Sunday 2nd June 2013 – Karijini to Newman

Headed off today with Mark and Karen to drive to Newman.  Margaret and Arthur had started earlier hoping to find a welder open in Newman as they have a couple of broken welds on their bull bar bash plate.  Kaye and Phill are doing the Dale’s Gorge walk and will catch us later.  The route through the Hamersley Ranges was quite spectacular.  We tried to find some aboriginal rock engravings but could not find any signs so missed out for now.

Set up next to Jennie and Richard (they had arrived yesterday) at the Kalgan’s Rest Camping Ground.  Got busy with washing – sheets, towels etc and drying (both free use) then off to Woolworths for a stock up.  Also called into the visitor’s centre where the girls behind the desk recommended the Capricorn Roadhouse (18km south of Newman) for dinner.

Dinner was excellent even if the drinks were a bit pricey.  Jill’s brandy and dry cost $14.10.  The best brandy and dry she’s ever had she reckons.

It started to drizzle mid afternoon and continued to rain all night.

Monday 3rd June 2013 – Newman

Not only did it rain all night – it was windy too.  We only had the little awning up and the wind even pulled one of the ropes out of the ground that was holding it up.  The weather is quite miserable today.

Our plans to head off today to Rudall River National Park were a bit up in the air - a conference if Jennie and Richard’s caravan to decide what to do.  There is a low sitting over the coast from Port Headland to Broome dropping unseasonable rain.  Rudall River is right in its path if it keeps coming east.  On finding out that some of our roads are closed some decisions had to be made.  M&A and K&P were heading home from Rudall along the Gary Junction Road.  As it now appears that this road could be closed for some time they have decided to start for home today, heading up to the Kimberley and then down the Tanami Track.  The rest of us have decided to wait out today and see what tomorrow brings. 

Down comes the small awning to be replaced with the larger awning, end walls, breeze skirt etc.  We even put part of a front wall up.

As today is a Public Holiday in Western Australia, most businesses are closed but the Information Centre is open and the have quite reasonable coffee and free internet (well a gold coin donation).  We made good use of their facilities and got the blog, emails etc up to date. 

Warming food today - Lunch was nice warm vege soup with some added chicken and Karen made chilli con carnie for dinner.

Snug as a bug in a rug - well almost!

A game of hand and foot canister in Jennie and Richard’s van then it was off to bed.

It’s been raining all day on and off and continued through the night.

Tuesday 4th June 2013 – Newman to Yule River

Decision time again! The rain has not let up and even if it stops now the road will not be passable to Rudall until at least the weekend.

Plan at the moment is to meet in Marble Bar on Friday night if the weather improves.  Jennie and Richard will stay put and M&K and we will head north to the coast south of Port Headland in the hope of finding somewhere drier.  Packed up in the rain (what fun!!) and headed off.

A wet pack up - It's never fun!!

We had some instruction and GPS coordinates of the Wonmunna rock carvings from the lady at the information centre so after punching the coordinates into the GPS this time we were able to find them as we travelled north.  An unmarked track (pretty slippery today) leads off the main road to a waterhole on a creek.

Wonmunna Rock Carvings

The engravings were quite exceptional, unfortunately badly weathered but pretty special all the same.  And it even stopped raining long enough for us to have a look.

Lunch was at Mount Robinson rest area and again it stopped raining long enough for us to have lunch – covered picnic table provided.  A gorge led off from the rest area and it looked like just the place for rock wallabies to be sunning themselves on a sunny day – not today!!

The main road north passes through a small section of Karijini National Park with more gorges that would just beg exploring if it was not still raining.  Pulled up briefly at a road house (very muddy) before out final destination for the night, a freebie on the Yule River 62km south of Port Headland.

What a delightful spot!  We were able to camp quite close to the river under some trees – and the rain has stopped.  There’s even mobile reception – there must be a mine close by??

