Southern Africa

September and October 2015

South Africa, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Botswana, Namibia

Sunday 20th September 2015 - Brisbane to Dubai.

We flew out of Brisbane at 2:30 in the morning on Emirates EK433 after hanging around the airport from around 10 pm. We had been dropped off at Robina station at 7:30 to catch the last train to the airport.

Southern Africa Travellers

There are five of us on this trip to Southern Africa.   Regular travelling companions Richard and Jennie and Jennie's sister Wendy.   Waiting in airports is usually pretty boring but Jill and I did manage to grab something to eat - Whiting and chips and some very delicious sweet potato chips.

First stop was Dubai via Singapore.  We have a four-day layover in Dubai which should give us enough time to explore the Emerite.  The advantage of talking off at 2:30 is that you can at least get some sleep (as well as one can sleep in an aeroplane seat).  The plane, a Boeing 777-300 was well appointed, as they usually are these days and as well as some shut eye we had the choice of more movies then you could see in 10 years.   The meals, however, were nothing to write home about.

Brisbane to Singapore

The stop in Singapore 7.45 hours later was just a fueling stop but we had to get off the plane and then go through the x-ray machines again to get back on.   Talk about a palaver.  We did manage to get a decent cup of coffee which we could pay for with Australian dollars (change in Singaporean dollars).

Back on the plane for the final 7+ hours to Dubai.   The meal this time was much better. Fish for me,  chicken for Jill.  As we flew out of Singapore we noticed how smokey it was.   There had been reports in the media this week about clearing and burning in Borneo.   Apparently Malaysia is really coping it.

Flying into Dubai

We arrived in Dubai a little after 12:30pm.  After getting through customs we headed for an ATM to get some local currency (2.64 AED Dirham to the A$1) and then to Costa Coffee.  You never seem to be able to get a decent cup of coffee on a plane - always luke warm to start with. Costa was a bit like old times as we had visited the chain regularly in England some years ago.

It was then outside into the 42 degree C heat.  We expected it to be warm but it was still quite a shock to the system.  We had hoped to grab a maxi taxi to get us to our hotel but ended up with two taxis.  There didn't seem to be any explanation, other than they were different companies, that one was a bit over 30 Dirham and the other over 60.  I'm sure the flash black one did no better a job.

On arriving at our hotel we had to wait around for some time to be processed.  We then all collapsed into bed and woke up 4 hours later at 8:30pm.

After showers, we ventured out to get something to eat.  It is still hot at 10pm at night.  The hotel gave us directions to a shopping centre (air-conditioned of course).  Inside it felt like 2pm rather than 10pm.  Even at the food court it looked like 2pm considering the number of people eating - including kids.  After some shopping at the supermarket and a screw back in Jill's glasses, it was back through the heat to the hotel.

Nightlife in Dubai

Midnight at this stage.  Time to post the blog and then off to bed.

Monday 21st September 2015 - Dubai

Today was exhausting, in a nice way.  We had a date with the Big Bus (Dubai's version of the hop on hop off bus), so after breakfast, downstairs at the Skyline, we headed for the wharf area hoping to locate one of the bus stops.  We asked around but couldn't get a definitive answer with the half English half Arabic conversations that were going on.  In the end, we decided to catch taxis to the Deira City Centre shopping centre where we figured we would have better luck.  Both taxis were the same cost this time  :-).  After a coffee at Starbucks, we headed downstairs, exchanged our voucher for tickets and off we went on the red route (the City Tour).

The first stop was the WAFI, centre where we swapped buses, and then on to Dubai Mall.  The architecture in Dubai is just amazing.  So many tall building of all shapes and sizes.  No doubt the most significant on this part of the trip was the Burj Khalifa, the tallest building in the world.  There is so much to see at the Dubai Mall we will return.  For now, it was just a change over spot onto the green route (the Beach Tour).

This part of the tour took us to the coast past the Jumeirah Mosque and the very distinctive Burjal al Arab, which seems to appear in anything about Dubai.  It was then on to Palm Jumeirah, the man-made island in the form of a palm.   Right at the end of 'the Palm' we got off the bus at Atlantis City and had some lunch before spending time at the aquarium (included in the price of the Big Bus).  The aquarium was amazing, particularly the one huge tank which had a massive collection of fish, sharks and rays.

