Saturday 2nd June Coogee Beach to Tuarts Reserve (near Jurian Bay)

We packed up and headed off the morning.  We are now in new territory having never travelled from Perth to Carnarvon before.  Lots of spectacular scenery along the way and the banksias are putting on a spectacular display.  Also quite a few sand dunes particularly around Wedge Island.  Called into Nilgen Nature Reserve along the way.

 

 

The Pinnacles, Nambung National Park - Wow!!   National Parks have done a great job with pathways and signage etc etc with this park and the women in the information centre were very pleasant and informative.  An excellent start.  One can either walk or drive around the Pinnacles (2 different routes).  We chose to walk.  It was so good to get in amongst the rocks, some over 3.5 metres high and all different shapes and sizes - just amazing.

The area contains thousands of these weathered limestone pillars. The different types of formations include ones which are much taller than they are wide and resemble columns—suggesting the name of Pinnacles—while others are only a meter or so in height and width resembling short tombstones. A cross-bedding structure can be observed in many pinnacles where the angle of deposited sand changed suddenly due to changes in prevailing winds during formation of the limestone beds. Pinnacles with tops similar to mushrooms are created when the calcrete capping is harder than the limestone layer below it. The relatively softer lower layers weather and erode at a faster rate than the top layer leaving behind more material at the top of the pinnacle.

Time to look out for a camp spot.  We found a couple of Wickicamp sites just near Julien Bay.  (we needed a bush camp after being in a caravan park for four days).   First, we checked out the Banksia Rest Area but it was only very small and right next to the road.  No other campers and a bit of toilet paper about - Why do people have to be so inconsiderate.  Drove back to Tuarts Reserve where we camped among the Tuart trees.  There were quite a few others camping there including a few "Whizz Bankers"  (Vans with sliding doors that go Whizz Bang every time they are closed).  Also some kids playing soccer

Sunday 3rd June. Tuarts Reserve to Green Head

The Banksias along the road out to the highway are just amazing.

Our first stop was Lake Thetis.  We walked around the lake and had a look at the Stromatolites. Not as impressive as the Thrombolites as Lake Clifton but still pretty amazing to think that they are living organisms.  Stromatolites and their close cousins, thrombolites are living fossils that have been producing oxygen for about 3.5 billion years. This means that when you’re looking at these rock-like structures you’re essentially stepping back in time and seeing at how life was billions of years ago.  Both stromatolites and thrombolites are created over thousands of years by colonies of cyanobacteria who use the sun to harness energy and create oxygen.  Perhaps most impressively, they’re the reason why we’re here today and we can thank them for the oxygen that has allowed complex life-forms to evolve. Equally impressive, they also provide insight into the environmental changes of the earth.  Lake Thetis is one of the few places in the world where you can see these living fossils. The only other colony, apart from Lake Clifford is Hamelin Pool in Shark Bay.  We'll be there in a few days.  Lake Thetis has both stromatolites and thrombolites. These have been growing for about 3,500 years, in part thanks to the high saline content of the lake which means that few predators can survive in the salty water. 

 

Quite a lot of seabirds around, particularly cormorants.

On to Cervantes and the Lobster Shack.  Even though it is only 11:30 am we thought we should try out the lobster - half lobster & chips and some calamari.  Is lobster overrated?  The "shack" is the base for the Thompson families' lobster enterprise set up in 1966 when David Thompson moved to the area in search of the  Western Rock Lobster .

Called into the Information Centre at Jurien Bay to get some information of Stockyard Gully Cave that we had read about.  Also visited their market in a nice new park near the beachfront.

Drove on to Green Head Caravan Park where we set up camp before driving out to Stockyard Gully Cave. Alex walked through the cave while Jill entertained herself elsewhere.  Stockyard Gully Cave was created by an underground river system and is fairly easy to access after walking along the creek bed from the carpark.  During the mid-late 1900s,  part of the coastal stock route, linking Champion Bay (Geraldton) and the Guildford cattle markets traversed the park. Stockmen found the area provided good feed and water for the animals, and the creek bed or gully near the inflow entrance to the cave formed a narrow holding yard for stock if they needed to camp overnight.  One impressive feature of the caves are the huge bee hives that have been constructed near the entrances.

