Saturday 27th August 2011 Chester to Stoke-on-Trent and then Stone

Got away about 7:30 this morning for the drive to Stoke-on-Trent to drop off the car and pick up the narrowboat.  We planned to have breakfast along the way but that didn’t happen.  Had a quick look at Chester on the way through and then hit the motorway for the trip to Stoke-on-Trent.  We had quite heavy rain along the way so we were hopeful that it would fine up for the afternoon.

'Downtown' Chester

We called into ‘Black Prince’, the narrowboat company and dropped off our luggage.  Then on to Alamo to drop off the car.  The girl in the office was kind enough to drop us off at a laundrette to do our washing.  Conveniently there was a nice little coffee shop across the road – breakfast at last.

Caught a cab back to ‘Black Prince’ at 12 o’clock and was shown over the boat (Charlene) by Colin.  He also took us through the first two locks which were just out of the marina on the Trent and Mersey Canal.  We had chosen to do the Four Counties Loop which would mean we would need to be motoring for about 8 hours a day to complete it in our 7 days on the boat. The Trent and Mersey Canal is 150.5 km long and we were on it from Etruria Junction (at Stoke-on-Trent) to Haywood Junction.  It is quite narrow for much of its length, with most of the locks being only big enough for a single narrowboat, 2.1 m wide by 22 m long.

'Charlene' at the Black Prince Marina

As its name implies, the Trent and Mersey was built to link the River Trent at Derwent Mouth (in Derbyshire) to the River Mersey.  The plan of a canal connection from the Mersey to the Trent ("The Grand Trunk") came from canal engineer James Brindley.  The canal was built from 1766 -1777 and has 70 locks and five tunnels.  The Grand Trunk was a part of a larger scheme of Brindley's to link the four main rivers of England (Trent, Mersey, Severn and Thames) in a project known as the "Grand Cross".

On the Trent and Mersey Canal

It didn’t take long to get the hang of the locks – open the paddles to let the water in/out; open the gates to let the boat in; close the gate and paddles; go to the other end of the lock; open the paddles to fill/empty the lock; open the gates; drive the boat out; close the gate and the paddles; and you’re through.  We need to do that 94 times on our trip.  It doesn’t sound as if it will be too relaxing.

Initially, we travelled through the built-up area of Stoke.  Lots of defunct industry sites.  Historically there was a lot of ceramics and steel production happening here.  Soon, however, we were out in the country and followed the canal for the rest of the afternoon past Barlaston to Stone where we tied up for the night.

We had a bit of a walk back for dinner but this is not a problem.  All the canals have a towpath along their banks, used originally by horses to pull along the narrowboats.  Today they’re used by walkers, cyclists, anglers and others.  Like the public footpaths, they are a great asset to this country.

Dinner was at the Starr Inn (built in the mid 1700s), a quaint jumble of differently-sized rooms with low ceilings, solid beams and stone floors.  A notice outside informed us that it is listed in the ‘Guinness Book of Records’ as the English pub with more levels to it than any other.  We were very happy with our meal.  

The Star Inn, Stone

The town of Stone itself is an old market town and it was here that the Jacobite advance on London (that we heard so much about while in Scotland) came to an end.  After dinner, Jill and I went to see if Morrison’s would be open early in the morning (no such luck) and we went for a walk down the cobbled main street before returning to the boat.  The town was quite busy with lots of restaurants doing a roaring trade.

Sunday 28th August 2011 – Stone to Penkridge

Headed off about 7:30 this morning.  Richard and I ate breakfast in shifts so that we could add some kilometres to the journey.  We stopped at a canal-side farm just before Haywood Junction and bought some fruit and veg for dinner.  We have been motoring along beside fields of cows, draught horses and foals – and front yards with little sitting areas overlooking the canal.  Some of the narrowboats tied up “at home” have little garden sheds and tables and chairs on the bank.  Someone even had chooks in a little cage.

