8th ~ 22nd October 2019 - FIJI

Tuesday, 8 October 2019 - To Nandi

We left home around 6am (NSW Daylight Saving Time) for the slow trip to Brisbane Airport.  We dropped the car for storage at Apollo and took the shuttle bus to the International Terminal.

The security has changed since our last flight with the full-body scans.  Alex even got a pat-down owing to "something" in his right pocket - probably a stud on the pocket of his shorts!

Had breakfast at the coffee club (even saw Ann, David and Fred Bernard who were off to Vanuatu).

The flight was uneventful - lots of tiny islands in a vast ocean.  Climate change must mean so much more to these folk than us in Mullumbimby!!!  We have more legroom in this plane than the much larger aircraft that we usually fly in when heading overseas AND it's only about 3 hours travel.

Flying in to Nadi Airport the first thing you notice is that the countryside is ever so green.

Off to our accommodation after much waiting around at the airport in various queues - Sofia's Airbnb.

After a quick 'settle in' we headed around the corner for quite a nice Chinese meal before heading back to bed.

Wednesday, 9 October 2019 - Nadi

Our accommodation while in Nandi is in Namaka a short taxi ride from the airport.  We have a two-bedroom apartment.  Decision, decision, which bedroom?  It’s quite comfortable but pretty basic.  Fans in the bedrooms and a lounge and most appreciated.

Breakfast served on the verandah consisted of fresh fruit and curry (three types of curry – pumpkin was delicious, okra not so much).   You might have guessed that we are staying with a Fijian Indian family.

Breakfast at Sofia's

We took a bus to Nandi town about 30 minutes south of Namaka (a suburb).  As soon as we arrived, we were approached by a young Fijian who told us his name was Pa!  He explained that there were no Fijians at the market that we were about to enter and that he could take us to a genuine Fijian Market.  

Nandi Market

He did help us to buy some Kava from the market on the way through (a required gift for us to take to the village chief tomorrow). On the way, he was telling us of the problems the Fijian’s have competing with Indians and in more recent times the Chinese.   He took us upstairs in a building not too far away (explaining that floods had reached nearly the top of the stairs only a few years previously - a combination of ocean water, rain and poor drainage) to a market set up by one of the hill villages.  We were the ‘first customers’ of the day so we would get a discount (?) but not until Ma welcomed us with a Karva ceremony.   We ended up buying a few bits and pieces including a wooden family totem into which Ma carved our names plus the names of the children and grandchildren.  We were strongly encouraged and turtles for the girl grandchildren and shark teeth for the boys to bring good luck.   from Wallis’s for our grandchildren for good luck - we resisted.

Next Ma took us off to a clothing shop (a friend of a friend) where we bought sulus.  Jill’s was basically a sarong with straps but Alex’s was like a pair of long black shorts without a crutch.  Pretty boring (black) but it did have pockets. 


By now we had sufficiently supported the Fijian economy and were ‘melting’ so it was off to the nice cool and restful Nandi Farmers’ Club for lunch and a drink before heading back to Namaka on the bus.

Dinner tonight was an unremarkable but OK curry at a fast food place near Sofia’s.

Thursday 10 October 2019 - To Tavan Homestay

A very early breakfast this morning - fruit, naan and curry, then off to catch the bus to Denarau where we had coffee before boarding a ferry to the Yasawa Islands.  The ferry was very crowded and as the day was quite hot we ended up paying extra to travel in the captain's lounge with its airconditioning, free drinks and snacks - very nice.

The trip took 4 ½ hours, the boat stopping at many islands along the way where a small boat came alongside to collect people who were staying at various resorts on the islands.  At first there were very low coral islands and we wondered how long it would be before they are inundated by seawater.  These coral islands then gave way to volcanic islands with high mountains.

As we came to the Yasawas we were welcomed by a warrior standing on a high rock.

On approaching Nacula Island we were collected by a small boat and transported to our destination, Tevan Homestay near Naisisili Village and close to Nabua Lodge.

We were shown our accommodation – a cute little thatched bure which looks out onto the water.  It has a double bed, a single bed and a cute metal baby’s cot plus a metal ‘pram’ (like a tiny cot with a hood, wheels and a handle.  It's all pretty basic and part of the 'real' Fiji as opposed to many of the resorts we passed along the way (which could have been anywhere on earth).

We were served lunch on the verandah overlooking the water – three different shades of blue, just amazing.  We  met Aasa (rhymes with Rosa) from Denmark who is staying in another of the Bures at the homestay.