 

We returned via a 4 wheel drive track through Stockyard National Park to the Leeman - Eneabba Road.  It was very sandy in places and rocky in other (limestone).

 

Drove back the coast road from Leeman to Green Head.  Thought we might see sea lions at Point Louise but no - interesting honeycomb rocks though (calcarenite).   On the way out we couldn't turn onto the Green Head road because of the huge sand dune across it.  Had to backtrack a little.

 

Sunset on the beach at Green Head and a bit more of a walk.

Monday 4th June. Green Head to Hut River Principality.

Before breakfast this morning we went for a walk to the lookouts in Green Head. There's been a lot of money spent on paths and general beautification of the area. Tourism is obviously high on the agenda in Western Australia.

A couple more lookouts on our way north. The first at Leeman and then the twin towns of Dongara and Port Denniston. The Fisherman's Lookout is particularly spectacular. We had heard that sea lions had been seen at Leeman but none today. Port Denniston looks out over a lovely bay – lots of boats (popular fishing spot) and a pretty spot.

 

On to the historical settlement of Greenough (and its limestone buildings) and it's famous horizontal trees – River Red Gums (Eucalyptus Camaldulensis – one of the few botanical names we remember from our travels). It's not that windy today but by the look of the trees, that's the exception rather than the rule.

Next stop Geraldton where we did some Supermarket shopping and visited the HMAS Sydney II memorial. There's a beautiful huge dome made with 644 seagull shapes in memory of the 645 men who lost their lives when the ship went down. The other seagull features in a different section of the memorial.

A little background ….. On 19 November 1941, HMAS Sydney was involved in a mutually destructive engagement with the German auxiliary cruiser Kormoran and was lost with all hands. The wrecks of both ships lay undiscovered until 2008; Sydney was found on 17 March, five days after her adversary.  The Memorial has been built at Mount Scott. A path curves upwards to what is, in fact, a plateau at the top of Mt. Scott. This path becomes a ceremonial entrance ramp to the dedicated area and is guarded by two old bollards, from the Port of Geraldton, which almost certainly were used by the Sydney, to tie up to, on her last visit to Geraldton in 1941. The dedicated central area is comprised of a domed structure forming a Sanctuary, a vertical structure forming a Stele and a Wall forming a semi-circle, split in two, to allow access to the interior of the inner circle. This entry point into the dedicated area is flanked by flagpoles, set in real bronze ship’s propellers, echoing the Altar at the centre of the Dome of Souls. The path then follows the outside of the circle from which it extends to the Stele, on the right. Another branch turns towards a bronze figure of a woman looking out to sea, on the left.  All very beautifully done.

Camp tonight is a Hutt River Principality. It was a bit of a challenge finding it. We learnt later that is because governments choose not to signpost the “rogue” principality. Apparently, Hutt River is prepared to pay for signage but aren't allowed to put any up.

It's raining as we arrive but not heavily and more importantly it isn't cold. 

Tuesday 5th June. Hutt River Principality to Kalbarri

A wild night last night with strong winds. We ended up getting up in the rain in the middle of the night and initially roping down the awning before deciding to fold it in as the flapping was just too noisy. The couple in the tent near us were out packing up their tent and then getting into their car to sleep.

We awoke to a fine morning but very wet around the campsite. Alex helped a man in a motorhome who had moved out from under a tree during the night but had ended up bogged in a sandy spot. Maxtrax and a shovel did the job.

We walked up the hill to the Post Office, church, souvenir shop and residence. Purchased our Visas and Prince Graeme told us the story behind the reason for his father Prince Lennard seceding from the Commonwealth.  In the past, I always thought the secession a bit of a gimmick and at worst Prince Lennard a bit of a “crackpot”. After being here one can fully understand why he did what he did.

