Saturday 2nd July 2011 - Singapore to London

Caught the transfer bus at 9:30 this morning for the trip back to the airport.  Had a bit to eat at the airport before getting on the plane at 12:45.  No sooner had we got off the ground than they were around with peanuts and drinks before 'lunch' was served.  We are in an Airbus A380 (the largest passenger aircraft in the world - 471 seats).  It doesn't seem that big, I guess because it is a double-decker and we don't have anything to do with those upstairs. How they get something like this off the ground never ceases to amaze - it didn't appear to be going that fast even.  The meals were quite nice - we both had fish curry.

Arrive in Heathrow at 6:45 along with “three million” other people.  It took us ages to get through customs, not helped by my having to go back to the aircraft to get my camera which I had left under the seat.  We were picked up by the man from Heathrow lodge and delivered to our accommodation – old (and a small room) but quite adequate.   Jill and I went for a walk down the road to find an ATM (called cash machines here) to get some British pounds.  We then had dinner at the White Horse Hotel.  

The White Horse Hotel

Hard to believe it was still fairly light at 10pm.  The pub was very quaint.  Built in 1535 originally as a meat smokehouse.  You had to duck your head to get in the door.  Also some very interesting houses here, some with thatched roofs.  The first thing we have noticed about England is that everything is so old.

Sunday 3rd July 2011 – Heathrow to Ashwell

The room at Heathrow Lodge was very stuffy last night and we were awake very early – probably a combination of it being light very early and our body clock saying it was time to get up. 

Cottage at West Drayton (near Heathrow Lodge)

We went for a walk and had some breakfast (saw some squirrels) before being transferred to Heathrow Terminal 5 where we caught the tube to Finsbury Park. 

Spent a bit of time there as we couldn’t pick up the motorhome until 2:00. Found another coffee franchise called Costas which served huge cups of coffee. From Finsbury Park we caught the train to Crews Hill where Rick from Wild Horizon Campers picked us up. We were given a quick overview of the camper and then Rick was off – obviously he didn’t want to hang around on a Sunday afternoon.

It took a little time to get used to the camper – wipers where the indicator stalk should be etc but managed to find our way north to Ashwell where we stayed at a Camping and Caravanning Club site at Love Lane. A lovely spot and lovely owners, Pippa and Dave. Walked to Ashwell along a bridle track to have tea at the pub, another ancient establishment.

First night in the Campervan  at Love Lane

Ashwell

Monday 4th July 2011 – Ashwell to Nottingham

Woke early again this morning and after a walk and breakfast headed off to Cambridge.  As we couldn’t take the motor home into the city we parked at a “Park and Ride” carpark – after some difficulty finding our way in.  For some reason, they had 2.1-metre barriers which we just couldn’t fit under. Eventually, a man came and opened the barrier to let us in.

Cambridge was interesting – narrow lanes and lovely buildings. We went on a punt ride on the Cam River and had all the university buildings explained to us.

From Cambridge we headed north-west to Stragglethorpe (near Nottingham) for the night – a very different set up to last night – expensive at £23 (compared to £12 last night) and a little run down. And we had to pay an extra 20p for a shower.

Tuesday 5th July 2011 - Nottingham to Hirst Courtney

Went to a supermarket this morning to stock up – Morrisons. Was huge and sold practically everything. Morrison’s own brand produce was pretty cheap as well – 50p for peanut butter for example.

From there it was on to Sherwood Forest.  The forest is famous through its historical association with the legend of Robin Hood. Continuously forested since the end of the Ice Age, Sherwood is today reduced to a 423-hectare remnant surrounding the village of Edwinstowe. 

Sherwood Forest

The forest is now a remnant of a much larger royal hunting forest, named as the "shire wood" of Nottinghamshire, which extended into several neighbouring shires.  We had a very pleasant walk in the forest. Many oak trees including the ‘major’ oak which was at least 1100 years old. It was suggested that Robin Hood used to hide in the hollow of this tree to avoid the sheriff’s men but I doubt it.

