Saturday, April 1st 2017 – Gold Coast to Christchurch

Off to New Zealand's South Island for a few weeks with 2 of our grandchildren, Aylee and Nate.  The adventure started straight away, as on the way to the airport at the Gold Coast we got as far as the Bogangar interchange to find the highway closed because of flooding.   We knew it was closed yesterday because of the rain depression following Cyclone Debbie, but were unaware that that was still the case.  It looked like the trip might be over before it began.   We decided to go back to the Pottsville turn-off and try the Pottsville to Kingscliff road.  Bradley was in the back seat and he checked on the phone to find out that it was open.  We were still a little concerned about getting back onto the highway at Chinderah as it is pretty low at that point, but we had no worries.   We were on our way.

Arrived at the airport and sent Bradley back home with the car, and then faced the electronic system for boarding passes and baggage.   What a pain!!   I do like being served by a real person.   We were through the boarding gates without too much trouble - I had to remove my belt.   Emigration is electronic as well, although for some reason the machine didn't like my passport and I had to talk to real people.

Take off was very smooth.   Lots of water around from the floods.   Dinner was a bit of a palaver.  Didn't have everything on the menu and my credit card didn't work.    Hope that is not a sign of things to come.   Just as well one travels with more than one credit card.  There was some turbulence about mid way through the flight but otherwise all was uneventful.  Jetstar is very basic, even for flights across the ditch – not even a screen so no movie to watch for the 3 hour flight.

On landing in Christchurch we had a bit of excitement when Aylee was asked by the airport police to be a guinea pig, and carry in some "contraband" to test the skill of one of the sniffer dogs.  The dog passed.  Once through customs we headed to the Spark shop (NZ Telstra) and picked up some sim cards.  One for a phone and a couple of data cards for devices.  It seems we can’t do without keeping in touch with the world.

The taxi got us to our accommodation at around 11pm which is not quite as bad as it sounds, as we are two hours ahead of NSW time.

We have a two bedroom unit at the Christchurch Motel - very comfortable.  Aylee made some hot chocolate and we were off to bed.

Sunday 2nd April 2017 - Christchurch

We all slept well and were eventually up about 8am to set off and find some breakfast down the road at Westfield Shopping Centre.  Of course there was nothing open at that time of day, but a kind security man pointed us towards Drexel’s just around the corner.  This was obviously a popular breakfast establishment as it was packed.  The kind lady, however, finding out that we had only landed last night, said she would see what she could do about finding us a table, instead of sending us on our way.  Sure enough, after a ten-minute wait, we had, a table and a great breakfast.

We were now only a few blocks from Hagley Park so we decided to walk the rest of the way into town. Hagley Park was pretty amazing. lots of English trees, including acorns.  From the park we crossed the Avon River into the Botanical Gardens - another amazing spot.  Lots of water and lovely gardens.  

Christchurch Botanical Gardens

At the end of the gardens, near the museum, we even got to sit in the cockpit of a Boeing 737, part of the museum display for New Zealand Airlines.

Air New Zealand Museum feature

From there we hopped on the Christchurch Tram (restored vintage trams which rattle around the Christchurch CBD).  Very cute.  As we headed east the extent of the earthquake damage became obvious.  While Christchurch is slowly rebuilding, there is still lots to do.  We hopped off at Cathedral Junction and headed on foot a few blocks east to the Cardboard Cathedral.  What an amazing spot.  Constructed with lower walls of 8 containers, the high ceiling is made with cardboard cylinders with an outer roof of clear polycarbonate sheet.

Downtown Christchurch

Back towards the CBD, we again hopped on the tram for a circuit back to a lunch spot at New Regent Street.  Before lunch, however, we had to visit the playground we were told about.  What a great spot.  Lots of slippery dips and other climbing and swinging apparatus as well as an excellent water play area.  Both Aylee and Nate had a great time.

Lunch turned out to be a double ice-cream/sorbet before catching a taxi out to Willowbank Wildlife Park.  We were booked in for the Kiwi Tour and Ko Tane Maori performance and dinner from 4:30 but went earlier to have a look around.  We had a great time.  Highly recommended.  The highlights were feeding the eels, the lemurs and the New Zealand natives, particularly the Kea, the Kaka and the Kiwi.  

The 4:30 tour gave us the opportunity to revisit the natives with lots of commentary.  As there was only about a dozen of us in the group it was excellent, as was the following introduction to Maori life.  For dinner there were only 7 of us.  We 4, plus another Australian couple and a German chap.  Dinner was enjoyable, and we got to feed the deer as a bonus.

