The drive from Sabi River Sun to Nelspruit had been quite uneventful. There was a surprising amount of traffic already out and about including a lot of police cars, usually travelling in pairs. The only challenge was that the high beam on the Combi wasn't all that effective and we were a bit concerned about wildlife on the road - didn't see a thing.
The terminal at Neilspruit is quite new and very nicely built in an African style. After checking in (luggage booked straight through to Livingstone :-) ) we just had time for a cuppa before boarding or very small jet, a 37 seat Embraer 135. There was some concern expressed by some of the party at the size of the plane but as it turned out the flight was very smooth and we we're in Joburg in no time.
We had breakfast at Jacksons (same spot as last week) and then made our way to the Gate for our 10:40 flight. By the time we got through immigration our flight was already boarding. Both these flights obviously lack the importance of the larger international routes (although this time the plane was bigger - a 120 seat Airbus 319-100) as we we're ferried some distance to and from the planes by buses.
No entertainment on this flight although they did feed us - cold meat and cheese. They did have a very interesting in-flight magazine, however. Read quite a bit about where we're going in Namibia AND found out that the tortoise we saw in Kruger the other day was a Leopard Tortoise.
We arrived in Livingstone at about 12:30. The airport is quite small and looks as if it is still under construction. It took some time to get through immigration as everyone also required Visa as (US$50 each). We were a little surprised at the $US dollar bit as we had read that in 2013 when the Kwacha was revalued it was decreed that all dealings were to be in Kwacha. We had also read that this had been revoked so were not sure what to expect. Fortunately, we had all brought some American dollars for such an occasion.
Once through immigration, we fronted up to the ATMs to get some local currency to pay for a taxi. Both ATMS we're not working but fortunately, the money exchange bureaus were. We exchanged $US50 for about 580 Kwacha.
Then out to the taxi stand where the little man (there's always a little man) wanted all our details, where we were staying, what we're we hoping to do, did we have our combined Zambia/Zimbabwe Visa as it was the dry season and there was no water flowing over the Zambian side of the falls. Oops no we didn't! Our Visa was only for Zambia. He advised us to go back to immigration as the combined Visa was the same price, otherwise, we would have to pay another US $30 if we wanted to cross into Zimbabwe. So back to immigration we went, where the kind lady changed our Visas - no problem.
Back out to get a taxi where the said little man started organising a van taxi that we could all fit in. He was also looking for a tip for the advice he had provided on Visas. No metres in taxis here. You arrange a price before you set off. The little man said this taxi would take us for $US10. Obviously, we weren't paying for everything in Kwacha (Not yet anyway).
Our accommodation for the next three days is Gloria's B&B, a few blocks from the main Street. We were met by their 8 - 9 old son Alan and then his Dad, also Alan, before being shown to our rooms by Angela. We met Gloria a little later. Jill and I have a large single bedroom cottage which it's very comfortable and clean. Not cheap at $US440 for the 4 nights but nice to support a local family who in turn are employing local people. A groundsman, a guard at night (not that we have felt at all threatened in Zambia - petty theft can be a problem says Alan, but there is little violence) several housemaids etc. Jennie, Richard and Wendy are in a much smaller "motel" room (less than US $300).
Gloria is a youngish Zambian lady while Alan is an older (ex ) English gent. They've been together about 10 years and have built up the business - 2 cottages and four motel rooms with another cottage under construction. They have two children Alan and a baby and Gloria's older daughter, Vanessa ( Year 11, hoping to do business administration or architecture) is also pay of the group.
There was no power when we arrived. Apparently, enough power is a problem for Zambia and there is often load shedding to reduce demand. It did come back on after a while which meant we could put our air conditioner on. After a little downtime, Alan took us for a drive in his Prado into town and showed us where the markets were, the good places to eat, good coffee etc. He dropped us off and we headed for Kubu Cafe for a late lunch. Coffee and a shared Tropical Chicken Salad with Jill. Just delicious including lychee and peaches. While there we had quite a downpour and the power went off as it did in the supermarket door. Was interesting watching the scramble. Doors closed on the supermarket, tables in out of the rain etc. Not sure whether the outage was short or generators kicked in but things were back to normal fairly quickly.
After lunch we went to the supermarket for a few supplies. The only thing we couldn't buy were corn cakes. No sign of such things, in fact, nothing in the savoury biscuit line made of anything other than wheat (apart from rice crackers so we bought). Fruit was a bit light on. We were looking for an avocado for dinner but they were as hard as a rock.
Jill and I walked back to Gloria's while the others took a cab. Zambia it's obviously not a rich country and funds do not stretch to well-developed infrastructure. Some of the roads even within the town are dirt as are some of the footpaths. There it's also no obvious rich as there is in South Africa. Perhaps that's all in another part of town. The people are friendly and non-threatening although you do get hassled to buy stuff. I guess that's understandable as they do need to make a living. What does surprise us is the amount of rubbish lying about (although I'm not sure why it should surprise us)? There's a huge contrast between the condition of the streets with rubbish everywhere and people's yards which are spotless.
After a late lunch it was a bottle of wine and crackers for dinner then off to bed. It's been a long day.
