Friday 14th June 2013 – Barn Hill to Broome

Walked south along the beach this morning – quite different formations once again.  Karen and Mark headed off early to have breakfast with a friend in Broome.  We had a leisurely pack as we were meeting them at the caravan park at 11:30am.

After setting up at the Tarangau Caravan Park (near Cable Beach) we headed for town and had lunch at Azuki (Japanese restaurant on the edge of China Town),   Went for a walk around this area of town – very touristy with lots of Pearl Shops.  Also tracked down a Bunning’s for a few bits and pieces and called at the shopping Centre.

At dusk we headed out to Ganthaume Point to watch the sunset.  Once again amazing rock formations.  Also an interesting light tower (rather than a light house) where some sea eagles had made their nest.  Checked out the dinosaur footprints (the casts) but not the real ones – the tides will not be low enough for that while we are here. Another beautiful sunset.  Bought some fish and chips from a caravan (shop) near the lighthouse – strategically placed to get the vehicles driving off Cable Beach (where they had been to see the sunset).  Back to the caravan park to eat at our leisure.

Saturday 15th June 2013 – Broome

Off to the market at the court house for breakfast (fish cake, chicken kebab and coffee).  A nice market and we managed to buy a few bits and pieces on Broome memorabilia.  Brought some prawns back to the caravan park for lunch.  Visited by some red winged parrots.

In the afternoon we planned to visit the historical society museum but found it closed.  Drove around a bit – visited town beach and went looking for a ‘swap and go’ gas bottle for the camper.  Most of the service station were out of the small size but ended up back at Bunnings where they had plenty.

Dinner tonight was at the Sunset Bar and Grill at Cable Beach where we were able to watch the sunset before our meal – and what a sunset, the best we have seen yet (very orange then red then crimson).  Lots of camels coming off the beach after sunset.  The food was excellent too as was the service – you can see why Lonely Planet and Rough Guide say it’s the place to go to see the sunset (Alan and Sue who we met at Barn Hill also recommended it).

Sunday 16th June 2013 – Broome

Walked to Cable Beach this morning before breakfast.  Noticed that the Sunset Bar and Grill is already buzzing.  As we were walking back to the caravan park we were passed by a group of camels presumably on their way to the beach (and another group a bit later at the caravan park).

After breakfast (sardines on toast – we have managed to use up most of our food other than cans so will need to do a restock before heading for Cape Leveque) it was back to the Sunday market while we waited to book in for our two nights at Mercure.  Went up at 11 but our rooms were not ready yet so dropped the camper off in the car park and went back to the market for lunch – fish cakes and chicken kebabs again followed by an ice coffee.

Booked into the Mercure, went for a swim, caught up with the other side of Australia through Skype and rested until dinner time where we went to a Thai Restaurant for dinner.  We were in a bit of a hurry as we were off to the pictures tonight.  The waitress advised that pad Thai would be pretty quick so that’s what we ordered.  It came with a cute egg net over the top.

Sun Pictures is apparently the oldest outdoor cinema in the world still operating (constructed in 1916).  We sat in deck chairs naturally and watched The Great Gatsby.  Was a great experience but the movie was a bit weird.  Was particularly interesting when a couple of plains flew low overhead to land at the nearby airport.

Sun Pictures

Monday 17th June 2013 – Broome

Went for a pre breakfast walk at Ganthaume Point.  Located Anastasia’s Pool built by Patrick Percy for his arthritic wife who bought the old lighthouse in 1922.  Also checked out the routes down to the dinosaur footprints (where we would see them if we had have been here at a very low tide).  The dinosaur prints date back 135 million years.  Shame we can only see the cast today.

Coffee and cake in China Town followed by a visit to the historical museum in the old Customs House.  This is a fascinating place full of displays of Broome memorabilia – pearling, the bombing during WW II and the history of the town. It’s very well done.

