Saturday/Sunday 23/24 December, 2006 - To Hanoi

 We left Brisbane at 1/4 to 12 on 23rd December.  Arrived at Changi airport, Singapore, at 5 past 5am on the 24th.  Quite happy with Singapore Airlines, apart from not having much room.  Guess a large person would need to fly First Class.  Bit of a wait in Singapore.  Fortunately, they have good coffee and free internet - an opportunity for us to email everyone.  If you have to wait in any airport, then Changi would be it - an amazing orchid display right in the middle of the airport.  

Back on the plane around 7am for the final leg to Hanoi.  Total flight time about 10 hours.  Quite a view from the plane.  You could see the Mekong Delta with huge brown ribbons of river, the patchwork of intensive agriculture, and silvery-brown dots of buildings along all the roads and waterways.  You can certainly believe that 77% of the population of 80 million live in rural areas.

After coming through customs, we were met by a guide plus a driver (and vehicle) to transfer us to our hotel, The Galaxy.  What a good idea that was, to have a hotel booked for the first few nights so that we didn't have to deal with the street life, touts, etc., immediately.  Besides, it was about 40 minutes from the airport.  Lots of new building going on in Vietnam and plenty of businesses popping up.

After settling into our rooms, we went for a walk in the Old Quarter - what an experience that was!  To cross the road, we all went together, and if you just begin to walk steadily across the road, the mostly motorbikes (some carrying whole families of 5, or Christmas trees, pigs in cages and so on), just managed to miss you.  We booked Water Puppets for tomorrow, had dinner at the Kangaroo Cafe and checked out a few prices on trips to Sapa and Halong Bay.

Peach Schnapps to put us to sleep (nowhere near as nice as butterscotch).

Monday 25 December, 2006 - Hanoi (Christmas Day)

No Public Holiday for Christmas Day in Vietnam. It's not a Christian Country, is it?  

Up and out for a walk at 7am.  Walked along the back streets where all the markets are - Wow, so busy everywhere but calm at the same time.  Saw a group of school children waiting for the school gates to open - on Christmas Day!  Despite there appearing to be no road rules, there are some traffic lights (very occasionally) on some intersections, and we did see a policeman booking a motorcyclist and attempting to stop another.  The second motorcyclist just sped off, receiving a whack from the policeman's baton as he went.  A bit of entertainment!

Back to the Galaxy for breakfast and then on to Green Bamboo, a travel agency someone had recommended to us.  Spent about 1.1 million dong booking trips to Halong Bay and Sapa.  We then walked to Hoan Kiem Lake (the Lake of the Restored Sword) for lunch, becoming millionaires once again, withdrawing 2 million dong from the ANZ ATM.  Should keep us going for a few days.

We checked out the Opera House before crossing the Red Bridge to the temple in the middle of the lake.  

Next stop, the Thang Long Water Puppets and definitely worth seeing even if we did have to pay an extra 15,000VND to use a camera and 60,000VND to use video (only about $6).  It wasn't what we were expecting.  It was in a theatre with a big square of water as the stage.  The puppeteers were behind bamboo screens in waist-deep water, working the puppets on long poles that were just under the water.

Coffees and cocktails (pina colada - $5) at the Highlander on a 3rd floor balcony overlooking a busy intersection and the lake.

On to the Dinh Lang Thuy Ta Restaurant (Ancient Village's Communal House) for our Christmas dinner.  A nice spot, overlooking Hoan Kiem Lake.  The waiters wore varying traditional (colourful) uniforms and the musicians were beautifully dressed with not a hair out of place.

Dinner - the menu had lots of different banquets priced from $10US to $16US.  The waiters suggested #1 and as it looked good we went with that - banana flower salad, cucumber salad (we hoped that that even the letuce would be safe to eat here), fish (this was a whole fish, river fish, hand fed, but didn't have the spine in but still plenty of bones) spread out with a net of carrot over the top.  Not sure how they managed the net of carrot, but it was impressive.

