Friday 2nd October 2015 - Sabi to Livingstone

Up at  3.30 this morning for the hour drive to the International Airport at Neilspruit and our flight to Livingstone.  Initially, our flight was a direct flight at the very respectable hour of 10:30am however somewhere along the line it was changed to a flight via Johannesburg leaving at 6:55am.  As we had read somewhere that we should be there two hours prior to flying we though we should be on the road by 4.  We needn't have bothered when we arrived at the airport the gates were locked and the guard had to let us through.  We then sat around at the Terminal for some time until anyone turned up.   Certainly gave us plenty of time to get the hire car into its allocated spot and find the office to drop the keys into the slot.

The drive from Sabi River Sun to Nelspruit had been quite uneventful. There was a surprising amount of traffic already out and about including a lot of police cars, usually travelling in pairs.   The only challenge was that the high beam on the Combi wasn't all that effective and we were a bit concerned about wildlife on the road - didn't see a thing.

The terminal at Neilspruit is quite new and very nicely built in an African style.  After checking in (luggage booked straight through to Livingstone :-) ) we just had time for a cuppa before boarding or very small jet, a 37 seat Embraer 135.  There was some concern expressed by some of the party at the size of the plane but as it turned out the flight was very smooth and we we're in Joburg in no time.

We had breakfast at Jacksons (same spot as last week) and then made our way to the Gate for our 10:40 flight.  By the time we got through immigration our flight was already boarding.  Both these flights obviously lack the importance of the larger international routes (although this time the plane was bigger - a  120 seat Airbus 319-100) as we we're ferried some distance to and from the planes by buses.

No entertainment on this flight although they did feed us - cold meat and cheese.  They did have a very interesting in-flight magazine, however. Read quite a bit about where we're going in Namibia AND found out that the tortoise we saw in Kruger the other day was a Leopard Tortoise.

We arrived in Livingstone at about 12:30.  The airport is quite small and looks as if it is still under construction.  It took some time to get through immigration as everyone also required Visa as (US$50 each).  We were a little surprised at the $US dollar bit as we had read that in 2013 when the Kwacha was revalued it was decreed that all dealings were to be in Kwacha.   We had also read that this had been revoked so were not sure what to expect.  Fortunately, we had all brought some American dollars for such an occasion.

Once through immigration, we fronted up to the ATMs to get some local currency to pay for a taxi.  Both ATMS we're not working but fortunately, the money exchange bureaus were.  We exchanged $US50 for about 580 Kwacha.

Then out to the taxi stand where the little man (there's always a little man) wanted all our details, where we were staying, what we're we hoping to do, did we have our combined Zambia/Zimbabwe Visa as it was the dry season and there was no water flowing over the Zambian side of the falls. Oops no we didn't! Our Visa was only for Zambia.  He advised us to go back to immigration as the combined Visa was the same price,  otherwise, we would have to pay another US $30 if we wanted to cross into Zimbabwe.  So back to immigration we went, where the kind lady changed our Visas - no problem.

Back out to get a taxi where the said little man started organising a van taxi that we could all fit in. He was also looking for a tip for the advice he had provided on Visas.  No metres in taxis here.   You arrange a price before you set off.  The little man said this taxi would take us for $US10.  Obviously, we weren't paying for everything in Kwacha (Not yet anyway).

Our accommodation for the next three days is Gloria's B&B, a few blocks from the main Street. We were met by their 8 - 9  old son Alan and then his Dad, also Alan, before being shown to our rooms by Angela.  We met Gloria a little later.  Jill and I have a large single bedroom cottage which it's very comfortable and clean.   Not cheap at $US440 for the 4 nights but nice to support a local family who in turn are employing local people.   A groundsman, a guard at night (not that we have felt at all threatened in Zambia - petty theft can be a problem says Alan, but there is little violence) several housemaids etc.  Jennie, Richard and Wendy are in a much smaller "motel" room (less than US $300).

Gloria is a youngish Zambian lady while Alan is an older (ex ) English gent.  They've been together about 10 years and have built up the business - 2 cottages and four motel rooms with another cottage under construction.   They have two children Alan and a baby and Gloria's older daughter,  Vanessa ( Year 11, hoping to do business administration or architecture) is also pay of the group.