Called into the village of Edwinstan where we visited a craft complex and then on to the ‘Royal Oak’ pub at Hirst Courtney, near Selby, where there was a camping area out the back. Had a pleasant evening chatting to the publican, Tom.

Dinner at the Royal Oak, Hirst Courtney

Wednesday 6th July 2011 – Hirst Courtney to Harton

Today was spent in York – a fascinating place. Such history. We dropped the camper off at a “Park and Ride” as you are not able to drive into the centre of the city. A coffee at Costas before we set off around the wall. York is a walled city and the wall is in surprisingly good condition considering it was built (by the Romans) around 107 AD. It encloses around 50 acres and we walked most of it during the day. 

The Roman Wall in York

Under the Romans, York was called Eboracum. It became the capital of the Roman province of Britannia Inferior, and of the kingdoms of Northumbria and Jorvik (under the Vikings).  In the Middle Ages, York grew as a major wool trading centre and became the capital of the northern ecclesiastical province of the Church of England, a role it has retained. 

We spent some time in the Shambles, an area of very narrow streets where the buildings almost touch above your head.

The Shambles

We also spent some time in the Minster, Europe’s largest Gothic Cathedral – a really impressive building built in the 1200s.

The York Minster

To support its Viking history (866 to 954 AD) York has recreated Viking village life as discovered from a buried village found in 1979 -  It was very well done.  We all found it a bit had to keep track of the number of times York changed hands.

Camp tonight was another Camping and Caravanning Club site. Pear Tree Farm at Harton just to the northeast of York. Another lovely spot with a pleasant Becky looking after us. We were the only campers there.

Thursday 7th July 2011 – Harton to Fylingthorpe

Pear Tree Farm

The first stop this morning was at Castle Howard, one of England’s finest historic houses. I read somewhere that if you were only going to see one historic home in England then this is the one.  The buildings and grounds were truly amazing. Most of it was built between 1699 and 1712 for the 3rd Earl of Carlisle, to a design by Sir John Vanbrugh. Although Castle Howard was built near the site of the ruined Henderskelfe Castle, it is not a true castle, but this term is often used for English country houses constructed after the castle-building era (c.1500) and not intended for a military function.

Castle Howard has been the home of the Howard family for more than 300 years, one wing currently occupied by the Hon Simon and Mrs Howard and 9yr old twins Merlin and Octavia.

The castle will be familiar to television and movie audiences as the fictional "Brideshead", both in Granada Television's 1981 adaptation of Evelyn Waugh's Brideshead Revisited and the 2008 remake for cinema. 

The house is surrounded by a large estate which, at the time of the 7th Earl of Carlisle, covered over 13,000 acres (5,300 ha) and included the villages of Welburn, Bulmer, Slingsby, Terrington and Coneysthorpe.  The estate was even served by its own railway station from 1845 to the 1950s.

After lunch in the camper, we set off for Robin Hood’s Bay via the North York Moors. Camped at a camping area in Fylingthorpe (more expensive and nowhere near the character of last night) and then walked a couple of kilometres to Robin Hood’s Bay. 

This place is straight out of Robert Louis Stevenson and any other story that involved smugglers, press gangs, dingy alleys etc etc. Built on a steep slope down to the beach it has all sorts of odd little houses and tiny streets. Had a drink at a pub overlooking the ocean and dinner at a different pub further up the hill.

The origin of the name is uncertain, and it is doubtful if Robin Hood was ever in the vicinity. Despite this, there is an English ballad and legend which tells a story of Robin Hood encountering French pirates who came to pillage the fisherman's boats and the northeast coast. The pirates surrendered and Robin Hood returned the loot to the poor people in the village that is now called Robin Hood's Bay.

The town had a tradition of smuggling, and there is reputed to be a network of subterranean passageways linking the houses. During the late 18th century smuggling was rife on the Yorkshire coast. Vessels from the continent brought contraband which was distributed by contacts on land and the operations were financed by syndicates who made profits without the risks taken by the seamen and the villagers. Tea, gin, rum, brandy and tobacco were among the contraband smuggled into Yorkshire from the Netherlands and France to avoid the duty.

