Had a very good night’s sleep. It is very quiet here which is amazing when you think we are only 20 minutes from the centre of a city of over 250,000 people. Alain had recommended some spots to visit today so after breakfast, it was off to St Émilion, about 40 kilometres away.
St Émilion is famous for two things. Its wine and its medieval architecture. The Romans planted vineyards in what was to become Saint-Émilion as early as the 2nd century. In the 4th century, the Latin poet Ausonius lauded the fruit of the bountiful vine. The town was named after the Benedictine monk Émilion, a travelling confessor, who settled in a hermitage carved into the rock there in the 8th century. It was the monks who followed him that started up the commercial wine production in the area.
Our first stop was the information centre where we booked in for the 2pm English tour of the largest monolithic (from one rock) cathedral in Europe carved into the side of a limestone cliff face and built by the Benedictine Monks after Émilion’s death.
The guide linked Émilion to Robin Hood in that he stole from the rich and gave to the poor. It appears he was also credited with a number of miracles resulting in quite a following. The cathedral is marvellous. Also saw the cave where Émilion lived.
Lots of lovely buildings and narrow cobbled streets and lanes, often quite steep. The village is completely surrounded by vineyards which are covered in grapes at the moment – mostly merlot. Some interesting history here is the Jurade of St Émilion, a brotherhood of wine producers who trace their roots back to 1199 when they received a royal charter by John Lackland, King of England. Bordeaux was under English control at the time (which is fascinating in itself). The Jurade were granted economic, political and legal rights in return for English merchant priority over anyone else with regard to buying the wines from Saint Émilion.
The whole area, including some of the surrounding vineyards is protected by UNESCO.
Bought a bottle of wine and some macaroons for which Saint Émilion is also famous – the macaroon recipe being handed down from the Ursuline sisters who established their convent here in 1620.
Back to Bordeaux for a bit of a rest and then dinner with Alain and Francoise. Lovely to talk to someone about French matters. Without Alain's advice, we would have never seen St Emilian. That's one of the benefits of couch surfing.
A selection of French cheeses for dessert and off to bed for an early night. We have thoroughly enjoyed our stay with Alain and Francoise.
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| The largest Monolithic Cathedral in the World |
Our first stop was the information centre where we booked in for the 2pm English tour of the largest monolithic (from one rock) cathedral in Europe carved into the side of a limestone cliff face and built by the Benedictine Monks after Émilion’s death.
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| Vines everywhere! |
The guide linked Émilion to Robin Hood in that he stole from the rich and gave to the poor. It appears he was also credited with a number of miracles resulting in quite a following. The cathedral is marvellous. Also saw the cave where Émilion lived.
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| Narrow Streets |
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| ... and more narrow streets |
The whole area, including some of the surrounding vineyards is protected by UNESCO.
Bought a bottle of wine and some macaroons for which Saint Émilion is also famous – the macaroon recipe being handed down from the Ursuline sisters who established their convent here in 1620.
Back to Bordeaux for a bit of a rest and then dinner with Alain and Francoise. Lovely to talk to someone about French matters. Without Alain's advice, we would have never seen St Emilian. That's one of the benefits of couch surfing.
A selection of French cheeses for dessert and off to bed for an early night. We have thoroughly enjoyed our stay with Alain and Francoise.
