Breakfast first today. Jill tried rice soup - there were shallots and dried onion to sprinkle on top. She doesn't think it's a regular - kept thinking it would be nicer with yoghurt and honey. Lots of eggs and fruit (fresh watermelon, paw paw, dragon fruit & banana), yoghurt (in a little tub as in Australia, but sweeter). Also fried rice, bacon, sausages, corn, cheese and cold meats, croissants, and bread) - the latter being the French influence from the days of being part of French Indochina (from the late 19th century until 1954).
After breakfast, we set off to the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum. This was a good walk (2 kilometres +) from the Galaxy Hotel, and it was interesting to see some new streets that we hadn't seen before and were not part of the old quarter.
The Mausoleum was certainly an experience. If you have a problem with authority or don't like queues, then Do Not Go. To get there was a palava in itself. There was a huge open area, part paved and then a 'field' criss-crossed with paved 'walkways', except that we weren't allowed to walk across this area and had to walk around. There were guards everywhere to show people the proper way to go. Eventually, we joined the queue to leave our backpacks and cameras in a "baggage" building. After that, we were sent through another building where we passed through a security apparatus like you get at an airport. Alex forgot that he still had his mobile phone in his pocket. When this was picked up, he had to take it to another building for safekeeping. All this time, there were tour groups, bus loads, van loads, thousands of people lined up and inching (really, it was flowing pretty well) towards Ho's huge grey cement mausoleum. At first, we were able to queue all higgledy-piggledy, then 2 by 2, and finally, when we got into the mausoleum, single file, as we passed guards every 5 paces or so, telling us all to remain quiet. We passed by the glass sarcophagus over what looked like a 4 poster bed where Ho lay with lights shining on his face and hands resting on the covers. Apparently, the mausoleum is closed for three months every year while the embalmed corpse goes to Russia for maintenance. At least that's what the Lonely Planet says. Some sceptics say that Madame Tussaud's waxworks has the contract these days.
Despite the crowds, it was all pretty impressive - the respect the Vietnamese have for Ho, who is honoured for his role as the liberator of the Vietnamese people from Colonialism as much as for his communist ideology (says Lonely Planet). We collected our bags, etc., saw the Changing of the Guard (also very impressive), and checked out Ho's Stilt house, where he lived on and off from 1958 to 1969. It seems that the Presidential Palace was too ostentatious for Ho, so he built the stilt house in the style of Vietnam's ethnic minorities.
After the mausoleum, we headed to KOTO Restaurant (KOTO being Know One, Teach One, an enterprise set up to train ex-street kids in the restaurant trade) for lunch. Jill and Richard had Bun Bo Nam Bo (wok-fried beef with noodles, herbs and nuts) and both pronounced it excellent. Jennie had a wrap and Alex had fish (and chips). The order was for grilled fish, but that was obviously too much English! The kids serving looked very young and were both polite and formal. It was a great experience for all of us and for them a wonderful way to learn/practise their English.
Next stop was the Temple of Literature, which was initially dedicated to Confucius and built in 1070. Confucianism served as the foundation of education during ancient feudal dynasties. Later, the temple became an exclusive learning centre for the king's sons and aristocrats. Over time, the Temple of Literature evolved into Vietnam's first university, attracting talented scholars from across the country. It contained these amazing stone stelae - great slabs of stone standing on the backs of turtles which recorded the details of men receiving doctorates from 1442. There were 82 of these still remaining. There were also statues of Confucius and others, and some phoenixes standing on turtles.
The walk back to our hotel passed some interesting streets, including a Vietnamese version of Bunnings - a whole street of tools of every description and another, a funeral directors' street with very ornate coffins and huge wreaths. It's interesting how in Hanoi's Old Quarter, streets are dedicated to single trades, known as the "36 streets" or "Hàng" streets. These specialised craft guilds originated over 1,000 years ago, with each street serving the nearby royal citadel. Traders from specific villages brought their niche expertise to the capital, grouping together for commerce, taxation, and protection.
Back to the hotel for a few hours' rest before braving the streets again. Did some washing, which is now hanging in our room on our very useful clothesline with suction caps, which we brought with us. Our quick-dry travel clothes dry easily overnight, but socks take a little longer.
Headed off looking for the Cyclo Restaurant (the seats are cyclo seats, complete with a canopy). Jill had fish with galangal steamed in banana leaves; Richard had Peking Duck, Jennie and Alex, Seafood Fried Rice. Love the food here.
After dinner, some more walking to the Binh Minh Jazz Club. Had cocktails (Maitie & Jazz Club0, a beer and Richard persevered with a coffee (not so good). The Jazz was better! Bought a couple of T-shirts before heading to bed.
