Saturday 29th June – Windjana Gorge to Silent Grove (Bell Gorge)

We were packed up and on the road fairly early.  Jill’s back is slightly better so hopefully she is on the improve.  It was easy to see that those that left yesterday had had some difficulty as the road was well churned up – lots of mud everywhere.  Fortunately there had been a few vehicles leave earlier than us and they had smoothed out the ruts pretty well.  Apart from one quite muddy floodway the road out to the Gibb River Road didn’t create too many problems.  Once on the Gibb the road was excellent.  Our first stop was to take some photos in the Napier Range (a continuation of the limestone of the Great Barrier Reef (including a rock shaped labelled ‘Queen Victoria’s Head’.  

From there we leave the Limestone and are back into the sandstone country and the Leopold Ranges.  Some quite good photo spots from Inglis Gap.  Also spotted some Kimberley Rose a small tree with quite large reddish-pink flowers.  Quite eye catching.

After Inglis Gap we turned off the Gibb for the 19 km drive to Silent Grove Camp Site (the camp site attached to Bell Gorge).  The track runs back along the north Eastern side of the King Leopold Range.  A few creek crossings on the way in but otherwise the road is quite good.  Met up with Neil and Julie (the camp hosts from Mount Augustus) who directed us to the ideal camping spot where we set up and had lunch.

After lunch it was off to Bell Gorge a further 10 km drive along the range.  The walk in (about 1 km) is quite rugged at first down a gentle slope thick with boulders until it reaches the bed of a small stream where it is a little gentler.  It’s a lovely walk but not all that kind to Jill’s back.

Bell Gorge (and its waterfall) is spectacular.  Such pretty rocks and lots of water tumbling over a 5 tier waterfall into the gorge below.  The path goes on further past the falls from where you can wind down a track to the bottom where there is a lovely swimming hole (with a snake swimming in it today).  This was as far as Jill could go so we had a swim at the top of the falls instead.  Fairly shallow but very refreshing just the same.  Saw a Merton’s Monitor sunning himself on a rock and lots of small brown rocks.

Back to camp for a pizza dinner (turned out quite well in the fry pans) where we were joined by a very nosy northern bandicoot who was not at all worried by our presence.

Sunday 30th June – Silent Grove

Our intention today was to head to Mornington Wilderness Camp but a phone call yesterday told us that the road was closed, at least for today and maybe longer.  Decision made to stay another day in this beautiful spot so lots more reading, lazing around, blogging, organising photos and bird watching – in addition to the regulars we also have crimson and double bar finches.  Also did some washing in our bucket washing machine.

Went for a walk along Silent Grove Creek to a small waterlily covered waterhole where the water feeds to the camp.  The water in the creek is crystal clear.

Interesting watching people pack up the camp site almost empty and then start to fill up again from lunch time.  Fortunately there was lots of sun today so in addition to keeping the fridge going we were also able to charge the computer, flood light batteries etc.

Nice hot showers and were all ready for Mornington.  Mark made a phone call and the road is still closed.  Apparently the camping ground has been flooded and the drives out to the gorges have been closed.  Seems like Mornington is not to be.  Tomorrow we head for Manning Gorge.  Hopefully we will even have the opportunity to stock up on fruit and veg at Imintji and Mt Barnett Roadhouse.

Monday 1st July – Silent Grove to Manning Falls

First stop this morning was Imintji Road House where we fuelled up ($2.40 per litre) and did manage to find some fruit and veg but unfortunately the truck does not come through until Wednesday so there was not much of a selection.

Next stop was Adcock Gorge 5km off the road, the last half k or so being very much a four wheel drive track through the creek and up the other side.  What a pretty little gorge and a very pleasant walk along beside the creek.  There is even some rock art at the end.

A little further on was Galvans Gorge with the car park right beside the road (and very full of travellers).  Another nice walk into the gorge and a pleasant swimming hole at the end with lots of people swimming.  A bit too busy for us.

Our planned camp for the night was Manning Gorge so it was on to Mount Barnett Roadhouse where we paid our camping fee ($12.50 each for seniors otherwise $20) and purchased some more fruit, veg and other groceries.  Jill and I were even tempted by the burgers with the lot.  What a good decision as it was an excellent burger and at $10.50 quite reasonable compared to elsewhere in WA.