Wednesday 5th June 2013 – Yule River to Port Samson

Herbert Parker Rest Area is really a lovely spot.  When we first arrived we came through a gate into a fairly confined area but a man in a truck with a generator and two Jack Russells showed us a track that led to a cleared area a bit further along the bank – where we ended up.  Nice grassed area with river gums, paperbarks and on the river there are black swans, pelicans, cormorants and spoonbills among others.

Camp on the Yule River

Black Swans

A nice slow start to the day appreciating the area.  We had hung up all our wet canvas last nigh and although we had a shower or two through the night there is blue sky this morning.  After a breakfast of bacon, eggs, tomato, mushrooms, toast and coffee we were off to Roebourne.

The Old Jail Museum at Roebourne

Called into the Old Jail (now the information centre and museum).  Pottered around for a while gathering information on the area.  Roebourne was gazetted in 1856 and was once the administrative centre for the whole area north of the Murchison River.  There are a few remaining buildings from those days in addition to the jail but the town is a much quieter spot these days.

We called into Wickham (established as a service centre for the mining industry) where we had a very good lunch at the Sports Club.  Briefly called into Wollies and then drove on the Point Samson where we were booked into the Cove Caravan Park ($49 no unpowered sites).

After setting up Jill and I went for a walk.  First to Honeymoon Cove where we discovered some amazing rock formation.  Much of it was twisted shale a bit like Hamersley Gorge) but the really interesting ones had been turned 90 degrees to stand vertically.  What tremendous force must have created that?  A little further along we found the remains of the jetty.  When Roebourne’s original jetty at Cossack failed to provide for larger ships a jetty was built at Point Samson in 1904 with a rail line connecting it to Roebourne.  Point Samson was then in turn superseded as a port by Dampier in the 1960’s and the jetty lies in ruins – except for a section which now stands proudly in the centenary garden along with statues of whales, manta rays, sea eagles, gropers and turtles – the park is really well done. Point Samson is doing a pretty good job of reinventing itself as a holiday destination.

Rock Formations at Honeymoon Cove

The old Jetty at Point Samson

and the replica in the  park (made from bits of the old wharf)

Went for a drive to find a spot to watch the sunset.  Was a bit hard to fins but after driving along some sandy tracks we found a spot overlooking the ore loading facilities at Cape Lambert.  And quite a sunset it was.

Ore loading facilities at Cape Lambert

Sunset over the Port

It’s interesting that a port features again in the area.  While Tom Price’s ore is shipped out from Dampier when the Paraburdoo mine was developed, Cape Lambert, next to Point Samson was chosen as the loading site.  The loading wharf stretches 2.5km out to see.  When we went for our walk this afternoon you could see many tankers sitting out at sea waiting to be loaded.

Back to the caravan park for dinner and a game of rummy before bed.

Thursday 6th June – Point Samson and back to Yule River

Sunrise at Point Samson

We drove out early to where we watched the sunset last night and then further on to the point so that we could have a look at the ore loading facilities at Cape Lambert in daylight.  It’s quite a huge establishment with its 3.5 km jetty poking out into the Indian Ocean.

Port loading facilities at Cape Lambert

After packing up we set off for Cossack (calling briefly into Wickham), where Roebourne’s jetty had originally been set up.  As ships became bigger and the port silted up Point Samson took over this role and Cossack “died”.  This was helped to some degree by a cyclone in 1896.  The remaining 5 stone buildings have now been restored and it’s quite a delightful spot.  Apparently in August each year they have an art festival in all the restored buildings.  It would be quite something to see.

Ships waiting to be loaded (from Tank Lookout at Wickham)

Cossack

Visited the cemetery which is always sobering.  The Japanese section had quite a few graves of Japanese pearl divers who lost their lives during Cossack's time as a pearling port.  In the European section we found the grave of the 10 year old daughter of the local policemen who had died of tetanus after standing on a rusty nail at school.  We had read about this when we had visited the restored school house down the road.  No wonder they make children wear shoes to school these days.

Fuelled up at Roebourne and after having a look at the area from the lookout at Mount Welcome headed back toward the Yule River for another night.

