September 2014 - Cook Islands

This year we are off to the Cook Islands with our son, Damian, his wife Sarah and children, Christopher and Charlotte.

We leave Sydney at 9:15pm on Saturday 3rd September and because we cross the International Date Line arrive in Rarotonga at 7:05am the morning before we left.  Now that's a bit unique.

We are staying on Rarotonga at Lagoon Breeze Villas found on the south-west of the island.  http://lagoonbreezevillas.com

Saturday 6th September 2014 – Sydney

As none of us like to be rushed, the decision was made to head off to the airport early (around 4:30pm). The plane didn't leave 'till 9:15 and that would give us a 'ton' of time. We loaded all our luggage into Damian's car and he took it down to the station at Jannali while the rest of us walked. It was a bit of a palava getting on and off the train (with the necessary change at Wolli Creek) with five large suit cases and assorted smaller bags, four adults, one 3 year old and one 9 month old (with stroller).

We're all ready!!

When we got to the airport we discovered that having a baby in tow had advantages, with us jumping the queue in emigration/quarantine and security. Once through all that (and feeding the baby along the way) we set ourselves down near a McDonald's playground (to keep Christopher occupied) and went searching for some food. Apparently these days you don't even get fed on an international flight with Air New Zealand unless you pay extra. Jill and I settled for some sushi and a salad. After that we only had enough time to get some New Zealand dollars (the currency in the Cook Islands – pretty close to parity with the $A once fees are taken into consideration) before it was time to board the plane. Boarding was at 8:15 - so much for having plenty of time.

The 6 hour fight was uneventful. We managed to get a little sleep and watched a little TV (Movies were an extra $10 – thought sleep was more important than a movie at any rate). Damian and Sarah and kids were in the row in front of us and had a bassinet for Charlotte.

Sleepy time!!!

Saturday 6th (our second) September 2014 - Rarotonga

We landed in Avarua (capital of Rarotonga) at 6:20am on the Saturday morning before we left. Our tickets said we weren't due until 7:30. Must have had quite a tail wind or something. Just as well we did get a little sleep as we still had a whole day in front of us. The airport was small and cute with a singing performer welcoming us. Emigration/quarantine was straight forward and we were met by a man from Cook Island Tours (and gardenia leis - a lei being called a ei in the Cook Islands) who was delivering us to Lagoon Breeze Villas which is on the south western side of the island at Aroa Beach, several kilometres from Avarua. 

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We've arrived

The traffic was pretty quiet along the coast road which circumnavigates the island and we arrived at Lagoon Breeze before anyone else was awake. Our driver showed us to our villa and left us to settle in before breakfast. The villa is two bedrooms and quite a large living area. Very well set up (even a dishwasher) and in a very pleasant environment. Breakfast (included in the accommodation) was local seasonal fruits (paw paw, coconut, bananas and oranges along with a selection of stewed fruit, yoghurt and cereals plus toast and brewed coffees/tea – very adequate. The paw paw and coconut were particularly delicious.

After booking in it was back to the villa briefly before catching the local bus back to Avarua for the Saturday morning Punanga Market. Local buses circumnavigate the island each hour travelling both in a clockwise and anticlockwise direction ($8 return). Unfortunately for us everyone else appeared to be heading to the market as well and the bus was very crowded and we had to stand up all the way. Christopher did particularly well although there was concern that he was going to fall asleep on his feet. The market was very busy – lots of food stalls and clothing stalls. We didn't really do it justice as we were a bit keen to get to the supermarket in case it closed at noon. (we gather that there is not too much opened at weekends, particularly Saturday afternoon and Sunday). Had a kebab, bought some citrus and a mango and watched a Cook Island dance sequence then headed for the supermarket. 

 

Punanga Market

We had heard that food is expensive in the Cook Islands and that proved to be pretty true. $158 for enough shopping for a few meals. Fresh veges were particularly expensive (except for carrots). After the supermarket we caught the bus back to Lagoon Breeze. We were first on the bus this time so had seats. We fed Christopher corn chips along the way to keep him awake.