Watched a man preparing the egg noodles on the way back to the Galaxy.  A machine that he kept adjusting to roll the pasta thinner and thinner - fascinating.  Another man was trying to get his little girl to give us the balloon she was playing with.  Jennie handed her a tiny toy koala and she burst into tears.

Tuesday 26 December 2006 - Hanoi (Boxing Day)

 Breakfast first today.  Jill tried rice soup - there were shallots and dried onion to sprinkle on top.  She doesn't think it's a regular - kept thinking it would be nicer with yoghurt and honey.  Lots of eggs and fruit (fresh watermelon, paw paw, dragon fruit & banana), yoghurt (in a little tub as in Australia, but sweeter).  Also fried rice, bacon, sausages, corn, cheese and cold meats, croissants, and bread) - the latter being the French influence from the days of being part of French Indochina (from the late 19th century until 1954).

After breakfast, we set off to the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum.  This was a good walk (2 kilometres +) from the Galaxy Hotel, and it was interesting to see some new streets that we hadn't seen before and were not part of the old quarter.

The Mausoleum was certainly an experience.  If you have a problem with authority or don't like queues, then Do Not Go.  To get there was a palava in itself.  There was a huge open area, part paved and then a 'field'  criss-crossed with paved 'walkways', except that we weren't allowed to walk across this area and had to walk around.  There were guards everywhere to show people the proper way to go.  Eventually, we joined the queue to leave our backpacks and cameras in a "baggage" building.  After that, we were sent through another building where we passed through a security apparatus like you get at an airport.  Alex forgot that he still had his mobile phone in his pocket.  When this was picked up, he had to take it to another building for safekeeping.  All this time, there were tour groups, bus loads, van loads, thousands of people lined up and inching (really, it was flowing pretty well) towards Ho's huge grey cement mausoleum.  At first, we were able to queue all higgledy-piggledy, then 2 by 2, and finally, when we got into the mausoleum, single file, as we passed guards every 5 paces or so, telling us all to remain quiet.  We passed by the glass sarcophagus over what looked like a 4 poster bed where Ho lay with lights shining on his face and hands resting on the covers.  Apparently, the mausoleum is closed for three months every year while the embalmed corpse goes to Russia for maintenance.  At least that's what the Lonely Planet says.  Some sceptics say that Madame Tussaud's waxworks has the contract these days.

Despite the crowds, it was all pretty impressive - the respect the Vietnamese have for Ho, who is honoured for his role as the liberator of the Vietnamese people from Colonialism as much as for his communist ideology (says Lonely Planet).  We collected our bags, etc., saw the Changing of the Guard (also very impressive), and checked out Ho's Stilt house, where he lived on and off from 1958 to 1969.  It seems that the Presidential Palace was too ostentatious for Ho, so he built the stilt house in the style of Vietnam's ethnic minorities.

After the mausoleum, we headed to KOTO Restaurant (KOTO being Know One, Teach One, an enterprise set up to train ex-street kids in the restaurant trade) for lunch.  Jill and Richard had Bun Bo Nam Bo (wok-fried beef with noodles, herbs and nuts) and both pronounced it excellent.  Jennie had a wrap and Alex had fish (and chips).  The order was for grilled fish, but that was obviously too much English!  The kids serving looked very young and were both polite and formal.  It was a great experience for all of us and for them a wonderful way to learn/practise their English.

Next stop was the Temple of Literature, which was initially dedicated to Confucius and built in 1070.  Confucianism served as the foundation of education during ancient feudal dynasties. Later, the temple became an exclusive learning centre for the king's sons and aristocrats. Over time, the Temple of Literature evolved into Vietnam's first university, attracting talented scholars from across the country.  It contained these amazing stone stelae - great slabs of stone standing on the backs of turtles which recorded the details of men receiving doctorates from 1442. There were 82 of these still remaining.  There were also statues of Confucius and others, and some phoenixes standing on turtles.

The walk back to our hotel passed some interesting streets, including a Vietnamese version of Bunnings - a whole street of tools of every description and another, a funeral directors' street with very ornate coffins and huge wreaths.  It's interesting how in Hanoi's Old Quarter, streets are dedicated to single trades, known as the "36 streets" or "Hàng" streets. These specialised craft guilds originated over 1,000 years ago, with each street serving the nearby royal citadel. Traders from specific villages brought their niche expertise to the capital, grouping together for commerce, taxation, and protection.

