Tuesday 15th March 2016 - Fraser Island

An early start this morning in preparations for our trip to Fraser Island.  We had all stayed the night at friends Peter and Maz at Dundowran Beach and were up early to catch the Kingfisher Bay Ferry from River Heads at 9am.  By all, I mean travelling companions Margaret and Arthur and Jill and I.  Our trip was also to include some French visitors but unfortunately a broken ankle meant a change of plans for them at the last minute.

River Heads is about 20 minutes south of Hervey Bay and is quite a little settlement on its own.  They were doing some roadworks so we had to detour through the village itself.  While waiting to board the ferry we reduced the air pressure in our tyres ready for the sand driving on Fraser.  We took them down to 18psi.

After backing the Prado and camper onto the ferry we all headed upstairs for the 45 minute trip to Kingfisher Bay, the resort on the western side of the island.  Apparently they don't like you to stay downstairs with your vehicles.  Guess it would have been pretty boring.

Kingfisher Bay Ferry

There is no problem with tides and driving on soft beach sand at Kingfisher as you drive off the ferry onto a wharf and then into the island itself.  We did contemplate stopping at the resort for a coffee but thought better of it as we needed to get to camp at least an hour before high tide at 1:25pm.

While the road through the island was quite sandy (of course) it was in pretty good condition and we had no trouble on the run across the island arriving on the eastern beach just south of Poyungan Rocks.  The only issue we had was finding spots to pass oncoming traffic but we had Arthur and Margaret in the lead so we had plenty of warning.

Across the Island and up the beach

Once on the beach, it was an easy run north to Camping Zone 3 (between Poyungan Rocks and Happy Valley).  These days you have to tell National Parks which one of the 9 camping zones you are going to camp in.  We had been told that Zone 3 had some good camps in it and it also meant we were off the beach before high tide.  The bypass around the rocks helped make it an even easier run.

We checked out the campsites almost to Happy Valley but eventually came back to one of the earlier sites we had sussed out.  We set up the camper while Margaret and Arthur put up their tent.  The forecast was for some rain each day so we decided to put up the annex extension to give us a bit more protection.

Camp on Fraser

After setting up it was a restful afternoon watching the passing parade driving up and down the beach.  We had chosen a spot with a low dune so we had a great view out to sea.    Later in the afternoon we went for a walk up the beach so that Arthur (our keen fisherman) could get some inside information on the fishing situation.  Apparently they were not catching much.  There were plenty of bluebottles so just as well we were not going swimming.  You are encouraged not to swim in the ocean on the Fraser Coast.

Dinner tonight was spaghetti bolognese that we had frozen and brought with us.  Shared with a beer and a little wine it was a pleasant evening with only an occasional shower keeping us under cover.

Wednesday 16th March - Fraser Island

On our walk yesterday afternoon we found the beginning of a walk we thought was the walk to Rainbow Gorge.  This morning we planned to have a look on a walk before breakfast.  As it turned out it was actually a walk across the island and fairly overgrown.  After a few hundred metres walk to the top of a hill, we decided that would be enough.  Saw a pretty impressive spider along the way.  We presumed it was a Golden Orb.

Back to camp for breakfast just as the rain started to come down.  This changed the plans a little and the decision was made to head up to Happy Valley and then west to Lake Garawongera.  This would also get us away from the March Flies which have been pretty annoying this trip.

Along the beach before Happy Valley we came across two small planes which are used for joy flights over the island.  No sign of anyone around.

Also before happy valley we had a short detour inland around Yidney Rocks.  These detours enable travel up and down the beach most of the day (excluding right on high tide).  Happy Valley village is quite a bit larger than when we were here 8 - 10 years ago.  In addition to the general store, there are quite a few venues to accommodate tourists.

Happy Valley

The drive to Lake Garawongera is through rainforest and we continue to be amazed at the size of the trees which grow on this sand island.

Lake Garawongera is a beautiful spot and we shared it with quite a few backpackers who were busy sunbaking (at least until it started to rain).  There is quite an emphasis on Dingo Dangers wherever you go and apparently it's breeding season, a time when their behaviour can be unpredictable.  We haven't seen any yet although we did see paw prints on our walk this morning.

Lake Garawongera

The road to the lake was a circuit which ended up back on the beach near our campsite just in time for lunch.  After a bit of down time we headed off to Kirrar Sandblow a little way up the beach.  It was an enjoyable walk in and had some great views of both the sand blow and back towards the ocean.

Kirrar Sandblow

Back at camp it was time to prepare for the roast dinner.  M&A had the roast chicken and we had the vegetables.  Two camp ovens over heat beads.  It was all delicious and of course we did have a nice table presentation with candles and a banksia centrepiece to add to the atmosphere.