At 11 it was time to head to Willie Creek Pearl Farm for a tour of the pearl facilities.  Daniel taught us all about the silver or gold lipped pearl oyster (Pinctada maxima) – their anatomy and how they are farmed.  An oyster can be seeded up to 4 times with a larger pearl being produced each time.  Lunch followed – fish and salad and gluten free fruit damper.  After lunch we were on a boat to have a look at how the oysters are managed – how they’re attached to lines cleaned etc.  It concluded with a visit to their shop and an explanation of why some pearls are worth thousands of dollars compared to others which are much more reasonably priced.  One string of pearls on display was valued at $95,000.  Was also interesting to see why freshwater pearls (mainly imported from China and India) are so much cheaper.  While a salt water pearl is produced one at a time a freshwater oyster can produce up to 50 at a time.  It was a most interesting day and was nice that there was no pressure to buy.

Back to Broome and the supermarket to stock up for the next few weeks.  Apart from Derby we will not be seeing another supermarket until Kununurra (three to four weeks away).  That’s what we assume at any rate in reality some of the station stays might have quite good stores.

We thought we better do the drive on Cable Beach to watch the sunset (a must do in Broome????)  so off we went with hundreds of others to drive along the beach and watch the sunset.  The sunset itself was nowhere near as spectacular as the other night but it was pretty cute having all the camels walk past.

Dinner tonight was in the garden at the Mercure – barbecue chicken (from Woolies), salad etc.

Tomorrow we leave civilisation for a while and head to Cape Leveque.

Tuesday 18th June 2013 – Broome to Middle Lagoon

Breakfast this morning at Town Beach Café – Very nice as was the view over Roebuck Bay.

Breakfast at Town Beach Cafe

Back to the Mercure to pack up and then to the supermarket for a few bits that we had forgotten last night.

About 15 km up the Cape Leveque road we left the bitumen.  The track was very sandy and there were graders at various spots along the road.  Apparently the road was closed by the recent rain and there were many people trapped at the cape until they could get the road open.  Hopefully there is no rain this week!!

First stop was the old Beagle Bay Mission.  Established in 1890 by French Trappists, it was later handed over to German Pallotines who built the Sacred Heart Church, consecrated in 1918.  The very solidly constructed church is famous for its alter decorated with mother of pearl.  The mission lease was transferred to the Aboriginal inhabitants but there is still a quite large Sacred Heart school operating in the village.

Sacred Heart Church - Beagle Bay

Back on the main road and another 21km on we turned off to Middle Lagoon where we have booked for 4 nights - another 34km into the lagoon along a very sandy track (through water at various spots).  Camp is a nice secluded, shaded area near the ocean.  Set up camp and had a restful afternoon and a sleep.

Before dinner we had a wander out to the headland.  There are quite a lot of people here and if you want somewhere right on the headland they pack you in right next door to each other.  Where we are, just back from the beach among the trees it’s much more peaceful.

Middle Lagoon

Wednesday 19th June 2013 – Middle Lagoon

A little bit of rain overnight and quite overcast this morning.  Not ideal to charge batteries to keep the fridge going.  For lunch today we are driving to Whale Song café so that should put a little charge in the battery.

A nice lazy morning – bacon and eggs and ‘Otto’ for breakfast followed by a catch up on the blog and a nice read.  Went for a walk on the headland at one stage.  Apparently some people can get phone reception here but not on the Samsung Galaxy.  Jill’s HTC has a better aerial so had better bring it next time.  Saw some amazing bugs on a leaf on the walk and the rocks here are once again quite different.  More like a mud flow and in some places it looks like bubbles have developed and later broken.  As I’ve said before the rocks on the west coast are amazing and different each place one goes.

For lunch it was off to the Whale Song Café a little way up the track at Embalgun community.  This is something you do not expect to find in the middle of ‘nowhere’.  A well run café, excellent food (Jill and I had lamb hotpot), and a great view out over the water.  The owner is married to one of the locals how teaches at Beagle Bay where their four children also attend school.

Back to Middle Lagoon for another lazy afternoon and a lie down.  This is the life. 

Later in the afternoon we tracked down Abalone Al and his partner Ruth.  Mark Boston from Mullumbimby had told us to look him up while we were here and give him his regards.  He wasn’t too hard to find – the first people we approached.  They come from Port Stephens and visit here for some time each year.  Al offered top give us some fish if they caught any tomorrow.