Fishing is popular along the canals

Turned off the Trent and Mersey Canal onto the Staffs and Worcs Canal at Haywood Junction.  The Staffordshire and Worcestershire Canal (to give it its full name) runs from the River Severn at Stourport in Worcestershire to the Trent and Mersey Canal at Haywood Junction.   James Brindley was the chief engineer of the canal and it was also part of his ‘Grand Cross’ plan for waterways connecting Hull, Liverpool and Bristol. The canal opened to trade in 1772. It was a commercial success mainly from trade created by the ‘Potteries’ (the towns where ceramics were manufactured making up modern-day Stoke on Trent).

Soon after entering the canal we crossed a little aqueduct over the Trent River (that’s pretty cute) and moored just before another over the Sow River where we walked into Milford for lunch.  Knowing where to stop is a bit of a problem.  

As it says, 'Aqueduct over the River Sow'

From the canal, it’s a bit hard to work out where things are.  We have a booklet which tells us that ‘such and such’ is after Bridge ‘X’ but it’s still a bit of a lottery.  If you pull in too short you end up with a long walk as happened today.  If you leave it too late there may be nowhere to berth (they may be all taken) and you end up a long way past where you want to stop which means a long walk back.  With operating locks and walking to ‘town’, we’re getting plenty of exercise.  Just as well the food was good at the end of our walk.  Fortunately, in most cases, the pubs are right on the water with mooring not too far away.

Watching other narrowboats go by is an interesting pastime.   Lots have flowers and vegetables growing on their roofs.  One clever trick is to put a bag of potting mix on the roof.  Put some slits in it and plant the vegetables in the slits.  Quite a lot of the boats have wood fires (firewood stacked on the roof).  Swans and cygnets regularly come up to the boats.  I guess they are looking for something to eat.  Many of the cygnets are as big as their parents.  They are indeed ugly ducklings.

We moored for the night just short of Penkridge where we plan to go to the market in the morning – Bank Holiday Monday.

Monday 29th August 2011 – Penkridge to Wheaton Aston

Away about 7:30 again this morning.  An easy run into Penkridge where we moored and had breakfast before setting off to the market.  Quite a big market.  We bought some sheep cheese (very nice) and a few other bits and pieces.

Jill ready to close the lock gate

Back on the canal.  We stopped briefly at Gailey Wharf to fill up with water and then on to the ‘Fox and Anchor’ pub for lunch.  This pub was right on the water and we were able to moor about 100m before the pub.  The food was again good.  These pubs cater well for the passing parade whether it be by boat or car.

Fox and Anchor Pub

Not too far after the pub we again turned into a new canal, this time the Shropshire Union Canal at Autherley Junction.  As you turned into the canal there is a Stop Lock (only a few inches deep).  Traditionally it was here so that tolls could be collected.  There were a group of boys only too happy to operate the paddles and gates.  It wasn’t too hard to work out that they were looking for a  handout so we tipped them a couple of pounds.  Guess you could say they are still collecting a toll.

An aqueduct over a road

The Shropshire Union Canal is quite different to those we have been on to date.  Instead of following the lie of the land, with the necessary locks to compensate, this canal was built with embankments and cuttings.  It runs from the outskirts of Wolverhampton to Ellesmere Port.  “The Shroppie” was one of the last canals to be built and was built in 1846 by the Shropshire Union Railway and Canal Company (hence the use of railway engineering with embankments and cuttings).  Consequently we had very few locks.  As you would expect, there are lots of aqueducts on this canal.  Some over other waterways, others over roads.  It’s a fascinating experience.

Drinks on the move

We moored for the night just past Wheaton Aston on an embankment.  It’s interesting looking down on the fields around from your boat.  Baked beans for tea tonight.

Tuesday 30th August 2011 - Wheaton Aston to Adderley

The man at ‘Black Prince’ told us that to get around the 4 Counties Circuit we had to be in Market Drayton by Tuesday night.  We decided that we would prefer to be a little ahead of schedule so made the decision to start at 7am this morning.  I took the first shift and we were away at 6:55.  Again through lots of cuttings and across embankments, past Little Onn and Gnosall (a very pretty little village).  We Actually went through a little tunnel (80 yards long).  Had to put our light on but it was nowhere near as difficult as we had imagined it might be.  We pulled into Norby Junction to top up with water.  We were told that while we had plenty of water for a few days it was easier to top up each day as there was not a lot of pressure and to fill the tank from empty would take ‘forever’.

