Sunday 20th September, The Cruise begins

Robert dropped us off at the Skytrain in Richmond at about 9:30 on his way to an appointment. What a generous person he is of his time, his home and resources. A Dry Waller by trade (puts up gyprock) he also (for no pay) does hot rock massages and takes people on hikes into the mountains – often in the snow.

The Skytrain took about 30 minutes to whisk us into Vancouver for a whole $2.50. What a fantastic public transport system. We then had to wait around until 12:00 before we could board the Statendam.  Starbucks came in handy, a coffee and a check of emails.  

Boarding took forever and included going through US customs (sped up slightly by the fact that we had already been through the US and had the green piece of card in our passports). The bonus for the day was an upgrade of our stateroom from one with a window onto a deck (Deck 6) to a room with a verandah overlooking the sea on Deck 9.  As you can imagine, we were pretty happy about that.  Lunch on board in the Lido restaurant – a very nice buffet and then it was getting to know the ship.  

At 4:30 we had the mandatory lifeboat drill.  Had to put on our lifejackets and go to our allocated lifeboat.  Didn’t have to get in, fortunately.  A bit of a get together around the seaview pool before dinner – dinner was very nice.  We did some washing, not before time as we were running very short of clean clothing and finished the day with a performance in the Van Gough Lounge – some song and dance and a few silly games before bed.

Monday 21st September, At Sea

Today we have been at sea all day. A bit rough this morning. Calmed down in the afternoon and a bit rough again tonight. Should become calmer again as we reach Chatham Strait.

Breakfast this morning was wonderful.  Practically anything you ask for and the eggs or omelettes are cooked while you wait. Had soy milk and gluten-free pastries for Jill.

After breakfast we went to listen to Emily, an Eskimo women, talk about the ports we would be calling into - quite informative. During the day we went to various other talks on shopping, animals of Alaska, blogging etc.

Lunch was comprehensive – Jill and I had Asian and it was very nice. (sweets too). No one could complain about the food. Plenty of it and very nice.

Formal attire required tonight for dinner. We knew we carried it all this way for something. Dinner was very nice. I had the salmon as one of the 4 courses.

After dinner, there was a welcome by the captain and a show concentrating on 50s and 60s songs. They obviously know their audience and cater to them. Very well performed, excellent choreography and lots of energy.  Jill and I then went to the piano bar for a while with the intention that we would then go up to the ‘Crow’s nest’ to have a dance or two (seeing we were all dressed up).  Unfortunately, they allow smoking up there so we didn’t stay.

Watches go back an hour tonight as we enter Alaskan waters at around 2am in the morning.

Tuesday 22nd September – Juneau

We arrive in Juneau (capital of Alaska) today.

I had a computer workshop this morning on editing photos. Was useful in that I found out how to use a 'brush tool'.

We went to lunch early in preparation for docking at 2pm.  While at lunch we were told that we had been held up because of the rough weather and would not arrive until 3.  It was raining as we arrived which, apparently, is not all that unusual for Alaska.  Once off the boat, we looked for Damian’s friend Lev, who works in the tourism industry here and had said that he would look after us as far as a tour was concerned.  Found Lev and he told us that he had us on a complimentary whale tour.   We didn’t expect it to be complimentary but certainly didn't complain.  Thanks, Damian and Lev.

The boat was about a 20-minute bus drive north of Juneau. Our bus driver (looked about 16 but was probably early 20s) was a bit of a card with a dry sense of humour about Alaska. ‘If you look out the bus to the right you can see the Mendenhall Glacier – can’t see it too well today because it’s raining and the widows are fogged up” etc. Had a couple of people on the bus asking the driver where Sarah Palin lived, was she there etc.  The bus driver wasn’t all that complimentary – said she was no longer governor.

Whale trip was great, despite the rain. Saw 9 humpback whales, many of them quite close to the boat. Also saw harbour seals, steller sea lions and a couple of bald eagles.