The Homestay (which also operates a 'teahouse') is operated by Salome and her husband Bill with the help of their niece Dee (probably in her early 20's). Salome runs the business and Dee does most of the looking after of the guests.

After a rest, it was off to the Naisisili Village to present our Kava to the chief.  We all had to partake sitting on a tarp (with most of the men of the village) outside the main meeting room.

Dee then showed us around the village and the afternoon 'market' where the women of the village were selling the trinkets they had made from shells, beads and palm leaves.

Back to Taven for dinner and a glorious sunset.

Nacula Island

Nacula Island is one of approximately twenty volcanic islands known as the Yasawa Island Group. Located above the touristic Mamanuca Islands, home to the infamous backpacker party island of Beachcomber, the Yasawas are less developed, more mountainous and more remote. The only way to reach them is by catamaran from Denarau on Fiji’s main island, Viti Levu, ferry from the mainland or by private seaplane.

There are no roads on the islands. No shops, no restaurants, no street lights. Tourism has only come to the Yasawas since the late 1980s and even now it is restricted to a handful of backpacker resorts with a few luxury resorts sprinkled in for good measure.

The small villages that are dotted throughout the Yasawa Islands still paint a picture of the traditional way of life before the arrival of tourism nearly 30 years ago. The main difference is that there are more job opportunities now, in the form of working at the various resorts.

This helps the villagers to sustain their traditional way of life as well as opening up other opportunities such as access to education and a chance to work overseas and on the main island: dreams that would have been hard if not impossible to accomplish before the arrival of tourism to the islands. Nacula Island is the third-largest island in the Yasawas and is home to four traditional villages (Nacula village, Malakati village, Naisisili village and Navotua village) as well as four backpacker resorts, clustered at the southern end of the island.

Friday 11 October 2019 - Tavan Homestay

Before breakfast this morning we went for a walk along the beach towards Nabua Lodge.  We met Bill's brother, who works at the lodge, on the beach and had a chat.  Apparently, the Lodge, Taven Homestay, Naisisili Homestay (in the village) and Safe Landing Eco Lodge (a few hundred metres to the east of Taven are all owned by members of the village and help support the village with their tourist takings.

For breakfast this morning we had lots of papaya -  it was a bit like our orange paw-paw but much sweeter. There was also instant coffee and powdered milk on the menu but we both agreed that we were too much of coffee snobs to partake.   I’m sure we’ll cope until we get back to the mainland.  There was also white toast and jam’.  Not quite the breakfast we are used to or would have expected.

After breakfast, we walked to the Blue Lagoon Resort on the other side of the island where there is good snorkelling right off the bench. HOWEVER, the 20-minute walk that Dee spoke about turned into a 1-hour 20-minute walk around the beach and across a headland, meaning we could only stay about 20 minutes before heading back for lunch.   

Alex and Aasa went snorkelling (and enjoyable it was) and Jill enjoyed a swim before the return trek – much quicker on the way back and we did make in time for lunch.

After lunch, we had a nap (the hot weather takes it out of you) and then we went for a swim just outside our door as it was high tide.  There were rocks and a rocky ledge to climb over which was a bit of a challenge but the water was very refreshing.

We also went for a wander around to Safe Landing for an afternoon drink.  Tandrai Point is quite an impressive spot to take photographs from.

Dinner included land crabs (the ones that dig holes in the garden and along the path).  They were cooked with coconut milk (and put back into their shell) but the taste was still very strong.

After dinner, we went down to the lookout point near Nabua Lodge to watch the sunset.  Once again spectacular.

Saturday 12 October 2019 - Tavan Homestay and Sawa i Lau Sea Caves

After breakfast, which consisted of pineapple juice (cordial),  naan parcels of potato curry  and pancakes followed with black tea (the only milk available here is powdered) we headed off along the beach to the resort next door, Nebula Lodge, where we paid $85.00 each,  got in a boat and went to the Sawa I Lau Sea Caves – quite a distance in the small boat to another island.  

Alex went into the caves - quite an amazing spot.  The first cave was accessed by stairs into a pool of water and was an area approximately 20 metres by 10 metres. Fortunately, there was an area where you could stand so you didn’t have to tread water all the time.  The roof was not complete with a hole in it to one side so there was plenty of light – quite amazing cathedral ceilings.  Apparently, the caves are made of limestone but different to any I’ve seen before – dry rock rather than wet.  The pool inside the cave was quite deep and you could see the bottom with your mask on.  Interesting that there were no fish.