A taxi back to the Christchurch Motel and it's time for bed.  It was an exhausting (in a nice way) day.

Monday, 3rd April 2017 - Christchurch to Rakaia

When we got up this morning it was raining, which meant heading down the street for breakfast was a bit problematic.  Instead I (Alex) donned my raincoat to see what could be found.  Initially the only thing open was a bakery so a couple of scrolls were purchased for Aylee and Nate.  Fortunately on the way back to the motel I found a convenience store opening up and purchased some bread, butter, peanut butter and jam.  Toast for breakfast with a cup of hot chocolate made by Aylee.

After breakfast we ordered a taxi and set of for the Mighty Depot to pick up our motorhome.  That took some time, as there was a long queue.  There was lot of self-registering on a tablet plus a couple of videos to watch on the vehicle operation and New Zealand road rules.  All quite efficient.

Gertie (after her number plate), our VW motorhome is an ex Maui vehicle so is a bit better set up than we imagined.  Mighty is the third tier of the Maui, Britz, Mighty company but there is certainly nothing wrong with Gertie even though she has a little over 200,000 km on the clock.

First stop was the Antarctic Centre, a great spot, where we viewed penguins, participated in a simulated Antarctic Storm and viewed lots of other information about life in the Antarctic.  Well worth the stop.

The Antarctic Centre

After lunch at the Centre we headed off to the closest supermarket, Countdown (obviously owned by Woolworths - at least it also uses the Woolworths symbol and Homebrand) to stock up on supplies before "hitting the road".

Our intention today was to camp at Lake Tekapo, but as we were getting away much later then intended an alternative was needed.  We ended up at Rakaia River Caravan Park, quite a nice park on the Rakaia River (obviously) which, incidentally, is crossed by the longest bridge in New Zealand.

We had a bit of a wander around the park, checked out the games room and excellent play structure, before setting up the motorhome for sleeping - Aylee above the cab, Nate on the seat and Jill and I in the converted diner down the back.

We're pretty impressed with Gertie.  She drives well and is pretty comfortable even though a little cramped for the 4 of us.

Dinner tonight was gourmet baked beans (meaning with egg and tomato) for Jill and I and spaghetti for Aylee and Nate in the very well-equipped Camp Kitchen.  Quite satisfactory.  Then a little bit of homework (for all of us) before bed.

Tuesday, 4th April 2017 - Rakaia to Lake Pukaki

After breakfast in the Camp kitchen we were back on the road, heading south through Ashburton to Rangitata, where we turned west to Geraldine - a morning tea stop of hot drinks and a snack at the bakery, followed by a visit to the op shop for some towels for the floor of the Motorhome.  It's still raining on and off so they were needed.  Of course we ended up with books, a few clothing items and other paraphernalia - all for $3.  We gave them a $2 tip.

Next stop was Fairlie, where we topped up with fuel before heading into the hills to Lake Tekapo.  

What a lovely spot.  Obviously a very popular tourist spot as well.  After a photo stop at The Church of the Good Shepherd we headed for Lake Pukaki, where we planned to camp in a "freebie" for the night.

At the bottom of the lake we called into the information centre where they were selling local salmon (there's a salmon farm on the lake) - just what we needed for dinner.

It was mid-afternoon when we set up camp at The Pines camp spot.  Initially we parked up on a hill and had a late lunch.  Even got out our chairs and table.  We then decided that we might be taking a chance if the predicted rains arrived – apparently Cyclone Debbie, now finished with Australia, is heading for New Zealand.  To get where we were, we had driven through a low area that could become very muddy after rain.

After relocating to a safer spot we did some exploring along the edge of the lake.  Some very interesting rock formations of sedimentary rock.  We are looking across at Mount Cook but the cloud is very low today so unfortunately there's not a lot to see.

We weren't overly impressed with the salmon for dinner.  It had a strange consistency.  Not as firm as one would expect.  Perhaps it was our cooking.  It looked pretty good though.

Wednesday 5th April 2017 - Lake Pukaki to White Horse Hill

Very cold this morning so we set off before breakfast to warm the van up a bit.  We called in to the Information Centre (to use their toilets) and then travelled north along Lake Pukaki towards Mount Cook.  Along the way we called into a lookout where, in addition to having breakfast, Nate ran off some energy on the shore of the lake.  

It's interesting how the vegetation has changed to an alpine variety.  Still quite a lot of sheep however.  We wonder what happens to them when it snows in the winter.