There was no power when we arrived.   Apparently, enough power is a problem for Zambia and there is often load shedding to reduce demand.  It did come back on after a while which meant we could put our air conditioner on.  After a little downtime,  Alan took us for a drive in his Prado into town and showed us where the markets were,  the good places to eat, good coffee etc. He dropped us off and we headed for Kubu Cafe for a late lunch.  Coffee and a shared Tropical Chicken Salad with Jill. Just delicious including lychee and peaches.  While there we had quite a downpour and the power went off as it did in the supermarket door.   Was interesting watching the scramble. Doors closed on the supermarket, tables in out of the rain etc.  Not sure whether the outage was short or generators kicked in but things were back to normal fairly quickly.

After lunch we went to the supermarket for a few supplies.  The only thing we couldn't buy were corn cakes.  No sign of such things, in fact, nothing in the savoury biscuit line made of anything other than wheat (apart from rice crackers so we bought).  Fruit was a bit light on. We were looking for an avocado for dinner but they were as hard as a rock.

Jill and I walked back to Gloria's while the others took a cab. Zambia it's obviously not a rich country and funds do not stretch to well-developed infrastructure.   Some of the roads even within the town are dirt as are some of the footpaths.  There it's also no obvious rich as there is in South Africa.  Perhaps that's all in another part of town. The people are friendly and non-threatening although you do get hassled to buy stuff.  I guess that's understandable as they do need to make a living.   What does surprise us is the amount of rubbish lying about (although I'm not sure why it should surprise us)?  There's a huge contrast between the condition of the streets with rubbish everywhere and people's yards which are spotless.

After a late lunch it was a bottle of wine and crackers for dinner then off to bed.  It's been a long day. 

Saturday 3rd October - Victoria Falls.

Breakfast at 7am.  Eggs, bacon, sausage, baked beans and potato (instead of bred for Jill and I) served by Vanessa.  

After breakfast Alan took us on a bit of a drive on the way to the Falls - first to have a look at the Zambezi River above the falls and then to the Big Tree Viewpoint (a large boab tree with a platform in it where you can see quite a distance towards the top of the falls.  He then took us into the Royal Livingstone Resort (this is where the rich people are) and suggested that we come here for a coffee at 2pm and he would pick us up.  Just inside the gates we were met by several giraffe just minding their own business munching the trees.  The resort is pretty flash with decks built on the River.  You could go in boats to the top of the falls.

Alan then dropped us off at the border gate to Zimbabwe.  At this time of year (the dry season) there is no water coming over the Zambian section of the falls and we have to walk across the border into Zimbabwe to see the falls.

This is a bit of a rigmarole.  First you have to get an exit stamp from Zambia which is checked at the gate, then you walk across the bridge into Zimbabwe where you have to get an entry stamp on your passport, which is again checked at a gate.  There's quite a walk between the border gates and then to the entry gate to the falls and it was pretty hot at this stage so it wasn't that pleasant.  On each side of the border you have people trying to sell you stuff - cooper bangles, ornaments, Zimbabwe dollars (50 billion Zimbabwe dollars for 100 Kwacha) etc.  Outside the Falls gate there were lots of stalls and a group dancing.  Richard quickly got roped in to dance with them - of course he then had to buy their CD.

Entry fee to the falls was not cheap at US$30 per person but once inside you could see where the money was going.  Everything was pleasantly presented and clean and tidy.  We had a very fancy coffee which we paid for in US Dollars.  I asked the waitress about the relationship between the US dollar and the Zimbabwe Dollar - her answer "I wouldn't know Sir, we only use the US dollar".  Not sure if that applies for the rest of the country but it's certainly the case in Victoria Falls Town.  I bought a T shirt at the gift shop US$28.  It's not the best time to be in a country so tied to the US$ when we Australians are only getting around the 70c mark at the moment.

Everyone was telling us that it was very dry and there was not a lot of water coming over the falls so we were prepared to be underwhelmed.  This wasn't to be.  There may be no water coming over the Zambian section but there is still plenty of water coming over the Zimbabwe side.  At this time of year, instead of being one long waterfall there are several separate falls - Devil's Cataract, Main Falls and the Horseshoe Falls.  In the wet this is added to by the Rainbow falls (just a trickle at the moment) and the Eastern Cataract.  Because the falls are so long you do not get one view of the whole falls (you would need to be in the air for that) so they loose out on the sheer impact of Niagara Falls for instance, but they are magnificent all the same and it's great to be here.