To get in the inner cave, one had to dive through a small underwater tunnel (probably only a couple of metres but still not for the faint-hearted).  The guides assistant and there was a torch on in the inner cave, which was fortunate as it was so dark.   Once inside you could hang on to a raft made from a rectangle of poly pipe and we paddled to the end of the cave (probably 20 metres) where there was a “chimney” opening to the top of the cave.  It was all quite an experience.

While this was happening, Jill spent some time on the beach and checked out the little market stalls. We bought a tablecloth with a map of Fiji on it.

Back at Nabua Lodge, we had a drink at the bar before the walk back to Taven Homestay for lunch – a huge plate of fried rice and tuna.   

A nap for both of us in the afternoon, awake in time for afternoon tea (fresh Coconut).

Then it was a stroll to Safe Landing Resort for a beer/wine and a sunset with Aasa.

Sawa i Lau Sea Caves 

According to legend, a young chief once hid with his betrothed in the cave after her family threatened to marry her off to a rival chief. Every day he would swim into this secret haven with food for the girl until they eventually both escaped to an island together, where they lived happily forever. The sacred Sawa-I-Lau Caves are also known as the resting place of the 10-headed ancient Fijian god, Ulutini. 

Sunday 13 October 2019 - Tavan Homestay

Sundays are special days in Fiji.

To begin, we had breakfast with the family - Salome, Bill, Dee and Billy and also fellow visitor, Aasa, from Denmark.  Usually, we and Aasa just eat on the verandah and the others eat at some other time,  For breakfast, there was corn (not sweet corn - so a bit tough), mango (very delicious and the first we've had in Fiji - perhaps they are only just beginning to ripen), cake (made with coconut with yellow jelly topping and not too much sugar - delicious) and tea.

After breakfast, we dressed in our Sulus ready for church.  Bill bought out a tie for Alex to wear and Dee found a shawl for Jill.  

The walk from the teahouse to the village church (Methodist) was a bit of a walk and the day was quite hot - and it was even hotter in the church even though all the shutters were open as were the double doors both ends.  The service was all in Fijian so was a bit hard to understand what was going on.  As you would expect there was lots of singing which was lovely.

Sunday is also the day of rest so we rested ....

And an evening drink at Safe Landing

Monday 14 October 2019 - Tavan Homestay

Up fairly early this morning and a walk around some of the tracks near the homestay.  It's Monday morning and the children are off to school.  They attend school at the other end of Nacula Island, leaving by boat on Monday morning, staying there during the week and returning Friday afternoon.

After breakfast (well at 10am actually)  we headed off to Solome’s Pre-school in the village where the children sang songs to us, some in Fijian and some in English.   Some individual children also sang songs and then they all had morning tea.  The five-year-old children set in a circle on the floor while the four-year-old children were on little chairs at tables.  The five-year-olds will go to school with the older children next year.  It's very young to be separated from their families for the whole week.  

We had a wander around the village.  All the men (including Bill) were working on an addition Bure for the village homestay.

After lunch, we both had a nap in the and then went for a swim near the Homestay.  Often in the afternoon people (guests at Nabua Lodge and Safe Landing) come to the tea house (which Solome also runs - she's a busy lady) for tea and cakes.

Another lovely sunset this evening, again while we are having drinks with Aasa at Safe Landing.

Tuesday 15 October 2019 - Tavan Homestay to Wyndham Resort, Denarau

Our last day on Nacula Island.

It was raining this morning and was quite wild for a while about 5:30am.  In fact, the rain came in the windows.  (shutters actually, there is no glass that we’re aware of anywhere in Naisisili Village - all the buildings just have shutters ).  We had screens to,  for the mosquitoes although there were plenty of gaps – seemed to do the job though as we haven’t noticed any mossies. 

At breakfast time it was still raining so we had breakfast inside the tea house instead of our usual spot on the verandah.  When it stopped raining we went for a walk on the beach.  We had hoped for an outing to Blue Lagoon Beach (made famous in the 1980 film “The Blue Lagoon” starring a young Brooke Shields and Christopher Atkins) by boat but it was too wet and the sea would have been too rough.  Instead, we had a nice lazy morning and read our books.

After lunch, we waded out of the boat to go and meet the Yasawa Flyer for our return trip to Denarau.  We had to sit in the boat (out to sea) for quite a while before the "flyer" turned up and there were a few mobile phone calls made to no doubt check on its progress.  Amazing that they would have mobile reception out here.

The return journey was much cooler than on the way out to the Homestay and we probably didn’t really need to be in the captain’s lounge for the airconditioning but it was still nice to spread out a bit, take our shoes off, and have snacks, drinks etc ..

