A couple of weeks to escape the incessant rain we seem to be having in Mullumbimby at the moment. West to the Warrumbungles and then on to Coolah Tops. A visit to family and relatives in Mullaley/Quirindi/Willow Tree and then back home via Mulligans Campground in Gibraltar Range National Park.
Left home at 8 am with toast and coffee to go .....
Lunch at Glen Innes at the Railway Hotel Bistro. Very nice prawns and salad. Lots of trees with their autumn colours in both Tenterfield and Glen Innes as we drive through.
Quite a few wind turbines in the hills west of Glen Innes.
Camp tonight is at Cranky Rock Nature Reserve, 8km short of Warialda and 3km in off the highway. A nice campsite and amazing rocks on a short walk from camp.
Headed west fairly early. Checked out Gravesend School as we drove through the village (Alex's first appointment in 1968, joined by Jill in 1969). Was a school day so we didn't call in but the school looks cared for with a lovely-looking community garden with lots of raised beds.
Met Jill's sister Wendy and friend Dimity in Narrabri at Coogle Cafe & Garden. Lovely to see them and a nice spot for lunch outside in the garden. They're travelling north.
Quite a lot of cotton after Narrabri (some harvested with lots of bales lined up and some yet to be harvested) and we're in the big truck area - lots of B-doubles.
Arrived at Warrumbungles and found Wambelong Camping Area - a nice open area next to the creek. Setting up camp with the kangaroos was nice.
Joined our neighbours around their campsite after dinner.
The first stop this morning was the Visitors Centre, a good plan, as the ranger was so helpful, providing us with a flyer that showed all the short walks in the park. We had already decided that we weren't up to any 14km walks. Did a bit of shopping while we were there - a booklet that provided detailed information on the walks, a Warrumbungles sticker, some socks for Claire, honey mustard dressing, a book and some coasters.
For lunch, we decided to go to Siding Springs Observatory (the only cafe in the park) We opted for a burger without the bun which was a bit 'ordinary'. After lunch, we checked out the telescope, taking the lift to the fourth floor. Jill thought it was a bit ho-hum but it is interesting - it is Australia's largest telescope.
The observatory is part of the Research School of Astronomy & Astrophysics (RSAA) at the Australian National University and incorporates the Anglo-Australian Telescope (that's what we were looking at) along with a collection of other telescopes owned by the Australian National University, the University of New South Wales, and other institutions.
Some years ago, Warrumbungles National Park was formerly recognised as Australia's first Dark Sky Park. Low humidity and high elevation make it ideal to view the night sky (including the milky way) in all its glory. Just the place for a telescope.
We finished our day with a lovely walk at White Gums Lookout - a paved wheelchair-accessible walk to a lookout with a spectacular view of the Grand High Tops, Bluff Mountain and Mount Exmouth.
Back to camp where we again joined our neighbours around the campfire and the glorious sunset where split rock turns orange as the sun goes down.
Up early this morning for a walk through Burbie Canyon before breakfast. Initially, we walked along the road from the campground before heading up the gorge and then back along the Burbie Fire Trail to the Split Rock carpark and across the road to camp.
After breakfast and a lazy morning, we returned to the visitors centre and took the Gurianawa Track, a one-kilometre paved circuit with views of Grand High Tops and Siding Springs Observatory.
Back at camp we lit our fire and watched the mountain turn orange once again.
Toast and coffee this morning before driving to Pincham Carpark for the walk and climb (1,000 steps) through a eucalypt forest to Fans Horizon (so-called as it was the favourite spot of Fanny Gould 1902-2004 who was the wife of Coonabarabran Town Clerk) on the top of Balgatan Mountain. The views of the Breadknife, Belougery Spire and Crater Bluff. were pretty special despite the fact that it was quite icy at the top.
Back to Siding Springs Observatory cafe for lunch. Much better this time - found a more extensive menu. Jill smashed avo on G/f toast with bacon, tomato and egg, Alex a schnitzel and salad.
A campfire again tonight. It's very cold and not to long before we retire inside where we very much appreciate that we have a diesel heater - best thing since sliced bread.
To Tara Cave for an early morning walk. A lovely walk, starting at the Woolshed Picnic Area with some of it paved. There were lots of interpretive signs about bush tucker foods, tools, basket making, boomerangs, spears etc.
Interesting that this part of the park had lots of wild pig activity - quite a large area near the creek that had been dug up. A pig trap indicated that National Parks were "on the case".
