Friday 12th July 2013 – El Questro to Kununurra

Problem at breakfast this morning.  When we went to get another carton of soy milk we found that they were all off!!!  Whether it was the corrugations or the heat we don’t know but our supply from Broome was no longer.  It does say “keep in a cool dry place” and I guess the car would have been 50+ degrees when it was sitting in the sun.  No coffee this morning.  At least not until after our walk to Emma Gorge and a visit to the resort on our way out.

Emma Gorge is also part of El Questro but is back on the Gibb River Road on the way to Kununurra.  We were away from Jabiru about 7.30 so thought we were clever and would get the walk into the gorge done before the crowds.  Wrong!!  Everyone else must have had the same idea because we joined about 100 others for the walk up the gorge.  Lot’s of rock hopping again but the reward made it all worthwhile.  Quite a lot of the rock was obviously part of the floor of the sea at one stage - there are lots of ripples and other patterns in the rock. Emma Gorge is quite stunning with a large swimming hole at the base of the falls (not a lot of water coming over at this time of year).  There’s even a warm spring feeding into the pool at one spot.  After a very refreshing swim and walk back to the resort we ordered that well earned coffee and a g/f cake which we enjoyed sitting in the grounds of the resort.

Rock formations at Emma Gorge

Next stop was the end of the Gibb River Road where we paused for photos.  It was then on to Kununurra where we checked in to the Lakeside Caravan Park.  Lots of shady sites but fairly crowded in.  It is the show weekend in Kununurra after all.  After setting up we headed for town for a bite to eat.  Mango Café and Gelati Bar looked pretty good but it was too late for lunch (It’s 2pm).  Coffee Frappes and cake would have to do.

The end of the road

Called into the ARB shop for them to have a look at the fridge.  It’s been unwilling to start when the battery voltage drops below 12.6v.  They checked it out and couldn’t find any problems.  It was on the highest cut out setting (11.8 volts) which shouldn’t have been a problem.  Changed the cut out setting to low to see if that makes a difference.  Think I might buy an extra cable and swap the merit plug for an Anderson Plug.  Have never been that confident that the merit plug and socket provide a good contact.  Having the fridge plug straight into the Anderson plug at the battery will overcome that concern.  Apparently there will be an ARB expert at the show tomorrow so will have a chat to him.  Also called into Coles for a few essentials before we do our big shop on Sunday.

Back to the caravan park for a swim and a rest before dinner at the caravan park.  Fish and Chip night tonight - $15.  Jill had the fish and chips and I paid an extra $3 for salt and pepper calamari.  All quite nice.

Crimson Finch

Saturday 13th July 2013 – Kununurra

Off to Kununurra Show this morning.  It’s quite an impressive little show but it’s very hot.  Bought a vacuum pump that takes the air out of bags of meat, fruit, veg etc – a bit like a portable kryovac machine.  Mark and Karen bought one too, it was quite a bit cheaper to buy two.  Also bought some mango smoothies (very nice), socks, and dried fruit.  Also picked up quite a few samples from the Ord Co stall – chick peas, beans, chia, pumpkin and had some tastes of rockmelon, watermelon, red paw paw.  I had my blood pressure tested at the Men’s Health stall and was given a free Royal Flying Doctor at for my efforts – blood pressure was low as usual.

The Kununurra Show

Came back to the Caravan Park for a swim (they have a very refreshing pool) before Jill and I headed off to the lookout at Kelly’s Nob to watch the sunset. 

Views from Kelly's Knob

Dinner tonight was the $10 camper’s dinner – chicken stir-fry with cashews.  There wasn’t a lot of it but it was tasty and only $10.

Sunday 14th July 2013 – Kununurra

Out the front of the Caravan Park this morning to be picked up for our Triple J tour, a boat trip up the Ord River to Lake Argyle and a bus trip back.  That gave us just enough time to clean the fridge out along with doing a bit of a clean up of the car – glass, mirrors, lights etc.  If there was a car wash in Kununurra we might even be brave a wash the car but the only one they have is not operating.

We were picked up by Rob who would be driving us back in the afternoon and delivered to the boat anchored in Kununurra Lake.  Kununurra Lake is the body of water between the two dam walls.  The diversion dam wall is just on the outskirts of Kununurra while the dam wall for Lake Argyle in 55km upstream.  The boat was not crowded today (about 20 people and would probably take double that) It’s quite powerful with 3 350 hp v8 outboards.  It needs the power as we get closer to the Lake Argyle dam wall we have to climb 10 metres in a reasonably short distance.

