Rain this morning. Was sunny when we awoke and we had even considered sitting out in it to have breakfast. Then the rain and wind come up. Even too windy to cook toast on the outside kitchen.
Packed up and called at the “dump point” in Kalbarri before heading to Hawks Head lookout (another spot in Kalbarri National Park). Fortunately, the rain has stopped for the moment. Another spectacular view over the Murchison River Gorge – the colour of the rocks is pretty special. Hawk's Head is named in honour of a hawk-shaped rock formation visible from the lookout. Kalbarri National Park has quite amazing scenery and would have to be one of the most accessible National Parks of its type in the country.
Next stop, Ross Graham Lookout (named after the first schoolteacher in Kalbarri who was a devoted conservationist and aided in the exploration of the Murchison River) before walking down to the River. A lovely big waterhole at the bottom with lots of boulders – rock hopping required. Lots of Eucalyptus camaldulensis and as is always the case they're pretty spectacular. Some Ringneck parrots nesting in one of them. Started to rain again so back to the car (quickly).
Drove on to the ruins of the Warribanno Lead Smelter Complex. Still raining and a dirt road. Quite muddy in places. Wouldn't want to be out here in 2WD, particularly towing. The smelter was built in 1851 by Francis W Pearson for the Geraldine Mining Company (located approximately 5kms North-East) and was used until late 1859. It was built into a hill so that the body of the hill could act as an oven. At the base of the chimney, a large opening faced the direction of the prevailing westerlies, thus creating natural bellows. Ore and wood fuel were thrown into the cavern and fired, causing the molten lead to flow out from an opening at the bottom and down a bricked channel, where it cooled and was loaded into small trucks on a very narrow gauge railway. Bricks for the structure are believed to have been brought out from England. The first lead ingots were exported via Port Gregory in 1853. The Warribanno Smelter Complex Ruin is the oldest identified European mining site in Western Australia and the smelter is the oldest surviving smelter in WA and one of the earliest in Australia. It consisted of one roasting and two large smelting (reverbatory) furnaces with a large chimney 105 feet above the works. Close by were cottages for workmen, blacksmith shop, a quarry and a convenient supply of wood. The Warribanno smelter is one of a complex of sites associated with the Geraldine Mining Company and with Port Gregory and the Lynton Convict Hiring Depot (visited a couple of days ago) for the shipping and transport of lead, which caused the construction of wells along an overland route through Trevenson. The name Warribanno was first recorded by surveyor William Phelps in the 1860s. It is believed to be derived from 2 aboriginal (Nanda dialect) words - Warri (fire) and Bunna (hill). There's not a lot left today apart from the chimney itself which is still in pretty good condition - but still an amazing bit of history.
Back on the main road, we headed for the Billagong Roadhouse. Fuel was much cheaper here than at the next door Shell Service Station. Coffee and g/f brownie and caramel slice were good as well.
Camp tonight is at Hamlin Outback Station Stay near Hamlin Pools and Shark Bay. This is an Australian Bush Heritage venue. We were met by the distinctive melodious call of the Chiming Wedgwood which continued incessantly until nightfall and started up again at dawn the next morning. The Wedgwood is part of the Whipbird family (sometimes called the Chiming Whipbird) and a bit like the Whipbird, the male and female often join together in a duet. It's only a small bird but what stamina. One of those calls, once heard, never forgotten. Hamlin Outback Station is a bit of an oasis in this dry country with a lovely waterhole frequented by pelicans, ducks and black swans.