Friday 8th July 2011 – Fylingthorpe to Hexham

We spent much of today in Whitby, an old shipbuilding village on the Esk River where Captain Cook did much of his early training. We parked up near the ruins of the Gothic Whitney Abbey and walked into town. 

Looking down on Whitby and "The House on the Harbour"

Had lunch - famous fish and chips at the Magpie Café. Good, but not as good as Starfish in Brunswick Heads. Had a wander around the streets and down to the beach. The town must be a seaside destination as the pier area is well set up with amusements to keep the holidaymakers happy. Also went to the Captain Cook museum in a house where Cook had lodged while he was an apprentice.

Fish and Chips lunch at Magpie Cafe

We have had rain on and off over the last couple of days. It set in again just as we were leaving Whitby around 2:15 and kept up most of the way to Hexham, west of Newcastle on Tyne. Camping at Greencarts Farm tonight ready to do some exploring of Hadrian’s Wall tomorrow. Then it’s off to Scotland.

Saturday 9th July 2011 – Hexham to Greenlaw

We spent some time on Hadrian’s Wall today, mainly at Housestead.  The wall was built when Hadrian became emperor in charge of Britain from AD117.  The wall was designed to allow passage from both sides but kept out invading hordes.  84 miles long it stretches across the country from Newcastle Upon Tyne to Carlisle.  Housesteads is the best-known fort on Hadrian's Wall and is one of the most iconic sites of the Roman Empire.  It was one of the permanent forts added to the Wall around AD 124. Known to the Romans as 'Vercovicium', 'the place of effective fighters', Housesteads was garrisoned by around 1,000 infantry (generally Tungrians from what is now Belgium), later reinforced by Germanic cavalry.  While it's in ruins it’s still pretty impressive.

From Housestead we headed north to the Scottish Border.  First it was lunch (soup) at a small pub at Ridsdale and then across the border to Jedburgh where we ran into a storm.  Enough hail to give the impression that it was snowing.  

A bit of shopping at Jedsburgh and then on to the Blackadder Caravan Park in Greenlaw.

Sunday 10th July 2011 – Greenlaw to Edinburgh

Rang mum this morning for her 102nd birthday.  About 4:30 in Australia and she was getting ready for a party in Caringbah.

Drove back to Kelso for to go to their Sunday morning market.  Brought some veges and bacon to make up some soup for tea.  Then on to Duns to see if we could locate any information on Jill’s Stoddart forebears.  

Closest we got was a headstone for Jane and John, children of Thomas who was Jill’s great great great grandfather. (His middle child, William emigrated to Australia).  Then called at Stuart’s Pub for coffee and ended up having a roast lamb lunch.

From there it was on to the caravan park in Edinburgh.  Caught a taxi into the old town and took the hop-on-hop-off bus to get an overview of the city.  

Got home to cook the soup and have dinner at 10:30pm.  It’s still light outside.

Monday 11th July 2011 – Edinburgh

It’s raining.  Caught the minibus into Edinburgh city around 9:30.  Meandered around the streets looking for the Elephant Café from where JK Rowlings wrote the first of the Harry Potter books.  A lovely view from the back room towards Edinburgh Castle – the coffee and gf slice was pretty good too.

The Elephant Cafe

From there to the information centre where we met up with Margaret and Arthur (friends from Australia who are also over here).  Had lunch together.

Hopped on the Hop-On-Hop-Off bus and went to Edinburgh Castle.  

Edinburgh Castle is a fortress that dominates the skyline of the city, from its position atop the volcanic Castle Rock. Human habitation of the site is dated back as far as the 9th century BC, although the nature of the early settlement is unclear. There has been a royal castle here since at least the reign of David I in the 12th century, and the site continued to be a royal residence until the Union of the Crowns in 1603. From the 15th century, the castle's residential role declined, and by the 17th century, its principal role was as a military base with a large garrison. As one of the most important fortresses in the Kingdom of Scotland, Edinburgh Castle was involved in many historical conflicts, from the Wars of Scottish Independence in the 14th century, up to the Jacobite Rising of 1745, and has been besieged, both successfully and unsuccessfully, on several occasions.