Back to the hotel for a few hours' rest before braving the streets again.  Did some washing, which is now hanging in our room on our very useful clothesline with suction caps, which we brought with us.  Our quick-dry travel clothes dry easily overnight, but socks take a little longer.

Headed off looking for the Cyclo Restaurant (the seats are cyclo seats, complete with a canopy).  Jill had fish with galangal steamed in banana leaves; Richard had Peking Duck, Jennie and Alex, Seafood Fried Rice.  Love the food here.

After dinner, some more walking to the Binh Minh Jazz Club.  Had cocktails (Maitie & Jazz Club0, a beer and Richard persevered with a coffee (not so good).  The Jazz was better!  Bought a couple of T-shirts before heading to bed.

Wednesday, 27 December 2006 - Halong Bay

Off to Halong Bay today, so we're up and packed, ready for breakfast at ten to seven.  Green Bamboo tour company is going to pick us up here at the Galaxy at 8am.  Trung (pronounced something like Choom), our guide, arrived around 10 to 8, we packed our gear into the Mercedes Sprinter bus and were on our way.  It wasn't too long before we were into the country areas and heading in a North East direction.  Lots of corn to start with, then some bananas and then lots of rice fields.  No rice in the fields at this time of year, although plenty of nursery plots for seedlings.  We did see one lady planting out a field.  

The road rules here are similar to those in India or Nepal in that no one takes a lot of notice of them, although they do keep roughly to the right.  The speed limit is 80 kilometres per hour and is enforced.  We passed a checkpoint with a policeman with a radar gun set up on a tripod.  Lots of interesting Farm Equipment - rotary hoe engines pulling trailers, etc.  We saw some rotary hoes in the field, but most work was being carried out by hand.  One town we went through was next to a coal mine, and everything was black - absolutely everything.  As the trucks transported the coal through the town, coal dust obviously spreads everywhere.  Can't imagine what the health of people would be like.  We also passed a huge joint venture coal power station.

At morning tea, we stopped at a handicraft centre operated for disabled people (the result of the Agent Orange disaster). It was great to see something done for these people, considering there is no welfare system in Vietnam.  In addition to patchwork and embroidery, there was also lacquerware and jewellery.  We purchased a wall hanging.

Back in the bus and on towards Halong Bay, where we boarded our Junk, a very "First Class" Junk, I might add. Out on the Bay, we were passing 1969 (according to the Rough Guide) or 3,000 (according to Lonely Planet) limestone outcrop Islands.  

The blurb "Ha Long Bay is a UNESCO World Heritage site in northern Vietnam, famous for its emerald-green waters and thousands of towering limestone karsts topped with rainforests. Located in Quang Ninh province, it is a premier destination for cruising, kayaking, and exploring massive, naturally illuminated caves. "

Unfortunately for our visit, there was not a great deal of "emerald-green waters" as it was very hazy and we were a bit disappointed about the amount of pollution in the bay, the issue being just too many tourists.  And we were out of season: " The most pleasant weather occurs from March to October. Winter months can be misty, which provides an eerie, mythical atmosphere, though visibility can be lower."  Still fascinating to be here, however! 

Passed a floating fishing village, which apparently even has its own school.  

Lunch - Starters, Mantis Prawns (served with a small bowl of salt which you squeezed cumquat juice into) followed by regular prawns, then a whole fish, rice, taro balls, squid and vegetables, Chinese cabbage and chunks of orange to finish on.  We also had one glass of wine free with our meal.  Our lunch was interrupted periodically by having to go upstairs to take photos of the spectacular scenery.  Our cabin is very cute,  even has air conditioning as well as fans, not that we need those now, as it's winter at the moment.  

Visited Hang Sung Sot Cave, well caves actually.  It was huge and, as such, was not even scary for the claustrophobics among us.  