Our first tunnel

From Norby Junction, we went through an area called Grub Street Cutting.  You could almost think of yourself as being in South America.  Lots of vegetation overhanging the very narrow canal.

Grub Street Cutting - Hope no-one comes the other way

Fortunately, we did not meet anyone coming the other way.  We called into The Anchor Inn which advertised canal souvenirs.  We thought (well Richard thought it would be good to have a T-shirt of the trip and I thought ‘what’s good for the goose, is good for the gander’).  The lady running the Inn informed us that they did not open until midday but did offer to open the souvenir section and sell us 2 T-shirts.

There were tall bridges

From there on was on past a Cadbury factory with a jetty on the canal that was used for supplies.  Not used anymore but interesting all the same.

Lunch today was at Wharf Tavern (right on the water).  We were able to berth opposite the pub and walk across a bridge to eat lunch.

Back on the water, we headed to Market Drayton where we arrived around 3:30 after travelling through a series of 5 locks, our first on this canal apart from the stop lock at the beginning.  Went for a walk into town.  Had a cup of coffee at ‘Butter Cross’ coffee shop and visited the supermarket for a few supplies.

And Short bridges

To get ahead of time we decided to head off again for another hour or so along the canal.  After passing through another set of 5 locks near Adderley we berthed for the night just before Coxbank.

Sat outside for a while with wine and nibbles appreciating the solitude (disturbed by one boat going past and a few cows in the nearby paddock).  Chicken salad and spuds for tea.  A game of cards then off to bed.

Wednesday 31st August 2011 – Adderley to Lea Hall

Set off again at 7am this morning.  We all had to get up as we had a series of 12 locks one after the other to get through.  We’re getting pretty good at them by now.  It’s always nice if you can catch another boat coming out as you’re approaching.  When that happens they can leave the gates open for you.  Saw a couple of hot air balloons as we were going through the locks.

Called into Audlem with the intent of having a cup of coffee and perhaps breakfast.  Cappuccino and Latte was what we were after (talk about fussy) and we could find nowhere open at 10am that could provide us with either.  Bought a few postcards and a tea towel at a canal-side shop and we were back on board to have our cereal breakfast.  We had another 3 locks to go through on the way out of Audlem.  Met one couple who were turning around after the last lock to go back up the 15 locks.  We won’t mention crazy.

Aldum

Seeing we couldn’t buy a decent coffee, we made one ourselves one on board and pushed on to Nantwich where we moored for lunch (rice-cakes, ham, salad etc).  After lunch, we passed through the Hack Green Locks (x2) passed a Nuclear Bunker set up during World War II – a radar station secretly designed to play a role as a Regional Government Headquarters in the event of a nuclear war.  Deemed redundant at the end of the cold war, it has now become a tourist attraction.  We have no time for silly business like that even if we had wanted to look.

Stable: When horse-power was used

Called into Nantwich Basin where they did serve cappuccino/latte and very good they were too.  There were lots of boats in the basin where they carry out mechanical repairs etc.  In fact, there are marinas every now and then along the canals which are always quite full of boats.  

Nantwich Basin

A couple of miles further and we turned off the main Shropshire Union Canal at Barbridge Junction onto the Middlewich Branch.  This will take us back to the Trent and Mersey Canal for the run down to Stoke-on-Trent.

Opened in 1833 the canal saw a lot of traffic in its early years – Cornish china clay in one direction, finished crockery in the other, among other things).  At one stage, on this canal, they tested the feasibility of replacing horse-power by laying a narrow-gauge railway along the towpath and using a small steam locomotive to haul a string of narrowboats.  While it didn’t take off here it did catch on aboard.

The canal gets a bit busy at times

Most of the Middlewich Branch canal is through fields.  Lots of dairy farms and a few pig farms.  You smell these before you see them.  Only a couple of locks for the rest of the afternoon – right through to almost the end of the canal, in fact.  Some pretty good spots to pull up where you overlook valleys but it was a bit soon for us.  We pushed on (nibbles and wine while we travelled) and ended up moored about 7:30 near Lea Hall.  Jennie and Jill had dinner prepared – sausages and veg.  We’re not too far from the railway line and every now and then a very fast train ‘flies’ through.