Back on the bus we headed first for the Hall of the Emirates (another shopping centre) and then back to Dubai Mall where we waited for some time to make our connection to the red route and then back to Deira City Centre.  By this stage, it was getting close to 6 o'clock so the long drive back through peak hour traffic saw us go from day to night with all the changes in colour along the way.

At the Deira Centre, we again visited the food mall for tea before catching taxis back to the Skyline.

Time for bed ........

Tuesday 22nd September 3015 - Dubai

Another huge day today.  Up for breakfast at 7:30 and then taxis to the Deira City Centre to catch the Big Bus at 8:30.  The plan was to follow the red route around to the old souk and the gold souk (markets) and finish up with the dhow (boat) cruise along Dubai Creek before returning to the Skyline to freshen up for our evening trip to the desert.

Everything takes longer than you think!  We got to the old souk and by the time we had done a bit of looking around and buying (Jill bought some trousers and the others bought some bits and pieces), we decided we no longer had the time to do everything.  As a result, we skipped the gold souk and went straight to the Dhow wharves to pick up our cruise.  The cruise followed the Dubai Creek for about half an hour.  The amount of water traffic was just amazing from the little water taxis to the huge yachts of the rich and famous.  The main attraction, however, was the Dhowes.  These rather flimsy looking craft carry cargo to Iran, Pakistan, India and Northern Africa.  The amount of activity along the wharves is also pretty amazing.

Taxis back to the Skyline for some late lunch before being picked up by Zahid from Dubai Travel and Tours who was taking us on a Desert Safari and BBQ Dinner in a desert camp.  Now if Jill had realised that this involved the 'crazy' dune driving that eventuated she would not have been a passenger.  There were 13 vehicles in our group and quite a few other groups as well.  All Toyota Land Cruisers and we certainly went places we would never think about going in our own vehicles.  No doubt it showed just how capable these vehicles are.  

Eventually (hurray says Jill) we arrived at the desert camp for dinner which was just delicious.  We were disappointed, however, to find that it was an Islamic 'significant occasion' which meant we missed out on alcohol (no big deal) and the advertised belly dancing (which was a big deal).  Not to worry.  Jill, Jennie and Wendy did end up with henna tattoos adorning their arms.

Home about 9pm and ready for bed once again.

Wednesday 23rd September 2015 - Dubai

The plan this morning was to go to the Jumeirah Mosque but at the last minute, we discovered that the tours were not available on Wednesdays.  At least that's what we think we worked out.  
Instead, it was off to Deira City after breakfast. for a coffee and then we caught the train to Dubai Mall (apparently the largest in the world - the mall not the train!).  No doubt the Emirates are giving the Americans a run for their money when it comes to 'big' things.

The train system is pretty impressive.  All fairly new and everything is air conditioned - station and train.  The train is also driverless.  On arriving at the Mall station we had about a kilometre (at least it felt that long) to walk along elevated walkways.  It's just amazing how much construction is going on here.  It's interesting that it seems OK in Dubai but if someone wanted to do something similar at home everyone would be up in arms about it.

Our first stop at the mall was the Burj Khalifa, the tallest building in the world (there we go - biggest again).  We took a lift to the 148th floor 555 metres above the ground.  It was pretty amazing to look down on many of the other skyscrapers - Dubai presently has 246.  The only unfortunate thing was that it was very hazy (something to do with the change of season we are told - guess it's sand in the air) and you can't see very far into the distance.  We couldn't see the Burj Al Arab or Palm Jureirah for instance.  Jill chickened out on going to the top and had a lovely peaceful time at the bottom.

The Burj Khalifa

We grabbed some lunch and had a look around the Mall.  Another huge aquarium tank - very impressive (51mx20mx11m), also an ice rink.  Apparently, they also have a very impressive fountain display outside but it was not operating today.

Back on the train to Al Rigga Street and a short walk back to the Skyline for a break before being picked up for our night cruise and dinner on the Rustar, apparently the largest wooden floating restaurant in the world.

Night cruises are a popular pastime along Dubai Creek as there are all sorts of craft out on the water - all colourfully lit.  It's all pretty impressive as was our meal.  After dinner, we were treated to some Arabic entertainment.  Sword dances and the Tanoura dance (an Egyptian folk dance) where men wear long colourful skirts and create some pretty amazing images by twirling around at high speed.  Not sure how it is managed without getting dizzy. This was in addition to a singer who had been entertaining us all night. 

