April 2013 - Western Australia

In April 2013 we will be heading west across the Anne Beadell Highway to Western Australia where we will be spending time in the Pilbara and Kimberley before returning home via the Tanami Track and Alice Springs.

Sunday 28th April 2013 - Mullumbimby to Highfields

A 1:30 pm start to commence our 3 month trip to the Pilbara and the Kimberley.  We got away a little later than we intended but as we were only going as far as Highfields to spend the night with sister Helen, Ted and Mum, that was no great problem.  There were lots of road works happening once we left the Logan Motorway – repairs after the flood of a few years ago.  There were also major works on the road up the mountain to Toowoomba but we managed to avoid these after speaking to Ted and we took an alternate route through Murphy’s Creek.

A lovely baked dinner, a comfy bed and a good shower (probably the last for a while).

Monday 29th April 2013 – Highfields to Mitchell

A leisurely start to the morning and we were on our way by about 9am.  Lots of cotton and sorghum along the way. 

Cotton waiting to be collected

Called into Dalby where we met up with fellow travellers, Mark and Karen (there will be ten of us for the first part of the trip and the intention is that we will all meet in Mitchell this evening).  Called into the Telstra shop to sort out a problem with their billing for Jill’s phone.  Why is that whenever you change something with Telstra they “stuff” it up?!!!  Gave us a chance to have a muffin.  Just as we were leaving we met Arthur and Margaret also visiting the Telstra shop to sort out a problem.  The six of us met at Chinchilla for lunch at a Chinese café.  Jill also checked out the Vinnie’s shop for any additional gear for the Outrageous Orange Op Shop Occasion which is to be held sometime in the crossing of the Anne Beadell Highway west of Coober Pedy.  

It was then on to Mitchell (fuelled up at Roma on the way through – 147.9 cents/l) where we met up with Richard and Jennie at the Major Mitchell Caravan Park ($24 for the night).  Phil and Kay had been caught up in roadworks and had decided to stay the night in Roma and catch up with us the next day.  Dinner was at the Court House Hotel via the Caravan Park Courtesy Bus - flathead and a very nice salad.

Tuesday 30th April 2013 – Mitchell to Quilpie

The Spa complex is open again in Mitchell after being closed by the floods early last year.  Lovely to have a soak in the hot water once again.  

Spa Complex at Mitchell

Rang ANZ to see that my credit card was OK as it didn’t work at the caravan park last night.  They say it’s not the card so guess it was the caravan park’s machine.  Had a bit of a stroll around town - Jill bought some Umbi Umbi Cream and some soaps made by indigenous folks, then some coffee and a “Fairies at the bottom of the garden” sign at the Lemon Pie Coffee shop.

From there it was on to Charleville and lunch in a park – 3 geese harassed us.  Called into Charleville itself.  Visited the op shop (probably last spot to pick up gear for the “Outrageous Orange Op Shop Occasion”) and a coffee and then on to Lake Houdraman just east of Quilpie.

 

Camp at Lake Houdraman

Lake Houdraman is a lovely bush camp – plenty of water in the lake so they have had a lot more rain here than they had had in Mitchell.  Dinner tonight was Coqauvin (Kay), Thai pork stir fry (Margaret), stir fried vegetables and steamed rice (Jill).  We’re sharing cooking – three families cooking each night.  The night was still warm so no need for the “heavy” doona.

Wednesday 1st May 2013 – Quilpie to Windorah

Dawn over Lake Houdraman

Woke at 6:30 – glorious view out the window over the lake.  Went for a walk.  Disturbed a huge flock of budgies from a tree.  Lots of native hens along the lake edge – also ducks, pelicans and an emu.  Breakfast was left over stir fry and egg on toast.  Broke Otto out (our fancy coffee maker) for a nice cup of coffee.

Spent the morning in Quilpie – Information Centre, Craft Shop, Coffee shop, fuelled up (172.9 cents/l). Also sent some post cards. Most of the group made use of the shower at the Council Chambers before we met in the park for lunch.