Thursday 1st September 2011 – Lea Hall to Red Bull

On the water again this morning at 7am.  I’m not sure you can actually call it on the water when we were already on it but I guess you know what I mean!  There was a lot of mist around which made things quite picturesque.

Early morning mist

We had a couple of locks and then turned off the Middlewich branch onto the Trent and Mersey at Middlewich.  This area is quite industrial including some salt factories – lots of salt piled up.  Another 4 locks before we berthed at Wheelock to fill up with water and have lunch.  The meal at the ‘Cheshire Cheese’ pub was good value but the pub could do with a bit of TLC.

Wheelock

After Wheelock it was all the way up ‘Heartbreak Hill’ as this section of the canal has been known by generations of boaters – all 250 feet of it.  There were 20 locks to keep us busy before we berthed for the evening just short of Red Bull.  We have 6 more locks in the morning (they’re included in the 250 feet) and that’s it – no more before Stoke-on-Trent.

After that many locks you certainly get up a routine and it didn’t seem to take too long.  It’s often helped by the fact that you coincide with someone coming down the lock – I’m sure I have mentioned before that this means they leave the gates open and you don’t have to empty the lock before entering it.
Soup for dinner tonight and an early night – we’re all exhausted.

Friday 2nd September 2011 – Red Bull to Stoke-on-Trent

A late start today.  It’s Richard’s birthday.

Jill and I got up and went for a walk about 7am.  Back to the boat for a relaxing breakfast.

After breakfast, we set off to do 5 of the final 6 locks.  Moored the boat at Kidsgrove and went for a walk to find a coffee shop and then Tesco’s to buy a few ‘birthday’ things.  Richard had a haircut while we were in Tesco’s.  By the time he got back to the boat we had some bunting around the front of the boat (so he couldn’t miss us).  While we were in the coffee shop a couple told us that the Red Bull pub had good food so it was here we ended up for lunch.  The food was good.  Probably the best pub food we’ve had in England.

Birthday lunch at the Red Bull

After lunch, we went through our last lock and queued up for the Harecastle tunnel which runs through Harecastle Hill. Interesting that the water here is a very rusty colour – from the ironstone in the area (mined at one stage).

This is how you open a lock gate

The original tunnel was built in 1777 and boats were propelled through by ‘leggers’, men lying on their backs on the roof of the boat literally ‘walking’ on the ceiling of the tunnel from one end to the other.  It took two to three hours to travel the 1 ¾ miles.  The tunnel we were in was built in 1827 (2926 yards – 8.5 million bricks) and had a towpath enabling boats to be pulled through by horses.  In 1914 electric tugs were used.  They dragged themselves through on cables laid on the canal bed with the electric cable running along the roof.  In 1954 forced ventilation was introduced enabling boats to pass through under their own power.  The tunnel was closed from 1973-77 when it was completely refurbished, removing the towpath at the same time.

Harecastle Tunnel

There is a Tunnel Keeper at each end and they let 8 boats at a time through.  I guess there would be quite a wait if you just missed the eight from your side and had to wait for the eight to come through from the other side.  In our case, we had a 30-minute wait for five boats to come through and we were the third boat in our group.  Naturally, it’s very dark inside (you have a headlight and you switch on all internal lights).  There isn’t much room and the roof is very low so it’s quite a challenge to ‘keep on the ball’.  Fortunately, we were aware of the possibility of the doors closing and the extractor fan switching on.  Even so when this happened as we approached the other end and were appreciating the fact that we could see daylight and the trip was almost over - doors suddenly shutting out the light and the extractor fan switched on with a muted roar - it was quite an eerie experience.

After 35 minutes in the tunnel, we were in the light again and motored on to Westport Lake near Longford.  Time for a birthday cake.  We rested up for a while and Jennie and Richard went for a walk to check out dinner options – we were going out for a birthday dinner as well.  When they couldn’t find anything suitable we decided to move on to ‘China Garden’ which we were told was very good.  Even though it was just before the Black Prince depot we thought that was better than having to get a taxi to find somewhere to eat.

You can't have a birthday without a cake!