The Principality of Hutt River, often referred to by its former name, the Hutt River Province, is a micronation in Australia. The principality claims to be an independent sovereign state. It has an area of 75 square kilometres making it larger than several independent countries. It is not recognised as a country by the Australian Government or any other national government, and the High Court of Australia and Supreme Court of Western Australia have rejected submissions arguing that it is not subject to Australian laws.  While still a working farm the Principality gets considerable revenue these days from tourism, issuing its own currency, stamps and passports (which are not recognised by the Australian Government or any other government).  The micronation was founded on 21 April 1970 when Leonard Casley declared his farm to be an independent country, the Hutt River Province. He attempted to secede from Australia over a dispute concerning wheat production quotas. The Casley family had around 4,000 hectares of wheat ready to harvest when the quotas were issued but were allowed to only sell 1,647 bushels or approximately 40 hectares. A few years later, Casley began styling himself 'Prince Leonard' and granting family members royal titles, although he did not include the word "principality" in his country's official name until 2006. In February 2017 at the age of 91 and after ruling for 45 years, Prince Leonard abdicated the throne in favour of his youngest son, Prince Graeme.

We headed back to the coast to Pink Lake (Hutt Lagoon), visiting the Lynton Convict Hiring Depot along the way. The Lynton Convict Hiring Depot (1853–1857) was the first convict depot north of Fremantle. It was established on 22 May 1853 with the arrival of the 173-ton brigantine Leander, which transferred 60 ticket-of-leave convicts and Pensioner Guards (retired British soldiers) that had arrived at Fremantle on the Pyrenees on 1 May. It was established to supply labour to the Geraldine Lead Mine, 64 kilometres north of the site on the Murchison River, and to local settlers. By 1856 a store, bakery, depot, lockup, hospital, lime kiln and administration block had all been built but a lack of fresh vegetables had seen the convict population ravaged by scurvy. It was decided to close the settlement and the convicts were transferred with the officer in charge to Champion Bay in 1857. Lynton remains the most intact example of a regional convict depot in Western Australia. 

Arriving at Hutt Lagoon we were a little disappointed that it was only slightly pink and not the bright pink colour you see in the photos like this .....

There are many pink lakes around Western Australia but this is said to be one of the most impressive. The lagoon covers around 70 square kilometres and is fed by marine water. The pink colour is caused by the presence of carotenoid-producing algae, Dunaliella salina. 

The Dunaliella salina is a source of ß-carotene, a food-colouring agent and source of vitamin A. The lagoon contains the world's largest microalgae production plant, a 250-hectare (620-acre) series of artificial ponds used to farm the Dunaliella salina. The lagoon also provides a commercial supply of Artemia parthenogenetica (brine shrimp) used by prawn and fish farmers and the aquarium fish trade. The exact colour of the lake changes through every shade of red to pink to lilac, depending on the time of day, time of year and amount of cloud cover. Generally, the best time to visit is mid-morning or sunset and on a sunny day. We were there at the right time of day, but unfortunately, it is overcast today so guess the “no show” is to be expected.

We were hoping to get a coffee at Port Gregory (on the beach from the lagoon) but were disappointed once again as there was no sign of a coffe shop - not even a cafe.

On to Kalbarri township, calling into Natural Bridge and Island Rock along the way. A walk has been created here between Natural Bridge and Island Rock along a stunning bit of coastline that includes some amazing rock formations and views out to sea. The sandstone cliffs are up to 100 metres high.

Coffee was a bit of a problem in Kalbarri as well. Because of the storm last night the power was out from Geraldton to Kalbarri. Consequently, a lot of businesses had closed for the day. Eventually, we found Angie's Cafe open. Coffee at last and a bite to eat.

Camp tonight is at Big River Ranch, just out of Kalbarri. It's basically a horse riding establishment but also has accommodation and a campground.

Back to watch the sunset at Red Bluff Beach.

Wednesday 6th June. Kalbarri National Park

Didn't wake up until 8:30 this morning!! Put on some washing and hung it in the annexe before heading out to Kalbarri National Park.

Called into the headquarters on the way to pay our fee and pick up a map. They had a big map of Western Australia with all 100 national parks on it – even Karlimilyi (our destination in a little over a week). However, as it didn't have an assigned number we asked for information at the office. Not even the Ranger could give us any information. As it looked as though it might rain we headed straight to Natures Window. A lovely spot overlooking the Murchison River. The major geographical feature of the park is the Murchison River gorge carved into red and white striped Tumblagooda sandstone which runs for nearly 80 km on the lower reaches of the Murchison River. Nure's Window itself would have to be one of the most photographed Nation Park spots in the country.  We had a film crew from Singapore doing some filming while we were there.  That was pretty amusing.

