Central Queensland (sort of!!) - July 2021

A few weeks to escape the Covid restrictions in Northern NSW.  There have just been new cases and another lockdown in Sydney so there are some restrictions now applying to all of NSW.  Consequently, to cross into Queensland a border pass is required, basically to say that we have not been anywhere in the greater Sydney area in the last 14 days.  Not a problem for us.

Our trip will take us initially to Lara Wetlands and then on to Aramac and Bioela before returning home.  You could hardly call Bioela Central Queensland but it is still avoiding any likely Covid Hotpots along the coast.

Tuesday 13th July 2021 - Mullumbimby to Goondiwindi

We set off soon after 8am for the long drive to Goondiwindi (about 450km). We stopped in Casino for fuel, then it was up the range to Tenterfield where we had lunch at the Willow Tree Cafe.  Picked up two jars of Tracey's homemade chutney while we were there - mushroom and apricot.

Had to pass through a police roadblock at the Queensland border at Goondiwindi.  They wanted to see our border passes (understandably) but apart from that, it was straightforward.

Arrived at Goondiwindi Showground (our camp for the night) at the same time as Arthur and Margaret, our travelling companions for the next couple of weeks.  They'd come a different route via Warwick.  Amazing that we had arrived at the same time.

After setting up camp it was drinks and nibbles while we appreciated our first amazing sunset for the trip.

It was then off to the "Lucky Thai" restaurant for dinner. And very nice it was.

Wednesday 14th July 2021 - Goondiwindi to Womalilla Creek (50km south of Mitchell)

Woke to a pretty sunrise at around 8:30

Headed off after breakfast and a decaffeinated coffee - apparently, we forgot to pack the "real" stuff.  Have to address that when we get to St George.

Stopped off at Weengallon Aboriginal Rock Wells on the way.  We've been here before but it's always worth a stop.  The wells form part of a trail of Aboriginal rock wells extending to northern Queensland.  Known in the local Aboriginal language as ‘Ngaru-gi Gali’ (to drink), there are six wells at the Weengallon site and depending on what you read they're somewhere between 3 and 12 metres deep.  We didn't check that out.

On through cotton country - huge bales, lots of cotton "fluff" along the roadside and very flat.  Some wheat as well, looking very healthy and very green.  It's obviously been a good season out here with lots of water in ditches along the roadside.

A shop in St George at IGA (surprisingly no Woolworths or Coles in St George) and a coffee at Delicate Cafe where we were able to sit in the garden which was very nice. 

Lunch also at St George in their parklands along the Balonne River - amazing trees, walking/bike track, picnic tables all done very nicely.  Lot's of water as there is a weir at the bridge just downstream.  Called it at the Information Centre across the road from the park.

From St George, we headed towards Mitchell.  Past a property called New Cashmere and shortly after a tall mesh fence and then a second property called Cashmere West.  Maybe a goat farm we thought and then GOATS!!!  Lots of them.

Stopped to collect some firewood along the road before camp for the night.  Lots of dead trees and timber lying on the ground - a reminder that this country is just coming out of a long drought.  Arthur brought his chainsaw along for the thicker bits so it was a load on our roof and some more in the back of his ute.

Camp for the night was on Womililla Creek where it flows into the Maranoa River.  Some water in the creek but none in the river - just lots of sand.

Another lovely sunset and a few mice about so we closed up our external kitchen.

Thursday 15th July - Womalilla Creek to Stock Route near Yandarlo (on Old Augathella Rd, 44km SE Tambo)

 

On the road north to Mitchell and then west to Morvan where we headed south for 11 km to Tregole National Park.

Tregole National Park

In semi-arid, south-western Queensland, Tregole National Park straddles the boundary between two of the state’s natural regions, the brigalow belt and the mulga lands.

The park protects a small, almost pure stand of ooline Cadellia pentastylis, an attractive dry rainforest tree dating back to the Ice Ages. Ooline has been extensively cleared and is now uncommon and considered vulnerable to extinction. Tregole’s ooline forest survives in the less than ideal semi-arid conditions.

