Tuesday 1st May 2018. Mullumbimby to Gunnedah. 541 km

We left home around 7 am. First stop was Lismore at the AOR agent to get the struts replaced on the roof of the camper. The old ones were wearing out and it was a bit hard for Alex to raise and lower the pop top. This was meant to be done last week but the wrong ones came. Now the new ones are slightly different to the originals as well so some adjustments are required. I guess our Quantum is 10 years old and changes have been made over the years.  We left Craig to it and went for a walk around the CBD of Lismore, Molesworth street is very quiet.

The job done, and we were back on the road towards Grafton where we met up with Margaret and Arthur for a coffee before heading to Gunnedah via Ebor. We pulled over on the side of the road for lunch just east of Ebor before pushing on again. It’s much cooler in the Tablelands.

Lunch near Ebor (Love the haircut!!)

We arrived in Gunnedah just on dark. We checking out Cohen’s Bridge campsite featured in WikiCamps but couldn’t see much in the dark. The camp is just off the Kelvin Road on the Namoi River. There was plenty of room and it was dry and dusty - quite a nice change from the squishy ground at home. 

It's been a long day. The first day of any trip seems to be a long day. Glad we had some leftover curry on the menu for dinner tonight.

Wednesday 2nd of May. Gunnedah to Cobar. 496 km

Cohen's Bridge campsite.

Woke at 6:30 am to a glorious sunrise and a walk around this Travelling Stock Route and along the Namoi River. Corellas were chatting quite loudly to each other. We had breakfast before walking into Gunnedah CBD to The Mitre 10 for a chock for the bathroom door of Margaret and Arthur’s van. To get there all four of us had to walk across the Cohen's Bridge, a long narrow bridge. It is two-lane but no walking area so if two vehicles are passing one has to hug the railings.

Morning tea was with Kay and Stephen near Mallaley.  Lunch at Gilgandra at the information centre. Jill bought a very cute-looking book called “Sheila the one-eyed chook: - a children's book.

On to Cobar to the old Reservoir. The water level was very low. A lady walking her dogs (well she wasn't actually walking them when we saw her they were in a cage on the back of a truck and were big and scary looking – maybe pig-dogs) said it was the lowest she’d seen it in 15 years.

Thursday 3rd of May. Cobar to Broken Hill. 458 km.

The Old Reservoir. Cobar.

Dawn over the reservoir at Cobar

 A pretty sunrise again this morning. Went for a walk around the Reservoir - not much more than a puddle. There were kangaroos (didn't see much grass at present for them to eat) and on the Reservoir there was a pelican and an egret and a bit later an emu visited. Also saw a flock of very green parrots with some red on their lower parts. Didn’t get close enough for identification.

A long drive to Broken Hill via Wilcannia (where we had lunch on the river). It's always lovely to see the sandstone buildings but sad to see how much Wilcannia has "fallen" from those days when the river trade was so important to this part of the world.  There's very little water in the Darling today. 

We went to the Visitor Centre in Broken Hill where we booked into the primitive campground out near the Living Desert Sculptures and Flora and Fauna Sanctuary. Our first choice campsite and been the race course but it was not available as it will be filled with the Broken Hill AgFair which is on this weekend. Anyway, the camping area is near the sculptures so we can walk up there from the campsite. The man at the centre said we should not walk up as the road is steep, windy, narrow and might have big trucks or buses on it!  Time will tell.  Guess they have to cover themselves.

Dinner tonight at the Musicians Club. Our supposedly mild chicken curry was very hot - but delicious.

Friday 4th May 2018. Starview Primitive Campsite Broken Hill.

We thought it would 6:10 when we woke and jumped out of bed, hurriedly dressed and headed off up the road to the sculptures which we wanted to see as the sun rose (in actual fact it was only 5:40 as Broken Hill is on Central Australian time so we had plenty of time). The early start was definitely worth it despite it being icy cold. The early morning light was amazing for photos and then the sun came up and peeped through one of the sculptures!

 

 

 

After breakfast, we headed out Mundi Mundi Lookout and then on to Silverton. You certainly get the picture that you are in the outback at Mundi Mundi.

Mundi Mundi Lookout

 Silverton’s pub is famous for being in a number of movies including Mad Max 2. the village (if you can call it that) It is also full of galleries. Silverton is a pretty amazing spot with many of the old sandstone buildings still standing. We spent quite a bit of time in the “Beyond 39 Dips” gallery – a huge variety of local art.

