Breakfast downstairs at 7:30 (after we realised even though we had asked and been told that the breakfast was in our rooms, it wasn't really - I guess "in our rooms" and "in this room" would sound pretty much the same when you don't speak the language fluently. After breakfast, we were on a bus, just the four of us and our guide, Trang, to Ngu Lam Peak in Cat Ba National Park for a 2-kilometre walk up the mountain (225 meters above sea level and the highest point on the island). The Park is one of the largest protected areas in North Vietnam (established in 1986) and the peak is famous for its 360-degree panoramic views over the island and Hạlong Bay. It was very steep and had lots of steps. Coming down was quite difficult for the knees. A nice little adventure, but not much of a view for us today - too much haze.
The caves were an incredible collection of tunnels and rooms. On the first floor this including a kitchen (with pipes to take the smoke to the surface - fans to disperse the smoke so that it wouldn't be seen by the enemy); washroom; surgery; accommodation for surgeons and nursing staff and an officers gym area, Above this floor was the main cave where the soldiers would "hang out" They could even watch the cinema or go for a swim in the swimming pool. Quite an amazing spot, and a remarkable example of wartime ingenuity and the resilience of the North Vietnamese people.
Back for lunch at the Sunflower One Hotel, where there was a wedding reception happening. The bride was wearing a beautiful pink dress. Trang said she probably would have changed into a traditional white dress for some of the ceremony.
Another walk around Cat Ba in search of a good coffee - hopefully with fresh milk. No such luck as all we managed was sweetened condensed milk. Jill was sensible and had Vietnamese tea (green tea), which she pronounced good.
Back to the hotel to pack our bags and meet up with Trang, who led us to the Hydrofoil to take us to Hai Phong, then a small bus back to Hanoi to our new hotel - the Giaboa (Zarbo). The hotel is near the lake and quite close to the water puppets. Discovered a very exciting shoe street with $15 shoes that Jennie and Jill put on the itinerary for a visit on our return from Sapa.
Did our washing, wringing it out in towels. Sorted out what we needed to take to Bac Ha and Sapa for the next three days and what we can leave behind at the Hotel. Drank snapps and nibbled green bean cakes (we had picked up on a toilet stop on the way back from Cat Ba).
Had dinner at the Highlander, a very western style establishment - BLTs, club sandwiches, and real coffee, as well as a delicious mango, papaya, orange smoothie (for Jill)
