Monday 12th October - Etosha National Park (Namatoni)

This morning we set off early to a farm about 45 minutes drive from Fiume (owned by the father of the  Fiume managers).  It has a community of San people (sometimes called the Kalahari Bushmen but rarely used these days as that title is seen as derivative - anyone who watched "God's Must be Crazy" couldn't possibly think that!!).  This village is set up to do an educational presentation and was just amazing.  We were met by the farm owner out on the road (a very interesting man passionate about working with the San and protecting their culture) who then guided us to the village where we met Peter (a tiny man in a lap lap looking as if he could have just stepped out of the movie).  

Pete's English was very good and he took us to meet the rest of the community sitting around in front of thatched huts.  There were lots of children playing despite the fact that we were told the older ones were away at school.  The kids were very happy playing in the dirt.  Some had made people out of straw and some had tiny bows and arrows.  

We were taken a bit further into the bush and shown how the San used plants for medicine, and how they would have trapped prey, snaring and using poison arrows to shoot antelope etc.  This was done by the medicine man in the 'click' language of the San (interpreted by Peter).  In reality, it is now illegal for them to hunt for game any larger than hares so it will be interesting to see just how much longer they can retain their culture.  

Back at camp, we were shown how the make fire, manufacture string and make jewellery from seeds and ostrich shell.  We were then entertained - some singing and skipping games which included all the women, many of the men and the kids as well.  They all looked as if they were having fun.  

 

The children (the little ones) were fascinated with Wendy's Ipad and Jennie's bobbles (on her top) and the zips on Jill';s shorts.  Wendy and Jennie both had on white shorts so you can imagine how they looked after being climbed on by naked children who had been playing in the dirt.  

The villagers had some of their jewellery for sale but there was no hard sell here.  Naturally, we all had to buy something.  It was a wonderful visit and one of the highlights of our trip.

From the village, we headed south-west to Grootfontein (more fuel and coffee for some) and then north-west towards Tsumeb past Otjikoto Lake (a huge sink hole of undetermined depth) and on to the Namutoni Gate of Etosha National Park.

We are now on Ian's home turf so he was keen to show us around before it got too late.  Sightings for the afternoon included:  Giraffe; Impala; Tawny Eagle; Elephant; Blacksmith Lapwing: Oryx (Gemsbok); Dik (antelope); Springbok (antelope); Yellow Billed Hornbill; Drongo; Yellow Canary; Steenbok (antelope); Pale Chanting Goshawk; Kori Bustard; Blue Waxbill; Burchell’s Zebra; Black-backed Jackal; Spotted Hyena; Moorhen; Namaqua Sandgrouse; Red Eyed Dove; and Grey Heron.

While Ian booked us into the lodge for the night we explored Namutoni Fort built by the Germans in 1896.  From the tower, we could see an elephant just below doing what elephants do a lot of the time - eat.

The lodges were very impressive.  Well appointed and even an outside shower which Jill gave 10/10.

Dinner in the dining room was the usual "large" lodge affair of a buffet.  We were looking forward to eating outside but to do that we would have had to share the space with smokers so inside it was.