Tara Cave is a rock shelter that was used by the Aboriginal people for thousands of years and was used until around 1850. There are interesting tool-making grooves, created thousands of years ago, at the front of the shelter which are visible from the viewing area.
Great view of the Grand High Tops as we approached the cave.
There's quite an extensive walkway constructed at the cave and it's caged these days to avoid further vandalism and protection of the public - as some of the cave had collapsed.
After breakfast, we packed up and headed for Coonabarabran for supermarket, dump point, water and lunch.
On towards Coolah, calling in at the black stump along the way. Coolah is one of several towns to claim bragging rights as the home of the legendary Black Stump. It was here that the colloquial saying ‘Beyond the Black Stump’, meaning ‘beyond the limits of civilisation,’ is said to have originated. Supporting Coolah’s claim is a document showing land boundaries declared by Governor Darling in 1826. This boundary line passes through the centre of a property known as ‘Black Stump Run’.
A brief stop at Coolah Information Centre to pick up some brochures on Coolah Tops. Then the 25km drive up the mountain to the Barracks Campground.
Very cold up here so fortunately we had a huge firepit and plenty of firewood. We were joined by Mark from East Geelong who had been working at a BlazeAid Camp in the Coolah district - and lots of kangaroos.
In Coolah Tops we are camping among the stringy barks and snow gums - and a stand of pines that were planted back in the day by the forestry. The stringybarks were milled last century for railway sleepers and were sent all over the world.
There has been a lot of damage in the Park with lots of areas still closed off. Apparently, there was a huge snowdrop last winter and as trees were already stressed from the drought the weight of the snow broke limbs off trees. Recent rains had also added to the problems and closed some of the walks and camps.
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All tracks to the east of the park were closed. From the Barracks Campground, we could travel as far as the Pinnacle and Bundella Lookouts to the North (where we overlooked the Liverpool Plains and Goran Lake which was interesting we having lived not far away in Curlewis back in the 1970s) and as far as Brackens Hut to the south.
Later in the afternoon, we took a walk to some huge grass trees - so different to what we expect to see on the coast.
The forecast was for heavy rain today so, seeing we had seen all that we could access, we packed up and headed down the mountain (just as the rain started) to Coolah where we hoped to have breakfast. The Bakery got a pretty good wrap on Google but unfortunately, they had nothing g/f apart from cakes. A bit early for cake. The coffee was good all the same.
As it was raining we decided that a caravan park and some washing might be the plan so we headed for Dunedoo. After setting up in the nice little caravan park it was off to the White Rose cafe for lunch - Avo on toast for Jill, a burger for Alex, both entirely satisfactory and a table in the front window where we could watch the passing parade over lunch.
After a wander around the streets (rain has eased a little) we headed back to the van for that washing. Dinner at the pub which was also very satisfactory.
Back to the White Rose cafe for breakfast and then on the road to visit family at Mullaley.
Called into the pub at Tamber Springs for lunch - a prawn laksa. Jill was impressed as the lady in the kitchen made hers on rice noodles instead of egg noodles. It was good.
Raining again today and very wet at Steve and Kay's. Kay's garden is always impressive and the countryside is green. Their dam is very full. Went for a drive with Steve to check on a new bull he has just purchased. Amazed at how wet the countryside is.
There's always Koalas at Kay and Steve's but none at the moment, unfortunately. They disappeared during the drought and haven't yet returned.
Andrew, Renee, Erin and Ewan called in this morning on their way to Sydney. Nice to see them as it's been a while.
After lunch, we headed for Quirindi, calling in at Curlewis on the way. It hasn't changed a lot since we were there in the early 1970s. A few more houses but no butchers shop anymore.
We set up camp in the "little" caravan park in Quirindi and went for a walk around the sports field - lovely sunset colours and lots of fallen autumn leaves.
Dinner at the Chinese Restaurant, including Rainbow Beef (my mum's favourite)
Went for an early walk before breakfast and then on to cousin Gwen and husband Geoff's for a catch-up and morning tea. Checked out Geoff's latest project, the old truck from "Fairview". Also checked out what Gwen had been sewing.
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| One restored and one to be restored |
On to Willow Tree (where Alex spent his childhood). Nice to see the town reinventing itself. This started some years ago with the "rebirth" of the Willow Tree pub (and restaurant) but has now spread to other buildings - the old derelict garage becoming a marketplace, the old station agency across the road now a gallery. Purchased some wooden coasters and a cookery book. The old butcher shop now deals in canvas and leatherwork. All good to see.