Thursday 17th March 2016 - Fraser Island

Last night was a little wild with heavy rain and wind on and off and it's still raining this morning.  Today's plan is to take a drive up the beach as far as Orchid Beach and have a swim in Champagne Pools, a protected ocean swimming spot past Indian Head.  Hopefully there will be some sunny spots while were out of the car.

First stop was the Maheno wreck  some distance north of Happy Valley.  We did contemplate calling in at Eli Creek but decided to put that off until this afternoon.

The SS Maheno was an ocean liner belonging to the Union Company of New Zealand that operated in theTasman Sea, crossing between New Zealand and Australia, from 1905 until 1935. She was washed ashore on Fraser Island by a cyclone in 1935 where the disintegrating wreck remains as a popular tourist attraction.  There is a little less of the wreck each time we visit.

The SS Mahino

A little further up the beach we made a stop at The Pinnacles a spot where the coloured sands found here, Rainbow Gorge, the Cahedrals and Red Canyon are evident.  

The Pinnacles

On arriving at Indian Head we took the inland route around the headland and on to Champagne Pools.  This area is often very soft and a bit of a challenge getting through without getting bogged.  At least it was last time we were here.  It was no problem today, probably because the rain is packing the sand down.

At champagne pools we found we would need to share the water with at least one tour bus and several tagalong groups.  There were people everywhere.  When it started to rain we decided to head up to Orchid Beach for a coffee and return a little later.

Indian Head and Champagne Pools

What a great decision that was.  When we arrived back some time later (after a coffee at the general store and a drive around Orchid Beach) a bus was just departing leaving the pools completely empty ready for the four of us to enjoy.  The water was just great.

Champagne Pools

Eli Creek is always a popular spot.  A freshwater swimming spot as opposed to the saltwater swimming spot at Champagne Pools.  There has been a lot of work completed here since our last visit including a walkway for quite a way along the creek.  Arthur and Alex had a walk along the creek but we all decided that we didn't need another swim. 

Eli Creek

Back to camp so that Arthur had time to catch some fish to put on the barbecue tonight.  He did catch a few small ones but nothing to replace the steak we had brought as a backup.  A beautiful sunset tonight with a pale pink sky.

Friday 18th March 2016 - Fraser Island

Bacon and Eggs this morning for breakfast before packing up and heading south, first to Eurong and then inland to Central Station.  Our ferry this afternoon goes from Wanggoobla Creek back to River Heads.  Our plan is to visit Central Station and Lake McKenzie along the way.

This road across the island is even better than the track across from Kingfisher Bay and for much of the distance is divided road so we don't have the issue of meeting busses head on.

Central Station was once the centre of the forestry industry when there was logging on Fraser Island, these days this amazing rainforest area houses a display explaining the development of Fraser Island and its various flora and fauna, information centre and picnic area.

Central Station provides of a picnic area with a scenic boardwalk through the rainforest along the banks of the Wanggoolba Creek quite a beautiful spot.

Central Station

From Central Station we then headed north to Lake McKenzie, first for a swim and then lunch (inside a fenced area away from the dingoes - we still have not seen one.)  Lake McKenzie is a very popular spot and there were lots of young people with loud music and huge water toys.  This didn't distract from a very enjoyable swim in the crystal clear water.

Lake McZenzie

Lunch inside the fenced enclosure was shared with a number of monitors.  They have obviously worked out that they can get a feed here.  So have the Kookaburras and doves.  No sign of Dingoes though.

We arrived at Wanggoobla Creek with plenty of time to spare - a bit too much time considering it has become a very hot day.  The rain has gone for the moment and it's very steamy.  It was much easier to get around the island then we had expected and had left too much time to get from Lake McKenzie to the creek.  We could have had another swim.  We had plenty of time to reinflate our tyres ready for the hard surfaces on the mainland.

The Fraser Venture Barge is smaller that the Kingfisher Bay Ferry and while it had an upstairs was very hot and not all that pleasant.  We found a spot in the shade near the rear stairs.  This time we drove front on and had to back off at River Heads.

Fraser Venture

And what did we think of Fraser?   It continues to be a lovely spot.  We did not see the overcrowding (apart from Lake McKenzie) that is often mentioned, although there is a lot more commercial activity then there has been in the past - more busses and more tag along tours.  The fact that we were there during the week in March might have something to do with it.  The Ferry is expensive for both a vehicle and camper trailer but then any holiday is expensive.  The March flies were not a lot of fun.  The rain was very accommodating and did not detract from our stay. Three nights only gives you the opportunity to see some of the island.  You really need longer.  Would we do it again?  Definitely!