Lagoon Breeze

Our Villa at Lagoon Breeze

When we got back to Lagoon Breeze we discovered that we didn't really have anything for lunch so it was corn chips and salsa before Jill and I had a bit of a kip. Walked down to the beach (across the road in front of the villas) which is apparently very good for snorkelling. The tide was well out at this time of day and there were lots of exposed coral clumps. Will snorkel when the tide is a bit higher. Had a bit of a laze around before happy hour (1½ hours actually). They would have been glad we turned up as we were the only ones there. I had a couple of local beers ($4) and the others had cocktails ($10) while Christopher had a play on the play equipment.

Happy Hour

Pasta and bolognaise sauce for dinner before we all had an early night. It had been a long day.

Sunday 7th September 2014 - Rarotonga

We awoke around 7:30am and went for a walk. Aroa is a small village so there are a few streets. All the houses are concrete block (not much millable timber on the island apparently). There are lots of living fences made from various plants which are a bit cute. We saw quite a lot of sweet potato which had just been planted. There were also lots of chooks everywhere - and dogs and a few goats and a single cow.

A living fence

Our morning walk

Back to Lagoon Breeze for breakfast and then a trip to the office to check on booking a hire car for Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday and to have a chat about options for the next few days.

We looked after CandC while Damian and Sarah went for a paddle in the kayak (available from Lagoon Breeze). Christopher and I spent some time in the pool and Jill and Charlotte joined us when Charlotte woke up. When Damian and Sarah returned, Jill and I headed off in the kayak along the coast as far as the Rarotongan Beach Resort a little along the coast. The water is incredibly clear and we do need to get in for that snorkel sometime soon.

On our return Jill and I set off for a takeaway (we had seen as we were paddling) to check it out for lunch. The fish and chips and salad was quite satisfactory. We then walked on to the Rarotongan Resort to have a look. It was much more upmarket and very pleasant but we're quite happy with the quieter atmosphere of the Lagoon Breeze.

After a bit of a rest we headed off to Coco-Putt, a mini golf course and bar just down the road. As it was a buffet dinner and live music night (with golf thrown in) we booked in. The golf was fun, the music most enjoyable and the meal 'to die for'. Excellent meats and plenty of salad plus deserts much better than the usual buffet affair. Coco-Putt would have to be the best value meal in the Cook Islands (not that we have had too many to compare with) – with drinks it all came to about $50 each.

Coco-Putt

There was a little bit of rain while we were at Coco-Putt but it fined up long enough for us to walk the few hundred metres back to Lagoon Breeze.

Monday 8th September 2014 - Rarotonga

After breakfast this morning we picked up a hire car for the next three days. We organised it through Lagoon Breeze and Island Car and Bike Hire. ICABH picked Jill and I up and took us to their office and set us up with a Nissan March (Nissan Micra in Australia). Very compact but enough room for all of us. No such thing as a car seat in the Cook Islands so Charlotte is sitting on Sarah's knee- well in a pouch. With a top speed to 50km/hr on the island and 20km/hr through villages it shouldn't be a problem. The hire was pretty cheap at $125 for the three days (even if the car has seen better days).

Our Hire Car

Back to Lagoon Breeze to pick up the others and we set out east along the bottom of the island. We found a fruit and vege stall and bought coconuts, pawpaw and bananas. Checked out the side road to Wigmore's (Papua) Waterfall where the Cross Island Track comes out. We all intend doing that tomorrow (in shifts – DandS in the morning AandJ in the afternoon). The road to the falls turns off at the abandoned Vaimaanga Hotel.

Vaimaanga Hotel

The Vaimaanga was to be a luxury hotel and was 80% built on this site in 1993 by an Italian company before work ceased. I've read the stop was a result of embezzlement of funds and also as a result of a crackdown on Mafia activities in Italy. Whichever is correct the hotel now stands abandoned.

Travelling further around the island we called in to Muri Beach for lunch at Sales Restaurant, and very nice it was. Jill and I had the Rau Rau Manea (traditional Cook Island food – smoked fish, curry eke, spiced rukau poke, island fries, and curry pawpaw. Muri Beach is a protected area (with small islands off shore within the lagoon). We spent some time on the beach after lunch before completing our circuit of the island.