Next stop, Titop Island, with a beach and steps leading up to a lookout at the top of the island.  The view from the top was pretty spectacular.

Back on our Junk, which is a bit of a challenge in itself.  There are so many of them, and they all look similar.  Ours is one of the smaller ones with only 16 tourists aboard, along with 4 guides and about 9 staff.  Dinner was just as amazing as lunch, crab, prawns, fish, sweet sticky rice, etc., etc.

After dinner, one of the waitresses brought around pearls for sale -  black, pink and white strings for $50US.  She said they were found here in Halong Bay.   She was very determined to sell something and went straight to Jennie - she could obviously tell that she was into classy stuff and was a shopper extraordinaire.  The salesgirl kept putting them around Jennie's neck and showing them to her in the mirror.  Jennie was very strong and said no.  We made her night, Alex making the decision to purchase a string of black pearls on a chain for Jill's birthday (next week) - there will be many more occasions that Jill can wear them than an actual string of white pearls.   Just to prove that they were real, the salesgirl took out a cigarette lighter and put a flame to them.  Guess imitation ones would melt.

Thursday, 28 December 2006 - Halong Bay & Cat Ba Island

Breakfast at 7:30 after a good night's sleep in our cute little cabin.  Hopped onto a little motorboat again, and off to a tunnel under one of the rock outcrops.  Wow!  When we got in through the tunnel, we were in a circle of water completely enclosed by Islands.  We wondered how we would get out if the Tunnel fell in - guess lots of climbing would be involved.  

Back to the junk where we checked out and transferred by climbing over the rail to a smaller junk for the trip to Cat Ba Island.  Lunch on the smaller Junk was amazing too - more seafood.  I think the fish was the best we've had.  Apparently, the fish are farmed - there are cages under the floating houses, and the dogs we see on board are to frighten away pirates.  

After lunch, we pulled into the tourist jetty at Cat Ba Harbour (Beo Ben) and transferred to a bus to drive over the mountain to Cat Ba (only a few minutes away) to the Sunflower Hotel, where we are staying for a couple of nights.  We're on the 10th floor of the Sunflower, with 4 rooms on each floor.  Across the street, we can see a team of workers building extra floors onto a skyscraper.  There are 4 men on the roof - 1 taking the bucket of concrete from someone out of sight below inside the building, 2 pouring and trowling and 1 dropping the bucket back down the hole.  No OH&S regulations here but amazing to watch.

Off for a walk around town.  Watched a hydrofoil come in and unload its cargo, much of it transported on shore by motorcycles and Cat Ba cyclos (which are rather less fancy compared to those in Hanoi). Some of the loads were huge. 

Walked on up and over a hill to a beach next to a rather fancy resort.  There was a football game in play on the beach.  The female staff from the resort - cleaning staff vs kitchen staff.  The male staff were the cheer squad.  Lots of fun happening!  On the beach were beach umbrellas, and there were lockers and swim gear for hire. ($40,000VND to use one shelter with four chairs).  

We even found a coffee shop before heading back to our rooms for wine and Pringles before dinner, which was not quite up to the standard we were used to on the Junk, but still okay -  more seafood, fish, squid, bean soup, etc

Friday 29 December 2006 - Cat Ba Island

Breakfast downstairs at 7:30 (after we realised even though we had asked and been told that the breakfast was in our rooms, it wasn't really - I guess "in our rooms" and "in this room" would sound pretty much the same when you don't speak the language fluently.  After breakfast, we were on a bus, just the four of us and our guide, Trang, to Ngu Lam Peak in Cat Ba National Park for a 2-kilometre walk up the mountain (225 meters above sea level and the highest point on the island).  The Park is one of the largest protected areas in North Vietnam (established in 1986) and the peak is famous for its 360-degree panoramic views over the island and Hạlong Bay. It was very steep and had lots of steps.  Coming down was quite difficult for the knees.  A nice little adventure, but not much of a view for us today - too much haze.  