The Rustar

Was a lovely evening and we didn't get home to about midnight.  This is exhausting.

Thursday 24th July 2015 - Dubai (our last day)

Up early again this morning to pack our bags, have breakfast, check out of the hotel and store our gear in the cloakroom before getting a taxi to the Jumeirah Mosque for the 'Open Doors, Open Minds' tour - Jumeirah Mosque is the only Mosque in Dubai that can be visited by non-Muslims. The morning was most informative although it was a little hard to hear and understand our speaker so I'm sure we missed a lot.  Was interesting to get a look at the world from an Islamic point of view.  As we had arrived early we went to the cafe at the Mosque and had a coffee made on camel milk.  It's supposed to be very good for you but we won't be rushing out to repeat the exercise.

We had to go through various rituals before being allowed into the Mosque, take off your shoes and dress modestly (covered head and arms for women).

Jemeirah Mosque  

After the Mosque visit, we were up for a real coffee and fortunately, there was a Starbucks across the street.  Coffee Frappes are becoming very popular in this very hot climate.
For the rest of the day, Wendy and Jennie went off exploring old Dubai (the museum and souks) while Richard, Jill and I headed for the air-conditioned comfort of WAFI Mall.  We were surprised at how few people were there and put it down to the fact that it is a public holiday for the Eid Al Adha festival.

There was a Souk in the basements under the mall which was interesting and Jill purchased a new carry bag.  Upstairs I also purchased a smaller backpack so that I have something to carry the camera around in without being too obvious.

WAFI Mall

We all got back to the Skyline (although our taxi driver didn't have a clue and in the end we had to direct him to the hotel - talk about the blind leading the blind.  We can't work out the address system here.  The hotel's address is Al Rigga Road which is the closest big road but several blocks from where the hotel's actually found on the corner of 37 Street and 40c Street.  These latter directions mean nothing to taxis drivers.  All a bit of a mystery.

We caught taxis out to the airport.  Jill and I had a very chatty Pakistani gentleman who has a family with 7 kids home in Pakistan.  He tells us that 85% of Taxi drivers come from Pakistan.

As usual, we had quite a wait around for our 11:30 flight.  Following a very ordinary dinner (why do airports aways have 'crap' food?) we made our way through emigration (Jennie getting the once over by security - the luck of the draw perhaps).  Dubai is a big airport as you have to catch a train to your exit gate from Emigration.  We also had to go through 2 exit gates which was a bit funny.  Through one, wait again in a second exit lounge before boarding through the second gate.

Another 8-hour flight to Johannesburg.  After our frantic pace in Dubai, we were all exhausted so did manage to get some sleep.

Friday 25th September - Johannesburg to Sabi River Sun

We landed in J'burg a little after 5:30am and were whisked through emigration (no third degree in South Africa.  Next stop an ATM to get some Rand.  The most they will dispense appears to be R2,000 which is a little less than $200, certainly enough for the next stop, breakfast (big breakfast for around $7.00).  

Arriving Johannesburg

 After a bit of a sit around Richard and I headed off to First Car Rental to pick up our vehicle for the next week, a Volkswagon Combi which suits nicely.  Room for alll our luggage even using the three rows of seats.

We hired a GPS as well so getting out of J'Burg was fairly painless, then the 380km drive to Sabi River Sun.  The expressways are pretty impressive, 4 laned, speed limit 120kph, but also highly tolled.  We went through about 5 toll gates along the way.

At Azlu we pulled off at a roadhouse for lunch and were surprised to find we were overlooking an area of wildlife in a large paddock - white Rhinos, Ostriches, zebra, a number of antelope including Elands and Cape Buffalo - even a couple of Emus of all things.

J'burg to Sabi River Sun

At Neilspruit we pulled into a Spur supermarket for supplies for the next week.  The supermarket was large, had everything we needed and was very reasonably priced.  We're impressed with the cost of things in SA.

The contrasts in SA are immediately obvious.  Well built infrastructure, lots of expensive cars and then driving past townships of humpies and other low-cost housing.  Large fences including razorwire around farms and buildings, guards in car parks of shopping centres and the roadhouse.

The other thing that's obvious is how productive the countryside is.  Initially grains but as we drove further north, avocados, bananas, citrus, macadamias, mangos, a vine that looked a bit like Kiwi fruit (but haven't seen those in shops) and lots of tree plantations.