 

From here we drove onto the Z Bend another lookout overlooking the river. We had lunch at one of the quite new picnic areas at the Bend. and then walked down to the lookout.  A sign showed a huge scorpion-like arthropod (Eurypterid) near parallel rock markings that were tracks made by this critter. The Eurypterid is one of the first animals ever to walk on land and grew to 2 metres in length.

 

More banksias and other wildflowers on our way back to Kalbarri (even a rainbow) and an emu on the side of the road.

Stopped off at  Meanarra Lookout with views over the mouth of the Murchison and Kalbarri town.

Called into Kalbarri IGA for a few supplies and fuelled up (apparently fuel, and everything else, gets more expensive as we travel north).

Back at camp the washing was nearly dry and as it hadn't rained all day - moved it out into the sun. 

Spaghetti Bol for dinner.

Thursday 7th June. Kalbarri to Hamlin Outback Station Stay

Rain this morning. Was sunny when we awoke and we had even considered sitting out in it to have breakfast. Then the rain and wind come up. Even too windy to cook toast on the outside kitchen.

Packed up and called at the “dump point” in Kalbarri before heading to Hawks Head lookout (another spot in Kalbarri National Park). Fortunately, the rain has stopped for the moment. Another spectacular view over the Murchison River Gorge – the colour of the rocks is pretty special. Hawk's Head is named in honour of a hawk-shaped rock formation visible from the lookout. Kalbarri National Park has quite amazing scenery and would have to be one of the most accessible National Parks of its type in the country.

Next stop, Ross Graham Lookout (named after the first schoolteacher in Kalbarri who was a devoted conservationist and aided in the exploration of the Murchison River) before walking down to the River. A lovely big waterhole at the bottom with lots of boulders – rock hopping required. Lots of Eucalyptus camaldulensis and as is always the case they're pretty spectacular. Some Ringneck parrots nesting in one of them. Started to rain again so back to the car (quickly).

Drove on to the ruins of the Warribanno Lead Smelter Complex. Still raining and a dirt road. Quite muddy in places. Wouldn't want to be out here in 2WD, particularly towing. The smelter was built in 1851 by Francis W Pearson for the Geraldine Mining Company (located approximately 5kms North-East) and was used until late 1859. It was built into a hill so that the body of the hill could act as an oven. At the base of the chimney, a large opening faced the direction of the prevailing westerlies, thus creating natural bellows. Ore and wood fuel were thrown into the cavern and fired, causing the molten lead to flow out from an opening at the bottom and down a bricked channel, where it cooled and was loaded into small trucks on a very narrow gauge railway. Bricks for the structure are believed to have been brought out from England. The first lead ingots were exported via Port Gregory in 1853.  The Warribanno Smelter Complex Ruin is the oldest identified European mining site in Western Australia and the smelter is the oldest surviving smelter in WA and one of the earliest in Australia. It consisted of one roasting and two large smelting (reverbatory) furnaces with a large chimney 105 feet above the works. Close by were cottages for workmen, blacksmith shop, a quarry and a convenient supply of wood. The Warribanno smelter is one of a complex of sites associated with the Geraldine Mining Company and with Port Gregory and the Lynton Convict Hiring Depot (visited a couple of days ago) for the shipping and transport of lead, which caused the construction of wells along an overland route through Trevenson. The name Warribanno was first recorded by surveyor William Phelps in the 1860s. It is believed to be derived from 2 aboriginal (Nanda dialect) words - Warri (fire) and Bunna (hill).  There's not a lot left today apart from the chimney itself which is still in pretty good condition - but still an amazing bit of history.

Back on the main road, we headed for the Billagong Roadhouse. Fuel was much cheaper here than at the next door Shell Service Station. Coffee and g/f brownie and caramel slice were good as well.

Camp tonight is at Hamlin Outback Station Stay near Hamlin Pools and Shark Bay. This is an Australian Bush Heritage venue. We were met by the distinctive melodious call of the Chiming Wedgwood which continued incessantly until nightfall and started up again at dawn the next morning. The Wedgwood is part of the Whipbird family (sometimes called the Chiming Whipbird) and a bit like the Whipbird, the male and female often join together in a duet. It's only a small bird but what stamina. One of those calls, once heard, never forgotten.  Hamlin Outback Station is a bit of an oasis in this dry country with a lovely waterhole frequented by pelicans, ducks and black swans.