We arrived at Mount Cook village just before lunch, and headed to the information centre to find out about White Horse Hill camping area and the Hooker Valley Track, which we hoped to do this afternoon.  We also picked up some postcards of what Mount Cook was like on a fine day, as the peaks today are still covered in cloud.

On to the camping area, where we set up camp and had lunch before setting off.

The pamphlet said 3 hours return, but it took us 4 hours.  

We did spend a bit of time at the Hooker Lake however, as the man in the information centre said we might find some ice from the glacier.  Not today however.

The track was in excellent condition.  Lots of wooden walkways and three fairly new swinging bridges.  At one spot we looked up the Mueller Glacier Valley but couldn't see the glacier (although at one spot along the track we may have caught a glimpse).  We could see snow up the slopes however.  At Hooker Lake there is a lookout looking out towards Hooker Glacier in the distance.  We expected to see an ice river.  It was there but was covered completely with gravel, except for the face, where we could see areas of blue ice.  On the way back we called into a memorial to those who have lost their lives on Mount Cook, and also Freda's rock (a rock where Freda du Faur had her photo taken after being the first women to climb Mount Cook in 1910).  It was a great walk even though most of us were completely exhausted on our return.

Back at camp we had crackers and fruit before cooking dinner (sausages and potatoes - we forgot to buy some peas).  We won’t be long out of bed tonight.

Thursday 6th April 2017 - White Horse Hill to Omarama

It was only 8 degrees in the Motorhome this morning (only 5 degrees outside as we discovered when we set off a bit later).  Up for a walk with our raincoats on as there has been some rain during the night and there's still a bit of a drizzle.  The Keas are about and living up to their mischievous reputation, as we spot one having a chew on the window rubber and radio aerial of a ranger's vehicle.  We saw a few other birds around and some rabbits.

We've decided it's a good plan to set off before breakfast when it’s cold so that the heater warms up the van a bit.  Today we headed for the car park of Tasman Glacier.  After breakfast it is still drizzling (glad we did the Hooker Valley Track yesterday rather than leaving it until this morning) so we donned the raincoats again and climbed (and I mean climbed - although there were steps) to the top of the hill on the Tasman Glacier View Walk.  At 23.5 kilometres in length, Tasman Glacier is still New Zealand's longest glacier, although it has shrunk considerably from the 1990s onwards.  It is as much as 4 kilometres wide and 600 metres thick.  Like the Hooker Glacier, the glacier is entirely rock-covered. Interestingly, the rock cover helps insulate the ice from the sunlight and slows down the melting process.

It was worth the climb.  We had quite a spectacular view over Tasman Lake (icebergs and all) towards the glacier in the distance.  The view would be even more spectacular on a fine day with Mount Cook in the background.  We also looked down on Blue Lakes, which are now green.  They were called Blue Lakes because historically they were below the level of the nearby glacier and the blue water used to seep through from the glacier.  They even used it as a skating rink in winter.  The glacier has now receded so much that it is well below the level of the lake, which now fills with rainwater.  Being warmer it also supports green algal growth.  At the lookout, they had some pictures of how much the glacier has changed over the years.  If one is not sure if global warming exists, here's a good place to observe it in practice.

Back on the road we retraced our steps along the shore of the beautiful Lake Pukaki and then on to Twizel, a hydroelectric town built in 1968, where we had an enjoyable lunch at The Musterers Hut and did some grocery shopping at the 4 Square Supermarket.

Camp for the night was a little further down the road at Omarama, where we decided we needed power at the Top 10 Caravan Park.  Time to recharge the van's battery (the only weak point we've found with the Motorhome so far) as well us visit a dump point and do some clothes washing - it's good to have clean clothes and clean bodies occasionally.  Aylee and Nate, having missed their own cats, spent some time with Otis and Claws.  Otis, a huge ginger cat, even followed them back to the camper.  We also made good use of the camp kitchen to cook our Spaghetti Bol.  A bit more room than in the Camper.

Friday 7th April 2017 - Omarama to Oamaru

We awoke to sunshine this morning and frost on the ground.  As we had power and an electric heater in the van we took our time over bacon, eggs, tomato and mushrooms.  Nate and Aylee even had time to reacquaint themselves with Otis and Claws.

As we left Omarama we could see snow caped peaks all around us - just what we had been missing the last couple of days. 

Hopefully we will get another chance at viewing Mount Cook from the west coast.  Not that we're complaining mind you.  Our drizzle over the last few days is nothing compared to what Debbie has been dropping on the north island.