The last leg of the journey was through an abandoned industrial area.  Apparently, this used to be a huge ceramics and steel making area (Royal Doulton still has a presence here although I don’t think it’s made here anymore).  A lot of the area has been regenerated and as we got closer to Stoke there were quite a lot of new and refurbished buildings.  The power of the potteries can be seen in the shape of the canal.  Instead of running relatively straight, it snakes across the countryside, apparently in an endeavour to link up with each of the potteries.

The magpie geese are looking for their share of the cake!

When we got to ‘China Garden’ (well at least where we thought ‘China Garden’ was) we found a carvery instead – Toby Carvery.  It was a very enjoyable alternative.

As we are berthed only a few hundred yards from the Black Prince marina we should have no trouble packing up in time to deliver the boat by 9:30 in the morning.

Saturday 3rd September 2011 – Stoke-on-Trent to Coalport

Up, packed, breakfasted in time to motor the few hundred yards to Black Prince before 9:30.  The boat only took 96 litres (£114) of fuel which is quite amazing considering it had been running for at least 8 hours a day for a week (admittedly we were only getting along at 4 miles per hour top speed).

Caught a taxi to the launderette (washed enough to get home) and had a cup of coffee at the ‘Devine Coffee Shop’ visited last week.  Walked about a mile to Alamo to hire the car (Toyota Avensis) and returned to the Black Prince office to pick up our gear.

Set off for Shrewsbury, a bit over an hour down the road. Shrewsbury is a historic market town with the town centre having a largely unaltered medieval street plan. The town features over 660 historic listed buildings, including several examples of timber framing from the 15th and 16th century - quite amazing to be looking at a building that was built in 1486 and still being used for everyday use.

Shrewsbury

More Shrewsbury

Had lunch at ‘The Good Life’, a whole food restaurant then had a stroll around Shrewsbury.  A lot of the streets were closed off for a Street Theatre Festival so we had to stop regularly to have a look at the next performance (they even had an Australian girl performing). Came across a couple of dorky guys dressed up as traffic wardens – very amusing.

Back to the car and we drove on to the village of Ironbridge and its Iron Bridge.  This was the first iron bridge of its kind to be built in the world (fabricated from cast iron) and was constructed in 1779.  Quite amazing to think that it went up before the first European settlement in Australia.  The toll for the bridge was a farthing when on foot and up to 2/- for a carriage pulled by six horses.

The Iron Bridge

The area around Ironbridge is described by those promoting it as a tourist destination as the "Birthplace of the Industrial Revolution". This is a falsehood based on the idea that Abraham Darby perfected the technique of smelting iron with coke, in Coalbrookdale, allowing much cheaper production of iron. In reality, it was one small part of the revolution along with the growth of railways, spinning machines, weaving and other industrial inventions and activities going on all over the country.

The old Coalport China buildings now a museum

Bed tonight is at the YHA at Coalport.  We have a four-bedroom (actually has 7 beds in it) with an ensuite – very satisfactory.  Had dinner here tonight, baked haddock with capers and veg, also very satisfactory.  The YHA is in a beautifully restored building that was part of the Coalport China enterprise founded in 1795 by John Rose.  Production eventually moved to Staffordshire in 1926 and later became part of the world-famous Wedgwood group of pottery companies.

Went for a walk after dinner.  Saw a couple of railway lines running up a hill from a canal.   The Hay Inclined Plane was completed in 1793 and enabled canal barges and narrowboats to be transferred from the bottom of the Severn Gorge to the top, up a 1 in 4 gradient on wheeled cradles, operated by a team of just four men. It was the equivalent of 27 canal locks and could transport six barges per hour in this fashion, an operation that would have taken over three hours using a traditional lock system. Once again the ingenuity amazes.

Sunday 4th September 2011 – Coalport to Bath

We had a walk this morning before our 8am breakfast at the hostel.  We walked along the canal and then across a pedestrian bridge over the Severn River.  The bridge was built in remembrance of those who lost their lives in the Great War:  “This bridge is free O tread it reverently in memory of those who died for thee”.

YHA Building, Coalport

We had intended to head to Stow-on-the-Wold from Coalport but the GPS took us further east than we had expected (choosing the faster roads) and as we weren’t too far from Stratford-upon-Avon we decided to spend some time there.  The Tudor buildings are amazing and they’re everywhere.