Lunch at Sales

Rau Rau Maneau

Muri Beach 

We stopped in Avarua to do a bit of shopping and then on to the “bigger supermarket” run by CITC (Cook Island Trading Company) for a few more supplies.

Downtown Avarua

We were back at Lagoon Breeze in time for Jill and I to clean up ready to be picked up for the Highland Paradise Cultural Centre where we we were to have dinner and a show. Highland Paradise has won several Cook Island tourist awards over the years and well deserved. It was a most enjoyable night and the meal of local food was excellent. Highland Paradise tells the story of Cook Island life prior to Christianity (which included cannibalism and human sacrifice), life after the missionaries arrived in 1821 and life since 1974 when the international airport opened and tourism began in earnest. The night was not cheap at $99 per head but was well worth it.

 

Highland Paradise

Tuesday 9th September 2014 - Rarotonga

Charlotte has developed a bit of a cold and is out of sorts this morning so we have had a change of plan.  Jill and I will do the walk today and if Charlotte is feeling better Damian and Sarah can do it tomorrow.

After breakfast Damian dropped us off at the northern carpark of the Cross-Island Track. 

The first part of the walk was pretty easy along a formed road. Once this ended we began to climb quite steeply up towards Rua Manga (The Needle). 

While steep it wasn't too difficult as there were roots everywhere that you could hang onto while climbing. Near Rua Manga there is a side track (200m long) to a lookout at the base of the needle where you could see to the coast both north and south. We had a snack at the top to keep our strength up before heading south down a very steep track which had ropes in a few spots to assist.

 

Once at the base of the hill the track criss crossed a stream all the way to the southern carpark. The walk was pretty strenuous in places but well worth it. 

The views from the top were amazing. One thing that has puzzled us on Rarotonga, however, is the lack of birdlife. On the coast the only birds we had seen were Indian Miners (apart from chooks and roosters which are absolutely everywhere – even at the Rua Manga). No seagulls!!!. We thought that would be different once we got into the forest but this was not to be. We did see a couple of white terns in the distance but that was it. Where are the birds? Will have to ask someone.

Had a late lunch when we got home (The across island walk took us 3½ hours with plenty of time to “smell the roses”, followed by a rest before 'happy hour and a half'. We then went to the Kaena Restaurant down the road where Jill and I had had fish and chips the other day. We both had grilled fish, Sarah, chicken and Damian, steak. While nothing to get too excited about it was quite satisfactory for its $28 - $30 asking fee (a bit more expensive than we would expect to pay in Australia).

Wednesday 10th September 2014 - Rarotonga

We had a king tide last night and the surf is still very rough this morning crashing over the reef which is about 50 metres from shore. I don't think I have mentioned it before but pretty well the whole island has a reef surrounding it just off shore. The tide was so high last night that it crossed the road at several spots along the coast.

After breakfast it was Damian and Sarah's turn for the Cross-Island Track. I transported them around to the northern car park along with Mike and Cheryl, a New Zealand couple we had met the other night at Highland Paradise. On the way back I called into the Westpac bank to get some Cook Island currency. They have two $3 notes along with a $5, $2 and $1 coin which are in circulation along with the New Zealand currency.  Also had a bit of a look around Avarua.

First stop was the Beachcomber which was constructed in 1845 by the London Missionary Society.  It was originally a Sunday school and a church community venue.  State Legislature was also housed at the old Sunday school prior to the establishment of the Parliament of the Cook Islands in 1964.  The building was rebuilt in 1992 after being almost completely destroyed in a Cyclone in 1965.  It is now shops.

The Beachcomber originally built in 1845

The Avarua CICC church built in 1853

Back to Lagoon Breeze where Jill was looking after Charlotte and Christopher. They were both having a nap when I got back.

After lunch I went to pick up our walkers from the southern end. It was then that I noticed how much sand was on the road from last night's tide.

Even though the water was a bit rough I thought I had better get in a snorkel in case the seas got rougher still. The water was pretty murky from sand but I did see some fish and the coral was pretty spectacular. Hopefully the tides will settle down and we can get in the water again.

Damian and Sarah were off to Highland Paradise tonight, so after a cocktail at happy hour and a half they caught the bus, leaving us with the children. We took them down to watch the sunset and the big waves.