We’re still in hydroelectric country and passed several lakes (Aviemore and Waitaki) and their power stations before hitting the lower country.  

Between Waikaura and Duntroon we stopped to view some Maori Rock Art - nothing like the rock art of the Australian Aborigine but interesting all the same.

A little further on we called into a fruit stall and picked up some peaches, nectarines and peacherines - the last of the season.

We had decided to stop at Oamaru for the night for the possibility of seeing penguins.  On arriving at around 12:30 we set up at the Harbourside Tourist Park which has this great playground next door.  Just what Nate and Aylee needed!  

After lunch we walked to historic port area.  On the way we found some tree engravings of native animals - nicely done. 

The port area is reinvented warehouses - mostly art and craft workshops and galleries.  The port once played an important part in the imports and exports from the district but closed in the 1970s.

After a quick return to the caravan park to pick up coats, (the weather was turning quite cold) with an ice-cream along the way, we headed back to the Steampunk Headquarters.  A sort of a museum of all sorts of gadgets and sculptures created by various people.  Most were quite bizarre but very interesting.  Most impressive was the Portal - actually a mirrored room with hanging lights.  Because of the mirrors the lights stretched to infinity and with changes in colours and intensity, along with a sound track, which was most effective.  They even have a Steampunk Festival in June.

Dinner was across the road at the Star and Garter.  The reviews said that there chowder was wonderful and it didn't disappoint.

After dinner we went penguin spotting.  Apparently they nest underneath the caravan park camp kitchen but at this time of year the chicks had probably left. 

We could have paid to see the penguin parade but chose not to take the 'artificial' commercial route and just kept our eyes open along the foreshore.  We were rewarded with the sighting of a single penguin just on dusk and another a little later when Aylee and Alex went for a walk.

Saturday 8th April 2017 - Oamaru to Portobello

The weather is much warmer this morning and we were on the road sooner (even including breakfast and a play on the playground for Nate). 

First stop was for fuel and a few supplies before driving 20 plus kilometres down the coast to Moeraki Boulders on Koekohe Beach.  What unusual landforms.  The boulders are a group of very large spherical “stones”.  Scientists explain the boulders as calcite concretions that have been exposed through shoreline erosion from coastal cliffs, that back the beach, and are believed to have originally formed in ancient sea floor sediments around 60 million years ago.  According to Maori legend, the boulders are gourds washed ashore from the great voyaging canoe Araiteuru when it was wrecked upon landfall in New Zealand hundreds of years ago.

Moeraki Boulders

 We walked down the beach to the boulders and then back along an inland route. 

Next stop was Katiki Point Lighthouse (along quite a corrugated gravel road - we were surprised that no wine glasses were broken) and a walk down to the beach where we watched New Zealand Fur Seals and at least one Hookers Sea Lion play and sleep on the beach and rocks.  A lovely spot with no one else there when we first arrived.  No penguins though.

From here it was quite a drive to Dunedin, where we just had to look at Baldwin Street which happens to be the steepest street in the world.  Nate actually walked/ran all the way to the top while the rest of us watched from part way up.

After a look at the historic railway station (very beautiful) we headed for Portobello on the Otago Peninsula, where we booked into the Portobello Village Tourist Park for a late lunch.  

Dunedin Railway Station

It was then on to the Royal Albatross Centre, where we spent the rest of the afternoon before going on the penguin tour at 6:30pm.

There were quite a few Royal Albatross flying around.  Such amazing birds.
Tonight the penguins didn't disappoint, despite a very noisy cruise liner departing Otago Harbour just as they were about to come ashore.  Numbers were down a bit on last night but there were over 20 come ashore in ‘rafts’.  Such wonderful little creatures.

Back to the Caravan Park for a late dinner, microwaved pies for Aylee and Nate and some chicken "thingoes" for Jill and I.

                                             

Sunday 9th April 2017 - Portobello to Henry Creek (north of Te Anau)

Mostly a travel day today.  As we are a little behind in our planned schedule, we have decided to abandon the idea of travelling to Te Anau via Invercargill and instead head straight across to Te Anau catching up on our lost day (created by having a longer wait than expected to pick up the van and spending more time at the Antarctic centre then planned).

After a breakfast of bacon and eggs in the camper and a drive back along the very pretty Otago Harbour, followed by some grocery shopping at Countdown, we headed south along Route 1 to Balclutha.  The bay was very different this morning at low tide compared to high tide yesterday, where the water was almost lapping the road.