Back to Broken Hill where we were going to check out the mine tour. Got to the information centre to find that it was closed for a private function. No mine tour so we had a look around the area and in particular the monument to miners. It was quite fascinating. Quite sobering to see just how many people lost their lives over the years.

We checked out the CBD and then drove on to the Pro Hart gallery. Discovered that Pro’s actual name was Kevin. Pro was a nickname short for Professor as he was a bit of a know it all at school. No photos allowed inside but we took photos of his Rolls Royce cars (x3) and Bentley in the front yard and some sculptures across the road.

Saturday 5th May 2018. Starview Primitive Campsite.

Eight degrees centigrade at 6 am this morning. Starview Primitive Campsite is a lovely spot. It gets its “primitive” label because there is no power, no drinking water, no mobile reception, no children's playground. no dump point - just a lovely spot 1km from the sculptures. It does have two toilets and showers so that there can be quite a queue if all 15 sites are occupied.

We spent this morning at AgFair. The highlight was seeing, Mullumbimby local, Belinda Jeffery doing a food demonstration. She amazingly prepared four dishes in the 1-hour slot. This included cooking soda bread in an oven that was not working properly (much too hot). She also made an omelette with avo and tomatoes tomato salsa; a chocolate slice and a halloumi salad. The audience got a taste as well. The Meredith goat cheese on the omelette was yummy.  We bought some bamboo socks and checked out lots and lots and lots of tools as well as sheep and cattle.

Lunch was in downtown Broken Hill, then back to camp to put the roast on in Arthur’s oven for tonight’s dinner. The veggies went in a second oven. Beer o’clock had to be extended as the roast took longer to cook than expected. While it was all cooking we went for a visit to the flora and fauna reserve just beyond the sculptures. Unfortunately, we had left it a bit late as the gate was closing soon after we got there. A quick look was all we could manage.

And the roast dinner was delicious.

Sunday 6th May Broken Hill to Fitzgerald Bay.

This morning we went for a walk in the red sand hills near the campground. It's pretty well vegetated with saltbush (presumably). There is a lot of evidence of this area being used for something before the campsite setup (it was only opened in November last year). There were various earthworks and contours with other areas levelled and fenced. Maybe it was a university research area or some such.

A long drive today. We thought there would be a quarantine station at the border but it was quite a bit further on. We tried to eat all the fruit and vegetable before this. Very straightforward. The man did want to look in the van. Countryside very flat and very little vegetation for a while.  Lots of emus in places.

Port Augusta. We thought we might camp here but the site was just a car park and pretty full. We did use the dump point though for a cost of $3and then drove on to Point Lowry.  It was also pretty full so we drove up the coast a bit to Fitzgerald Bay where we found a little flat spot on the edge of Spencer Gulf. We were able to collect a bit of firewood for our first fire for the trip.  As it's quite cool tonight we thoroughly enjoyed it.  The sunset was pretty spectacular too.

Monday 7th May 2018 Fitzgerald Bay to Redcliff (near Tumby Bay)

We awoke to an amazing sunrise this morning. Got up to take photos then went back to bed as it was very windy. We're on the road around 9:30 am.

Coffee and supermarket shopping at Whyalla. We had to restock the fruit and veg after going through the quarantine station yesterday.

Now we're heading for Tumby Bay and think we may stay somewhere with a washing machine. We had a recommendation for the CWA camping in Tumby Bay so checked it out. There were only four sites - basically just a driveway and the yard of the CWA building. We decided to move on to the Redcliffe Church of Christ campsite about 12 km south of Tumby Bay. It even has the washing machine!

Because there is quite a long gravel road to get there many people in regular vans do not add it to their list and as it was,  when we arrived we were the only ones there.  So lovely and peaceful and right on the gulf.

Steam veggies and smoked fish from the Mullumbimby farmers market dinner.

Tuesday 8th of May 2018. Redcliffe Church of Christ campsite Tumby Bay

A little walk after the sun came up peeking through the clouds.  Walked along the beach where there were huge piles of seaweed (seagrass) on the beach. 

After breakfast and doing the washing we headed to Tumby Bay. Checked out the jetty. Lots of people fishing and catching salmon and squid, the latter squirting ink all over the jetty. We looked for Leafy Sea Dragons (it is their environment) from the jetty but later found out that they were very hard to see even when snorkelling.

We explored a little of Tumby Bay - a lookout a little down the coast and a well-established Mangrove walk and Boardwalk.  Someone has done quite a lot of plantings of flowering natives at the beginning of the walk and it will quite pretty once established.  Tumby Bay is quite a pretty spot.

