a lot of fishing shacks – obviously a popular spot.  Interesting huge sign near the blowholes – “King Waves Kill”.  Apparently they have huge waves along this coast and there have been people washed off the rocks.

At Quobba Station we found a fairly protected spot under some Casuarina trees where we enjoyed our prawns for a late lunch. 

And they were delicious!

Went for a walk on the beach which was covered in pebbles, pieces of coral and clam shells.  

The sunset, while not very colourful was quite spectacular with bright rays of sunshine across the ocean and edging the clouds.  Nice hot showers at Quobba Station in a “new’ quite rustic shower block – cute!!!

Tuesday 21st May 2013 – Quobba Station to Exmouth

On the way back to the highway we again called into Point Quobba – much more spectacular this morning.  A fisherman on the rock was doing well with a catch of quite large fish.  Drove up to the Point Quobba Lighthouse where there are quite good views along the coast. It’s amazing how little tree growth there is along this coast.

Quobba Blowholes

Quobba Lighthouse

Called into the Minilya Roadhouse on out way north where a market was in progress – the same stalls we had seen the day before at Carnarvon.

Coral Bay was pretty spot – beautiful sparkling blue water with waves breaking on the outer reef – the southern end of Ningaloo.  The town is mainly caravan parks and other accommodation for holiday makers.  We had lunch at Finns – Thai fish burgers (Jill’s without the bun). 

Coral Bay

Lots of ant hills beside the road on our drive into Exmouth – they’re quite weird shapes, different to any we have on the eastern coast.

We had been told to call in at the Prawn Factory on the way into town but there was a sign out the front that there was no sale to the public as they now have a shop in town.

Set up camp at the Ningaloo Caravan and Camping Resort and headed to town to shop (Spelt bread) and prawns.  Retired to Marg, Arthur, Kay and Phill’s “chalet” for a prawn dinner on their balcony – this was after a very nice gelato at Pinocchio’s Restaurant (at the caravan park).

Wednesday 22nd May – Exmouth

Up early and on the bus at 7:30am with 3 Islands Whale Shark Dive – Ningaloo.  Jill isn’t diving (just along to observe) but the rest of us are going to swim with whale sharks.  Bus driver Alex and Meg told us about the local area on the way to the boat (Harold E Hold Communications Base, Aboriginal History etc).  At Tantabiddi Jetty we were transferred to our boat for the day where we also met the rest of the crew (Josh, the skipper, Tod and Nat).

Our boat for the day

There are only 15 of us on the boat so it’s not too crowded.  We are divided up into two groups and then each group is divided into half again.  The two groups take it in turn to enter the water and then the group divides into two with small groups of 4 swimming each side the whale shark.

Are we ready?

We are issued with our wetsuit (or stinger suit) and snorkel and flippers and head for a piece of reef where we have a dive to check out the gear.  The fish are very colourful but the coral is pretty dead at this spot.

As we head for a break in the reef and deeper water we learn about the whale shark (the biggest fish in the sea but fortunately for us only a plankton eater so not dangerous to humans) and how to approach them (3m from the side, 4m from the tale).  We also have morning tea and cakes/fruit.  Three Islands has a spotter plane up and no sooner have we cleared then reef then we’re next to the shark.

What happens is a group enters the water some distance in front of the whale shark and spreads out leaving a corridor.  The whale shark swims through the corridor and then you swim along beside the whale shark.  The first time you see this huge shape appear from the gloom swimming towards you is just amazing.  They truly are beautiful animals.  It’s also amazing at the amount of other fish swimming with them – lots of sucker fish (forget their names) and smaller fish swimming around the whale shark’s mouth.  I wonder whether the animal gets sick of the hanger-oners.  They’re a bit like flies buzzing around.

What amazing creatures

For the next couple of hours it was full on.  Jump in the water, watch the whale shark, get picked up, move forward, jump back in the water etc etc.  Regulations allow the boats to watch a whale for an hour but in our case we watched 8 different whale sharks in the time we were in the water.  At one stage when we jumped in to observe a whale shark another one appeared swimming up under us.  That was pretty freaky – but pretty amazing as well.  I lost track of time but it wasn’t until 2 o’clock that we stopped for lunch.

That's Alex at the front of the Whale Shark

Jill was watching most of the time from the captain’s cabin and while the whale shark does not usually break the surface she could see the huge shape in the water with all of us trying to keep up beside it.

They fed us well for lunch, even giving us a pack of gluten free stuff.

On our way back to the lagoon we saw a dugong but unfortunately didn’t get very close.  During the day we also saw dolphin and a tiger shark.

Another quick snorkel inside the reef before heading back to the caravan park for a gelati and snacks at the chalet.  We were so exhausted that we were then off to bed without any dinner.

Thursday 23rd May 2013 – Exmouth to Cape Range National Park

Packed up a headed out of town (after a little shopping, posting post cards, books etc and more prawns for lunch) and headed for Kurrajong camping area in the Cape Range National Park (where we’d booked sites from Carnarvon).  Set up camp, this time putting up all the awnings as the camping area is pretty exposed with no trees.  Also set up the shower since we are here for three days.

Camp at Cape Range

Prawns, fresh spelt bread, mayo and lettuce for lunch – delicious.