From Balclutha we headed west (still on route 1) to Gore, where we had lunch in the Gore Gardens.  The roses were just amazing.  

Here we left Route 1 and continued further north-west to Lumsden and then on to Te Anau.  The countryside today has been predominately farming.  Lots of irrigation, lots of sheep, and quite a few deer.  At one point we passed a number of wind generators up on the hill.

We stopped briefly at Te Anau, a very obvious tourist town (cost $1 to use the toilet) and continued on to a Department of Conservation campsite at Henry Creek about 20 minutes north of Te Anau.  What a lovely spot.  Right on Lake Te Anau.  We had nibbles and drinks on the "beach" covered in pebbles looking across the lake at the mountains.  Aylee and Nate enjoyed themselves burying each other in pebbles.  “My sort of beach”, Aylee says, "no sand””. (Jill said that for me, I didn’t say anything – Aylee)

After a beautiful sunset, we retired to the camper for a pasta dinner, a game of rummy and then off to bed.

Monday 10th April 2017 - Henry Creek to Milford Sound

We all slept in until after 8 this morning.  Must have been that we were in the forest.  We headed off towards Milford Sound before breakfast and ate a few kilometres down the road at another camping spot which was in open country a few kilometres down the road.  We even had a picnic table to eat at.

The drive to Milford Sound is a pretty one, with lots of spots to stop and "smell the roses".  The only dampener on events was that it is starting to rain again.  I guess not all that surprising seeing that it rains 182 days of the year (6,813mm) at Milford Sound.  Mirror Lakes was a pretty spot, as was the Chasm (a 15 minute walk away from the road).  Between the two we passed through a very long tunnel (one way - operated by traffic lights, fortunately). 

Mirror Lakes

Homer Tunnel

The Chasm

We arrived at Milford Sound about 12:30 and did a recce before booking in at the Motorhome section of the Milford Lodge (the only accommodation offered at Milford Sound- and you could tell, at over $80 for a powered site for the night).  We had coffees and hot chocolates at the lodge before sorting out “supplies” for the trip on the Sound that afternoon.

We drove to the car park (a couple of kilometres away) and made the 300m walk in the rain to the information centre, with plenty of time to spare as we thought we may do some souvenir hunting.  No souvenir shop - what a surprise!!  We did, however, get a poncho for Nate to replace his rain jacket, which was falling apart.

We made the trip with Mitre Peak tours, one of the smaller companies with a smaller boat.  There were only about 30 people on board.  The advantage of doing the cruise in wet weather is that all the waterfalls are running - and they were everywhere, both temporary and permanent - Bridal and Stirling being the most spectacular.  Our boat actually went right up to the falls.  The cruise was informative.  We found out that the Sound is not a Sound at all, but a Fiord- the difference being that a Fiord is made by a glacier.  It's amazing to think that the fiord is 300m deep.

Milford Sound

Milford Sound has been judged the world's top travel destination in an international survey (the 2008 Travellers’ Choice Destinations Awards by TripAdvisor) and is acclaimed as New Zealand's most famous tourist destination.  Rudyard Kipling had previously called it the Eighth Wonder of the World.

Back to camp (in the rain).  Fortunately we have power so we can keep warm and use the microwave to cook dinner.

Tuesday 11th April 2017 - Milford Sound to Twelve Mile Delta Camp-ground (10km west of Queenstown).

We awoke to a beautiful clear day and after breakfast and a quick look at the sound we retraced our steps back to Te Anau.  A different drive on a clear day.  A few more photo stops of the beautiful lakes and the tunnel.  The tunnel is actually quite steep and this time we were going up.  Called the Homer Tunnel, it is a 1.2 km long and was opened in 1953. 

We spent some time at Te Anau.  The children had a lovely play in the playground (including a double flying fox) and we had lunch at a pizza cafe.

  

Te Anau

From there it was back to Mossburn where we filled up with fuel and then headed towards Queenstown.  The drive along the shore of Lake Wakatipu is a very pretty one and the road quite an engineering marvel.  We had been warned by the man at the fuel station that Queenstown is a bit of an issue, road wise, and he was correct, it’s all a bit congested.  Although we had planned to camp the night at the DOC Campsite, Twelve Mile Delta (about 10km west of town) we still had to drive through downtown Queenstown to get there. The roads are quite narrow and there is a bit of winding in and out of streets.  Not something to be looked forward in a Motorhome.

Twelve Mile Delta is on the shore of Lake Wakatipu.  And guess what?  It's raining again.