To get back to Zambia we had to repeat the earlier exercise - exit stamp from Zimbabwe, checked at the gate then entry stamp for Zambia checked at the gate.  The only difference this time was we caught a taxi from one border gate to the other.  Five people 2 taxis at US$5 each taxi.  Too much.  OK I'll take you all so we all bundled in with Jill and Jennie sitting on top of respective husbands.

On the walk along the river to the Royal Livingstone we went past a market.  Jill had misplaced her hat so had to buy another.  Eventually we all escaped the market having purchased not only a hat but several figurines and other bits and pieces.  They drive a hard bargain.

Once inside the grounds of the Royal Livingstone we were in another world.  Green grass everywhere, statues etc.  At the bar we all ordered cool drinks (including the local beer -  a very nice Mosi Larger) while we waited for Alan.

As we got to the carpark, the giraffe viewing of this morning was surpassed by several zebras, again just minding their own business.  It never ceases to amaze.

We got Alan to drop us downtown at Cafe Zambezi for lunch just as a heavy shower hit.  Once again there was a blackout.  The Cafe is a nicely presented spot with a courtyard (not a lot of good in the rain) and little booths around the edge.  Jill and I shared a Zambian Platter - we had to do it:  A selection of kandolo fries, caterpillars, village chicken, beef stew and mbuzzi accompanied by nshima, traditional veges, chips and jollof rice.  It was all very interesting and some of it delicious but you probably only need to do it once.  Not too many of the caterpillars were eaten.

Again Jill and I walked back to Gloria's.  There must be real downpours here in the wet because there are very deep gutters everywhere.  On the way back we passed a Seventh Day Adventist Church and the congregation were just coming out - beautiful singing.  Everyone dressed up in their best. A couple of young ladies invited us to come a join them if we were still around next Saturday.

After another late lunch it was wine and nibbles for dinner and then off to bed early again.  We must be getting old.

Sunday 4th October 2015 - Livingstone

Breakfast at 7 again this morning.

It was then off to coffee at the Bakery and the the curio markets.   Being Sunday it was pretty quiet so the stall holders were trying extra hard to get us to buy.  After yesterday's experience we weren't to be persuaded and we didn't see anything that jumped out and said buy me!

We then wandered down to the vegetable markets but things were very quiet there with not many stalls open. A lot of stall holders go to church on Sunday we were told. We have been passed occasionally by trucks and buses full of people,  presumably off to Church and usually with the passengers singing.

Another coffee at Munali (which turned out to be owned by the same people as the bakery) and then back to Gloria's for crackers,  fruit and muesli for lunch before a rest up ready to be picked up for our sunset cruise in the afternoon.

We were picked up by Zambezi River Sunset Cruise at 3:30 and had a bit of a drive around Livingstone picking up others for the cruise.   The boat,  the M V Mambushi, travelled down steam a little way before turning around the tip of an island and then heading upstream. 

The main channel to the falls was pointed out but we weren't going there. We saw lots of hippos and some crocodiles (apparently there is something like 1000 crocodiles per kilometre but we only saw a few).   Also saw lots of water birds, some monkeys and a single mother elephant with calf. Some people on the cruise (who were staying on the river) mentioned that they had seen elephants swimming across the river.   That would have been cute, but it was not to happen today.

On the boat there were drinks and nibbles and later dinner (chicken, sausage and salad).  All very pleasant.  It's obviously a popular evening pastime on the Zambezi as there were lots of other craft of all sorts and sizes out and about. 

Monday 5th October 2015 - Livingstone (International Teachers' Day)

This morning young Alan told us he wasn't going to school because it was a teachers' day.  At this stage, we thought it must be something like our School Development Days.  Anyhow, we had decided to go to the Museum so off we went.  As we got closer to town we could hear a brass band playing and then near the main street we could see that there was a parade happening.  It appeared to go on for ages and when we asked someone what the parade was all about we were told that it was Teacher's Day.  



The parade was made up of teachers from their various schools walking down the main street carrying their school banner.  They were all in various uniforms with some of the women quite brightly dressed.  When we caught up with them we followed the parade to the Ministry of Education building where there was a rally happening.  We watched several performances: one school group singing "We are the World" to different words; a troupe of girls doing batten twirling; and what looked like a military brass band playing.  We left them to it once they got into some official speeches.