Back in Juneau, we tried to ring Lev so that we could have a coffee with him but had trouble with the phone. When I dialled the number it said you are trying to ring an international number put a 1 in front. When I did that it said you are not ringing an international number don’t put a 1 in front. Go figure!

Did a bit of shopping.  Apparently, Alaska is the shopping capital of the world – fewer taxes or something up here.  The ship has some ‘favourite’ shops where they guarantee the authenticity of jewellery, carpets etc. Actually purchased a silk carpet square (70% off US prices because it is the end of the season) for when we rip up the carpet at home and replace with timber. Even with 70% off it still cost an arm and a leg!!)  Shipping back to Australia was included.

Back on the boat about 8pm, too late for tea, so we ordered in-room dining.  I had a steak sandwich, Jill a wrap.  Left shore about 9:30 and will be in Skagway in the morning.

Wednesday 23rd September - Skagway

On waking this morning (about 7:30) we discovered that we were already tied up at the dock in Skagway. It was raining (again) and as we had no great plans or desire to walk around in the rain we had a leisurely breakfast and headed off to town about 10 am when the weather had improved a little. 

Checked the various options for a ride on the White Pass and Yukon Route Railway which as it suggests ends up in the Yukon (at White Horse). We decided on a train/bus trip going as far as Fraser - up on the train and back by bus. The route roughly follows the path taken by the stampeders (gold miners) in the 1890s. Did a bit of shopping and had some lunch (fish & chips) in town before we headed off on the train. 

The scenery was spectacular (probably even surpasses the Rocky Mountaineer scenery) as the rail climbed from sea level to close on 900 metres at White Pass a little over one hour away. It’s not surprising that the railway has been designated an International Historic Civil Engineering Landmark (along with ‘things’ like the Eiffel Tower and the Panama Canal). Snow-capped mountains, glaciers and waterfalls (including Bridal Veil Falls) everywhere. 

At White Pass, we crossed into Canada and the countryside levelled out. At Fraser - not much to see except the railway station, Canadian Customs and some poor people who had chosen to go kayaking on Fraser Lake.  Yes, it was raining again and very cold. 

The bus back took less time but not as exciting followed by a bit more shopping. We are the last ship through for the season (think I’ve already mentioned that) so there are sales everywhere. Bought a few shirts and odds and ends.  

Back to the ship about 4:30 and we made use of happy hour in the Ocean Bar. Two cocktails for the price of one. Dinner (fish for Jill and duck for me) was very good again. They really do a fantastic job catering for the 1200 guests on the "boat".  When we got back to the room Cy and Henky (our cabin boys) had been in to turn down our bed etc and put in their towel sculpture for the night.  A swan tonight (elephant last night and seal the night before).  Took a photo of Cy with his creation.  He was very tickled – the boys obviously love their work.  Tonight’s show was “World Beat”, music from around the world.  The dancers, (in particular) and singers were really first class.

While we were watching the show the ship headed out to sea. Tomorrow morning we will be in Glacier Bay.

Thursday 24th September – Glacier Bay

Up early this morning so that we could hear the talk by the ranger on Glacier Bay. Very informative as was the later talk by Alice (a native of the area).  Glacier Bay used to be entirely covered by glacier around 1750 and has been receding quickly ever since. The glaciers are a result of the little ice age which occurred about that time.  It appears that around 1680 there was nowhere near the amount of ice as there is now.  As a result of the ice age, the glacier gouged out what is now glacier bay.  The highlight was Margerie Glacier which is holding its own at the moment and not receding.  Drops about 7 feet of ice into the bay each day (on average) and sometimes this can be a piece as big as a 7 storey building calving (as it’s called) into the water.  We saw some small pieces calve while we were there.  Where the glacier meets the bay it is 25 stories high.  The intense blue of the glaciers is pretty amazing – this particularly applied to the Reid Glacier.

Another talk this afternoon by another of the rangers on "From Ice to Otters", talking about the changes to the national park as the glaciers recede. Twenty-five years ago, for instance, there were no otters – not enough seashell life to sustain them. Now there are around 4,000 in the park. The talk was excellent and conveyed the rangers love of this area.