Jeff was our driver and one of the original Triple Js.  He was very knowledgeable – could tell us anything and everything about the history, geology, bird life etc etc etc.  There were quite a few unique birds and lots of freshwater crocodiles.  The ride up the river was very enjoyable.  Towards the end of the trip we pulled into a picnic spot (only accessible by boat) and had a delicious lunch – 3x meat, salad, red paw paw, cheese and drinks.

At the dam wall we transferred to the bus and Rob took us up to the top of the wall and then on to Argyle Resort where we had ice creams, bought crocodile caps for the boys and looked at the ‘infinity pool’ and the lake itself.

Lake Argyle

On the way back to town we called into the reconstructed Durack Homestead (the Duracks being the pioneering family in the area).  Reconstructed, because the original site of the homestead is now 60 metres under Lake Argyle so the homestead was taken apart rock by rock and recreated in the present site.

The Durack Homestead

Had a bit of a snooze on the way back to town.  Had a swim at the caravan park to wake ourselves up and then off to Coles for a major shop.  Apart from calling back here briefly on our way back from Keep River National Park this will be our last big shop until Alice Springs in about 10 days.

Baked beans, tomato and egg for tea then an early night.

Monday 15th July 2013 – Kununurra

A bit more of a clean up of the car today – a bit of a wipe down on the inside – it does let in a bit of dust and in particular a clean around the back door so that you could open the  door without creating a dust storm or getting yourself covered in dust.  Also put on some more washing.

We then headed for town – ARB to have the fridge chord attended too, Home hardware to get a gas bottle filled and buy a new fitting for the water hose, and fuel up at Shell (16c per litre off with a Cole’s docket.  As the initial price was 1.89 per litre it still did not make it cheap fuel.  Also refilled the jerry can (had used it on the run back from Mitchell Falls) ready for the run down the Tanami track.

All that done we took a drive to explore some of the Kununurra area – particularly the area under irrigation.  First stop was Ivanhoe Crossing – quite an infamous crossing of the Ord River between Kununurra and Wyndham.  The crossing is in an arc, is quite long and quite deep – and quite closed to traffic these days.  Bollards up at the entrance made it clear that we would not be getting to Wyndham this way today.

Ivanhoe Crossing

Next stop was the Hoochery where they are producing Ord River Rum and a couple of quite nice liqueurs.  Not being rum drinkers we sampled the liqueurs – very nice, and had an excellent lunch of grilled barra with pumpkin and chia salad.

The Hoochery

On the way back into town we called at the Sandalwood Factory.  The main crop in the Ord at the moment is Indian Sandalwood and they are just about to harvest their first crops.  The sandalwood will be sent to Albany where the infrastructure already exists to process the timber.  The native sandalwood is already being processed in the south but is much slower growing than the Indian variety.  Sandalwood Oil is very valuable and used in cosmetics, perfumes, soaps, incense sticks mozzie coils etc.

Sandlewood

Once in town we drove to the other area irrigated area to the south of town on the Packsaddle Plain.  Lots of Mangoes here but also bananas and small crops.  We called into the Zebra Rock Gallery and Jill bought a zebra rock ‘egg’ for her collection.  Another Mango smoothie and down to the river where they feed fish.  There were hundreds of cat fish and a few turtles/tortoises vying for the bread being thrown by the children.

Elephant Rock

Cat Fish at the Zebra Rock Gallery

Down the road we called at the ORIA Orchard where we picked up a paw paw, grapefruit, dried mango and bananas using an honesty system – amazing in this day and age.

Back to town for a bit more shopping and a swim before we went out to dinner at the Asian Cuisine Restaurant next to the Information Centre – was very nice too.

Tuesday 16th July 2013 – Kununurra to Keep River National Park

Packed up and on the road this morning heading east to the Western Australia/Northern Territory border to Keep River National Park.  Just before the border we called into the quarantine station to register the fact that we would only be in the Northern Territory for two days before returning.  By doing that we will not have to forfeit all our fruit and vegetables as we recross the border.

Just after the border we turned north off the highway for the 30km drive to Jarnem camping area.  There are two camping areas Jarnem is the one without generators.  We called into the Information Centre on the way – quite informative.

Set up camp in the camping area – quite dry, very hot (35 degrees) but fortunately quite a bit of shade.  After lunch we had a nice restful afternoon gearing up for a 7km walk early tomorrow morning.