Went for a snorkel in the afternoon right of the beach.  There are quite a few bombies in the area – the fish are very colourful and even saw a stingray.

A nice lazy afternoon finished off with a beautiful sunset which just kept going for ages.  Quite a few clouds on the horizon which added to the display.

Friday 24th May 2013 – Cape Range National Park

Went for a walk early in the morning after watching the beautiful sunrise.  Walked north along a track and then back along the beach.  Saw quite a few kangaroos (what looked like two different species).  There are lots of little wrens around as well

"What are you looking at?"

After bacon, eggs, tomato and spelt toast we drove to Oyster Stacks, a great snorkelling spot not too far away.  Here you need to enter from rocks (a bit difficult) but then simply drift past the bombies to a beach.  The coral has a lot more colour, there is a greater variety of fish and there are bigger fish.  Also say some clams.

Oyster Stacks

From there we went to check out the visitors centre a little further along the road towards Exmouth.

Visitors Centre

Checked a few of the beaches on our way back to Kurrajong where we had another restful afternoon.   Another snorkel before dinner while Arthur and Phill did some fishing – nothing big enough to eat unfortunately.

Had a visit from some emus who did not appear the be phased by our existance.

As the kangaroo said "What are you looking at?"

Shared dinner tonight – Jill and Marg cooked some spaghetti bolognaise and Kay made a salad.

The cooks hard at work!!

Saturday 25th May 2013 – Cape Range National Park

A little bit of rain overnight!

After breakfast this morning we drove the short distance to Pilgonaman Gorge.  There were lots of black footed rock wallabies sunning themselves on the ledges of the gorge – gorgeous animals.  There was also a surprising variety of vegetation in the gorge.  There must be water not too far down.

Pilgonaman Gorge

Black Footed Rock Wallaby

Later we drove further south to Yardie Creek and walked to the beginning of Yardie Creek Gorge.  There’s lots of water here.  Apparently the only creek in the range.  On our way back we called into some of the other camping areas.

Yardie Creek

Back at camp we had a the emus back quietly going about their business of grazing on the shrubbery in the area.

Sunday 26th May – Cape Range to Karratha

Sunrise at Cape Range National Park

Set off about 8am heading for Karratha - just with Margaret and Arthur.  Karen and Mark headed for Millstream National Park where we would meet up with them tomorrow.  Phil and Kay had to have some work done on their car and were hoping to catch up with us at Karijini National Park at the end of the week.  The Prado is booked into Toyota, Karratha for its 20,000km service.

The drive to Karratha is pretty boring.  Not a lot of change in scenery.  Called into the Nanutarra Roadhouse with the possibility of having a burger for lunch.  A burger with the lot would have set us back $20.80 or we could have had a meat pie for $7.80.  We thought not and pulled off the road a few kilometres further on to have lunch from our own supplies.  Stopped at Fortescue River Roadhouse (much more reasonably priced) for a cool drink/ice cream.

Stayed the night at Pilbara Big4 Caravan Park.  Did a load of washing and had showers before heading out to a pub for dinner (Tambrey Pub).

Monday 27th May – Karratha to Millstream

Packed up and set off early (7:30am) as the Prado was the first vehicle on the hoist at Pilbara Toyota.  Looked for somewhere to have breakfast but a bit early for any of the cafes.  Ended up with a GF muffin and coffee at the Cento Shopping Centre.  Karratha is the largest place we have been in since leaving Roma – it’s also quite new and buzzing with lots of construction work happening.  It’s very much a mining town but there’s also lots of families around which is good to see.

The car was finished about 11:30.  We met up with Margaret and Arthur and headed for the port of Dampier.  It’s quite a view from the lookout where you can see where the salt and Iron Ore are loaded.  Was also interesting to see where the salt is produced – shallow areas that are flooded with sea water and then left to evaporate leaving the salt easy to be harvested.

Red Dog statue at Dampier

Salt waiting to be shipped at Dampier Harbour

Dampier Harbour

Dampier is the “home” of Red Dog and there is a statue of him along with lots of other information on the area, both history (much about William Dampier) and the mining operations in the area at an information booth leading into town.

Had lunch at the Mermaid pub overlooking the water – served by another skimpy (barmaid in underwear).  Jill and I shared a grilled groper with salad and chips – excellent.  The view out to sea was interesting with lots of activity of ships being loaded with ore and small tug pushing ships about.

Back to Karratha for grocery shopping before heading off to Millstream.  An interesting drive with lots of hills covered with different coloured Spinifex.  Also lots of patches of very red rock poking through the Spinifex.  Hamersley Ranges in the distance are quite spectacular.  Were driving along beside the railway line that brings the iron ore from Tom Price to Dampier.  Passed several very long trains – 3 locomotives and hundreds of trucks.  Most of the road was bitumen except for the last 40 or so kilometres which was fairly corrugated gravel.

Ore train between Karratha and Millstream

The Hamersley Ranges - Mulla Mulla in the foreground

Arrived at Crossing Pool campsite in Millstream to be met by camp hosts Flo and Jim (and Karen and Mark).  This is a lovely spot where you camp right on a large pool on the Fortescue River.  Devilled sausages for dinner.