TRIP LIST

Tuesday 5th June. Hutt River Principality to Kalbarri


A wild night last night with strong winds. We ended up getting up in the rain in the middle of the night and initially roping down the awning before deciding to fold it in as the flapping was just too noisy. The couple in the tent near us were out packing up their tent and then getting into their car to sleep.


We awoke to a fine morning but very wet around the campsite. Alex helped a man in a motorhome who had moved out from under a tree during the night but had ended up bogged in a sandy spot. Maxtrax and a shovel did the job.


We walked up the hill to the Post Office, church, souvenir shop and residence. Purchased our Visas and Prince Graeme told us the story behind the reason for his father Prince Lennard seceding from the Commonwealth.  In the past, I always thought the secession a bit of a gimmick and at worst Prince Lennard a bit of a “crackpot”. After being here one can fully understand why he did what he did.



The Principality of Hutt River, often referred to by its former name, the Hutt River Province, is a micronation in Australia. The principality claims to be an independent sovereign state. It has an area of 75 square kilometres making it larger than several independent countries. It is not recognised as a country by the Australian Government or any other national government, and the High Court of Australia and Supreme Court of Western Australia have rejected submissions arguing that it is not subject to Australian laws.  While still a working farm the Principality gets considerable revenue these days from tourism, issuing its own currency, stamps and passports (which are not recognised by the Australian Government or any other government).  The micronation was founded on 21 April 1970 when Leonard Casley declared his farm to be an independent country, the Hutt River Province. He attempted to secede from Australia over a dispute concerning wheat production quotas. The Casley family had around 4,000 hectares of wheat ready to harvest when the quotas were issued but were allowed to only sell 1,647 bushels or approximately 40 hectares. A few years later, Casley began styling himself 'Prince Leonard' and granting family members royal titles, although he did not include the word "principality" in his country's official name until 2006. In February 2017 at the age of 91 and after ruling for 45 years, Prince Leonard abdicated the throne in favour of his youngest son, Prince Graeme.

We headed back to the coast to Pink Lake (Hutt Lagoon), visiting the Lynton Convict Hiring Depot along the way. The Lynton Convict Hiring Depot (1853–1857) was the first convict depot north of Fremantle. It was established on 22 May 1853 with the arrival of the 173-ton brigantine Leander, which transferred 60 ticket-of-leave convicts and Pensioner Guards (retired British soldiers) that had arrived at Fremantle on the Pyrenees on 1 May. It was established to supply labour to the Geraldine Lead Mine, 64 kilometres north of the site on the Murchison River, and to local settlers. By 1856 a store, bakery, depot, lockup, hospital, lime kiln and administration block had all been built but a lack of fresh vegetables had seen the convict population ravaged by scurvy. It was decided to close the settlement and the convicts were transferred with the officer in charge to Champion Bay in 1857. Lynton remains the most intact example of a regional convict depot in Western Australia. 



Arriving at Hutt Lagoon we were a little disappointed that it was only slightly pink and not the bright pink colour you see in the photos like this .....


There are many pink lakes around Western Australia but this is said to be one of the most impressive. The lagoon covers around 70 square kilometres and is fed by marine water. The pink colour is caused by the presence of carotenoid-producing algae, Dunaliella salina. 



The Dunaliella salina is a source of ß-carotene, a food-colouring agent and source of vitamin A. The lagoon contains the world's largest microalgae production plant, a 250-hectare (620-acre) series of artificial ponds used to farm the Dunaliella salina. The lagoon also provides a commercial supply of Artemia parthenogenetica (brine shrimp) used by prawn and fish farmers and the aquarium fish trade. The exact colour of the lake changes through every shade of red to pink to lilac, depending on the time of day, time of year and amount of cloud cover. Generally, the best time to visit is mid-morning or sunset and on a sunny day. We were there at the right time of day, but unfortunately, it is overcast today so guess the “no show” is to be expected.

We were hoping to get a coffee at Port Gregory (on the beach from the lagoon) but were disappointed once again as there was no sign of a coffe shop - not even a cafe.

On to Kalbarri township, calling into Natural Bridge and Island Rock along the way. A walk has been created here between Natural Bridge and Island Rock along a stunning bit of coastline that includes some amazing rock formations and views out to sea. The sandstone cliffs are up to 100 metres high.




Coffee was a bit of a problem in Kalbarri as well. Because of the storm last night the power was out from Geraldton to Kalbarri. Consequently, a lot of businesses had closed for the day. Eventually, we found Angie's Cafe open. Coffee at last and a bite to eat.


Camp tonight is at Big River Ranch, just out of Kalbarri. It's basically a horse riding establishment but also has accommodation and a campground.

Back to watch the sunset at Red Bluff Beach.





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