We were fortunate that the morning was fine (even though it was cold on deck) as the afternoon turned quite miserable – drizzly rain and very cold. We were to keep an eye out for whales and otters from the top deck but had to settle for indoors in the ‘Crow’s Nest’ and our cabin balcony. We did manage to see some whales but they were quite a distance from the ship.

Made use of the happy hour cocktails again tonight – Tropical Cable Car (quite nice) and then a shower before tea – Jill had turkey and I had a steak.

Off to tonight’s show in a minute and then later on the Filipino crew are putting on a show. There’s no spare time on board ship!!

Friday 25th September – Ketchikan

A sleep in this morning as we were not getting into Ketchikan until 10.  As it turned out it was sometime after 10:30 that we were cleared to go on land.  It was raining again, which is not surprising considering it rains 90% of the time and they get 12.5 feet of rain a year.  Surprisingly, however, by the time we had caught the shuttle bus to the Tribal Hatchery and Eagle Centre, the rain had gone for the day.  The Centre was most interesting.  They divert some of the fish swimming up Ketchikan Creek into breeding ponds at the centre and raise and release 300,000 salmon, steelhead and rainbow trout a year (giving nature a helping hand). They also have a refuge for injured bald eagles and had a couple there who appeared to be quite happy.  

From there we went to the Totem Heritage Centre where they exhibit and preserve older totems from the area. They also educate on and exhibit native arts.  We caught the shuttle back to Creek Street which is a cute area of town (once the red light district), where all the shops are built on stilts over the creek. Was interesting watching the salmon run up the creek. There were massive numbers of them. A bit of shopping and we were worn out for the day. 

Back to the ship to do a bit of washing and a cocktail before dinner.  Dinner tonight was ‘Surf and Turf’ for both of us.  A bit upmarket on most S&T though. This one was steak and lobster.  Very nice too.  I think I have only been mentioning the main each night.  In actual fact, dinner is a 4-course meal. e.g. tonight was seafood (shrimp, scallops, crab) cocktail, mushroom soup (mostly a salad), the surf & turf and a chocolate dessert creation of the chef.  It is a bit hard being restrained about food on board.

Tonight’s showtime of singing and dance was based on Broadway hits – another excellent production. We then went to the Ocean Bar for a few dances. Before bed, we went to have a look at the Desert Extravaganza with lots of fruit and ice carving and chocolate sculptures. We behaved ourselves and didn’t eat.

Saturday 26th September - At Sea

It was expected to be very rough last night. They had packed up all the chairs etc so they wouldn't slide around. As it turned out it wasn't as rough as the the first night.

A quiet day today, a Disembarkation Briefing and a Crew Farewell this morning. We then had a tour of backstage in the Van Gough lounge. All very interesting and very cramped. For the last night we had a Master Chef dinner which was a bit of a performance - singing etc along with dinner.

The show tonight was a harmonica player backed by the ship's band, "The Halcats". He was amazing. Never new you could get so many sounds out of a harmonica. Went a bit long though. How long can one listen to a harmonica?

Sunday 27th September - Seattle

Woke this morning to find that we were already in Vancouver, just moving into the dock. A quick breakfast and then disembarkation. 

Collected our luggage and were escorted to our transfer coach to Seattle.  Straight forward run to Seattle, with busses getting priority at the border.  Cars had a 60 to 80-minute wait to get across we were told.  After dropping people off at the airport the driver brought us back into downtown Seattle to our Motel, which was very good of him.

After dropping our gear in at the Quality Inn we headed off to the needle and caught the Monorail down to Pike Place Market.  Now, this is a market! Everything from fruit and veg, seafood, and the usual market stuff.  Had a coffee at the very first Starbuck coffee shop (established in 1912).  Walked along the waterfront, through the Olympic Sculpture Park and back to the Motel for a nap.

Take away for tea and an early night.