It was then time for tea and bed. Baked beans, toast, tomato and an egg that the local chooks had left us just outside our villa

Thursday 11th September 2014 - Rarotonga

On our short walk this morning before breakfast we discovered that the tide had come over the road again during the night. Lots of coconuts and other debris lying around. Apparently this is a bit unique and hasn't happened for years. It doesn't look good for the future with global warming.

High Tide

Damian was off for a dive at 8am so he missed out on breakfast. I had a quick one and headed to the golf course for nine holes. I was invited to join a couple of locals which made it much more interesting than playing on your own. It must have been my type of course with a birdie, two pars and 23 Stableford points for my nine holes. It's an interesting course - only nine holes and you play among telecommunications towers and their guy wires. Apparently you get another hit, no penalty, if you hit one. The course is also very compact so you have to have a bit of an eye out for other players. The fairways were in good nick, the greens a bit rougher than I'm used to but all in all was most enjoyable.

Rarotonga Golf Course

Picked up Jill, Sarah, CandC when I got back to Lagoon Breeze and took the inside route (while the main road circumnavigates the island close to the coast, there is also an inside road that also circumnavigates most of the island a few hundred metres inland. It's less touristy on the inland road and it's nice to see all the pawpaw and bananas growing - along with sweet potato and taro. There's kasava there too somewhere but we don't know what that looks like. We stopped in Avarua at Trader Jack's for lunch. A bit up market and not very friendly. We think they were catering for a different clientele – certainly not kids. $17 each for a burger, fish and chips and salt and pepper squid. I also had a Capuano. All satisfactory but again nothing to write home about.

Lunch at Trader Jacks

In the harbour outside Trader Jacks is a modern interpretation of a Vaka (the giant double hulled polynesian canoe).  They certainly look as if they could do the job of transporting the early Polynesians across the Pacific.

A Vaka

Back to Lagoon Breeze where Jill and I looked after CandC while Damian and Sarah went for a drive. After Charlotte went down for a nap I took the opportunity to go for a snorkel. It's was still a bit rough and the current quite strong so I went down the beach a little and let the current bring me back. Lots of fish but still pretty murky from all the sand that has been stirred up.

On Damian and Sarah's return Jill and I got ready to go out for our Progressive Dinner which we had booked a couple of days before.

It didn't start well. We were to be picked up at 5:15pm. When the bus still hadn't arrived at 20 to 6 I went back to the room to find the number to ring. When I got back to the bus stop the bus (full of people) pulled up and the driver said he would be back shortly, after dropping everyone off. When we were eventually delivered to the first house everyone else was part way through the guided tour so we didn't have a clue what was happening. The guide (who turned out to be chief of some group (never found out which one) was showing everyone around his garden - even explaining what had happened to a few car wrecks sitting in the back yard. Jill and I looked at each other with a “whose idea was this”. Fortunately things looked up from there on. In his vege garden we saw our first arrowroot plant - and as we have heard, it does look a bit like marijuana. He shelled a coconut for us all (very sweet) and then it was time for entrees. On the menu was marinated raw fish, sweet potato and banana salad – all delicious.  Never thought we would say that about raw fish.  Apparently it's marinated in lemon juice which actually 'cooks' the fish . Before hopping on the bus for the next venue we were entertained by the children of the extended family with some dancing – a bit cute.

On to the next house for mains. We were introduced to the family (two sisters did the cooking) and were greeted by one of the boys with a welcome chant. Dinner was very delicious, coconut crusted fish, chicken and numerous salads and vegetables (mostly local produce) plus some 'angry bread' (a product of one of the atoll islands where there is no soil to grow root crops).

At our desert stop we were provided with a delicious fruit salad, a meringue stack, pineapple and pawpaw upside down cake, banana cake, ice-cream and tea and coffee.

First Course

Second Course

Third Course

At each stop we were entertained by the 'chief' on his ukulele and the boss tour person and the owners of the establishment. While the night got off to a shaky start it was all very enjoyable and the food delicious.  It was just great to go into the homes of some 'real' Cook Island residents and spend time with them.

...... and the night finished with the Cook Islands' National Anthem