Stratford-upon-Avon

Stood outside the house where Shakespeare was born and the archeological dig taking place at the site where he lived before his death.  As you would imagine there were lots of tourists here.

Shakespeare's 'birth' home

From Stratford, we did get to Stow-on-the-Wold a little further down the road.  What a difference in architecture from Stratford.  Instead of Tudor, all the houses here were made from sandstone.  Quite a pretty little spot.  We had lunch and headed off to the Slaughters (from the old English slaughter meaning muddy place).

Stow-on-theWold

Both Upper and Lower Slaughter are pretty spots.  We went for a wander before heading off to Bourton-on-the-Water a little further still down the road.  

Upper Slaughter

The Lonely Planet describes Bourton as an undeniably pretty place that has sold its soul to tourism.  That pretty well sums it up.  They have cleaned up the canal (crystal clear) that runs through the middle of town creating a very picturesque spot – and the tourists were everywhere. After a cup of coffee, it was back in the car for the drive to Bath.

Bourton-on-the-Water

Booked in at a YHA again tonight – another 4-bed dorm, this time in an Italianate mansion with a bit added.  We’re in the bit added and we don’t have as much room as we had last night.

Bath

Went for a drive into downtown Bath.  Wandered around the centre and had tea in a pub.  Pulteney Bridge was particularly interesting – a bridge with shops built across it.

Monday 5th September 2011 – Bath to Dunsford

Another big day today.  Breakfast (cooked) at the YHA at 8am and then back down the hill and up the other side (Bath is quite hilly) to have a look at the Royal Crescent – a crescent of homes where the rich and famous used to come for their holidays and probably “take the waters” at the baths.

The Royal Crescent

Then back into town to spend some time at the Roman Baths.  What an amazing spot.  They have turned it into an amazing museum with models, videos, laser images and of course what is left of the Roman Baths themselves.  Considering they were built around 2,000 years ago there is still quite a lot standing.  They had audio machines which were quite easy to operate and very informative.

The Roman Baths

Archaeological evidence shows that the site of the Roman Baths' main spring was treated as a shrine by Iron Age Britons, and was dedicated to the goddess Sulis, whom the Romans identified with Minerva. The Romans continued the use of the name Sulis when they established their spa and baths in AD43.  They called the town Aquae Sulis (literally, "the waters of Sulis").  The temple was constructed in 60–70 AD and the bathing complex was gradually built up over the next 300 years.  After the failure of Roman authority in the first decade of the 5th century, the baths fell into disrepair and were eventually lost due to silting up.

Pultney Bridge, Bath

Much later Bath became popular as a spa town during the Georgian era, which led to a major expansion that left a heritage of exemplary Georgian architecture crafted from Bath Stone.

Had a bit more of a walk around town before we set off.

From Bath, we headed to Stonehenge about an hours drive away.  From what I had read (right beside the highway behind a fence etc) I thought we may have been disappointed but found the place very impressive.  To think that these stones were erected (some of the lintels weigh almost 50 tons) between 3,000 and 1,600BC (and some brought as far as 200 miles from Wales), without machinery, is incredible.  The stones are erected to align with the midsummer sunrise and midwinter sunset, but for what exact purpose remains a mystery.

Stonehenge

From there it was back to Dunsford to drop off our gear and return the car to Exeter with Richard bringing in Rogers car to pick me up.  We thought we had plenty of time but came across an accident on the highway which slowed us considerably – not helped by the road changing from single lane to dual lanes regularly.  Rang Alamo to say we would be a bit late.

Have been impressed with our hire car, a Toyota Avensis (probably Camry size but not quite as wide).  It had a few niceties (dual-zone air conditioning and a reversing camera) and drove pretty well – not as smoothly as the Mercedes though.

Went to the Nobody Inn in the village of Doddiscombsleigh for dinner tonight.  How’s that for a name?  This pub had been recommended to us by a few people and was not too far from Dunsford.  They did grilled fish for Jill and I also had fish even though it was “deep fried” on the menu - was very nice.

Back to Dunsford to pack for the train tomorrow.  London overnight and then on to Paris.