Back to the bus and off to the Military Hospital Cave, about 13 kilometres south of Cat Ba town (and not far from where we are at the moment).  Historically called Hung Son Cave, this site was transformed into a military hospital during the period of intense conflict in the Vietnam War (or as they call it, the American War) from 1963 to 1965. Its natural layout, surrounded by dense forest and rock formations, provided an ideal location to treat wounded soldiers safely, away from enemy attacks. On arrival, the bus driver yelled out for the veteran guide to come and show us through.  He was in his uniform from the American war and lined us up to speak to us like soldiers.  As he welcomed us he said he was pleased to show us through the cave, as he now wants the Vietnamese to make friends with all people of the world.

The caves were an incredible collection of tunnels and rooms.  On the first floor this including a kitchen (with pipes to take the smoke to the surface - fans to disperse the smoke so that it wouldn't be seen by the enemy);  washroom; surgery; accommodation for surgeons and nursing staff and an officers gym area,  Above this floor was the main cave where the soldiers would "hang out"  They could even watch the cinema or go for a swim in the swimming pool.  Quite an amazing spot, and a remarkable example of wartime ingenuity and the resilience of the North Vietnamese people.

Back for lunch at the Sunflower One Hotel, where there was a wedding reception happening.  The bride was wearing a beautiful pink dress.  Trang said she probably would have changed into a traditional white dress for some of the ceremony.

Another walk around Cat Ba in search of a good coffee - hopefully with fresh milk.  No such luck as all we managed was sweetened condensed milk.  Jill was sensible and had Vietnamese tea (green tea), which she pronounced good. 

Back to the hotel to pack our bags and meet up with Trang, who led us to the Hydrofoil to take us to Hai Phong, then a small bus back to Hanoi to our new hotel - the Giaboa (Zarbo).  The hotel is near the lake and quite close to the water puppets.  Discovered a very exciting shoe street with $15 shoes that Jennie and Jill put on the itinerary for a visit on our return from Sapa.

Did our washing, wringing it out in towels.  Sorted out what we needed to take to Bac Ha and Sapa for the next three days and what we can leave behind at the Hotel.  Drank snapps and nibbled green bean cakes (we had picked up on a toilet stop on the way back from Cat Ba). 

Had dinner at the Highlander,  a very western style establishment - BLTs, club sandwiches, and real coffee, as well as a delicious mango, papaya, orange smoothie (for Jill)

Saturday, 30 December 2006 - to Bac Ha

Up nice and early to get packed and have breakfast before heading off to Bac Ha. But there's a problem - the washing isn't dry. Fortunately, there's plenty of room in the back of the bus to spread it out - a Ford Transit van, just the four of us again with our guide Anh (Ang) and driver (Mr Long). Booked this trip through Green Bamboo too, but unfortunately, Trung wasn't available to go with us again as he was taking a group of Australian students on a tour somewhere. 

Set off around 7:30 and arrived in Bac Ha a bit after 5:00 p.m. An interesting trip

• Walking chickens - free range wandering around eating popcorn, rice, etc., that can be on your plate in five minutes at your eating place of choice.
• Lots of corn growing and lots of bright orange cobs drying outside houses. 
• Many rugs (looked like floor rugs) on the roadside.  Discovered later that they were quilts made from polar fleece.
• Chickens on the back of bikes in woven cages being sprayed - for bird flu Anh said. 
• We didn't have to order "walking chicken" for lunch.  There were plenty of other dishes - a choice of about six dishes plus rice.
• Had a yummy ice cream (in a sealed tub) at one of our stops. Din Duong brand - vanilla with chocolate and sultanas.  10,000 VND for the three.
• Lots of buffaloes working in the rice paddies or walking along or tethered by the road. 
• Passed several weddings. Saturday is a lucky day for weddings, but they can be any day other than the 3rd, 5th or 7th, which are bad luck days. 
• The last 20 or so kilometres were pretty hairy - very steep, and the road was quite narrow at times.  It still didn't stop us from passing/overtaking other vehicles going around bends. Our lives were in Mr Long's hands.

Before settling in for the night, we went for a quick walk down the main street.  Jill purchased a pashmina scarf - $3 US.