Roebourne from Mount Welcome

The Old Jail at Roebourne

On the way we called into the Whim Creek Hotel but it was still closed.  Had read somewhere that it had been closed temporarily while the new owners looked at developing a mine on the site.  Obviously nothing happening yet.

Back to the Yule River where we set up camp, had lunch and then a nice restful afternoon.  Contacted Jennie and Richard and the roads are still out of action around Marble Bar so it looks like our excursion to Rudall River is just not going to happen this trip.  Jennie and Richard are now heading to Karijini and we will head north to Broome and the Kimberley.

There a quite a few caravans and a bus in the area that is bollarded off today so it was nice to have the track leading onto the river to get away from the crowds.  The track winds between trees and is fairly narrow so excludes caravans and anyone else that is a bit wide/large.  Fortunately the camper pretty well follows the Prado’s track so we could just manage to get between the trees.

One particular group of three vans (all the same type) belonged to some club and they were playing disk bowls (apparently a game popular with caravaners) to all hours – quite noisy so we appreciated our relative quiet.

Did you say we need some wind protection!!

Friday 7th June – Yule River to Cape Keraudren

Went for a walk/jog along the river before breakfast.  There’s a track that runs along the river for some distance.  We expected to find the perfect camping spot that we had missed out on but where we were was the pick.

Headed off about 8:30 to Port Hedland to the shops – actually most of the shops were at South Hedland and we need once again to visit the Telstra Shop so South Hedland it was.  We are still having a problem with Jill’s account.  Our visit to the shop in Dalby had got the data package that was supposed to start in February installed but we had still not been reimbursed the $250 we had been charged as a “pay as you go” data costumer.  They couldn’t do anything at the shop but put us onto the phone to complaints how eventually transferred us to billing who eventually agreed that it was their mistake and have reimbursed the money.  I won’t be convinced of that until I see the next bill.  While all this was going on Jill went to the Post Office to send a few bits and pieces to the east.

Dampier Salt

Off to Point Hedland (viewing Dampier Salt along the way) where we called into Harvey Norman where we were hoping to pick up a new charging cable for Jill’s tablet (the old one has “died).  No luck!!

Sat in Marrapikurinya Park overlooking the harbour.  It’s quite amazing that those large ships and port facilities are just there across river.  While Mark and Karen had a coffee I logged onto EBay to track down the elusive cable to be sent c/- Post Office in Broome.  As you would have it for some reason I couldn’t get it sent to Western Australia so it is being sent to home and Bradley will transfer it to Broome.  Jill visited the RSL Op Shop and bought some bath mats and a pair of shorts.

The port at Point Hedland

Had lunch at a café in the main street (burgers without the bun) and then set off for Cape Keraudren where we camped right on the beach (at Sandy Beach).  It’s a beautiful spot but very windy and quite exposed.  We had to put up all sorts of wind protection. 

Camp at Cape Keraudren

The tide was out when we arrived (and I mean out – several hundred metres).  There were all sorts of rocks and rock pools exposed.  Found a couple of octopi which were fascinating.  Also lots of shells, crabs, bits of coral and other marine bits and pieces.

After dinner we were relaxing when we were invaded by hermit crabs.  They were everywhere over the car park.  Some even came into the annexe which was quite surprising.  They had a great collection of different types of shells – quite amazing.

One of the hundreds of Hermit crabs that invade at night

Saturday 8th June 2013 – Cape Keraudren

Woke to the sun rising over the ocean and a kangaroo sitting on the beach.  Couldn’t quite work out why he was there.  It’s a beautiful morning and the wind has dropped.  Jill and I went for a walk along the beach.  Lots of debris and lots of shells.

Sunrise at Cape Keraudren

Scrambled eggs with bacon, mushrooms, tomato and spinach for breakfast. 

A rest day today.  Lots of reading, booking accommodation in Broome, booking a trip to the Horizontal Waterfalls (there’s phone reception here), catching up on blogs and journals, moving solar panels to keep the batteries charged and the fridge running.  Mark and Karen were also kept busy bird watching.