 Had fish (garfish and not that exciting!) chips and calamari at the Waterfront Cafe then back to camp for a walk along the beach and back via an inland track, and some photos with the last of the sunbeams.

Wednesday 9th May 2018 Redcliff campsite.

Very windy last night. Can't believe how windy it can get!

Off to Port Lincoln today.  Margaret and Arthur had to take their vehicle in for its first service so we all went together. Dropped the Ford off at the dealer and went for a wander around the streets of Port Lincoln. Checked out the Makybe Diva statue and one of Matthew Flinders and his cat - then coffee at Del Giorno coffee shop.

Drove to the marina via the port for lunch. It was a bit special as it was our 48th wedding anniversary and lunch on the balcony of the hotel looking out over the marina was appropriate.  The King George Whiting and prawns for lunch and was delicious.

After lunch we drove to the National Park which has some lovely private campsites with amazing views over the bay (what a huge bay, you can see why it was chosen as a port). Drove as far as Surfleet Point looking out towards the Bicker Isles.  Saw emus right near the road and some spectacular photogenic gum trees.

Back in Port Lincoln we went to Bunnings and bought a little bathroom shelf rack (suction type).  It will be interesting to see if it stays put, especially when we get on to corrugated roads.

It was then home to our camp at Redcliff.  Beer o'clock with gin liquor and lemon juice, then an anniversary dinner of gourmet beans (with eggs tomato and spinach) wine then dark chocolate cranberry cashews and dark chocolate ginger and a very nice port.

Thursday 10th of May Redcliffe to Coffin Bay.

Packed up. A much bigger job than usual as we were here for 3 days and had put up a wall to keep the wind out.  On the way out to the highway, we passed a "salt" lake.  Fascinating toi see the amount of salt that collects on the fence running through the lake.

First stop Port Lincoln as Arthur and Margaret had to get the bathroom door fixed on their van (covered under warranty). Coffee at the Rogue and Rascal Coffee Shop plus a wander through the art gallery next door. Also checked out the camping shop and the Salvos Op Shop. 

Coffin Bay was only about 50 km away and we were soon set up on an unpowered site at Coffin Bay Caravan Park - plenty of room here. Margaret got busy with a cake form Arthur's birthday (cooked in the camp oven).  We then went for a walk and Arthur bought some oysters (for which Coffin Bay is famous).

The oyster walk goes along the waterfront right in front of lots of holiday rental places. There is about 17km of track but we only did a small section.  Quite a few people fishing on the wharf. A very friendly Egret that was not scared off by humans was hanging around waiting to be fed.  What a life!

Back at camp we put up a birthday banner and balloons and combined to make stir-fry chicken and veg for birthday dinner - then chocolate birthday cake. We had planned on going out for dinner but the yacht club is not open Thursdays and we've heard that this is the only place for a reasonably nice dinner in Coffin Bay.  We have it on the list for tomorrow night.

The oyster walk goes along the waterfront right in front of lots of holiday rental places. There is about 17km of track but we only did a small section.  Quite a few people fishing on the wharf. A very friendly Egret that was not scared off by humans was hanging around waiting to be fed.  What a life!  

Back at camp we put up a birthday banner and balloons and combined to make stir-fry chicken and veg for birthday dinner - then chocolate birthday cake. We had planned on going out for dinner but the yacht club is not open Thursdays and we've heard that this is the only place for a reasonably nice dinner in Coffin Bay.  We have it on the list for tomorrow night.

Friday the 11th May. Coffin Bay

We explored a little of Coffin Bay National Park today after a nice slow start to the morning.  Called into a lookout at the beginning of the park on the way out. 

 It was about 20km out to Avoid Point (on a bitumen road),  a very wild and rugged spot - sparse low vegetation.  Gale force winds blowing and the Southern Ocean is very rough seas.  You can see why the early mariners appreciated the "Roaring Forties"

We then drove back to Yangie Bay on the other side of the Peninsula (still on a bitumen road). It's much more protected on this side with quite a few camping sites that look quite nice.   A family of friendly emus with three young ones wandering around the campsite. We walked up to a lookout where you could see out over the bay and surrounding countryside.

Back to camp, via the Oyster Shack, for a rest and a shower before going out to dinner at the yacht club.

King George whiting again and it was delicious. Apparently, the yacht club is staffed by volunteers. Anyway, they do a great job preparing meals with 50 + people on Friday, Sunday and Wednesday nights.