Mulga grows on the ridges while poplar box woodlands cover the alluvial plains, brigalow woodlands grow on areas with heavy clay soils and Mitchell grasslands are found on the park’s undulating plains.

As the information says this is a semi-arid park made unique by its Ooline Trees. Was a lovely walk, some of the areas quite forested and others quite arid. Lots of different tree variety including narrow-leaved bottle trees. The park is well kept and well signposted. Told the rangers who turned up as we left that we were impressed. 

Back to Morvan where we had lunch by the billabong in the centre of town. Very brown water, very dusty and very windy (at the moment) but some amazing eucalypts on the bank. 

On to Augathella where we stopped briefly to have a look at the artwork on their water tank. We all agreed it didn't quite match the "silo/water tank" art we've seen elsewhere in the country. Maybe it's not finished yet. 

Camp tonight is on a stock route near Yandarlo. A lovely spot, plenty of room. Walked around a big (newish) dam with a windmill that pumped water to a huge tank which supplied water to a very long trough. Would provide water for a lot of head of cattle at the one time. Chatted to a few campers. a couple of vans near the "old dam" had their yabbie nets out catching yabbies for dinner.

Friday 16th July 2021 - Yandarlo to Lara Wetlands

First stop this morning was Tambo.  Visited Tambo Teddies which is getting a bit of a name for itself world wide.  Great to see such a successful little business in the middle of Queensland.   Tambo is doing a good job of reinventing itself.  Lovely old building, a nice gallery and quite a few murals on the walls.

On to Blackall and a coffee stop and a shop before heading north towards Lara Wetlands.  The Road to the Wetlands heads west off the Landsborough Highway 78km north of Blackall, 13km of gravel/dirt road which, by the look of it has been a little problematic for some in the wet.  No such problem for us today.  Not a cloud in the sky.

Lara Wetlands

Lara Wetlands is a 15,000-acre cattle station and is 41 kms south of Barcaldine and 91kms north of Blackall and includes a 13km gravel road off the Landsborough Highway.

The red sandy loam to chocolate soil country is mainly lightly timbered with box, sandalwood and gidyea. There are also areas of semi-open country. Native and buffel grasses are found on the river flats off Alice and Patrick creeks.

Water is supplied throughout the property from the Lara Artesian Bore dug soon after the station was established in the early 1900s and it is around this bore 'lake" that the tourist facility is based.

The Wetlands has an abundance of birdlife with the unlimited water supply.

There is a magnificent semi-renovated, six-bedroom homestead built in 1912 with sweeping verandahs on three sides.  The homestead is part of the Lara Wetlands Tourist Enterprise.

Lara can run 500 head of Breeders, has undercover cattle yards and is fully fenced.

Lara is not quite how we imagined it might be. There are so many people here all set up around the perimeter of the lake and a few back from the edge. We had a little difficulty finding a spot where we could set up with Margaret and Arthur.  A little backing in between trees did the job. Guess the main issue for us is that it is just very crowded. That said, the birdlife is quite amazing. We saw two brolgas fly in just on dusk which was a bit of a treat. More native hens around than we have ever seen anywhere. One with a nest in a log just offshore near our van.

Saturday 17th July 2021 - Lara Wetlands

 We woke to the sun rising through the window of the camper.  Up early for a walk around the lake while the sun rose.

A nice day of lazing and bird watching.

After lunch, we went for a paddle on the lake in a double kayak (provided for everyone's use along with bikes).  The lake is very shallow and we ran aground a number of times.  Also a necessity to watch out for submerged logs.  Thought we may get closer to the birds but in reality, we're probably closer when on shore.  Was a nice little outing at any rate.

No campfire for us tonight as there is a camp oven dinner every Saturday night put on by Lara ($25 per head) - ham and pea soup, chicken drumsticks and vegetables and damper with jam and cream.  Not all that exciting but saves cooking.  You would think it would have been beef being on a beef station but there you go.  Over dinner, we were entertained by 2 singers who had come all the way from Marlboro.  A pleasant night out.