After coffee at the Kubu Cafe, we walked to the museum which was interesting but had no air conditioning and was a bit stifling (no photos allowed inside).  They had sections on the ancient and modern history of Zambia including quite a section on their independence struggle.  There was also quite a bit on the environment.

We popped into the attached craft shop where we bought some authentic Zambian crafts much cheaper than they were being peddled on the streets and in the markets - bought a stone box, another hippo, some salad servers made from zebra wood and a stone egg painted with a giraffe and boab tree.  Outside we did some business with some men wanting to sell us copper bracelets and malachite bangles.  It's interesting talking to the street traders, they are all educated but Zambia (at least this part of Zambia) has no industry so there are no jobs, tourism being their only opportunity for an income.  It's a bit sad really as they are friendly people but the continual hassling to buy things does detract somewhat from the ambience of the place.  If one had lots of money it would be productive to employ people to clean up the rubbish lying everywhere.  There is certainly plenty of that!

Back to Kubu for lunch (Tropical chicken salad again - just as good as the first time) and then back to Gloria's for a cold bath (we have a huge bath in our cabin), a lie down in the air con and a good read.

Tuesday 6th October 2015 - Livingstone to Chobe Safari Lodge

Today our tour with Wild Dog through to Namibia starts.  We were picked up at Gloria's by a 28 seater bus (for the 5 of us) at 10am.  The bus took us to the border between Zambia and Botswana. Once out of the town the country side was very dry although at one spot we did see some irrigation and some wheat being harvested.

At the border (a bit over an hour away) we had to go through the exit procedure from Zambia and then crossed the Zambezie River in a small boat to the Botswanan side.  There is also a vehicular ferry but it can take only one truck at a time and there are trucks lined up for kilometres.

We were met on the other side by another bus and were driven to immigration on the Botswanan side where we had to get an entrance stamp (no visa required).  At the border post we had to stand on a mat impregnated with something to prevent 'Foot and Mouth' and Anthrax from being transported across the border.  We then drove for about 45 minutes to Chobe Safari Lodge.  

After booking in we had drinks and lunch while waiting for our rooms to be ready.  Lunch was a buffet - very satisfactory.  Our room is huge, with an additional small room with double bunks for kids.  There's a varandah out the front overlooking the river but it's really too hot to use.  Fortunately there is air conditioning.  Interesting that there is a sign on the double doors opening onto the verandah warning against leaving the doors open as the monkeys will invade our room.  There are Barboons and Vervent Monkeys out the front - and a number of wart hogs around as well.

In the afternoon we went on a three hour drive into the Chobe National Park in an open vehicle (had a canvas roof to keep the sun off).  Even though we had seen lots of animals in Kruger the drive certainly had a 'wow' factor.  This area is the top end of the Kalahari with very deep sands and a teak forest (fairly open).  The Parks northern boundary is the Chobe River (with Namibia on the other side) and it was along the river that we spent most of our time.  The river consists of several channels with lots of islands and lots of green grass.  

In the afternoon we saw: huge heards of elephants with lots of young ones; southern ground hornbill; sable antelope; guinea fowls; stalks; ring necked dove; tree squirrel; buffalo; lilac breasted roller, water buck; crocodile, jakana bird; lots of other water birds; wart hogs; impalas; Kudu antelope; vultures; hippos; fish eagles; giraffes, Blacksmith's Lapwing; ibis, geese, egrets, baboons, red beaked hornbill; and to top it off a small (5) pride of female lions.  They were just lying around no more than about 6 metres away taking it easy and not in the least bit interested in us.  WOW!

Back at the lodge for a very delicious buffet dinner, including game meat and sorbet (Jill was very happy!!)  We also met for the first time our Wild Dog Tour leader for the rest of our trip, Ian.

We slept under our mosquito nets even though we haven't seen any mosquitoes.  We also put on our Bushmans 80% Deet when we went on Safari.  It is a malaria area and we are taking no chances, particularly when Jill and I have chosen not to take malaria tablets.