Lots of road trains on the road to Windorah – some now with four trailers and there’s now only a single lane of bitumen which means you have to get well off the road when there is one coming your way.

Arrived at Cooper’s Creek, about 10km short of Windorah before 4pm.  Another lovely spot overlooking the creek – plenty of water.  Apparently Cooper’s Creek is the only Creek that has rivers running into it and the only reason it is not called a river is because there was no flow in it when it was discovered.

Camp at Cooper's Creek

Dinner tonight, Chicken Curry (Karen) Beef Massaman (Jennie) and Thai Lamb (Margaret).

Thursday 2nd May 2013 – Windorah to Birdsville

Cooper's Creek

Kite nest on Cooper's Creek

Called into Windorah (very briefly) after taking a Nature Trail Drive from Coopers Creek before heading to Birdsville.  They have done a good job of the nature trail with lots of signage of the different vegetation.

About 120 km out of Windorah we left the bitumen.  Called into the ruins of the JC Hotel and the village of Cambridge – quite a little settlement in its day but not much left now except the cemetery.

Cemetry at Cambridge

Mount Henderson

Art Work in progress

We thought the gravel was pretty good (getting along about 90km/h) until we had a blow out of one of the camper tyres.  So much for the Tyre Dogs alerting us of a flat.  The unit on that tyre was still showing 34 psi even after the tyre had disintegrated.  Will write to them when we get back with a ‘please explain’.  Went to the garage as soon as we got to Birdsville for a new tyre.  Actually bought two.  Was a bit concerned that the blowout may have been because the tyres were a few years old and may have been perished in the side wall. Also fuelled up (171.9 cents/l)

Not what we needed

It was really hot in the Birdsville Caravan Park so we were all searching for a tree to set up under.  Off to the  Birdsville Pub for dinner – Barramundi, steaks, kangaroo etc followed up by a cup of tea at the camp kitchen.  Made use of phone reception to email, face book etc.  Not expecting further reception until Coober Pedy.

Sunset at Birdsville

Friday 3rd May – Birdsville to Mungerannie

Did a load of washing and filled up with water and fuel.  Then a coffee at the Birdsville Bakery before ‘hitting’ the road.  We decided to take the Inside Track seeing it has recently been opened for the first time in about 10 years.  Apparently it was graded about ten days ago.  It was quite easy running although a bit sandy in places which increased the fuel consumption (pulling the camper trailer) to almost 16 litres per 100 km.  Usually we have been getting 13 – 14.  Speed wise we were able to get along at 75 to 80kph.  After the ‘Inside Track’ we were back on the main Birdsville Track and a quick toilet stop at clean flushing roadside toilets - in the middle of 'nowhere', just amazing.

Then on to Mungerannie for the night.  There was some confusion re the spelling with some signs spelling it with one n.  We discovered later that the reason for this was that in the days of telegraph the name was so long that it was treated as two words with the accompanying additional cost.  To save money one n was dropped so there are two spellings used.  The correct spelling is two ns because the word Annie means near water and Mungerannie is indeed beside a lovely waterhole with lots of bird life (corellas, pink eared ducks, grebes, etc etc) and a hot pool which we thoroughly enjoyed a little later in the day.  After setting up camp, however, we retreated to the pub (the only building at Mungerannie) for a few drinks and a relax in the relative cool.  The barman, Phil (a bit of a character) told us lots about the area and put on a video of the re-enactment of the last mail run by Tom Cruise from Birdsville to Marree in a restored Leyland Badger.  Camping cost was $10 per person per night.

Waterhole at Mungerannie

Spaghetti Bolognese for dinner (Jennie and Jill) followed by a desert of meringue nests, canned mango, cherries and passionfruit with cream and yoghurt (Kay).