Sunday July 18th 2021 - Lara Wetlands

 Margaret and Arthur are having a little difficulty with their electrics.  They have a new lithium battery that needs to be charged up using 240v so are heading off this morning to Barcaldine showground to plug in.

More walking around the lake, photographing birds and watching the native hen (well two actually) come and go from the nest in the log just off shore - taking straw out to the nest and calling each other.  Quite cute.

Washing day today - in the bucket (with the agitator).  The clothesline is up and washing pegged out.  There's a bit of a breeze and sunshine.  

Contemplated going in the hot pool but decided that there were too many people in there in these Covid times.  More walks around the lake.

Beed stew tonight in the camp oven on the gas.  Lots of cutting up etc.  Very yummy - potatoes, sweet potatoes, carrots, surprise peas and red wine with stewing steak from the Tambo butcher.

Monday 19th July - Lara Wetlands to Lake Dunn

Bye Lara Wetlands - a lovely lazy three days

Off to Barcaldine this morning to meet up again with Margaret and Arthur.  Coffee and cake at the Ridgy Didge Cafe and then to Aramac and on to Lake Dunn along the first leg of the Lake Dunn Sculpture Trail which creates a triangle between Aramac, Lake Dunn and Jericho.  We've decided to do two sides of the triangle and then head further east towards Emerald.  It'll mean we will miss out on Gray Rock and Horsetailer's Gorge but you have to keep some things for another time.

Lake Dunn Sculpture Trail

The Lake Dunn Sculpture Trail is a 200-kilometre art trail along the triangle of roads between Aramac, Lake Dunn and Jericho. Beginning northeast of Aramac, it’s well worth seeking out and will give you a very enjoyable full-day drive, or a few days exploring if you wish to experience the trail and local region in more detail.

Created by local artist, Milynda Rogers, the Lake Dunn Sculpture Trail features 40 unique sculptures to hunt out and enjoy. These incredible and diverse sculptures are dotted through the countryside on the road to Lake Dunn and Rangers Valley.

Each sculpture is an artwork that depicts an animal or aspect of Outback life, such as jackaroos on horseback, a koala in a gum tree and an emu and her chicks. Milynda created these incredible and diverse sculptures from rusting recycled and upcycled odds and ends generally sourced from the local area.

Along the Lake Dunn Sculpture Trail you’ll also find the renowned Gray Rock historical site, the wonder of Horsetailer’s Gorge, the mystical Healing Circle and the glorious freshwater Lake Dunn. If you have the time, make sure you also search for “Where’s Wally”, a firm childhood favourite.

We were amazed by the sculptures.  Made from barb wire and all sorts of other metal and discarded tools that you might find lying around a rural property.  Milynda lives on one of the stations in the area and must get everyone to drop off their "junk" at her place.  We were very impressed.

We might have missed out on Gray Rock and Horsetailer's Gorge on our route but we did get to the White Station Healing Circle located about halfway along the road from Aramac to Lake Dunn.  The circle is reputedly connected to other healing circles in Japan, Tibet, Madagascar, Peru, Turkey and the USA. When the visitor steps into the centre they are supposed to be connected to the energies of all seven circles. The circle is used for prayer, meditation and healing of the mind, body and soul. 

On to camp the night at Lake Dunn ($10 for an unpowered site).  Most of the lakeshore is taken up by powered sites and at this time of day, the unpowered spots are also taken so we're back a bit from the lake edge.  Lake Dunn is a huge freshwater lake that's 3.21 km long and 1.6 km wide.  It was named after James Dunn, who was a head stockman at Mt Cornish Station, who discovered it when he was looking for a mob of cattle. Very full at the moment with lots of "living" (at the moment) trees just in from the water's edge. Clean toilets and showers in a brick building with a kiosk at one end.  Reviews say that they have fish and chips on a Friday Night.  Probably not open at other times. The lake is popular with locals who use it for swimming, water-skiing, windsurfing, sailing, camping and for picnics. Apparently, it's home to over 80 different species of birds (not that we saw too many) and an excellent fishing spot for Golden Perch (yellow belly) and Black Bream. In addition to camping facilities, there are a few "rustic" huts that can be hired (and a few private ones by the look).  Lots of red river gums and coolibahs along the lakeshore.

