Sunday, 31st December 2006 - Bac Ha and Sapa

 Bac Ha Markets this morning, after breakfast in the tourist cafe on the main street.  The head lady of the cafe was kept busy shooing the Flower Hmong away from the front of the restaurant, where they were trying to sell bags and hats to the tourists.  Richard and Jill both bought intricately embroidered hats.  The market had lots of Flower Hmong people with their colourfully embroidered outfits (at least the women and girls).  We bought some bags, wall hangings and more pashminas.  It was great having Anh to help us bargain, and great to go there early as they are more willing to haggle to get the first sale of the day - apparently it's lucky.

The Flower Hmong (or H'mong Hoa) are a vibrant subgroup of the Hmong ethnic minority primarily living in the mountainous regions in this part of northern Vietnam. They are renowned for their incredibly bright, intricate, and multicoloured traditional clothing.  Their name is derived from their stunning, highly colourful garments rather than what they call themselves. While other Hmong subgroups (like the Black Hmong, which we saw later in the day) wear primarily monochromatic tones, Flower Hmong women dress in brilliant indigo-dyed clothing featuring multi-colored geometric and floral embroidery.  Just amazing colours.

Apparently, the Hmong ethnic group have their roots in southern China and migrated south in the 18th Century.  They are now one of the largest ethnic minorities in Vietnam, with over a million people. 

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