We don't think tonight's hotel would get many stars.  The bathroom sink just runs onto the floor and down the floor drain. The lights went out while we were having our "room party" - schnapps, peanuts and fruit crisps.  The crisps are actually quite nice - dried banana, dragon fruit and jackfruit. Fortunately, Ang was "on the ball" with the "lights out", providing us with candles.

Interesting that at 6pm there was an announcement over loudspeakers in the street.  Of course, it was not in English, so no idea what that was about.

Sunday, 31st December 2006 - Bac Ha and Sapa

 Bac Ha Markets this morning, after breakfast in the tourist cafe on the main street.  The head lady of the cafe was kept busy shooing the Flower Hmong away from the front of the restaurant, where they were trying to sell bags and hats to the tourists.  Richard and Jill both bought intricately embroidered hats.  The market had lots of Flower Hmong people with their colourfully embroidered outfits (at least the women and girls).  We bought some bags, wall hangings and more pashminas.  It was great having Anh to help us bargain, and great to go there early as they are more willing to haggle to get the first sale of the day - apparently it's lucky.

The Flower Hmong (or H'mong Hoa) are a vibrant subgroup of the Hmong ethnic minority primarily living in the mountainous regions in this part of northern Vietnam. They are renowned for their incredibly bright, intricate, and multicoloured traditional clothing.  Their name is derived from their stunning, highly colourful garments rather than what they call themselves. While other Hmong subgroups (like the Black Hmong, which we saw later in the day) wear primarily monochromatic tones, Flower Hmong women dress in brilliant indigo-dyed clothing featuring multi-colored geometric and floral embroidery.  Just amazing colours.

Apparently, the Hmong ethnic group have their roots in southern China and migrated south in the 18th Century.  They are now one of the largest ethnic minorities in Vietnam, with over a million people. 

After the market and lunch (at 10:30!) back at the tourist cafe, we checked out and boarded our little bus to drive to Sapa and then on to the guest house where we were to stay for the night.

Along the way, we stopped near a border crossing into China.  We had to take a photo didn't we?

The Chinese Border - China in the background across the bridge

And at one stage, we were held up by workmen clearing a landslide off the road.

Once we were out of the bus, we had a bit of a trek to our accommodation, initially through Lau Chai village (a Black Hmong village) where women tried to sell us indigo dyed bags and cushion covers.  Then, two little girls, "You buy from me", convinced Jennie and Jill to buy tiny little pincushion things with bells on for 10,000 VND (about 50c).  After that, a whole bunch of girls turned up and followed us for what seemed like an hour, trying to sell us little musical instruments.  They all spoke a little English (which they had learnt from accosting tourists).  They were very persistent, but most of us didn't have small change, nor did we want to favour one over the other.  There were 7 of them, "but you buy from me now when they are not looking".

The music teacher among us, Richard, eventually gave in and bought a musical instrument from one of them, and she went off home, taking three others with her.  "Now you can buy, not so many girls". Eventually, we bought a few more bits and pieces when the girls promised to share the money.  They were extremely keen - "We will only sing for you if you buy from us".  Then they sang "Kookaburra" and "Heads and Shoulders".  Apparently, a student from Australia had taught them.

Eventually, we arrived at our homestay in the Ta Van Village (a Giay community - pronounced Zay). The Giay are also from Southern China (200-300 years ago) and are known for their large, tightly knit villages, their stilt houses, and terraced rice fields.

We were staying the night in a purpose-built guest house with rooms for 8-10 tourists on mattresses on a mezzanine level, each with a mosquito net.  The mozzie net was not needed at this time of year (too cold for mosquitoes), but it made it cosy and quite private.  The mattresses were pretty thin, but as there were spares we put two together.

Dinner was just amazing - such an array of food.  But first, it was apple/rice wine. "1,2,3, YO" and down goes the first glass (a shot glass).  After that, you are allowed to sip.