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| Owen Thomas's old Northern Garage, now a Market Place |
Back to Quirindi and as we had been checking out cemeteries called into the Quirindi cemetery for Mum and Dad (Benham's) graves.
Dinner at the Imperial Hotel, just up the road from the Caravan Park.
Visited cousins Geoffrey and Margaret this morning. They've recently moved into Quirindi from their property in Wallabadah. They have a lovely spot with a great view over the town and to the mountains.
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| Quirindi main street |
Drove past Mum's old house (very little change) and picked up the van, filled up with water (Not as good as Mullum's water, may have to buy some for drinking) before heading north to Uralla.
Lunch and a few things from the supermarket in Tamworth after calling into Bunnings trying to source a new catch for the door of the van. No luck
Set up in the Uralla Showgrounds after waiting at the gate for the caretaker. It's raining again!
Regular travelling companions Arthur and Margaret with friends Terry and Dorothy (who they're travelling with) arrived soon after. They're on their way south and after a phone call this morning we decided to meet in Uralla.
Went to dinner at the Top Pub. Top meals as well. We were all very happy with our selections. The pub was very busy and we had a table in the beer garden. We were a bit nervous about the weather as it was cold and the rain was around. The 4 big heaters above us solved the cold problem and the rain stayed away. A pleasant evening out with the fairy lights.
Jill woke with a headache so we were up fairly early for a walk around the showground. Lots of wood ducks around and in a large dead tree. There were lots of hollows in the tree so perhaps they were nesting there.
Arthur, Margaret, Terry and Dorothy were packed up early and headed south while we had a leisurely start with toast and coffee.
Pretty impressed with the showground. Plenty of room and even a dump point which we made use of before heading north.
Called into Guyra for lunch at a lovely little cafe called Juneil's (came up No 1 on google for "best coffee in Guyra" and yes it was good. Jill also bought an essential oil blend called Breathe Easy (lemon, eucalyptus, rosemary and Tea tree) for the little diffuser we have in the van. Yummy toasted wraps for lunch.
For camp tonight we decided to head off the highway (a little) to the Ben Lomond Recreation Ground. We had it to ourselves and the sun came out as we were setting up camp.
Ben Lomond is a tiny village with nothing much other than a historical Railway Station. Even what was the general store has closed down. There is signage at the rec grounds outlining various walks which we found valuable and made use of. Checked out the Railway station and a local echidna and a little stroll around town which the many barking dogs probably didn't approve of.
Lovely sunset tonight.
The Yellow Walk this morning around the very quiet streets of Ben Lomond. It was obviously quite a big place in years gone by with three churches. Google tells me there were 230 houses in the 1930s but it doesn't tell me why it was such a large village - more research is required. There's not a lot there now but the 2+km walk was lovely and the village had a "community" feel about it. Interestingly at 1,370m elevation Ben Lomond is the highest village in Northern NSW - beaten by Perisher in the alps at 1,721m (and a few others) as the highest in Australia.
Called in at Glen Innes, filled a gas cylinder and the Prado, called in at Coles for some groceries and the National Parks Office for some information on Gibraltar Range National Park and Mulligan's Hut Camping Area.
Collected some firewood along the way and called into Rasberry Lookout just inside the western boundary of Gibraltar National Park. Spectacular views over the Bindery-Mann Wilderness Area.
Arrived at Mulligan's Camp Ground mid-afternoon to find that all the sites are quite small and not well set up for a van eg fireplaces on the wrong side. We did get the camper into one with a lot of mucking around and jacking to get it level.
Walked down to Little Dandahra Creek (which isn't little at all with lots of water) and checked out Mulligan's Hut. The spot has an interesting history. Bill Mulligan built the hut here in the early 1900s with the intent of building a hydroelectric scheme to power a copper mine further east in the foothills of the range. He got as far as building two were on Dandahra and Little Dandahra Creeks. For various reasons the scheme never went ahead but the weirs and the hut (restored) remain.
Dinner on the campfire tonight.
Walked to Bura Nula Cascades (600m return) before breakfast. There certainly is a lot of water in these hills.
The track goes through a variety of vegetation, from eucalypt forest, then rainforest and then back into eucalypt.
Back to camp to recover! A rest, a read, a bit of birdwatching and dinner on the campfire again tonight.