St Margaret's Chapel is the oldest surviving building in Edinburgh and dates from the early 12th century.  Among other significant buildings of the castle are the Royal Palace, and the early-16th-century Great Hall. 

The castle is also the backdrop to the annual Edinburgh Military Tattoo which was being set up while we were there.  So much to see there, including the Crown Jewels of Scotland.  

On the way down the street, we called into a show of Scottish Clansmen and how they were “fearsome and fearless!”  In the same building was a woollen mill.  Unfortunately, they had finished weaving for the day but it was still interesting.  A bit further down the street, we visited a national trust house.  Quite fascinating and very well presented.  Had dinner at the Castle Arms Hotel in Johnston Terrace and then on to the Jazz Bar where a 17 piece band was performing.  About 10:30 caught a taxi back to the Silver Knows caravan park.

Tuesday 12th July 2011 – Edinburgh to Stirling

A morning walk to Cramond on the ocean.  There were mud flats out to Cramond Island (low tide) and also a walkway (I mile long).  We didn't walk out to the island as the tide was just turning.  Lots of ducks (and crows).  The small village of Cramond was on an inlet and very popular with the boating community – lots of boats sitting in the low tide mud with a couple of white swans swimming around (and lots of ducks).

Back to the caravan park to pack up and set off to Stirling Castle.

 

Stopped at Costa Coffee after having lunch in the motor home.  The large coffee was ‘huge’.  Called at the information centre and got some information on Stirling then took the park and ride to the castle.  

As part of the entrance fee, we were provided with headphones for an audio tour.  It was very well done and provide great background information on the castle.  Stirling is one of the largest and most important castles in Scotland. 

The castle sits atop Castle Hill and is surrounded on three sides by steep cliffs, giving it a strong defensive position. Most of the buildings of the castle date from the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. Several Scottish Kings and Queens have been crowned at Stirling, including Mary, Queen of Scots, in 1543. There have been at least eight sieges of Stirling Castle, including several during the Wars of Scottish Independence, with the last being in 1746, when Bonnie Prince Charlie unsuccessfully tried to take the castle.

Back to the Park and Ride and off to the Witches Craig caravan park for the night (just east of Stirling).  It has an amazing backdrop of hills.

Wednesday 13th July 2011 – Stirling to Saint Andrews

Left Witches Craig Caravan Park and drove back to Stirling via the Wallace Monument - a tower standing on the summit of Abbey Craig. It commemorates Sir William Wallace a 13th-century Scottish hero.  The tower was constructed following a fundraising campaign that accompanied a resurgence of Scottish national identity in the 19th century and was completed in 1869 and is a 67-metre sandstone tower.  We had a nice walk to the top and a longer walk back to the motor home through the forest.

Back in Stirling where we walked through the old town before setting off to St Andrews for “the boys” date with the New Course at 3 pm. 

We enjoyed the game, despite the scores.  Richard managed a 38 (Stableford) which is pretty good but I could only manage a 32.  Found too many bunkers and areas of heather.  The bunkers are amazing – more like a well with vertical walls.  If you could hit straight  (neither of us could do that regularly) the course was not too difficult – plenty of run and the greens ran true.

Finished the game about 7pm (hard to get used to this extended daylight) and went for dinner at the Dolls House restaurant – very delicious.

Thursday 14th July 2011 – Saint Andrews to Banchory

Last night at the Cairnmill Caravan Park.  Today is a gloriously sunny day (yesterday was pretty good too).  In T-shirts today.  Decided to travel down the coast to Crail, a lovely little fishing village with a harbour.  

Had coffee sitting in the sun next to a huge sand sculpture of Beethoven (or some other composer).  They are getting ready for their arts, craft and music festival next week.  

After lunch, it was back to St Andrews, then on to Banchory via Stonehaven to Cath and Gregor’s house (and Callum, Emily and James).  Catherine took us for a drive to the River Dee to watch the salmon swimming up the fish ladder, then to a nearby castle where we will visit tomorrow.  

The children had had their dinner and so were off to bed.  We sat down to a delicious fish pie and salad with some nice wine and discussion re whisky and the difference between scotch and whisky etc.  A lovely evening.