Also staying the night were two young women from Singapore and a man from Osaka, Japan.  There was also Mr Dow (who was cooking for us), a guide of one of the other guests (a trainee teacher from Hanoi) and the family who ran the guesthouse, Mr and Mrs Sun (Mr Sun went off to a wedding and arrived home about 10pm) and their children, a girl about 13 and a boy about 10.  This establishment had been built in 2005 and had a western-style toilet and a bathroom in a newly built concrete-rendered building.

It was all an amazing experience - the walk in through the terraced hillsides where every bit of land is used, the water running down the hillsides, via a water-powered rice pounding machine.

Water-powered, rice pounding machine

Water directed through bamboo pipes, ducks dabbling in rice paddies, horses, oxen, chooks, indigo dying (the women doing it having blue hands), 12 people sitting in a circle around a tin dish with coke burning to warm us while we sipped green tea/apple wine.

Listening to Vietnamese people chatting away to each other without having a clue about what's going on is an experience.  We had a bit of an event later in the night.  A guy turned up (a guide of a family staying elsewhere, we think) and, as far as we could gather, was accusing Anh of hitting on his girlfriend.  We heard later that he had asked Ahn and Mr Dow to go outside to fight and to stay out there and sleep in the garden.  No idea if that actually happened.  Life is never dull.

Our guest house even had a TV, and coming on midnight (New Year's Eve), there was an attempt to get it working so that we could watch the Sydney fireworks.  Getting a reliable reception was quite a challenge, but we did get to see a little of the fireworks.  As I said, life is never dull.

Monday, 1 January 2007 - Ta Van & Sapa

Breakfast outside the homestay - pancakes with banana, lime juice and sugar, and Vietnamese tea. Quite a few other people around this morning, and in the daylight, you notice just how close the other houses are, reflecting on the communal living of the Giay community.  After breakfast, we were off down the track through the rice paddies to the river. Oh no! From a distance, the bridge looked very scary, but as we got closer, there was another bridge beside it, much wider and sturdier (for motorbikes), and there was Mr Long, the bus driver, waiting for us on the other side. 

Back to Sapa, we booked into the Golden Sea Hotel - well, actually, we ended up going next door at the Golden Sea II Hotel. This is a huge improvement on Bac Ha.  The bed even has an electric blanket. Just as well, it's very cold here with Sapa, at the moment, covered in cloud. We did see the sun this morning, briefly, as we left the homestay at Ta Van, but by the time we got to Sapa, it had gone. Sapa is about 1500 metres above sea level. The main ethnic group here are the Black Hmong, and they approach us as soon as we leave the hotel, wanting to sell us blankets. Not liking the cold, Jill actually bought one (140,000 VND). It doesn't seem to make much difference if you buy something, though they still want to sell you another!  And "không mua" (Not buy) doesn't seem to have much effect.  There are also some people of the Red Hmong group, and one lady was very keen to have her photo with Richard after he had purchased something from him. 

After lunch at the Mimosa, a fairly good tourist restaurant, we had a bit of a rest at the hotel before we went for a walk up Dragon Mountain - more steps.  This area was like a botanical garden and lookout with lots of souvenir stores all the way up. You could even buy some snake wine if you so desired.  We didn't.  At the top was a stilt house, and upstairs was a dance performance focusing on the different dances of the ethnic minorities. This was very entertaining, and it ended with the audience being invited to join in the dance.  Quite challenging, actually, as one had to dance through tapping bamboo poles.  Downstairs, Jill purchased a wind-up toy ferris wheel for 25,000 VND - about $2.50. 

Back down the mountain, and Sapa is now completely covered in cloud - hard to see across the street.  We found "Baguette & Chocolat " (a cafe/mini hotel) mentioned in the "Rough Guide" for coffee and hot chocolate.  And wow! The hot chocolate was to die for - just liquid chocolate. Jill even needed help to finish it. And we shared French chocolate delicacies. 

Back on the street, Alex and Richard bought long, quick-dry pants at the market.  Not overly cheap - 200,000 VND (about $20). 

Dinner at the Mimosa - the beef curry was delicious, the potato soup was good too, as were the other six dishes. 

Schnapps in our room, in tea cups.  This hotel is very fancy - even has an electric jug, coffee, and tea.