We arrived a Sabi River Sun soon after 4 and were met at a security gate where we had to sign ourselves in.  Was a bit of a concern when they couldn't find our booking but eventually was found under Mr Richard instead of Mr Long.


Our Chalet is very impressive.  Two large bedrooms downstairs and a loft area also with two beds.  All well appointed and nicely presented.  As we were all pretty exhausted by this stage it was a quick bite to eat and off to bed.

Saturday 26th September 2015 - Sabi River Sun

Woke early this morning and before breakfast went for a walk down to the waterway below our chalet.  There are lots of waterbirds around as one would expect but we were pretty impressed to find lots of Hippopotamuses with their heads out of the water.  They're just amazing or as our grandson, Nate,  tells us Hippos are cool.  Also saw some crocodiles.

Around Sabi River Sun

We walked back up through the golf course to the Reception area.  Lots of people playing golf this morning (we later found out that it is a long weekend).  There are signs everywhere watch out for golf balls.  Near reception, there is a golf club/bar, bowling greens, tennis courts, laundry, swimming pool (one of 3 scattered around the resort), kids playground, convenience store, etc.  It's certainly a well resourced spot to visit.  Have spoken to some South Africans who come back here every year.

The reception area at Sabi River Sun

Later in the morning, we went for a drive along Sabi Road to Sabi River Coffee where they grow and roast their own coffee.  Jill and I shared a chicken salad for lunch.  Went for a little walk across a 'swinging bridge' to another creek - very pretty.  

Sabi River Coffee

The owner at Sabi River Coffee had a chat to us for some time - he was a wealth of local information - where to go and where not to go.  He advised us to forget Kruger tomorrow because of the public holiday so instead we will head north to Blyde River Canyon (the third largest in the world).

We drove back to Hazyview through very productive agricultural land. Pulled over at a roadside stall and bought oranges and avocados (very cheaply).  We called into the Information Centre at Hazeyview for some information and then on to the Shopping Centre.  The Shopping Centre was very crowded and rather grotty but we later discovered that this may have been because it was a Saturday on a long weekend.  It was also very obvious that we were the only white folk.  Jill bought a necklace at a stall, one of many in front of the Shopping Centre.

Back to Sabi River Sun where we went down to the water where they open gates, meaning the hippos can walk across the golf course to the river where they eat all night before returning to their deep water in the morning.  It was amazing to hear and see them calling to each other.

Sunday 27th September 2015 - Blyde River and Moholoholo

Today we headed off to the third biggest canyon in the world - Blyde River Canyon. We stopped at first at Graskop which was very well set up for tourists.  Jill, Jennie and Wendy were accosted by a man selling nuts and dried mango.  After buying some they were then approached by a woman who offered 3 bags of nuts (instead of the two from the man) for R50 (about $5). She assured them that the man was doing the right thing with his price but she was hungry so was selling them cheaper.

Graskop

We had coffee in a pretty fancy coffee and pancake shop (the latte came as warm milk froth with the coffee in a separate jug which you poured in).  Coffee was OK but nothing to write home about.  Graskop also had lots of silk shops and galleries.  We called into the information centre and although the lady wasn't open yet she was quite happy to ring the Moholoholo Rehabilitation Centre for us.  She got a recorded message to say that there would be a tour this afternoon at 3pm.

Our first look at the Canyon was at God's Window- looking down from a lookout over a very fertile valley (lowvelt).  

God's Window

From there we drove onto the Three Rondavels lookout - very spectacular round mountains across the canyon.  The lookout also overlooked Blydepoort Dam.

Three Rondavels and Blydepoort Dam

 

Moholoholo Animal Rehabilitation Centre was then a pretty long drive and we just made it for our 3 o'clock tour.  Well, we had a few minutes to spare for a bite to eat (which we had brought with us) - crackers, cheese, tomato, avo and oranges.

Moholoholo Animal Rehabilitation Centre 

Inside there was initially a bit of a talk about the animals - they're here because they have been poisoned, injured or orphaned.  After a close-up encounter with a Cheeter (which we could actually pat), our guide took us to several cages of birds - the Southern Ground Hornbill and then into a cage of vultures.  Some of our group fed some of the vultures.

After that, we were shown the lions, leopard and a number of smaller cats, as well as African Wild Dogs (now almost extinct).