Saturday 4th May – Mungerannie to Coward Springs

A nice slow breakfast and pack up as we are now on South Australian time and had an extra half hour before our departure time of 9am.

The Birdsville Track is in excellent condition and we’re making very good time sitting on 85 – 90.  Called into the Mulka ruins which was originally a general store servicing the area.

Passed Lake Harry which we thought was a mirage at first but is quite an expanse of water.  We then stopped at the Lake Harry ruins which was a date farm in the late 1800s.  From the thousands of date palms planted not one remains.

Called into Marree to fuel up (195 cents/l) and decided to have lunch at the service station/general store.  A very nice burger and no flies.

Tom Cruise Mail Truck at Maree

Marree is the end of the Birdsville Track and we are now on the Oodnadatta Track towards Coward Springs for our camp for the night.  The track also runs alongside the old Ghan railway line so there is lots of railway memorabilia.  Came across some sculptures in a paddock.  Quite a selection ranging from two small aeroplanes buried tail down to bits and pieces made from scrap metal and a water tank on the railway line turned into a huge dog with his head being an old car.

Also called into a lookout where you could look out over South Lake Eyre.  Quite a spectacular spot - after being full a few years ago there is no sign of any water now

Further along the track we called into Curdimurka Siding and one of the few railway buildings still standing.  Discovered a couple camped out the back who were busy sweeping out the buildings.  Apparently they had been on the road about 4 years.

Curdimurka Siding

We set up camp at Coward Springs a real little oasis in this very harsh environment.  Lots of trees.  Also showers and septic toilets with buildings built from railway sleepers from the old Ghan (and insulation cups from the old telegraph line as door handles clothes hooks etc) – lovely buildings.  Camping was $10 per person/night.  There’s also a small ‘hot’ pool but it’s not as hot or as big as the pool at Mungerannie.

Dinner tonight was a roast dinner, chicken (Margaret) vegetables - potato, sweet potato, pumpkin & peas (Jill) and a risotto dish (Karen).

Sunday 5th May – Coward Springs to Coober Pedy

Prue and Greg, the owners of Coward Springs keep the place very tidy and since our last time here (1994) there has been a museum set up in a restored railway building – very interesting.

We backtracked a few kilometres to see the mound springs – ‘Blanche Cup’ and ‘The Bubbler’.  It’s amazing how they grow themselves out of this flat country.  They must be at least 5 metres above the surrounding countryside.  ‘The Bubbler’ living up to its name was particularly active, bubbling away.

First stop was William Creek (permanent population – 2) where we called at the pub for a coffee and chat.  They even had soy milk.  From here they do regular flights over Lake Eyre and there were 4 or 5 planes lined up near the pub.

After William Creek we turned off the Oodnadatta track onto the road to Coober Pedy.  It was very difficult to find a lunch spot as there were no trees and lots of flies.  Consequently it was a very quick stop just off the road beside some ruins.

On to Coober Pedy where Mark and Karen and the Benham’s set up in the Stuart Range Caravan Park ($27 per night – unpowered).  The others decided they needed real beds and have found cabins/motel rooms for the three night stay here.  A quick swim in the freezing water at the swimming pool before dinner.

Dinner tonight at Tom and Mary’s Greek Taverna – very nice too.  Alex had Mousaka and Jill, Whiting.

Monday 6th May – Coober Pedy

Alex headed off on a tour with J&R and M&A this morning while Jill had a relax – if you could call doing the washing and cleaning out the fridge relaxing.  Rudi was the guide for the tour, an old Opel Miner and he had lots of information re the history of Coober Pedy.  Called at the underground Serbian Church, did a bit of fossicking (didn’t find anything), drove around the town past the golf course (oil greens) and areas of working open mines, finishing up at the Umoona Open Mine and Museum where we were shown an underground dwelling and an old mine.  Could also buy opal if you were so inclined.  The museum is certainly worth the visit.