Wednesday 17th July 2013 – Keep River National Park to Zebra Rock Mine

Up early and on the trail by 6:30am after a hot lemon juice and a banana.  If today is as hot as it was yesterday then we don’t want to be walking in the middle of the day.  The first part of the walk to Jarnem lookout was through fairly open country and it’s already quite warm.  The hills are made of the same type of 300 million year old conglomerate sandstone as Purnululu (Bungle Bungles) so are quite spectacular.  From the lookout you get a 360 degree view over the Keep River Valley (no water in the river that could be seen) and back to the hills.  The track then continued on to Nigli Gap where there was a lot more vegetation and shade among the beehive formations.  At the gap there is some quite faded indigenous art – several shapes including an emu.  Nearby we could see some rock wallabies up on the cliff face.  We presume black footed rock wallabies as they are found in the area.  Lots of birds to see also, red collared lorikeets and black cockatoos, quails, friar birds and others.

The Jernem Walk

We arrived back at camp soon after 9am for a breakfast of coffee and toast.  After packing up we drove back to the information centre for a quick look at Cockatoo Lagoon.  Not a lot of water at this time of year but quite a bit of birdlife including Royal Spoonbills, magpie geese and whistling ducks.

From there it was on the road to the Zebra Rock Mine on Duncan Road.  About another 5km east along the Victoria Highway then 5km south on Duncan Road and 5km into the mine.  This is quite a new venture set up by Kim and Ruth Duncan and is apparently the only place in the world where ‘true’ Zebra Rock is mined (what is called Zebra Rock in Coober Pedy being quite different – a sandstone).  The owners are doing it all on a shoestring and it’s all very low key and a bit rustic.  $10 each to camp, scones and cream for a donation etc.  At 3 o’clock Ruth gave a talk on Zebra Rock and showed us how it is polished.  Jill held baby Opal while that was happening.  We purchased a few pieces of rock (thought that was easier than fossicking in the creek where ‘millions’ had been before us) and a pendant for Jill.  Jill also lined up a haircut from Ruth’s English backpacker offsider, Hannah – and a very good haircut it was too.

Zebra Rock

In this day and age, when many of the ‘places to go’ are being taken over by the ‘big boys’, it’s great to see a venture like this getting off the ground.  It’s a lovely spot that everyone should put on their itinerary.  Although we didn’t participate we heard from other travellers that their sunset cruise out into Lake Argyle and its wetlands was also excellent.

Thursday 18th July 2013 – Zebra Rock Mine to Parry’s Farm.

Up early this morning to check out a very small pool of water behind the gallery.  Ruth had told us that this was a watering point for all manner of finch species and she was not wrong.  We saw our very first Gouldian Finch in the wild – how amazing.  Also saw our first Pictorella Mannikin (pretty special) and double bars, long tails, zebras, masked finches and quite a few other bird species.  It was incredible that so many birds were using this tiny little pool of water as the watering hole.

Pictorella Mannikins

Double Bar Finches

Long Tail Finch

Masked Finch

Gouldian Finch

From the Zebra Rock Mine it was back to the highway and to Kununurra where Jill bought a few things at the supermarket while I went to check out the auto accessory shops for some car window sun protectors.  With it being so hot we thought it best to try to keep some of the heat out of the car.  It’s all right while we are travelling and the air conditioner is in but that’s only part of the time.

From Kununurra we headed west a few kilometres and then turned north onto a connecting road to the Parry Creek Road.  This was a bit of a detour to get around the closed Ivanhoe Crossing.  The road surface was quite stony and some way along the Parry Creek Road we had a call from Mark and Karen that they had a flat tyre. Bugger!  I guess it’s not too bad considering the miles we have done and particularly the miles we have done off the bitumen.  We’re heading into Wyndham tomorrow so a tyre repair will be on the list.

At one spot we checked out a boat ramp at Mambi Island on the Ord River.  Lots of water here and from what one hears quite a few salties as well.  We didn’t see any.  It was not a bad spot to camp either but our plan was to have two days at Parry Creek Farm.  That way we have one less day of packing up to do.

The Ord River

Called into Parry Creek Farm about lunch time.  Set up in a nice shady spot (it’s very hot again today – 33) and Jill and I had a quick swim before lunch.  Another nice restful day – lazing around, sleeping for some, catching up on blogs etc.  Dinner tonight is at the station.  Local caught barramundi and very nice it was.  The station owner who was also the waitress was telling us stories about the salties in the area.  In the last few years they have lost three chooks, 2 puppies and a pet brolga.  They had to relocate a 4m croc last year.