The Honey Badger we then saw was a bit of a celebrity.  He kept getting out and picking a fight with the lion.   Initially, he climbed up cracks in the wall,  then he pulled up rocks,  made balls out of mud and piled them up, even climbed on his partners head.   There's now an electric fence around the top of his enclosure.

From Moholoholo it was a bit of a drive back to Sabi River Sun.   We had dinner at the resort and very nice it was.

Monday 28th September 2015 - Kruger (Day 1)

We set off fairly early this morning for our first day in Kruger National Park.  We went through the Phabeni Gate as Tim from Sabi Valley Coffee had told us that the road to the Numbi gate was worth avoiding.  Apparently, there had been some carjackings along this route.  

We were surprised to see animals straight away, a herd of Impalas.  From then on it was one animal after another.  It was an amazing day.

The list for the day included:
White Rhinoceros, Buffalo, Elephant, Lion, Giraffe, Chacma Baboon, Velvet Monkey, Impala, Bushbuck, Kadu, Warthog, Cape Glossy Starling, Helmeted Guineafowl, Southern Ground Hornbill, a tortoise (unknown) and a few other birds.  The Cape Glossy Starling was particularly impressive - a beautiful metallic blue and quite a gregarious bird hopping about the camps.

We called into  Pretoriuskop camp for a coffee - very nicely set up, good value and an excellent shop.  I bought a shirt.  Later in the day we called into Skukuza Camp for lunch.  We were on a lovely deck over the river with an elephant and bushbucks in view.  It was a bit hot by this time of day, however (40 degrees C).

We had to be out of the park at 6 pm and just made it after having our vehicle thoroughly checked out in case we were smuggling something through.

Was just an amazing day to see so many animals.

Tuesday 29th September 2015 - Sabi River Sun

Morning walk

A rest day today (sort of). A morning walk followed by golf for Richard and I while the girls lined up massages and had the washing done (R51, a little over A$5 and it came back clean , dry and folded)  Golf - the course is in beautiful condition and is quite challenging with lots of over water holes.  I was very happy to come home with a very creditable 30 points.

Most of us ate at the resort (excellent) and then a enjoyed a restful afternoon. Later Richard and I went into Hazyview to the Shopping Centre for stuff for a braai (the massage lady had said that we had to have a braai before we went home).  We'd call it a barbecue - you buy charcoal and firelighters and each Chalet has a set up for the braai.  We were told to ask the man next door how to do it.  He was very obliging.  We bought Braai packs (steak, ribs and sausages) which we had with salad and potatoes - yum.

Barbecue South African style - A Braai

Wednesday 30th September 2015 - Kruger (Day 2)

Back to Kruger National Park today.  This time we went in by the Paul Kruger Gate.  We revisited Skukuza for a coffee (Buffalo across the river and Warthogs roaming around) before driving down the H4-1 to Lower Sabi.  

Skukuza

We had heard that this was a pretty good route for wildlife as it follows the Sabi River.  Leopards are also often seen on this route.  The wildlife sightings did not disappoint.  We added two antelope to the list - Steenbok and Nyla and we had good sightings of Buffalo, Warthogs, Zebra and Wilderbeast as well as many repeat sightings from Monday.  We even saw a leopard although he was a fair way away and pretty well hidden (as the photo will show). 

There were elephants everywhere including lying down under trees looking as if they were dead.  Guess it was so hot for them as it's back up around the 40 degrees today. Many of the elephants were in the river keeping cool.  We also saw several herds of giraffe and quite a few different birds - Goliath Heron, Pied Kingfisher, Yellow Billed Kite, Red Billed Hornbill and Southern Yellow Billed Hornbill,  Saddled Billed Stork, Lilac Breasted Roller, the Cape Glossy Starling - the list goes on.  Even saw a monitor lizard but he's not listed in the information.

Along the way we had lunch at Lower Sabi.  Once again the restaurant was right on the water looking down on antelope and herds of Elephants across the river.  The food was fabulous and very reasonably priced.  We have had a number of top class meals in South Africa for under A$10.

Lunch at Lower Sabi

From lower Sabi we continued on south to Crocodile Bridge Gate.  It was along this route that we saw the Zebra and the Blue Wildebeest.

It was then a long drive home as we could not go back through the park (gates close at 6).  On the way we popped into the airport at Nelspruit to check out where we would need to drop off the car on Friday morning.

Home, Nachos for tea then off to bed.