After a quick coffee at the Desert Cave Café we all met up at the Underground Bookshop to buy permits (one of three needed to cross the Anne Beadell) for the first part of our trip.  This is a fascinating little shop and very well resourced.

Jill and I had a burger for lunch at John’s Pizza Bar and Restaurant – very nice, before heading back to the caravan park for a swim (it’s no warmer today).  Checked the wheel bearings on the camper – new ones put in at Mullumbimby and we were told they might need adjusting.  They didn’t.

At about 4:30 we headed out to the Breakaways (23km up the highway and then 10 km east) - some spectacular country with lots of mesas. After some exploring, we had drinks and nibbles while watching the sunset.  There was some cloud about so the sunset did not disappoint.

Back to town and some of us headed for the restaurant at the Desert Cave hotel.  Reports were good and we were expecting something classy.  While the food was good the service and presentation  was far from classy so was a little disappointing.

Tuesday 7th May 2013 – Coober Pedy

This morning we were off to visit an underground house with Mark and Karen which was built in the 60s by Faye and two other women.  It started as one room dug into the hill (the mailman kept his truck in it).  Faye dug out some more rooms, finding some opal on the way.  It’s now a three bedroom home with a swimming pool.

The underground house

From here it was off to the Umoona Museum again (so Jill could have a look).  We visited the Op Shop hoping to get a few pillow cases to store stuff in but it was closed for stock take.

At noon we all met at Josephine’s Gallery to see the kangaroos being fed at the kangaroo orphanage (the only one between Adelaide and Alice Springs (I think).  We had to wait some time as a television crew turned up to do a story on the orphanage.  We ended up being “extras” for the story.  Jill bought some clapping sticks to go in the musical basket.  The kangaroos were very cute.  Three adults and two joeys.

Kangaroos at the orphanage

Back to camp for lunch and then to the supermarket and a fuel up.  Things are very reasonably priced in Coober Pedy.  We even bought a stick blender.  Fuel, in particular is very reasonable.  With the 8c off for shopping at the supermarket it was only 150.9c.  We all met at John’s diner for dinner – gluten free pizza and garlic prawns and chips.

Wednesday 8th May 2013 – Coober Pedy to Tallaringa Conservation Reserve (Anne Beadell Highway)

Up fairly early this morning to pack up.  Took a bit longer as we had put up the awning, fly screen walls etc.  Filled up with water and headed for the coffee shop (John’s Pizza Place) by 9 am to meet up with everyone else.  Coffee was good too.

At 9:30 we headed off for the Anne Beadell.  Turning off the Stuart Highway we were initially in opal country – lots of mullock heaps as far as the eye can see.  At this stage the road was pretty good and we were able to get along pretty well (up to 80km/h).  Came to a sign to announce the start of the Anne Beadell - “Remote Desert Wilderness – Well equipped high clearance all wheel drive vehicles only".  No habitation or services for next 1300km”.  We were looking forward to it.

The adventure begins

From here the road began to deteriorate and by the time we hit the dog fence, at the beginning of the Tallaringa Conservation Park, was becoming quite corrugated.  We had a three kilometre track south through the gate and then another three kilometres back to our starting point on the other side of the fence – a bit of a strange situation.  Pulled off the track for lunch (with the flies), then back on the road.  For the rest of the afternoon it was slow going, never more than 30km/h and sometimes less than 10. We knew there was going to be corrugations but at this rate the five days planned for the crossing just won’t happen.  Passed a 4X4 heading back to Coober Pedy with destroyed shock absorbers.

Stopped at several markers along the track and also Talaringa Well.  The well was there but these days full of sand.

Camp for the night was just inside the border of the Tallaringa Conservation Reserve and Maralinga Tjarutja Aboriginal Land.  Before dinner Jill and I went for a walk up a nearby sand dune to a trig station.  Barbecue dinner tonight with salads (potato, bean & garden) prepared by Karen, Kay and Jennie.

A very mild night.

Camp for the night