Another beautiful sunset and a walk on the beach.  More octopi to watch.

Lots of octopi in the rock pools

After dark the hermit crabs were back but there didn’t seem to be as many as there were last night.

Sunday 9th June – Cape Keraudren to Eighty Mile Beach.

Do you think I can fly?

Hermit crab tracks at Cape Keraudren

A nice walk south along the beach this morning and back over the sand dunes.  It took a while to pack up as nearly all the canvas we own was out.  We only have a short drive up the coast to Eighty Mile Beach (110km).  The last ten kilometres were on a dirt road into the caravan park.  We had heard that the road had been closed during the recent rain and when we got there we could see why.  The road had been a mess but they had been working on it enough to get everyone through.

Eighty Mile Beach is a bit of an oasis in this part of the world.  Green lawns and trees.  We set up, had lunch and then went off to have a look at the Sunday afternoon market.  Not a lot there to interest us - conserves, candles, 2^nd hand books and odd bits of pieces that people didn’t want any more, but Jill did buy some jam and chutney.

Sunset at Eighty Mile Beach

Drinks on the beach watching another glorious sunset - This one with the reflection on the mud flats created by the outgoing tide.  How many sunsets can one photograph???

Monday 10th June 2013 – Eighty Mile Beach

These beach walks in the morning are enjoyable.  Headed north along the beach this morning picking up some interesting shells on our way.  A nice lazy breakfast of leftover savoury mice (the sauce from last night’s pasta) on toast, followed by g/f muffins and yesterday’s jam – apricot and rum conserve and Otto’s coffee.

Eighty Mile Beach

Jill went off to make an appointment with a lady who cut’s hair.  Not only did she end up with a very decent haircut for $15 but also got all the gossip re fishing etc.

Had a nice lazy day.  Walked to the top of the dunes at one stage to download emails, had a read and a nap in the afternoon.

The tide is huge here.  At low tide the mud flats must stretch about 1km out to sea (at least it seams like that!!)  At high tide the fisher people are cheek by jowl along the beach.  Didn’t see a great deal being caught.

At the back of the caravan park there is quite a big structure for an organisation called Coastwatch.  Apparently it’s a volunteer organisation run by a retired mine worker, Billie – hence the name on the side of the building – Billawood Detention Centre.  They have quite a few quad bikes which they run up and down the beach on keeping an eye on things.

Visited the quite well stocked shop in the afternoon and had icy poles – other that that it was just a restful day.

Sunset reflected in the mud flats at Eighty Mile Beach

Tuesday 11th June – Eighty Mile Beach to Port Smith

An early morning walk and then pack up and off.  Karen and Mark had gone earlier to call into the Sandfire Roadhouse.  It is run by the brother of a friend of theirs.  We called in briefly and then it was on to Port Smith.  On the GPS there was a fruit stall and market garden site marked next to the road just near the Port Smith turnoff.  We overheard some people chatting on the GPS that in the past you could even buy pancakes there.  Unfortunately it was all deserted today.

We had heard mixed reports about Port Smith.  Some people thought it a delightful spot others would not return because of the sandflies. It is indeed a little oasis among shady trees but yes there were sandflies.  Great bathrooms!!!

Tawny Frogmouth at Port Smith Caravan Park

Our neighbours told us about a few drives in the area and so after setting up we drove south to see the brolgas.  And there were lots of them, one flock of about 100.  They were a bit shy though and we couldn’t get very close to them before they flew off.  We explored a few spots along the coast – Little and Enginedine (False Cape) Creeks where they flow into the ocean.  On our return we drove down to the lagoon (about 1km from the caravan park) to photograph the sunset.  Sandflies were getting a bit vicious at this stage so there was a need to get out the repellent.  We were among the mangroves after all.

Little Creek

Miniature mangroves growing in the creek

One more beautiful sunset (at Port Smith)

Back to camp for dinner and those great showers.