We arrived at Port Denarau about 6.30 pm, picked up our gear and hopped on the transfer bus to Wyndham Resort (not too far away).   Check-in was an easy process and then it was off to dinner at the on-site Mexican restaurant where they had a Fijian Lova night (where the food is cooked in a pit).  It wasn’t all that exciting.  We were also entertained with some singing and dancing (Fijian style).

It was then an early night for us in a very comfortable bed.

Wednesday 16 October - Wyndham Resort, Denarau

Up reasonably early this morning and headed off for a walk along the beach - well mostly through the resorts (Raddison, Sheraton) as it was high tide.  It's raining a little but they have umbrellas in the unit so all is OK.

Back for breakfast at the Beach Shack near the pool and overlooking the ocean.  Very pleasant.  Had a wander around the resort and then back to our room for a restful morning.   Jill discovered the book exchange so now has a paperback to read when she finishes the book she's reading on the kindle.

John from Wyndham came around with our "welcome: gift.  He was very pleasant - not pushy like many of them.  The gift was Pure Fiji skincare products -  body butter, lotion oil, sugar rub. We booked a trip with John's cousin to go to the mud pools and sleeping giant on Monday.

Just before lunch, we caught the local Yellow Bus to the supermarket to get supplies so we don't have to go out for every meal.  It had a good selection but no mushrooms.

Dinner was here to the resort - at Mamacitas Mexican Restaurant - it was OK but not somewhere we will rush back to.

Thursday 17 October - Wyndham Resort, Denarau

A long slow breakfast here on our verandah this morning - eggs, tomatoes, bokchoy, chives, gluten-free toast, St Dalfour Rasberry jam and plunger coffee with soy milk (the only alternative to UHT cow in the supermarket).  Our verandah is quite private as we have an outside unit backing onto lawn and then a fence with a line of palms - quite lovely.

At 12 we went to a Wyndham update, hoping to find out more about Wyndham Reward points but Andrew assured us we had to have way more credits to make any use of reward points - No thanks we would rather go camping.

After lunch we went to Coconut palm leaf weaving.  Erami showed us how to make a fish and a bird - very cool.  Mind you it was rather complicated.  Jill thinks she should google "palm leaf weaving children's toys" - perhaps they would have slow step by step instructions.

We also went to the woodcarving stall and ordered a wall plaque with a map of Fiji including the Yasawas.  Kelly and/or one of the other carvers will add the words and Fijian patterns plus a turtle, shark and flowers.

Late afternoon we took the Bulla Bus ($8.00 Fijian for the day) to Denarau harbour to Bonefish, a seafood restaurant that John had recommended - an enjoyable evening, great food and lovely waitstaff.

The night was completed with a display of fire dancing at the Marina.  We were impressed.

Friday 18 October - Wyndham Resort, Denarau Island

Denarau Island

Denarau Island is a small private island on the western side of the main island of Viti Levu. The 2.55 km2 island is attached to the mainland via a short causeway and is located 5 km north-west of Nadi and 10 km west of Nadi International Airport.

Denarau is known for its hotels and resorts fringing the island with the 18-hole Denarau Golf course as its centrepiece. The resort island includes international chains such as Hilton, Sheraton, Radisson, Westin, Sofitel and Wyndham (formerly Worldmark). 

Denarau Marina is located on the island and provides sea transfer services to the island chains of the Mamanucas and the Yasawas. 

Port Denarau, as well as containing Denarau Marina, is a shopping precinct with a variety of restaurants, a supermarket, bakery, hairdressers and tour operators.

Traffic is restricted to the island with all vehicles required to enter through a checkpoint to access the resort area. 

This morning we went for a walk around and jogging track which cuts through the golf course and then heads north, east and south back to Wyndham via several resorts.   

On the way back we stopped for coffee and a bit of breakfast at Bulachino - excellent coffee although Alex's would be better if not made on UHT milk.  There appears to be no fresh milk anywhere we have been so far. 

We returned to Wyndham to do the Medicine walk with Brian.  He walked us around the resort and told us about the medicinal properties of various plants.

A quick pina colada (manufactured by Jill)  and then it was then time for our massage that we had booked in for.  We both pronounced it excellent.

We finished just in time to see the end of the International Frog Race - actually really a cane toad race!  There were a lot of excited people who had their money on the various participants (unwilling participants no doubt).

Back on the Bulla Bus to the Marina where we thought we’d try the Japanese restaurant, Taka,  tonight.  We were not that impressed - guess we're spoilt with our excellent Japanese restaurant in Mullumbimby.