Tuesday 20th July 2021 - Lake Dunn to Bogantungan

An early walk this morning around the campsite and then it was back on the Sculpture trail towards Jericho.  Just near where we were camped there was an old boiler that had us puzzled as to what it might have been used for.  We had asked the lady last night, when she came around to collect camp fees, but she didn't know.  It remains a mystery.

The first section of the trail from Aramac to Lake Dunn was bitumen but today we're on gravel, quite good gravel though.  Once again the sculptures were pretty amazing and we even found Wally.

It's interesting how the countryside changes as you travel through.  At one section there were termite hills everywhere.

We had decided on lunch at Jericho, but although they had a nice neat little park there were no shops to be found that could provide lunch, not even a coffee.

The next option was Alpha which proved almost as problematic.  The bakery had just run out of pies and their coffee machine was broken.  The golf club was suggested but when we found it there was no one in sight.  Back to town to the servo where we did end up with a wrap.  No coffee though.

Camp tonight was at Bogantungan in a park near the railway station.  Quite a lot of people here already but we found room for the two of us to set up.  Went for a walk along the railway line to the railway bridge which replaced the previous bridge responsible for Queensland's worst train crash.

The disaster occurred at 2:30am on February 26, 1960 when the train was passing over the bridge above the flooded Medway Creek. The pylons of the bridge had been severely damaged by the impact from a 12-tonne gum tree that had been swept downstream in the floodwaters. As the train crossed the creek, the bridge collapsed causing the two steam locomotives and three sleeping cars to fall 7.6 metres into the flooded creek. Seven people were killed including the driver, the fireman and a conductor as well as four passengers, including two children.  Another 43 people were injured in the accident.  A special train was organised to travel to the accident scene to assist. Emerald doctor, Charles Whitchurch, and a flying doctor from Mount Isa attended the scene.

There's a nice little memorial to the disaster at the station.

Wednesday 21st July 2021 - Bogantungan to Dingo

Bogantungan to Emerald after a walk down across the creek and back along the highway - and using the book exchange at a house across the road from the park.

After leaving Bogantungan we started to leave the 'flat' country and headed up into Queensland's Central Highlands.

We called into the Information Centre at Emerald to pick up some information on Blackdown Tabletops National Park, our destination tomorrow.  It was then off to Emerald Shopping Centre for coffee, cake and fuel.

Emerald

We decided to have lunch at Blackwater.  Just prior to the town Wikicamps told us of 'Old Cars In a Paddock' just off the road.  We called in and were impressed.  No signage or reference to why it is there but just lots of old cars along the road outside a business.  Couldn't even work out what the business was.  There you go!

Back on the road and lunch at the Lions' Park in Blackwater.  Thought about calling in at the Coal Centre but decided not today.  Blackwater considers itself the Coal Capital of Queensland and is in the coal area called the Bowen Basin, part of the huge expansion of coal mining (along with the Galilee Basin further west) that has so divided the Australian community on jobs versus the environment.  Not a lot of evidence of mining just here, apart from the mine vehicles running around and the coal trains on the railway line - and I guess the affluence that mining has brought to the area compared to the smaller towns west of Emerald - Jericho and Alpha (which I guess will be hoping for similar affluence from the development of Galilee Basin).  You can see why it's such a divide.  Benefits now compared to the damage we are doing to the environment.  Global warming is a reality and when are we going to do something about adressing the problem so that we leave a livable planet for future generations?  Big decisions to be made.

A nice park for lunch.  Very tidy!  Lots of flags flying. Apparently one of the largest displays of flags in the world, each flag being a representative of one of the 37 nationalities who have laboured together to establish the district’s coal industry. 

On to Dingo to a cute, "low-key" little caravan park run by Jennie who puts on a happy hour around a campfire most nights where she entertains with 60s/70s songs.  We must have nearly had everyone camped in the park in attendance - some ordering pizzas from the pizza van just down the road.

We did a load of washing, $4 a load pay at the office.  Ditto $4 for the dryer.