Wednesday 7th October 2015 - Chobe National Park

Up and ready to go on an early morning safari at 5:45.  Had to drive along the road a bit before cutting into the river.   Apparently, only a certain number of vehicles are allowed into any one area at a time.

Our list this morning included:  Buffalo, Wildebeest, Lion and Lioness, Spotted Hyena, Honey Badger, Zebra, Birchall's Starling, Zebra, Kadu, Lilac Breasted Roller,  Carmine Bee-eater, Giraffe and Red Billed Hornbill (commonly called the Flying Chilly Pepper as opposed to the Yellow Billed Hornbill being called the Flying Banana), the Drongo and Sable Antelope.
The lion put on a bit of a performance for us by trying to mate with the lioness.  She wasn't having any of it however.   I'm not sure if it was "not today I've got a headache" or "not in front of an audience!"

Back to the lodge for breakfast,  a buffet.  Lots of fruit and an omelette made in front of you.
We then had a quiet time before our afternoon commitment.   We were thinking of a swim but once back in the air conditioned room we both ended up having a nap before lunch.   The others must have had the same idea as Jill and I were the only ones to turn up for lunch.

Our afternoon cruise on the Chobe River set off mid-afternoon.

Lots of water birds this afternoon as you would expect including: Open Billed Stork; Blacksmith's Lapwing; African Jacana;  Fish Eagles; Egyptian Geese; a Spoonbill and various other storks and egrets.

Larger animals included:  the Lechwe (an antelope which spends a lot of its time in the marshy areas near the river); Water-buck; lots of hippos and elephants (including elephants swimming across the river); crocodiles; and lots of impalas.  This was all topped off with a beautiful sunset as we returned to the lodge.  Sunsets here are different.  Ours usually involve red clouds but here it's just that big red orb in the sky.

Dinner was a buffer again.  We'll have to reduce the size of our plates if this is typical of the food we will be getting the next two weeks.

Thursday 8th October 2015 - Chobe Safari Lodge to Namushasha Lodge

Up early again this morning for the drive from Chobe National Park to Bwabwata National Park in Namibia.  The first part of the drive was through Chobe National Park where we saw a couple of new birds, the Dark Chanting Goshawk and the Korhaan (looks a little like our Curlew).  

 

On arriving the border it was the usual process.    An exit stamp from Botswana then a drive across the Chobe River Bridge to emigration in Namibia.  No visa required just fill in the form and get your passport stamped.

From the border we drove to the town of Katima Mulilo where we visited the ATM to get some Namibian Dollars, have a coffee and buy some water. From there it was quite a drive to Kongola where we turned south to our accommodation fort the next two nights at Namushasha Lodge on the edge of Bwabwata National Park.

We passed lots of villages on the trip.  Small houses built with branches and then plastered with a combination of cattle dung and sand.  Occasionally you see an iron roof but by far the majority are thatched.  All have high fences made from reeds as a barrier to wild animals.  We saw lots of school children along the way on their way home from school and later to school.  There are morning and afternoon sessions.  School is compulsory and free for primary aged children and will also be free for secondary students from next year.

Namushasha Lodge is right on the bank of the Kwondo River and is a very pretty spot with different levels of the bar restaurant area overlooking the river.  It's remoteness, however, means that it is off grid so no such things as air conditioning or even fans.  Freida, the Maître de says that they should get power next year which will improve the situation considerably as it is very hot at this time of year.

After lunch and a bit of a rest we went on a boat trip on the Kwando.  The river is quite different to the Chobe.  No river flats here, just a river with high reeds each side.  It didn't take long to spot a large pod of hippos.  Rector, our guide, had to carefully manoeuvre our boat around them to continue along the river.  We saw lots of White Fronted Bee Eaters who were darting to and from their nests in the river bank - quite entertaining and very pretty although their name is a bit of a puzzle as they do not have white fronts.  Also saw the Open Billed Stork, Blacksmith's Plover and African Swamphen as well as, for the first time, the Tsebe Antelope.  Even saw a water monitor.  The highlight however would have been elephants crossing the river.

Dinner on the deck was very pleasant with lots of candles and cute solar powered Mason Jars with LEDs on the underside of the lid (the lid incorporating a solar panel).

Off to bed early under a huge mosquito net covering the whole double bed (almost a room within a room).  The rooms are at least cooler than outside so we were able to sleep without too much concern for mosquitoes.