Down to the camping ground, 7km in, where M&K had already set up camp.  After Silent Grove the camping area was a bit of a disappointment – dry and dusty and the facilities that were a bit light on (6 showers and 6 toilets) to cater for this very popular spot – no drinking water.  The river made up for the disappointment.  We went for a swim and it was most refreshing.  Checked out the crossing point for tomorrow's walk where you have to pull yourself across in a boat.

We had collected some timber along the way for a fire tonight as it’s roast night – and it was delicious.  Even asked our neighbour Paul from Epping to join us after he came over for some medical attention to a cut finger.  A nice sit around the fire and it was bedtime.

Tuesday 2nd July 2013 – Manning Gorge to Mount Elizabeth Station.

Manning Gorge is about a 90 minute walk so we set off at 8:15 to beat the heat of the day.  You begin the walk by crossing the river.  Until recently this was done by putting your clothing in styrofoam boxes and swimming across but recently they have added a boat set up with rope and pullies which is used to ferry people across.  It’s a bit like hard work pulling yourself across but much easier then the swimming method and its dressing and undressing.

While quite a long walk it was delightful.  After the recent rain the wildflowers are putting on quite a display and the sandstone country quite pretty.  Mind you I wouldn’t like to do it when it was too hot.  Manning Falls themselves make any effort to get there worthwhile.  What a lovely spot.  Jill and I went for a swim – even swam underneath the falls.

Back to Mount Barnett Roadhouse where we topped up with fuel again ($2.44) and grabbed some hot chips and an icy pole for lunch.

We are now heading toward Mitchell Falls but have decided to spend tonight at Mount Elizabeth Station.  Our reading up last night found that this was one of the few Stations left that was still actually run by a family (the Lacy Family have been here since 1945) so we thought it should be supported.  It also has some excellent indigenous rock at we may get to see.

So after lunch it was on to Mount Elizabeth.  Set up camp under the trees and booked in for a tagalong property tour (and rock art) tomorrow as well as dinner – a real splurge.

Wednesday 3rd July 2013 – Mount Elizabeth

It was down to 4 degrees last night – a bit of a shock to the system as this has been the first cold weather since the Anne Beadell (apart from the rainy weather we had in Newman).  A few days ago we were sleeping with only a sheet!!!!!

We met Phil at 7:45 at the homestead.  He had a Troopy full of passengers and there we 4 extra vehicles tagging along.  As we drove along Phil gave a running commentary on channel 10 of how the property operates and how difficult it is to make a living out of cattle these days.  Mount Elizabeth relies on its tourist dollars to keep it afloat.  We stopped for morning tea beside a stream (including gluten free cake).

Next stop was for indigenous rock art was was pretty amazing – both Gwion (also known as Bradshaw) and Wandjina styles. The Gwion paintings typically depict groups a graceful human figures often wearing headdresses and carrying objects such as boomerangs and spears.  Wandjina figures are more recent, usually larger often with halo-like headdresses and huge staring eyes.   Some of the art has been dated at around 17,500 years old and having Phill there to talk about it made it most interesting.  

On to a swimming hole for lunch and more rock art.  Some of the art in the area has been recently touched up (and not very well which is disappointing).  Fortunately there is still enough “untouched” to marvel at.  One wonders how much longer this art will be with us as much of it is weathered and will unfortunately eventually disappear.

What a great day and for the $50 each on a tagalong well worth it.  Phil was excellent.  We were back at camp by about 2.30 for a rest up before dinner.

Dinner at the homestead was a three course meal.  Pumpkin soup followed by roast beef, lasagne and vegetables, then pavlova – all delicious.

Thursday 4th July 2013 – Mount Elizabeth to Drysdale River

Back to the Gibb River Road this morning.  The Gibb certainly is in good condition at the moment, unlike the Mount Elizabeth Road which was fairly corrugated in places.  We did pass a wrecked trailer though – looked like its springs had pulled out of their hangers or the weld on the hangers had given way.

The good road disappeared once we turned on to the Kalumburu Road to head towards Mitchell Falls.  Camp for the night was Miners Pool (part of Drysdale River Station) about 60km up the road.

Drysdale is quite a thriving little community with a small store (no fruit and veg), bar and restaurant and quite a busy camping area.  We chose the much quieter Miners Pool about 7 kms down the road on the banks of the Drysdale River.

After setting up camp we went for a quick swim in the river – no showers here.  It was very refreshing, read cool and no crocs.  At least that’s what the man at Drysdale told us.  After the cold nights at Mount Elizabeth we had collected some firewood along the way so we had a nice fire tonight.  In fact we had collected so much wood we had some to load back on the camper for another night.