Thursday 22nd July 2021 - Dingo (Blackdown Tablelands National Park)

Up earlyish, a quickish breakfast and off to Blackdown Tablelands National Park - all in M&A's vehicle as it's a "no go" area for caravans with steep and narrow sections of road so it's a day trip.  In reality to do the park justice you would need at least two days and there is a camping area (Munall camping area) in the park.  For us we'll do the walk to the bottom of Guddo Gumoo Falls and the Goon Goon Dina walk.  We'll miss out on a number of other walks and the 19km 4WD loop track.

Blackdown Tablelands National Park

Rising abruptly above the surrounding dry plains, Blackdown Tableland protects spectacular sandstone scenery with gorges and waterfalls. It lies at the north-east edge of the central Queensland sandstone belt.

The park supports diverse plant communities including heathlands, dry eucalypt forests and moist pockets of ferns, mosses and orchids. Being elevated, the tableland is often cooler and moister than nearby plains. Its isolation means plants and animals that are found nowhere else thrive here. These include the Blackdown stringybark, a macrozamia, red bottlebrush, the Blackdown “monster” (a type of underground cricket) and a Christmas beetle.

This is the traditional home of the Ghungalu people, who have visited this place for thousands of years and left behind rock art, vivid reminders of their special culture.

Gudda Gumoo (Rainbow Falls) lookout track and Gudda Gumoo gorge track 

On the 3.6 kilometre return walk to the Gudda Gummoo lookout, walk through stringybarks and spiky grasstrees. Gaze across the gorge to distant plains and hills and learn about the significance of Moonda Gudda to the Ghungalu people. Retrace your steps, alternatively continue onto the gorge walk.

To complete the gorge walk, continue on another 400 metres to Gudda Gumoo gorge, where damp fern fronds glisten and colourful birds come to cool off. See water spill over sandstone ledges as it flows down and through the gorge.

Moderate fitness is required for the lookout walk, which involves short, steep slopes, some stairs and loose surfaces. A higher level fitness is required to complete the more difficult gorge walk, which 240 stairs leading to the base of the waterfall and loose surfaces. Allow 1.5 hours for the lookout return walk (or 2 hours for the gorge return walk).

Goon Goon Dhina (Cultural Circuit)

The Goon Goon Dhina (Culture Circuit) Track is located within the Blackdown Tableland National Park. In addition to the evidence of early european use of this land (remains of a stock yard and hut) this track features the life of the traditional Ghungalu people including their art work on rock faces along the track. The park supports diverse plant communities including heathlands, dry eucalypt forests and moist pockets of ferns, mosses and orchids. Being elevated, the tableland is often cooler and moister than nearby plains. Its isolation means plants and animals that are found nowhere else thrive here. 

Our first stop was at Yaddamen Dhina (Horseshoe) lookout just inside the border of the park (and where the bitumen ends).  Quite a spectacular view to the north over the valley 500m below.   The Blackdown wattle was out and was just amazing - very bright yellow and quite large "balls".  

Further into the park, we completed the Gudda Gumoo (Rainbow Falls walk).  Here the wattle (several varieties) was everywhere.  For this time of year, we were treated to quite a display of wildflowers in addition to the wattle - plenty of banksias, hovea and hardenbergia.  

The walk to the waterfall was great with 240 steps for the final section down into the gorge.  It would have been lovely to have a swim on a hot day but it's a bit cool for that today.  The water is crystal clear and although there is not a lot of water coming over the falls there is still plenty of water in pools.

Next stop was the Goon Goon Dhina (Culture Circuit)  Lots of signage with reference to the life and use of plants for food and shelter of the Ghungalu people as well as some evidence of European use of the area - the remains of a stockyard and a hut.  

While the Ghungalu aboriginal art (hand prints) found here doesn’t have the vivid colours of that found in such places as Carnarvon Gorge or the variety of images found elsewhere in Australia it is still impressive.

We had our lunch at the campground (shared with the currawongs and a lone kookaburra) after doing the cultural Circuit walk before heading back down the mountain to our caravan park at Dingo.